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Le Sentier

Vallée de Joux village; home of Jaeger-LeCoultre since 1833 and Blancpain since 1992 revival.

The Definitive Modern Speedmaster - Six Years With The Calibre 321 Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 He Aug 4, 2026

The Definitive Modern Speedmaster - Six Years With The Calibre 321

Recently, one of our readers asked me for an update on my ownership of the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321. He also wanted to know how often I wear it compared with the stainless-steel Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch introduced the following year (2021). They’re fair questions, and I’ll do my best to answer them today. Over […] Visit The Definitive Modern Speedmaster — Six Years With The Calibre 321 to read the full article.

Introducing - Chronoswiss Unveils the Small Second Stone Collection Monochrome
Chronoswiss Unveils Aug 3, 2026

Introducing - Chronoswiss Unveils the Small Second Stone Collection

Founded in 1983 in Munich by the late Gerd Lang, Chronoswiss acquired renown for introducing the first serially produced regulator wristwatch in 1987. Now in the hands of Oliver Ebstein, with headquarters in Lucerne, the brand has been given a 21st-century visual punch, reinterpreting classics with vivid colours and multi-layered dials. In a departure from its off-centred […]

In Depth: Breguet’s Pendule à Trois Roues SJX Watches
Breguet s Pendule à Trois Aug 3, 2026

In Depth: Breguet’s Pendule à Trois Roues

The pendule à trois roues — three-wheel pendulum [clock] — was Abraham-Louis Breguet’s radical answer to a fundamental horological question: how much could a clock be reduced without sacrificing precision? On the February 3, 1788, A-L Breguet walked into the Académie Royale des Sciences on the rue Saint-Jacques and deposited a sealed envelope. A clerk assigned it the number 267. He told no one what was inside. The practice of the pli cacheté was well established in French scientific culture. An inventor who deposited a sealed description with the Académie secured a dated record of priority without surrendering the technical details to competitors. Breguet used it rarely, and this was the only time he used it for a clock. The envelope sat in the Académie’s archives through the Revolution, the Empire, the Restoration, the July Monarchy, and two more republics. It was still there nearly a century later, on December 5, 1881, when Louis Breguet, the founder’s grandson, asked for it to be opened. Inside was a description of a clock movement built around three wheels. By that point, the pendule à trois roues had been made in fewer than a dozen examples over roughly 23 years and had passed largely out of active horological discussion. The unsealing was a formality. The clocks themselves had already made their own argument, revealing another side A-L Breguet’s genius as an inventor. The idea and its ancestry The intellectual territory Breguet was entering in 1787 ...

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review WatchRider
Zenith El Primero A384 Introduced Aug 1, 2026

Casio Edifice EFB-730: The Best Affordable Panda Chronograph? Owner Review

In my opinion, panda watches are probably the most beautiful and classic watch designs ever made, which explains why I own around ten of them. In this article, we are looking at two models from Casio that I own: the Edifice EFB-730D-7AV on a stainless steel bracelet, that has a clean silver dial with black subdials, and the Edifice EFB-730L-7AV on a brown leather strap, but with a more vintage off-white dial and orange accents. And to make this even more interesting I will compare them with my Tudor Black Bay Chrono Panda M79360N-0002. In the following sections, I will cover what I like, what I do not like, or rather what I would like to see in future versions, whether these watches feel premium, and two questions you probably have in mind: why I own both and whether I am going to sell them. Panda Design, Case Size and Comfort The panda dial is clearly the main attraction, but what makes these Casio models stand out from the many affordable panda chronographs is the shape of the case. Instead of using the familiar round design seen on watches such as the Tudor Black Bay Chrono, the EFB-730 has a tonneau shape that immediately reminded me of the legendary Zenith El Primero A384. Introduced in 1969, the A384 combined a distinctive tonneau-shaped case (often referred to as a barrel shape) with a white dial, three black chronograph counters and a date window positioned between four and five o’clock. The modern A384 Revival faithfully recreates that design with a 37 mm tonnea...

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 27, 2026

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

Introducing - The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier with Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel Dials Monochrome
Jul 24, 2026

Introducing - The Lebois & Co Heritage Atelier with Clous de Paris and Stroopwafel Dials

Lebois & Co, an old name revived by Tom van Wijlick, a Dutch native, has steadily built a collection of classically styled, vintage-character watches. Last year’s Heritage Small Seconds introduced a compact dress watch series inspired by the brand’s mid-century archives. Now, two new references are launching the Heritage Atelier collection: the Small Seconds Clous […]

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch You could Jul 23, 2026

Reference Points: The Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Wristwatch

You could make the argument that, among all brands, models, and complications, the Patek Philippe split-seconds wristwatch is one of the most overlooked, underappreciated, and least understood in any catalog. "That's because no one ever sees them," said Ben, when I made that very argument in the office recently. True. It's hard to call a watch underappreciated when the entry point for buying one is in the low six figures. But let me explain. The Patek Philippe ref. 5373. Think about this: the first chronograph wristwatch Patek ever made was a split-seconds. The first. Oh, and it was the first made by any brand. And while people are clamoring for perpetual calendar references like the 2497, 3448, and 3940, Patek has made at least 44 different perpetual calendar wristwatch models over the years (not counting different case materials, gems, or the 3971). How many serially-produced split-seconds references? Well, about 12 or 13, depending on how you count them.  It wasn't until recently that the reference 5004—the first modern serially produced perpetual calendar split-second watch from Patek—began to receive its due at auction, and it finally broke a 13-year-old record for the reference. A 1436, the first serially produced rattrapante, can still be had for less than an F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu. That, frankly, is ridiculous. They're rare birds, and it's all the more impressive that we have nine of them on the table today, all from the same owner. The Patek Philippe r...

A Watch Worthy of a Dentist Visit: the Christopher Ward Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Twelve 36 Ti Pick Jul 23, 2026

A Watch Worthy of a Dentist Visit: the Christopher Ward Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition

One thing you can’t credibly accuse Christopher Ward of is being afraid of color. Hot on the heels of their Twelve Xander, a colorful and abstract limited edition collaboration with the Dial Artist that sold out in a single day, the UK based brand is back with the Twelve 36 (Ti) Pick ‘n’ Mix Limited Edition, a series of small Twelves that draw on a nostalgic love of sugary, colorful candy, the kind that you used to be able to buy in bulk by the pound at movie theaters to escape a hot summer day (sorry, but that’s a core memory for me).  These new 36mm editions of the Twelve are available in a total of six colorways, and their defining feature is a dial texture that the brand says replicates the sugar coating on the types of candy that we’re now, years and years later, told is essentially poison and that we should stay away from. The texture looks great in these Christopher Ward supplied images, but I’ll be honest: I’m not sure I immediately think of candy when viewing them, although I’m happy to make the connection. It begs the question, though, if every similar texture we’ve seen over these last few years is actually a candy dial? Something to think about.  OK, the dial colors. The collection consists of Sour Apple (green), Kola Krystals (brown), Fizzy Orange (orange), Cherry Pop (red), Blue Sherbet (blue), and Berry Burst (purple). In terms of candy alone, I feel the strongest pull toward Sour Apple (really, anything sour is immediately at the top of ...

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took Jul 22, 2026

The Ruhla UFO: A Memento of Mod and The Cold War

The Gebhard Duve-designed Audemars Piguet Disco Volante 5093 took the horological world by storm in the mid-1950s, and there’s no denying that it remains an exemplar of well-executed watch design today. With the combination of the ongoing Space Race and Mid-century futuristic design movement came an influx of wildly shaped and uniquely proportioned wristwatches throughout the middle portion of the 20th century. One of the most popular designs was the UFO, with brands like Omega, Timex, Zenith, Gruen, and Ruhla employing this case architecture in their 1950s, 60s, and even 70s catalogs. While I’ve had the chance to own a Timex UFO model and handle an Omega Dynamic, it’s the Ruhla you see pictured above that really caught my eye. Why? Let’s dig in. Brief History of Ruhla and The UFO Model Ruhla’s watch production, initially named “Gebrüder Thiel GmbH,” began in 1892 with its “Fearless” pocket watch, becoming the first mass-produced timepiece put to market. Fast forward decades later to 1952, and the company is renamed “Uhren und Maschinenfabrik Ruhla,” or Ruhla for short, and continues production of watches and movements for both the domestic East German and international markets. Ruhla quickly found great success throughout this era, with their plant becoming one of, if not the, world’s largest watchmaking factory. By 1963, the Ruhla logo seen on my UFO example was applied to all the company’s domestic models and was used until the brand’s closu...

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm Monochrome
Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve Jul 22, 2026

Introducing - New Green and Blue Dials for the Hamilton Khaki Field Power Reserve 40mm

Hamilton, once one of the largest American watchmakers, has a long tradition of accessible, robust field watches and military-inspired timepieces, a style that’s been crucial for the brand with its Khaki Field Collection. While most of the models are modelled after the mid-20th-century Hamilton Hacked watches, some editions took the brief at face value, while some, […]

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies Worn & Wound
Tudor Jul 21, 2026

Photo Report: Tudor and Red Bull Take to the Skies

If there’s one thing I’ve learned from being in the watch industry, it’s that you never know when you’ll have the opportunity to do something unique, and that saying “yes” to something without having all of the details might result in a rare, or even once in a lifetime experience. With that in mind, let me set the stage for how I found myself 1,000 feet above Manhattan in a 1958 DC-6B, piloted by The Flying Bulls. Early this month, I received a rather vague invitation to a ”Red Bull Flying Bulls thing with Tudor” immediately after returning from our Chicago Windup Watch Fair, and that it “involves a very early morning flight on a very old plane”. While I’d usually ask a million questions and try to get every detail that I could before committing to something, in the interest of being just a touch more spontaneous, I couldn’t respond “I’m intrigued, count me in” fast enough.  As we got closer to the event, I’d come to learn that the “old plane” in question was a beautifully restored 1958 DC-6B and the “very early morning” meant arriving at the Meatpacking Tudor Boutique at 7 AM. Once everyone arrived, our small crew began heading up to White Plains FBO, which I later learned was named Million Air. Not long into the ride, we were presented with a briefcase of loaner watches, ranging from the Tudor Ranger in 36mm “Dune” and 39mm “Black”, or the Black Bay 58 GMT on either the new five link bracelet or classic rubber strap. While...

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls Monochrome
Ming two essential tasks winding Jul 17, 2026

Hands-on - Minerva The Unveiled Crownless, Rethinking One of Watchmaking’s Simplest Controls

The crown is one of those watch components we rarely think much about. It has been there for well over a century, mainly performing two essential tasks: winding the movement and setting the time. We now have all sorts of crowns, including hidden crowns and even retractable crowns, yet very few have questioned whether any […]

Cousin Greg teams up with Shinola, a rare Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU auction, MB&F; continues its MADness Time+Tide
Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU Jul 17, 2026

Cousin Greg teams up with Shinola, a rare Rolex Rainbow Daytona hits AU auction, MB&F; continues its MADness

As Centre Court packed away another fortnight of strawberries, sunshine and relentless television close-ups of celebrity watch spotting, Jannik Sinner finally lifted the Wimbledon gentlemen’s singles trophy to cap off a superb tournament. Elsewhere, it wasn’t quite such a triumphant week for English football fans, whose World Cup dreams came to an abrupt halt this … Continued

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker Worn & Wound
Nodus Jul 16, 2026

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker

Nodus and Raven have collaborated once again for their fourth edition of their popular TrailTrekker watch, a sporty GMT with EDC design codes. This new release is perhaps the most EDC oriented yet, with the prominent use of forged carbon fiber front and center on the dial and bezel, as well as lots of decorative lume. It also represents the first time a TrailTrekker has crossed the thousand dollar mark, but this one feels like it’s a step up in terms of its ambition, and seeing all four on the Nodus website side by side, it’s clear the two brands are building out a product line that can be taken in a number of different directions going forward.  The new TrailTrekker Carbon maintains certain core design elements that Nodus and Raven have always adhered to with these watches. The basic principle is relatively simple: it combines the Nodus Contrail’s sporty case profile with Raven’s dial design (most notably in their Trekker series) that prioritizes legibility and functionality above all else. Each TrailTrekker, including the new Carbon version, also makes use of the Miyota 9075 GMT movement, an easy to operate “true” GMT that is a genuinely great option for travel.  A huge part of the appeal of the original TrailTrekker was its unique bead blasted “Clay” colored case finishing. This new edition appears to have a similar vibe, with a gray DLC treatment over the steel case and bracelet that is just a shade or two lighter than solid black. Nodus and Raven hav...

Introducing: The Swatch Mission To The Moon 1969 Moonswatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet launch it makes Jul 16, 2026

Introducing: The Swatch Mission To The Moon 1969 Moonswatch

What We Know It's kind of funny saying this, but it's been a bit of time since we've seen a new Moonswatch. Given the news cycle around this year's Swatch x Audemars Piguet launch, it makes a lot of sense that Swatch has held more Moonswatch releases in its back pocket, ready for when the time is right to get people talking again about its most popular high/low collab. Today's new Mission To The Moon 1969 Moonswatch is the most limited of the Moonswatches, with only 1,969 pieces made in total. It's certainly a special execution, with an homage to Apollo 11's Moon landing in—you guessed it—1969. But unlike an actual Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, where the story is a huge part of the appeal to the collector, I have a feeling that this Moonswatch's appeal lies in its use of Omega's 18K Moonshine Gold. It's certainly not the first time Swatch has used Omega's gold alloy in Moonswatches, but this one has a lot of that gold. With the dial, hands, pushers, and crown all in Moonshine Gold, there are eleven grams total in each of these watches. Interestingly, Swatch is saying that the gold used for this edition is melted down from spare Omega parts from that era, which then ties the connection with Omega much closer together. This edition pairs a matte black Bioceramic case with all those bits of gold and black accents to complete the look. The Moonshine Gold dial is given a vertically brushed finish. No lume to be found on these hands, as the gold beveled applied indices are fi...

The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium Fratello
Straum Jul 14, 2026

The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium

The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium adds a new dial treatment to the brand’s Jan Mayen platform. Its white perimeter gradually gives way to bright silver at the center, creating what Straum calls a reverse fumé. The result is a dial that appears to be caught right as it freezes from the outside in. This is […] Visit The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium to read the full article.

Yema Pays Tribute To The French Navy’s Submarine Forces With The Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition Fratello
Ming Jul 14, 2026

Yema Pays Tribute To The French Navy’s Submarine Forces With The Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition

Today, the 14th of July, is France’s National Day. Every year, the country celebrates the anniversary of the Storming of the Bastille on July 14th, 1789, which was a major event of the French Revolution. Additionally, it commemorates the Fête de la Fédération, which celebrated the unity of the French people on July 14th, 1790. […] Visit Yema Pays Tribute To The French Navy’s Submarine Forces With The Navygraf Barracuda CMM.20 Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing: The Maurice De Mauriac Rallymaster 'Swiss Tennis' Hodinkee
Rolex testimonee extraordinaire Roger Federer Jul 13, 2026

Introducing: The Maurice De Mauriac Rallymaster 'Swiss Tennis'

What We Know Swiss sport isn't limited to just skiing, soccer, and ice hockey. The Alpine nation is a tennis force. Besides the GOAT himself and Rolex testimonee extraordinaire Roger Federer, Switzerland has produced Grand Slam champs Martina Hingis and Stan Wawrinka; the Swiss team won the Davis Cup in 2014, while current WTA player Belinda Bencic took home singles gold at the Tokyo Olympics.  The global center for fine watchmaking is also a hub for tennis greatness. And with that in mind, Zurich's Maurice de Mauriac is serving up the latest iteration of its tennis-themed Rallymaster series, the Rallymaster Swiss Tennis. A limited edition of 130 pieces in tribute to the 130th anniversary of Swiss Tennis is launching today at the Swiss Open in Gstaad. This isn't the first Rallymaster, that's for sure. Designed by California creative and keen-eyed collector Carlton DeWoody (with whom I once drove to Geneva from La Chaux-de-Fonds - but that's a story for another time), the sporty and practical Rallymaster has been produced in a slew of editions, taking inspiration from the Grand Slams, as well as modern tennis style and culture. With a brushed stainless steel case measuring 39 millimeters in diameter and 12mm thick, and 100 meters of water resistance, the Rallymaster is designed to take you just about anywhere, from the tennis court to the beach and beyond. As Tim Vaux recently revealed, Russell Crowe is a fan of lawn tennis, and a Wimbledon-themed Rallymaster III sits pro...

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District Monochrome
Speake-Marin Jul 13, 2026

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District

Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs Monochrome
Jul 11, 2026

The ABCs of Time - Everything about Watch Lugs, from Early Wire Lugs to the Most Expressive Designs

Wristwatches were a 20th century cultural trend that rendered the centuries-old pocket watch obsolete. From a functional standpoint, both watch types are the same, but changes were still needed for daily practicality on the wrist. For starters, watch cases had to shrink – pocket watches averaged 50mm in diameter with a broader range of 43mm […]

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Arc Worn & Wound
Beaucroft Arc There’s genuine horological Jul 10, 2026

Hands-On: the Beaucroft Arc

There’s genuine horological history in the home of Beaucroft Watches, the independent brand founded in 2020 in Cambridge. England was once the heart of the world’s finest watchmaking, a legacy that dated back to the 16th century. Some of the most important innovations originated in these early epochs, up until Switzerland took the mantle in the mid-1800s: complex clocks meant for royalty, and instruments for gauging the stars and the sea alike. Thomas Tompion, the “Father of English Clockmaking,” pioneered the hairspring as a viable means of regulating time, clockmaker Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement in 1755, and John Harrison’s marine chronometer solved the problem of determining longitude once and for all.  Zoom forward about five centuries. Some of the most exciting, historically-minded efforts in independent watches are emerging from British watchmakers, many of whom are attempting to evoke this proud tradition. For Beaucroft, whose latest watch is the Arc, there’s no lack of influence to draw from among Cambridge’s stone archways, pointed Gothic windows, and the ancient towers that loom over King’s and Trinity Colleges.  The Arc is an evolution of Beaucroft’s last release, 2023’s Seeker, which laid the groundwork for the watchmaker’s design language. Namely, pill-shaped baton markers with unique markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 that feature round pips at the end, resembling automotive gauges. Diamond-cut hour and minute hands are shaped li...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations II SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute Jul 8, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations II

Being able to tap the collections of fabled museums like the Louvre, Vacheron Constantin recently revealed the second instalment of Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations. The collection once again comprises four watches inspired by the ancient world, spanning Assyria to the Roman Empire: Buste d’Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletrie, and Tiber de l’Iseum Campense. Each watch essentially contains a miniature replica of a statue from the Louvre that is surrounded by decoration in a variety of techniques ranging from enamelling to stone mosaic. Buste d’Akhénaton inspired by Ancient Egypt Initial thoughts VC rolls out a well-stocked Metiers d’Art collection every year, and the appeal is varied. The good ones, however, are great, usually combining multiple decorative techniques, artful aesthetic execution, and tremendous appeal. Boosting its Metiers d’Art programme, VC has inked agreements with world-class museums like the Louvre and the Met, which allow the brand to source inspiration from the vast troves of objects housed in these institutions. All of that is captured in the latest Tribute To Great Civilisations, which qualifies as amongst the best Metiers d’Art offerings from VC. Each of the watches in the quartet manages to evoke the civilisations and objects that served as inspiration. Tiber de l’Iseum Campense of the Roman Empire While striking from a distance, each watch still reveals an impressive degree of detail up close. Mos...

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [June 2026] Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain Jul 7, 2026

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Hodinkee Happy Hour [June 2026]

The third time is the charm, as we recently hosted the third edition of what's quickly becoming a regular fixture on the calendar—Hodinkee Happy Hour. Grotta, our local watering hole, was the venue this time around, and the room delivered the same energy as always. Great conversations, great company, and no shortage of great watches to look at—a few of which you'll see below. If you made it out, thank you for coming. If not, we'll be doing it again at the end of July. Follow us on Instagram to be the first to know when RSVPs open.  Blancpain Léman Perpetual Calendar Flyback Chronograph A Cartier Tank Basculante in it's natural form... ... and in motion. Alex Chou wearing his A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Katie Penner, of Watches of Switzerland, and Hodinkee Video Editor Max Rosen. A trio of Ressence. A look at a F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain (on bracelet, no less) from the front... ... and the back. Vertex M36 Desert Edition. A little two-tone love for the Zenith Chronomaster Sport... And Rolex Datejust. Rolex Submariner. Rolex Cosmograph "Alcaraz" Daytona on an Oysterflex bracelet. Vacheron Contantin 333. A Swiss "Chronographe Suisse" Chonograph... (Swiss, chronograph, Swiss, chronograph, swiss...) Omega Seamaster De Ville and a good ol' pie-pan Omega Seamaster. Panerai Luminor Marina. Right, Editor-in-Chief James Stacey is wearing his DWC Terra. Urwerk UR-120.

Introducing: The Anoma A1 Prehistoric Hodinkee
Anoma A1 Prehistoric What We Jul 6, 2026

Introducing: The Anoma A1 Prehistoric

What We Know Matteo Violet Vianello found the idea for his newest watch while standing in a room full of prehistoric tools. At the Centre Pompidou's Brancusi exhibition in Paris a couple of years back, Vianello, the man behind Anoma, saw the sculptor's collection of primitive tools and artifacts, which stopped him—and stayed with him. That visit became the starting point for the A1 Prehistoric, the latest limited run built on Anoma's signature triangular case. The case itself is hand-chiseled 316L stainless steel, a five-hour process undertaken by Steven Brunel, a French engraver whose work has been exhibited at the Louvre. Brunel works out of a workshop in Mornand-en-Forez, a village of about 500 people in the Loire region. The buckle receives the same treatment. Because the chiseling is done entirely by hand, Anoma says no two pieces will be identical. The dial carries the process further. Roughly 600 individual lines are cut by hand into a brass base in a sunburst pattern, then finished in a dark anthracite color meant to recall the look of worked stone or flint. Specs remain close to the standard A1: the case measures 39mm by 38mm, wearing closer to 37mm thanks to its lugless, triangular shape, with a 9.45mm thickness. Inside is the Swiss automatic Sellita SW100, the same movement Anoma has used across its lineup, running in a case rated to 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes on a grey-grained Italian leather strap. Anoma will build 100 examples of the A1 ...

In Depth: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 6, 2026

In Depth: Patek Philippe Star Caliber 2000

The Star Caliber 2000 occupies a peculiar position in the history of grand complications. It was never the most complicated watch in the world. At its debut it ranked fourth — behind Patek Philippe’s own Calibre 89 and Graves Supercomplication, and the Leroy 01 — and in the quarter-century since, the complexity record has moved further still, most notably to Vacheron Constantin. The complication arms race the Calibre 89 inadvertently triggered ran its full course, and the Star Caliber 2000 was never part of it. What it did instead was something harder to measure and, as it turns out, more durable. It demonstrated that the tradition’s inheritance of unsolved problems — the desynchronised equation, the imperfect melody, and the moon exiled from the sky — was not inevitable. That each problem had a solution. And that the solutions, taken together, produced a different kind of watch: not necessarily more complicated but more coherent; not a larger accumulation of independent mechanisms but an integrated instrument in which every display refers to a single source of truth. The arms race In early 1989, as Switzerland prepared to celebrate the most complicated portable timepiece ever made, the man who had just assembled it returned to his bench. Paul Buclin had spent years assembling and setting up the Calibre 89 by hand — 1,728 components driving 33 complications. Weighing most of a kilogram, the watch itself required its own carrying case. The watch was a monument...

Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin Hodinkee
Grand Seiko SBGW235 Jul 3, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin

Happy Friday again, Ballers, and congrats to whoever snagged the Omega 2998-4 on Goodwill earlier this week. I'm fighting multiple aspects of my nature—as a midwesterner and a dad—to avoid making lame jokes about the heat, but fingers crossed, the fever's breaking, and it'll return to average temperatures sometime soon for all of us. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hamilton sold for $4,300, the Speedmaster Soyuz for €18,000, and the Universal Genève Rattrapante for GBP 4,250 . The Goldpfiel Vianney Halter sold, but the auction house hasn't listed the price online and hasn't responded to my email, so we'll all have to live with the mystery. Strays I mentioned Always Sunny last week, and now this week there's this exquisite Movado Ermeto with a caseback dedication—Dennis from Mac—that feels too good not to include. I figured it'd be fun to stir the pot last week and argue the Hamilton Model 21 as the Most Important American Watch in history. For whatever it's worth, the runner-up would've been the Bulova Accutron, and the purest expression of that watch is the Spaceview, of which there's a nice (though non-running) version available here, which auction lot also includes a Spaceman watch (also not working), and the Spaceman, for what it's worth, deserves more oddball attention.  Photo courtesy of Seuyco. Here's an almost comically reserved but gorgeous Grand Seiko SBGW235, and, in the same auction, here's what sure seems to be a great example of an IWC 'Steril...