Hodinkee
Nivada Grenchen Gives Its Chronoking Mecaquartz The 'Grey Glow' Twist – Available Now Exclusively In The Hodinkee Shop
Get ready to glow your mind with more luminous details than ever and a hybrid Meca-quartz movement.
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Hodinkee
Get ready to glow your mind with more luminous details than ever and a hybrid Meca-quartz movement.
SJX Watches
When it comes to perpetual calendars – perhaps the most objectively useful complication – the MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual, or LM QP for short, sits neatly between classical architecture and iconoclastic construction. Now almost a decade old having been launched in 2015, the LM QP is a mechanical marvel coming from the mind of Stephen McDonnell. The LM QP’s beauty lies in Mr McDonnell’s rethinking of the perpetual calendar complication while integrating historical concepts. Rethinking the QP A perpetual calendar, or quantième perpétuel (hence “QP”), is a complex and layered mechanism, which makes it a challenging complication to implement in watches. Naturally, not all perpetual calendars are created equal, some being more innovative and others more classical in their construction. The first-ever serially produced perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Patek Philippe ref. 1526 that debuted in 1940; the basics of the perpetual calendar mechanism would remain largely unchanged for decades after The issue with classical calendar constructions is their vulnerability to wear and tear, shock, or careless operation by the user. Ironically, the most forward-thinking of perpetual calendar mechanisms try to solve these problems, but sometimes suffer from reliability issues rooted in the radical concepts employed. Mr McDonnell’s construction of the LM QP smartly manages to eliminate traditional weaknesses while avoiding new problems. The result is a reliable and innovati...
“Leica” looms over cameras much like Rolex does watches. It’s a name with both meaning and stigma. On one hand, it speaks to quality, provenance, tradition, and a culture of dedicated enthusiasts. Conversely, it speaks to snobbery, wealth, style over substance, and exclusivity. Being who I am, I’m always suspicious of overly adored things, especially when they are expensive, as I can’t help but keep value in mind. Over the years, I’ve avoided the red dot despite countless recommendations. They just felt like too much of a thing I didn’t want to be a part of. A brand name for people who wanted to appear to be photographers, regardless of whether or not they had any skill or even a desire to shoot. Or maybe they didn’t even care if they appeared as photographers; the camera just served as an accessory to a lifestyle. Part of a kit that said, “Yeah, I do alright,” and looked great with a vintage Sub. *Side note: I wrote this intro before Griffin Bartsch covered the new SL3, and thus, I still thought myself clever for the Rolex comparison. As I now know it’s quite banal, I feel a tinge embarrassed, and yet, it holds a true statement, so it remains. As a former art major, I’ve always felt that cameras were tools, much like my paintbrushes. They could be used to create art or to document life. They weren’t lifestyle objects; they were a medium. I only got into photography in the first place to shoot my work in grad school. And then, I had to learn more ...
Hodinkee
My life in watches started at a young age, but it took losing my grandfather to make me realize how much watches meant to me.
Teddy Baldassarre
There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...
Monochrome
Dive watches, pilot watches or luxury sports watches are some of the most popular types of watches, but when it comes to complications, the chronograph probably reigns supreme. However, even in the field of chronograph watches, there are a lot of differences to be found! With that in mind, we go beyond simple manual and […]
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite watch discoveries last year was Atelier Holgur, whose debut diver, the Frømand, I reviewed last year. When I had it in for review I found it to be quite impressive on a number of levels, but the best thing about it was its commitment to the idea behind it. It’s a perfectly capable diver, but everything about it has been designed with a particular aesthetic appeal in mind. In a watch world full of brands that are trying to sell you “tools” you will never actually need, it was weirdly refreshing to see Atelier Holgur admit that they just wanted to make something that looked nice. Beauty, of course, is in the eye of the beholder, and you might see the Frømand and immediately want to turn away, but I happened to enjoy it’s unusual take on the skin-diver format and highly legible dial execution. Now they’re back with an update to the Frømand, the new Edition Fumée Silver Tide, with a dial that provides this diver with a very different personality than the debut. The new Silver Tide follows other Edition Fumée releases in a variety of colors that have trickled out from Atelier Holgur over the last year. The Silver Tide variant, according to the brand’s founders, takes inspiration from their night diving experiences, where moonlight reflects off the water with a silvery glow and fades into the black of the ocean. The dial here is higly evocative, with a bright silvery center that gradually becomes darker until it reaches total blackness at th...
Teddy Baldassarre
In an era when the line between what is a sports watch and what is a dress watch have been blurred substantially, the presence of Roman numerals on your watch’s dial is one of the last reliable hallmarks that identify it as a timepiece meant for dressing up, not down; a watch designed with classical elegance in mind more so than robustness or even optimum legibility. Of course, Roman numerals in general are rarely encountered in most people’s modern lives, the annual naming and marketing of Super Bowls being the rare exception. Thus, watches with Roman-numeral dials are relatively rare in the horological wild as well, albeit still occupying an appealing niche embraced by many watch manufacturers as well as by an avid core of enthusiasts. Here, we’ve tracked down 18 that are on the market in 2024; as per our usual format, they’re spotlighted in ascending order of price and represent a wide range of price points. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $410, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, offers simple three-handed options and a handful of “quiet” complications, like th...
Teddy Baldassarre
When you think of Australia, watches are probably not the first images that come to your mind. Kangaroos, boomerangs, Hugh Jackman, and Nicole Kidman, maybe, but not watches. However, much like Great Britain, France,, and our own United States, Australia in the 21st Century has given rise to a creative and ambitious generation of watch aficionados-turned-entrepreneurs that are eager to establish home-grown watchmaking in the Land Down Under. While a full-fledged horological industry in Australia is still quite a way from becoming reality - unlike those aforementioned nations, it has little watchmaking history to speak of, and outsourced parts and even manufacturing are still the norm - these 10 Australia-based watch brands are making timepieces worthy of enthusiasts’ attention. Melbourne Watch Co. Founded: 2013 Headquarters: Melbourne, Australia Founder: Sujain Krishnan Notable models: Melbourne, Flinders, Portsea, Fitzroy Melbourne Watch Company started out as a crowd-funded venture in 2013, a passion project for founder, former IT consultant and self-trained watchmaker Sujain Krishnan. It attained early success with its first timepiece, the Flinders Automatic, a business-casual steel watch named for a central train hub in the founder’s home city of Melbourne and sporting a dial inspired by that station’s clock. The brand has expanded its offerings in the decade-plus since, now offering no less than seven collections, all taking their names and some aesthetic cu...
Fratello
It could have been about three or four years since I saw a Gallet Astronomic listed last time. It was on eBay, and the price reached the €10,000 limit, so I was hesitant. My dilemma didn’t last long; someone bought it before I made up my mind. When the opportunity came again, I was ready! […] Visit #TBT Moonshine Joy With The Valjoux 88-Powered Gallet Multichron Astronomic Ref. 999 to read the full article.
Monochrome
While most have the highly successful and appealing Aikon collection in mind, the brand’s vision of an accessible luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Maurice Lacroix has more items on the menu. Specifically, there’s a watch that we’ve long appreciated here at MONOCHROME, a rather unique take on the diver with a bit of […]
Happy Memorial Day Weekend! While, yes, there is a genuine day of remembrance on Monday, it’s also the weekend that unofficially marks the beginning of Summer. So, you’re probably enjoying your relaxing Sunday morning and having a cup of coffee. And what goes perfectly with coffee? A Week in Watches, of course! On episode 81, we discuss some rather Summer-y new releases from Zodiac, Vertex, and Ming, as well as the new Toledano and Chan. The latter is more of a somber Winter morning, but we’ll let that slide. If you enjoy this episode, please like and subscribe; we appreciate it! This week’s episode is brought to you by William Wood, who is celebrating the release of their new Dunkirk watch. Continuing William Wood’s inspired homages to fire fighting, the Swiss-made bronze nautical watch is in collaboration with the Massey Shaw. This London fire brigade boat rescued over 600 lives off the beaches of Dunkirk in World War II. Head to WilliamWoodWatches.com to learn more and make a purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 81: The Return of the Ming Diver appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Despite being a relatively young brand (founded in 2019), Serica already carries a consistent collection of retro-inspired sports watches – field, dive and GMT. A project of Je?ro?me Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (both behind French magazine Les Rhabilleurs), all watches are designed to be used and abused with sturdiness, precision and style in mind. Today, […]
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre is probably not the first brand that springs to mind when it comes to sports watches. Fair enough, the Reverso was initially designed for polo players, but by today’s standards, it is far closer to being a dress watch than a sports watch. To amend this situation, Jaeger-LeCoultre turned to its Memovox Polaris, an […]
Deployant
"Diamonds are Forever" as said by Ian Fleming on his fourth James Bond novel. Today, we cover watches that are bejewelled for the New Age Men who doesn't mind a little BLING!
Fratello
This week, Fratello On Air returns on its non-normal day because your co-hosts have been under the weather. We’re both on the mend, though, and happy to be on the airwaves. In this episode, we cover several topics, but our main discussion centers on the recent TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith releases. We try […] Visit Fratello On Air: Overreacting To The TAG Heuer Formula 1 × Kith And Other Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
When I hear the name Mido, the first Ocean Star watches that come to mind are the vintage-inspired models. I like the Ocean Star Tribute, the Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, and the Ocean Star GMT. They all have an undeniable charm that is hard to ignore. But the brand also makes a series of modern […] Visit Mido Introduces The Limited Carbon Edition Of Its Versatile Ocean Star 200C to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watch collaborations are most successful when the result is greater than the sum of its parts. We’d like to believe The Depancel x Worn & Wound Valjoux 92 is one such example. Borne out of a desire to add a distinctly American flair to a classic chronograph format, the new Allure Valjoux 92 is both aesthetically and mechanically significant. The unique mint green dial conjures classic American automobiles – think Mustangs and Corvettes – and even shares the cars’ metallic paint finish. We’ve also elected to further simplify the dial by removing the running seconds sub-dial, which results in a single-eye chronograph. Speaking of chronographs, the watch’s namesake movement utilizes what is known as an oscillating pinion. To this day, the oscillating pinion remains the most efficient and simple horizontal clutch for engaging the stopwatch function, making the caliber Valjoux 92 a special movement for collectors and chronograph enthusiasts. The Allure is paired with a quality leather strap with matching green stitching, rounding out an attractive and interesting collaboration that would not be possible elsewhere. This Depancel x Worn & Wound special edition is priced at $3,900 and is limited to 20 pieces worldwide. Please reach out to us directly at sales@windupwatchshop.com for inquiries and purchasing details. The watch will also be on display and available at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco from May 3rd to May 5th. For more information on the event, please visi...
Fratello
Sometimes viewed as a low point in watch design, the late ’90s and early ’00s saw some great watch designs emerge. Today, a select handful offer huge bargains in the pre-owned market and neo-vintage luxury for small sums. As long as you don’t mind the odd over-scratched or over-polished piece, the value of watches like […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage Luxury Sports Watches Under €3,000 - Including Cartier, Bvlgari, Girard-Perregaux, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair San Francisco is right around the corner and if you’re like us, you’ve only got one thing on your mind: what watches am I going to see? Whether you are planning to stop at specific brands on your tour of the new venue in Fort Mason, or your plan is to wander through the 80 different watch and EDC brands, today we’re highlighting a selection of standout projects from our Lead Sponsors. As always, Windup is free and open to the public, thanks in large part to these brands who continue to support the enthusiast community. You can see all of these brands and more at the 2024 Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 4: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 5: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public You can see every product listed here and more from each sponsor on the Windup Watch Fair Product Showcase. While you’re on the site, be sure to sign up for Windup updates to make sure you continue to get the latest info in advance of and throughout Windup Weekend. Alpina One of the key brands in the Citizen group family, Alpina brings design and engineering talents to build luxury sport watches that operate with the highest available standards in precision and reliability through sporting environments. At Windup SF 2024, Alpina will showcase their Alpiner Extreme Automatic model, relaunched in 2022 after a 2009 introduction. Now with stainless steel bracelets, the watch c...
Fratello
It was one of my first Baselworlds, perhaps in 2016 when I heard the news that Angelus was getting resurrected. The brand was going to present something mind-blowing that year. The anticipation was almost unbearable as, at that point, (vintage) Angelus had started to become one of my favorite brands. But while the U10 was […] Visit Introducing: The Angelus Instrument De Vitesse Monopusher Chronograph to read the full article.
Fratello
Watches and Wonders is a somewhat overwhelming experience. You are bombarded with new watches left and right, making it hard to separate the good from the average. But when the dust settles, some watches linger in your mind. Some have that X factor that most lack. These are those watches for me. These are the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Thomas’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s always worth celebrating when we see true design artistry and a successful attempt at bringing something wholly unique to the micro-independent watch community. Betina Menescal is the creative mind behind Möels + Co. At 24 years old she is a powerhouse of fresh ideas and is determined to design watches that are completely original. You won’t find a single component in one of her watches, aside from the Sellita movements and straps, in a catalog anywhere. The numerals, the hands, the case, the crystal are all entirely designed by Betina, and manufactured for her alone. The Designer To say that Betina comes from an artistic family would be an understatement. There are three opera singers, a children’s musician, and her father, who would turn out to be a great influence for Betina. He was briefly into architecture but quickly moved on to media production. Among his credits: he was a co-director for the movie Anaconda, and produced commercials for the likes of Coca-Cola, Asics, Adidas, and did World Cup commercials for Gillette. When Betina was nine years old, her father took her on a business trip to Buenos Aires. “My dad didn’t know how to talk to kids. So all he was doing was looking at the buildings and mentioning the architecture here, and the art there. Look at that little detail on the facade or the ceiling.” Betina began to notice that her father had an eye for these details, and how these small features fit into a whole. “It was always a big pr...
Deployant
We covered the press release with commentary by Frank Chuo on Monday, and today, we are have our hands-on session. Here are our imppressions.
Monochrome
Montblanc introduced its white star logo in 1913, an emblem which has graced the caps of its fountain pens and, later, the crowns of its watches. While the logo is universally recognised, some folk might not know that it represents a stylised bird’s eye view of the snow-capped peak of Mont Blanc and its six […]
Worn & Wound
Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. Spring has sprung, and the warmer weather is a great excuse and motivation to get outside and get moving. Of course, having the right timepiece for the right occasion is paramount. A digital watch comes easily to mind thanks to its simplicity, legibility, and functionality, and to that end, here are five digital watches we’d consider excellent fitness and running pals. All are available right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is ready to answer any questions you have. You can even arrange a consultation at your convenience. The post Five Digital Watches for Spring Running and Fitness appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
Only a few weeks have passed since Czapek introduced the Antarctique Mount Erebus Deep Blue models. Both of them presented a familiar aesthetic in precious metals. I love the Antarctique, and a yellow gold version made me fall in love with the watch all over again. For this year’s Watches and Wonders, the brand releases […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Passage De Drake Afterglow And Antarctique Green Meteor to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
While I'm admittedly more of the sporty mil-spec watch type, I know a beautiful watch when I see it. So far, today's new releases have been really strong over at the Tudor and Grand Seiko camps, and I think they've stolen the start of the show. One of these killer new releases is the Grand Seiko SBGW314, a limited edition watch that's meant to pay tribute to the early days of the brand while offering some modern touches. Of course, we get some of the design inspiration coming from nature. In this case, we're talking about a starry night sky.
Monochrome
The sunburst green dial is not a new concept for Vacheron Constantin; there are references in the Traditionelle collection featuring the same finish. With that in mind, the new sporty and chic Overseas references, while adding a new adventurous direction, are essentially the same watches we have seen released in previous years, in pink gold […]
Monochrome
One field of expertise immediately comes to mind when thinking about Piaget: the art of crafting ultra-thin watches. Throughout its history, the brand has become synonymous with legendary calibres, such as the 2mm thin 9P introduced in 1957 and the 2.3mm thin 12P micro-rotor movement unveiled in 1960. Approximately a decade ago, the groundbreaking 900P […]
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