3,334 articles · 17 videos found · page 45 of 112
Quill & Pad
Part of the appeal of watchmaking is that watchmakers often set themselves seemingly impossible goals: an ultra-thin movement, a highly complex movement, a highly skeletonized movement, a transparent movement, a movement with a power reserve that far exceeds practical requirements.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Tudor Northflag is back with a flyer GMT movement and a design that makes a stronger case for life beyond the Black Bay.
Worn & Wound
We knew some big moments would come as Tudor notches its impressive 100th anniversary as a brand this year, and this is one of them: the revival of the North Flag. The aptly named collection has come to serve as the north star for Tudor’s modern offerings and set the tone for the brand in the past decade. When the model first debuted in 2015, it marked the first Tudor watch to house an in-house movement coupled with an exhibition caseback to show it off. The COSC-certified Caliber MT5621 that powered the original was just the jumping off point for Tudor to upgrade models across its catalog with manufacture movements and chronometer certification. Now, in the newly revived North Flag line, we get even greater attention on technical capabilities with METAS certification, giving it Master Chronometer status, as well as the addition of a GMT complication.Despite the advancements we’ve seen throughout the North Flag collection and in the newest edition today, the model remains deeply rooted in Tudor’s history and makes for a fitting addition to its 100th anniversary offerings. The Ranger II from 1973 has served as the historic touchpoint for the collection since its inception. There are several key design codes that create a throughline from the Ranger II to the original North Flag and now the latest edition. These include the black dial with large Arabic numeral hour markers, the arrow-shaped 24-hour and hours hands coupled with an angular seconds hand and a baton-shaped...
SJX Watches
A decade after it first debuted, Tudor has revived the Northflag. Originally a 1970s-inspired sports watch to showcase Tudor’s first-ever in-house movement, the Northflag has been upgraded inside and out. The rebooted Northflag gains a GMT function plus refinements all round, ranging from superior detailing on the case to lume blocks on the dial. And the movement is now a Master Chronometer, while the price stays true to Tudor’s value-oriented focus at just over US$5,500. Initial thoughts The original North Flag was a bit quirky with its power reserve indicator, and also probably ahead of its time; a Tudor with an in-house movement seemed like an odd concept back then. I liked it then, but the North Flag wasn’t a commercial success, so it is surprising that Tudor has revived the model. But the new Northflag is an immediately appealing watch, reflecting Tudor’s advancements in design, manufacturing, and branding. In fact, the Northflag is one of the most interesting watches in the current Tudor catalogue, alongside the equally recent Monarch. Although practically everything Tudor makes is well priced and an easy recommendation, almost all of Tudor’s best watches are variations of the Oyster case and Black Bay diver. The Northflag, on the other hand, is something else entirely. The angular, 1970s-style case is different, as is the dial. But all the elements are harmonious, and the design works. This is one of my strongest recommendations in the Tudor line-up today,...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
TAG Heuer revisits the Monza Flyback Chronograph with a black-and-red design, forged carbon case, TH20-12 movement, and a $13,400 price.
Fratello
Ask any watch fan about the different M.A.D.Editions, and you’ll probably hear about the wacky, colorful aspects of the M.A.D.1 or the bonkers and fun modifications to the standard off-the-shelf caliber that powers the watches. For the new M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese, the brand presents a watch that almost looks deceivingly modest. But we all know […] Visit Paying Homage To “The Troublemaker Of Watchmaking” With The M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Design-forward independent watchmaker Alto has kicked off Geneva Watch Days with its second model, the Art 02. While the most obvious difference is the addition of a matching bracelet, the entire watch has been refined and updated with a smaller case and an upgraded movement. Initial thoughts A dominant trend in independent watchmaking for the past several years has been the veneration of finishing. This focus has given rise to a growing number of overtly traditional time-only watches built and finished to a high standard. Alto belongs a class of design-led independents that promotes a different approach, one focused on how shapes and textures contribute to the wearing experience. This philosophy comes into sharper focus with the brand’s sophomore effort, the Art 02. While visually similar to its predecessor — enough that they would be hard to tell apart by an untrained eye — the Art 02 has been significantly refined and upgraded in several respects. First is the case, which is slightly thicker but much smaller in length and width, and a new proprietary calibre designed specifically for the Art 02. Then there’s the matching titanium bracelet, which is brushed and faceted to create a dazzling display of light and shadow. Surprisingly, the Art 02 is significantly less expensive than its predecessor. In fact, the retail price of €13,100 is just over half that of the Art 01 in “Monochrome Grey.” Considering the new calibre, proprietary bracelet, and similar bill ...
Hodinkee
What We Know This morning, just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Parmigiani Fleurier has unveiled a new limited-edition take on its Tonda PF Skeleton. This new watch does something so many Parmigiani watches do so well, blending several existing elements to create something just a little bit new. In this instance, Parmigiani Fleurier has taken its Milano Blue skeletonized Tonda PF dial and movement—which had previously been available only in platinum—and fitted them to a rose gold Tonda PF case (and bracelet). The Tonda PF case is one of the key arguments in favor of modern Parmigiani Fleurier. At 40mm across and just 8.5mm thick, it's well-sized and thin without feeling slight. Still, for as good as the Tonda PF is, the star of the show here is the movement. The PF777 (which you can read a bit more about here) is an automatic winding caliber developed in-house by Parmigiani Fleurier. Unlike many movements that find their way into skeletonized watches, the PF777 was purpose-built and designed from first principles with skeletonization in mind. The result of this — and of Parmigiani's willingness to not take skeletonization to the absolute extreme, but rather to implement the concept with some modicum of consideration — is a movement that balances aesthetic concerns with practical ones and is all the better for it. A blend of polished, satin-finished, and sandblasted surfaces keeps the PF777 feeling contemporary, and the ground-up design means the watch avoids many of th...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Benrus DTU-2A/P brings historically accurate proportions together with modern upgrades and an ETA automatic movement.
SJX Watches
Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s latest take on its flagship perpetual calendar is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-011 with a “gradient silver” dial. Though a cosmetic update to a model that’s only been in production since 2021, the new dial is unexpectedly appealing, giving the watch a striking different feel from its predecessors. Patek Philippe’s most advanced calendar movement, the cal. 31-260 PS QL inside the ref. 5236P is a latest-generation base movement matched with a newly-developed perpetual calendar module. The movement is now in the third generation of the reference; the ref. 5236P-011 replaces the ref. 5236P-010 with a “rose gilt” dial that was only in the catalogue for two years. Initial thoughts The ref. 5236P-011 is a new face for an existing model. Though the design remains unchanged, the dial finish that darkens towards the edges gives it a more modern feel. The composite strap adds to the modern feel, though the strap might be a bit too sporty for the watch. Paradoxically, the smoked dial finish also brings to mind aged or “tropical” dials on vintage watches. The rest of the watch stays the same, but it’s a good one. The ref. 5236P is an impressive watch in both technical and physical terms – it’s the brand’s most advanced perpetual calendar and also its largest. The size and weight are reassuring, and actually bring to mind complicated models from a rival brand from Germany. But the case is made up of lots of flat surfaces and entir...
Deployant
Fears Watch Company releases the Brunswick 39 Perpetual Calendar with a movement made by the Dubois Dépraz : perpetual calendar module over a Selita base.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex expands its Expedition Pioneer lineup with a $429 steel automatic featuring sapphire crystal, 200m water resistance, and a Miyota movement.
Time+Tide
There are few periods in history that shaped Britain’s identity quite like the 1960s. It was a decade when the country seemed to lead the world in music, fashion and design. Jaguar E-Types, Triumph Bonnevilles, and Mini Coopers became rolling icons of British style, while Lambrettas and Vespas filled Carnaby Street as the Mod movement … Continued
WatchAdvice
Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...
Monochrome
The Atelier Wen Inflection collection (2025) marked an important step up for the brand, with its complex, fully curved case, an integrated bracelet made almost entirely from tantalum, high-end dials, and a customised movement supplied by Girard-Perregaux. For Geneva Watch Days 2026, Atelier Wen has partnered with New York-based creative studio Massena LAB on a […]
Deployant
Bell & Ross introduces a new BR-X5 featuring a meteorite dial, the BR-CAL.323 movement and the collection's distinctive multi-component 41 mm case.
SJX Watches
Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...
SJX Watches
At the beginning of the year, we wondered if 2026 might become the year of the jumping hours wristwatch. While that trend is still developing, a spate of new releases in the past few months has crystallised another trend that’s been taking shape for a number of years: the inverted movement. While not an altogether new format, it’s hard to miss its growing popularity. What is an inverted movement? There’s no hard-and-fast rule for what constitutes an inverted movement, since the category itself has emerged informally. That said, a simple definition takes the term at face value: a movement that’s been reversed inside the case, such that barrel(s), gear train, and escapement are fully exposed on the wrist. The dial, if there is one at all, is usually consigned to a dial flange or small, off-centre time display. Ordinarily, an inverted movement begins its product lifecycle like any other conventional calibre. The Voutilainen 28TI, for example, was adapted from the brand’s normal cal. 28, with an additional train over the centre wheel to reverse the direction of the hands. However, sometimes the inverted variant is selected as the launch platform, with a conventional sibling that follows later — sometimes much later. The inverted cal. 507DR that powered the Breguet Tradition 7027 — the watch that arguably pioneered this trend back in 2005 — pre-dated its conventional counterpart by two decades. The cal. VS00 that powers the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 is...
WatchAdvice
The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 forms part of Hublot’s Manufacture Piece collection, and for good reason. Now, it’s time to take it out for a test drive… What We Love The Water Blue colour is sensational in person The movement is Hubot showcasing what it does best The undeniable wrist presence What We Don’t It is a large watch, and not for those with smaller wrists The older-style rubber strap is not easy to get the perfect fit, when compared to the newer style Will be out of the price range for many watch buyers and is a substantial investment Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 There are some watches that look impressive in a press release, but when you finally see them in the metal, they somehow manage to be not as much. Then there are watches like the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 Water Blue Sapphire, where the opposite is true. The photographs give you an idea of what the watch is all about, but they really do not prepare you for what it looks like on the wrist. The MP-11 has always been one of Hublot’s more outrageous creations. First introduced in 2018, it was designed around a movement with seven series-coupled barrels and a 14-day power reserve, all packaged inside a relatively conventional Big Bang-style case. The Water Blue Sapphire version takes that already unconventional construction and places it inside a transparent blue sapphire case that allows almost every part of the movement to remain visi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bernhardt Captain review featuring the Cypress green guilloché dial, rose gold PVD case, Miyota 9039 movement, and compact 38mm dimensions.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Glashütte Original simplifies its Senator Chronograph with a smaller case, cleaner layout, flyback movement, and two distinct designs.
WristBuzz
38 pieces, a fumé sapphire dial, and a colour palette that makes the movement part of the story
SJX Watches
Blancpain is marking the 70th anniversary of its lesser-known dive watch with the 1960s-inspired Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe. With a faithful 37.4 mm steel case and high-end movement, the Bathyscaphe will likely be welcomed by collectors who have been waiting for a more compact Fifty Fathoms. Initial thoughts Blancpain has an unusually rich history of producing dive watches — the Fifty Fathoms dates to 1953 and introduced the now-ubiquitous rotating dive bezel at roughly the same time as the Rolex Submariner. Blancpain’s early divers were commercial products aimed at military customers — then the only sizable market for such watches. That changed in 1956, when growing consumer interest in diving led to the release of the Bathyscaphe. This historic name was reborn in 2013, but the contemporary interpretation of the line was a significant aesthetic departure from the look of the original 1950s and 1960s models. Somewhat confusingly, Blancpain is marking the 70th anniversary of the Bathyscaphe with an homage to a 1968 model. Timeline aside, the anniversary edition features a period-correct 37.4 mm case and beige Super-LumiNova to capture the aged look of surviving originals. The arrow-tipped running seconds hand is another charming detail that reproduces the original look to good effect. During the 1950s and 1960s, Blancpain waffled between serif and sans-serif wordmarks, and the brand has opted for the latter for the anniversary edition. To my eye it strikes just the rig...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Kiwame Tokyo Yane pairs a rectangular case with Japanese architectural references, a minimalist lacquer dial, and a Miyota automatic movement.
Deployant
Czapek expands the Promenade collection with the Transparencies Aqua Blue with a smoked sapphire dial to subtly showcase the movement.
Time+Tide
Blancpain revives a 1968 Bathyscaphe for its 70th anniversary, with a 37.4mm case, vintage-inspired details and a 100-hour movement.
Hodinkee
This story is a special presentation from Hodinkee Japan, written and illustrated by Masaharu Wada, the Deputy Editor-in-Chief for Hodinkee Japan. For a young brand to revisit roughly 98 percent of the movement components in a GPHG-winning watch after receiving the award might ordinarily sound like cause for concern. But when I visited Fam al Hut's workshop in Taicang, Jiangsu Province, China, I came away feeling almost the opposite. More than anything else, that fact seemed to capture exactly where the brand stands today. A large industrial elevator takes you to the second floor, where the doors open onto a long central corridor. To the right, behind glass walls, designers and engineers gather around technical drawings. To the left is a production floor lined with five CNC machines and other machine tools. Farther inside are a prototyping room, a finishing department, a clean room for movement assembly, a quality-control room, a stockroom, and even a dedicated room housing a femtosecond laser machine. Not everything is made here. Cases and sapphire crystals, among other components, still come from outside suppliers. What Fam al Hut has built, however, is an environment in which it can control the design, prototyping, machining, assembly, testing, and continued development of its movements. For such a young independent brand, the scale of the operation was far beyond what I had expected. Fam al Hut was founded in 2024. The following year, its debut watch, the MARK 1 Möb...
SJX Watches
Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko revisits Japan’s first wristwatch with two new Presage models featuring enamel and urushi dials and a 72-hour automatic movement.
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