Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Gave Its Most Important Dive Watch An Overdue Refresh
The updated Seiko Marinemaster HBF001 and HBF002 models bring a new movement, ceramic bezel, and real upgrades. Here's what stands out.
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3,312 articles · 298 videos found · page 45 of 121
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Fratello
Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level
Last week, I reported on a new high-end Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition with a beautiful green washi (Japanese paper) dial. In the same week, Citizen also introduced two new watches powered by a brand-new Eco-Drive caliber. The new lightweight Photon models feature state-of-the-art dials that combine an intriguing design with the latest in Citizen’s […] Visit Citizen Introduces Two New Limited-Edition Photon Models That Take Eco-Drive To The Next Level to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Best German Watch Brands (2026)
In general, a conversation about the top watch producing countries centers around two nations: Switzerland and Japan, with Japan often occupying the more affordable end of the spectrum and Switzerland more commonly associated with luxury watches and high watchmaking. Of course, this is an overgeneralization of the highest degree, as Japan is home to some of the finest purveyors of high watchmaking, and there are indeed great deals to be found from Switzerland. However, the real tragedy here is the omission of the often overlooked superpower in watchmaking that is Germany. Home to dozens of brands, including some of the best in the business according to a variety of metrics, Germany is an excellent country for watchmaking. In this article, we’ll be taking a look at some of the best German watch brands to provide an overview of names you should know if you’re new to German watches. In each synopsis, We'll begin with a bit of history, share a few of the brands' major accomplishments or best-loved models, and say a bit about what they’re up to these days. [toc-section heading="Laco"] Laco began life as Lacher & Co. in 1925 in Pforzheim, where it is still based today. The company is most famously known for being one of the five brands contracted to produce flieger watches (such as the Beobachtungsuhr) for pilots in the German Luftwaffe ― alongside A. Lange & Söhne, Stowa, and Wempe. The Laco of today continues to be popular for its flieger watches. And unlike IWC an...
Monochrome
Introducing – Volumes by Simon LeFrancois Explores Shapes and Materials
Indie watchmaking is very much on the rise, and we see a surge of cool new watches high and low. From the ever-intriguing industrial wonders of Otsuka Lotec to the ultra-artisanal The Owl by L’Atelier Bernards, it all seems to find its audience across the globe. Yet some of these low-volume watchmakers are challenging to […]
SJX Watches
Seiko’s New Marinemaster Gives the People What They Want
Less than two years out from its 2024 relaunch, Seiko refreshes its flagship dive watch with the new Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch HBF001 and its limited edition counterpart, the HBF002. Both models feature a ceramic bezel, longer power reserve, better promised timekeeping, and a much-requested tool-less micro-adjust clasp - tangible upgrades that justify a near 25% premium over the previous generation. The regular production model launches alongside a more flamboyant 1,000-piece limited edition designed in collaboration with the Japan Agency for Marine-Earth Science and Technology (JAMSTEC). Initial thoughts Seiko relaunched the Marinemaster brand three years ago with an unexpected trio of compact skin-divers. This was followed by a return to form the following year with a pair of 300 m Hi-Beat Diver-inspired models that dispensed with the “Professional” branding, front-loading case construction, and helium impermeability that distinguished Marinemasters of the past, but offered a more compact 42 mm size and a much improved bracelet. However, it still used the same stamped clasp body found on entry-level divers, just with an upgraded swing arm, and relied on the aging cal. 8L35 movement while Seiko rolled out the improved cal. 8L45 in the similarly priced King Seiko Vanac. The new HBF001 solves all of those problems, and introduces only a few new ones. Given the similarity to the SLA079, Seiko clearly felt the need for unambiguous differentiatio...
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The Tissot Seastar 1000 we have been waiting for! Powermatic 80 Automatic in 40mm lots of upgrades!
Monochrome
First Look – The New King Seiko Vanac Titanium Collection
Released about a year ago, the King Seiko Vanac collection was quite a surprise and, in all fairness, caused some discussions. Based on bold designs from the 1970s, the name Vanac is far from new and was revamped in a sports watch with an integrated bracelet and sharp case, powered by a high-end movement derived […]
Monochrome
Introducing – Dominique Renaud Launches New Brand and Presents the One-Hertz-Beating Pulse60 Watch
If high-frequency is often marketed as the pinnacle of precision in modern watchmaking, things are actually more nuanced and more about managing the inevitable trade-offs. Every gain in one area usually comes with a drawback elsewhere. Although he has already worked on high-frequency, low amplitude oscillators, industry veteran Dominique Renaud is now taking the opposite […]
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S²
Greubel Forsey’s entry-level sports watch has been in production for five years and is now at an end. The brand is saying goodbye with a pair of final editions, the Balancier Convexe S² in ceramic. The first version is entirely in white ceramic, and the second is black ceramic with the bezel and case back in 18k red gold. Each limited to 11 pieces, the two editions share the same movement, but decorated differently to match the case. It’s manual wind, time-only calibre that is anything but simple; the movement is equipped with the brand’s trademark inclined balance wheel as well as titanium bridges and plates. Initial thoughts A bestseller for Greubel Forsey when sports watches were all the rage, the Convexe line (and related sports models) is gradually being reduced. The Balancier Convexe S² is one of the few sports models that Greubel Forsey has launched since the change in management resulted in the pivot towards more classical watches, exemplified by last year’s Nano Foudroyante. It might be also one of the last: Greubel Forsey notes besides the end of the model’s production, “[this year] also marks the beginning of a gradual transition toward an almost entirely new collection”. While this change in direction has been welcomed by many enthusiasts who appreciate Greubel Forsey returning to its root, the Convexe watches do have their charm. The Balancier Convexe S² illustrates this – the case is large but ergonomic and wearable, and the sporty constru...
Deployant
New: the closing chapter of the Greubel Forsey Convexe S2
Greubel Forsey releases the final two editions of the Convexe S2, one in black ceramic with 5N red gold and the other in full white ceramic.
Monochrome
First Look – The new Fortis Marinemaster M-44 DLC Gravity Black and Black Resin
First introduced in 2021 alongside its smaller, less pro-oriented M-40 version, the Fortis Marinemaster M-44 was part of the new collections to mark the renewal of the brand, and yet it carried a name with historical importance. For once, not a watch linked to pilots, the Marinemaster (specifically the rugged, high-performance M-44 versions) is more […]
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Louis Vuitton's Fiery Heart Automata will have you falling in love
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Serica’s New Dive Watch Has A Lot More Going On Than Just A Date Window
The Serica 5330 is the brand's first date-equipped dive watch-a 39mm, COSC-certified chronometer with a new dial and ceramic bezel.
Fratello
Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window
The guys at Serica take their vintage-inspired designs very seriously. The brand’s watches are all about the perfect proportions, high legibility, and great wearability. Up until now, a date window wasn’t part of that equation. However, as representatives of many brands tell us, some people won’t buy a watch unless it has a date window. […] Visit Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer - The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier Introduces the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa
As Watches & Wonders approaches, I find myself thinking back to last year’s fair and the various high and lowlights from that crop of releases. I’ve commented before about a pretty big highlight of last year’s show being Parmigiani Fleurier’s output, particularly their very strong Toric perpetual calendar. This is one of those watches that I rarely go a week without thinking about, like the woman in the white dress that Bernstein remembers from the ferry in Citizen Kane. Anyway, Parmigiani is always a fun meeting at Watches & Wonders and my expectations are high after last year. In what I imagine will be their last release before the show next month, the brand has just introduced a new pink colorway to the Tonda PF line in 36mm. I’m not sure if we can consider this a preview of things to come (honestly, we probably can’t) but it’s a strong release nonetheless further bolsters the Tonda PF platform as an important player in the integrated bracelet sports watch landscape. The new Tonda PF Automatic 36mm Alta Rosa brings a lighter dial color to the steel version of the 36mm Tonda PF for the first time – previously this watch had been available in blue and two shades of gray. Pink dials of course are often associated with watches targeted toward a female clientele, but hopefully the greater watch collecting community has moved beyond these types of prohibitive norms around gender and watch preferences. This is a really attractive color that can be worn by a...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Eska Amphibian 250 Destro, a new Lefty Take on the Tool Watch
In a market overcrowded with vintage-inspired dive watches, ranging from truly affordable models to high-end watches produced by esteemed brands, Eska, a name with over 100 years of history (with a stop from 1987 to 2024), has managed to find a place for its cool-looking, well-built and fairly priced Amphibian 250 collection. Modelled after a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Ming Watch Brand Review: Independent Watchmaking With A Decentralized
When it comes to luxury watches, rarely is a timepiece experienced on the wrist before it is admired through a lens. Horological photography has evolved so much that high-resolution imagery and macro-cinematography have become a virtual loupe, portraying the watch’s qualities and character through focus stacking and special lighting. For brands like MING, the photograph is the primary medium of truth, since the founder of the company is a world-class photographer. Ming Thein spent years dissecting the world’s finest timepieces through the lens of a camera. Before long, he became one of the industry’s most respected photographers, forming an obsession with light and how it behaves on the surface of a watch. Since building his own brand, Ming Thein has continued to nurture this special relationship between timekeeping and imagery, so much so that it has become part of the brand’s unique story. Every curve of a flared lug or inverted lume track on a dial is designed to catch, bend, and manipulate light – a philosophy that has translated into a string of global successes, including the "revelation" of the 17.06 Copper and the 2024 GPHG-winning 37.09 Bluefin. [toc-section heading="The Brainstorm That Gave MING Its Lift-Off"] Early concept sketch Plenty of business ideas have probably been dreamt up while racking up air miles, but the origins of MING were perhaps among the most unexpected. During a return flight from a 2014 watch fair, cruising 30,000 feet above the gr...
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Watches That Have PROBLEMS (that are small but bother me nonetheless)
SJX Watches
Craft at Scale: Audemars Piguet’s Industrial Strategy
Audemars Piguet (AP) is a storied name in haute horlogerie, and has long been the public face of the Vallée de Joux, the cradle of high complications in Switzerland. It’s also the only brand in the so-called ‘holy trinity’ to employ a Chief Industrial Officer (CIO). We sat down with Lucas Raggi to understand his role in shaping AP’s industrial strategy. The historical home of Audemars Piguet. Image – Audemars Piguet The context Having closed the chapter on the brand’s first 150 years, AP is flying high. According to Vontobel estimates, the brand generated more than CHF2.4 billion in 2025, making it the third-largest brand by revenue after mass market masters Rolex and Cartier. The brand is estimated to have produced more than 50,000 watches in 2025, up from 30,000 just a few years ago. The ribbon-cutting ceremony at the opening of AP’s new Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – Audemars Piguet The new Arc Manufacture, which just came online, might raise the ceiling further. In a 2022 interview then-chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias suggested AP would be capable of making up to 65,000 watches annually by 2027. These numbers represent extraordinary growth for a century-old family owned brand that makes complicated watches. So how does a brand like AP (nearly) double its output in less than a generation without sacrificing small-scale craftsmanship? In short, thoughtful industrialisation. The recently opened Arc Manufacture in Le Brassus. Image – A...
Monochrome
Introducing – Citizen Launches The Smaller, Slimmer Series 8 NB608 Collection
One of the major watch brands from Japan, and a proper industrial giant producing millions of movements a year through its Miyota manufacture, Citizen covers everything from entry-level watches to high-end models with impressive attention to detail. In between the highly accessible Tsuyosa collection and the luxury The Citizen collection sits the Series 8, a […]
Worn & Wound
Czapek Introduces Two New Exotic Mother of Pearl Dials in the Promenade and Antarctique Collections
If you had told me a few years ago that much of what I’d be doing at Worn & Wound in terms of new release coverage would be writing about mother of pearl and stone dial executions like a beat reporter at small town paper assigned to the high school basketball team, I probably would not have believed it. But here we are, multiple years into a trend that does not really seem to be letting up. It started with a resurfacing of high end vintage watches with exotic stone dials, moved to bigger brands capitalizing on the hype, shifted to smaller makers and microbrands offering impossibly affordable options, and now we’re back at the high end, and seeing brands looking for new ways to combine stones and materials in novel ways. Last week, Czapek announced a pair of watches that make particularly interesting use of mother of pearl. The Antarctique S Ice Cloud is, at a glance, simply an Antarctique with a mother of pearl dial. But there’s some special artisanal work that has gone into the making of this particular dial, which has been conceived as a “poetic interpretation of cloud formations in an icy landscape.” The dial is constructed from a piece of white mother of pearl that is cut to just 0.2mm thick – the height of two sheets of paper, according to Czapek. A varnish is then applied to the underside of the mother of pearl surface using a horsehair brush, which creates a cloudlike pattern that is unique to each dial. The varnish itself is tinted blue, and the art...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Remarkable Leica ZM 1 And ZM 2
The name Leica often comes up in the Fratello office. Usually, it’s in reference to its famous cameras, but ever since the German brand introduced its first mechanical watches, we’ve also begun associating it with horology. This shows how closely connected mechanical watchmaking and photography are. In both, high-precision instruments are vital, and Leica certainly […] Visit Hands-On With The Remarkable Leica ZM 1 And ZM 2 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Dancing Cage: 10 Best Tourbillon Watches
In my experience, few things in high-end watchmaking catch the eye like the tourbillon. Its hypnotic motion is mesmerising, turning timekeeping into a visual performance. The post The Dancing Cage: 10 Best Tourbillon Watches appeared first on Quill & Pad.
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Casio Have LOST THEIR MIND With The New Oceanus | Bulova Is Copying 70s Re-Issue Trend
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Watches For Kids: Fun And Practical Picks For All Ages
While I’m sure the internet primarily knows me as a watch writer/teeny tiny watch enthusiast, a lesser-known fact about me is that I used to teach English abroad in the first couple of years after I graduated from college. I might not have kids myself, but I do think this experience makes me uniquely qualified to scour the internet for the best kids' watches available today, and synthesize them into an easily digestible guide for those who want to share their love of watches with a young one in their life. From back in my classroom days, I know that durability and practicality are essential ingredients to a great watch for kids. I’ll also be going for a broad stylistic range, from the fun and playful to the more sophisticated, to account for both elementary school-age kids and those entering their tween years. Additionally, it does not strike me as wise to invest major cash into a child’s first watch, unless you are getting one early to then gift it to them at a more appropriate age, so I’ve also gone for the affordability factor as well. [toc-section heading="Timex Time Machines"] In my opinion, Timex currently has one of the most impressive ranges of kids' watches, making pieces geared towards pre-schoolers all the way to tweens and teens. Dubbed the Time Machines collection by the brand, a huge drawis that all the brand’s kids’ watches come with a replacement program in case your little one happens to break or lose their new watch. Additionally, the highes...
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium Review
In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock. Using Ceratanium (which ha...
Deployant
New: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
IWC unveils their first Portugieser model in Ceratanium - their version of ceramic, in a new release of the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 10 Best Gold Chronographs in 2026
Let's face it: a gold chronograph is not exactly the most subtle style of wristwatch you can sport. Combine the high complication, the complex multi-level dial, and the gleaming precious-metal execution of the case (and, in some instances, also the bracelet), and the result tends to be a prominent, weighty, and expensive timepiece that inevitably attracts attention. Unlike standard, three-handed gold dress watches, gold chronographs are not built to be shy, discreetly hiding their assets beneath a shirt cuff. All the more reason, then, to make sure that if you're bold enough to rock one of these watches, that the face it's presenting to the world is one that inspires awe and admiration. Here are 10 of our favorites from an elite lineup of respected watchmakers. [toc-section heading="Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph"] Price: $95,400, Case Size: 41mm, Case Height: 11mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Audemars Piguet Caliber 4401 Audemars Piguet’s frosted white gold, used here for the 41mm case of a vibrant, blue-dialed chronograph within Audemars Piguet’s flagship Royal Oak collection, is achieved through a process of hammering the gold with a diamond-tipped tool to create tiny indentations - a process that dates back to ancient Florence. The dial’s surface is enhanced with the signature Royal Oak Grand Tapisserie texture and highlighted by contrasting golden-toned subdials at 3, 6,...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Tudor Ranger 39mm And 36mm In Beige And Black
When we were offered the opportunity to go hands-on with almost the entire current line of Tudor Ranger models, I immediately volunteered. GADA (go anywhere, do anything) field watches are my favorite category, and I hold Tudor in very high regard. Naturally, I was very curious to experience Tudor’s take on the genre. As it […] Visit Hands-On With The Tudor Ranger 39mm And 36mm In Beige And Black to read the full article.
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