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Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1 Jul 8, 2023

Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical

Ever since I went down the rabbit hole of watch enthusiasm, truly well and down the hole, I have always wanted to visit the Grand Seiko manufacture in Japan – it was at the tippy-top of my horological bucket list. Then I got a phone call, like a pitcher waiting in the bullpen, from Andrew … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko Manufacture Tour Part 1: Studio Shizukuishi – the home of 9S mechanical appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Seiko Announces Jul 5, 2023

Seiko Announces the SJE093, a Nearly Identical Recreation of the 62MAS Dive Watch

How many times can you go back to the well? If you’re Seiko, and the well is the 62MAS, the answer, apparently, is as many times as you’d like. Or, six. By my rough count, that’s how many re-editions of the historically important Seiko diver we’ve seen since 2017, when they began to really lean into the iconography of their first professional dive watch with the SLA017 along with the SPB051, setting a template for both limited edition, higher priced versions of the 62MAS reedition for collectors, and a more value oriented approach for everyday watch enthusiasts, an approach that was arguably perfected with the SPB143 and its many, many variants. Now, just announced, Seiko has revealed a new re-edition of the 62MAS that might be the closest yet to the aesthetic of the original, with a higher end movement that brings the watch into luxury territory.  The headline here is that the case size of the new SJE093 is the closest approximation yet to the original watch from 1965. It gets the diameter exactly right at 38mm, and, crucially, comes in at just 12.5mm thick. Those are nearly identical measurements to the original 62MAS, and a whole lot more slender than the reissues, and it’s thanks to a new caliber making its debut in this very watch.  The new caliber is the 6L37, which shares an architecture with the 6L35, but has been upgraded to be more durable and resistant to shocks. Seiko says this caliber was made expressly for divers. The “L” series movements are ...

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife Time+Tide
Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Jul 5, 2023

Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife

Australia has the highest rate of mammal extinction in the world with nearly one in three of our unique mammals at risk of dying out. The Foundation for National Parks & Wildlife are the charity partner of Australia’s national parks, ensuring that our wildlife and wilderness are conserved for future generations. What’s all this got to do … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko auctions off last “Pink Flannel Flower” watch to help Australian wildlife appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Jul 4, 2023

G-SHOCK Looks to the Northern Lights for Inspiration in New MTG-B3000 Aurora Oval

A new MT-G from G-Shock brings a stunning selection of vibrant colors to the case, dial, and strap in a full embracing of its inspiration, the aurora borealis as seen from space. The watch is the MTG-B3000, and it uses a stainless steel recrystallization and deep-layer hardening processes with a rainbow IP coating applied to the surface that brings the shimmering ROY G BIV tones to life on the bezel and case. The result is an ever changing vibrance paired with blacks, reds, and purples to round out the effect. This is a watch that uses every surface, nook, and cranny to express the theme, and it makes a unique impression as a result, even for an MT-G.  Taking inspiration from nature is nothing new of course, as we’ve seen executed beautifully by the likes of Grand Seiko and others, generally in the form of a dial texture or the color palette at use. In typical G-Shock style, they’ve embraced the inspiration of the aurora in a unique manner thanks to their material processes and treatments. The aurora borealis is not a static event, occurring when charged particles collide with the earth’s atmosphere, causing billions of flashes to occur in sequence, giving the appearance of ‘dancing’ across the sky in an organic manner. Recreating this effect in a material was the goal for G-Shock, and one they achieved in a way that is unfortunately incapable of being captured in photographs. The process of creating the bezel begins with the stainless steel base, which undergoe...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations Time+Tide
Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch Jun 23, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations

Grand Seiko love to celebrate anniversaries, unveiling countless special editions to commemorate milestones of the manufacture. Today, however, Grand Seiko helps Disney celebrate their 100th anniversary with a remixed version of their SLGH011 “Green Birch”. Looking at the front of this 100-piece limited edition SLGH025, everything is exactly the same. But flip it over and … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko remix their Green Birch with Mickey Mouse for Disney 100th celebrations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE257 Three years ago Jun 16, 2023

Turning 50 with the Grand Seiko SBGE257

Three years ago, my significant other turned 50 and for this milestone birthday she absolutely wanted a Tesla automobile. As the wonderful husband I am and knowing my 50th birthday was three years away, I knew this could open the door to a significant watch purchase, so of course, we made it happen. Luckily, we were very fortunate to take possession of her new cherry red car just weeks before the pandemic turned the entire world upside down.  From that day forward, I had to figure out what would make the perfect 50th birthday watch, however, before we get to this process, you have to understand something about me. I call myself a serial monogamist when it comes to watch collecting. I am one of those people that can only have one “good” watch at a time. I cannot seem to have more than one, as there is always a preferred one and that one always gets the wrist time.  As a result, since 1997, I have gone through hundreds of watches, always looking for watch next. My preference is for sport, dive and pilot watches and I have owned, photographed and reviewed some of the very finest in the world. I have done this by frequently trading, or selling and buying, but always with the same pool of watch funds. Oh, I have added a little bit here and there, and I have also gotten lucky a few times and come out favorably on some trades. All that said, it has been years since the wifely unit permitted a large watch purchase.  You see, we have two adult kids in college and despite wha...

The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Jun 13, 2023

The Seiko 5 Sports Collection Comes Full Circle with a Faithful Recreation of the 1968 Original and Three Additional Models that Hit the Remix Button

The Seiko 5 Sports collection has made quite the impressive and industry-impacting run in its 55 years of existence. Within that time, we’ve seen a constant evolution of the collection with countless iterations of the Seiko 5 Sports watch. There has been a slew of limited edition pieces and special collaborations that displays the brand’s willingness to do something fun and different. There have been many “firsts” for the collection, as well as many returns to form. But no matter how much the collection has ebbed and flowed, the Seiko 5 Sports watch has a knack for finding its way into all of our collections. Whether you’re a veteran in the horology game or a rookie just getting started, a common thread will always be a Seiko 5. The collection continues to open many doors into the hobby, and for some, has kept them right in the thick of it with easy-going designs and models packed with tons of value. Today however, isn’t about the journey, but about where it all began in 1968 with the first ever Seiko 5 Sports watch. With this nostalgic release from Seiko, we get a faithful recreation of the OG diver built on the five pillar foundation from which the Seiko 5 gets its name – a sports watch containing an automatic movement, day-date display, water resistance, durable case and a recessed crown at four o’clock. The limited edition Seiko SRPK17 retains its 39.5mm steel cushion case with its distinguishable scalloped edge shaping the top and bottom. With a front-...

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9

Grand Seiko is well-known for a wide array of dial expressions, faceted case geometries, handsome Zaratsu finishing, and, of course, their proprietary Spring Drive system. But as one of few truly vertically integrated manufactures, Grand Seiko does have one glaring gap in their catalogue: complications. Yes, Grand Seiko has previously presented GMT watches and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph puts the evolution in Evolution 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports retro colour Jun 13, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection

With its incredibly expansive catalogue of references and huge production numbers, the original Seiko 5 collection still feels like a pillar of the watchmaking landscape. Despite a complete refresh of the series, discontinuing all existing models in 2019 and starting from scratch, the remaining stock usually still offers fantastic value and cool designs. For that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko 5 Sports retro colour collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rado Adds Three New Ceramic Watches to their Great Gardens of the World Series Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko have been doing May 30, 2023

Rado Adds Three New Ceramic Watches to their Great Gardens of the World Series

Since 2017, Rado has partnered with the Great Gardens of the World organization on watches that are inspired both by nature and the sometimes meticulous preparation of the world’s great gardens. Watchmaking and gardening might seem like an unlikely match at first, but this series is really an opportunity for Rado designers to use the natural world as a starting point for their work, which isn’t so different from what brands like Grand Seiko have been doing for years. It’s interesting to see Rado’s take on a “nature” watch, though, as they apply texture and materials in markedly different ways than other brands, coming up with watches that are very distinctly their own, with a focus on materials and highlighting Rado’s unique visual design language.  The latest watches in the series are all inspired by specific plants found in different corners of the world, but are currently on the endangered species list. They have dynamic, textured dials and use Rado’s True Thinline ceramic case and bracelet platform as a starting point. First up is Chapter 8 (it’s the 8th watch in this ongoing series), inspired by the Hawaiian Loulu Lelo plant, which has distinct pleated leaves. The dial is broken up into separate sectors that have the pleats running in opposite directions, creating an almost psychedelic effect that is common to this series. While the Loulu Lelo leaves are a verdant green, this watch has been rendered entirely in black ceramic, with contrasting gold t...

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits Worn & Wound
Seiko Rado Simplon & More May 18, 2023

eBay Finds: King Seiko, Rado Simplon, & More Full Kits

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage King Seiko 45-7000 King Seikos were one of Seiko’s high end dress watch lines, and to this day they are still highly under-rated. This model, the 45-7000 is easily one of their best ever designs. A classic example of Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, with bold flat planes and sharp edges on the stainless steel case. The clean silver dial with no date and the manual wind hi-beat movement make it nearly perfect. I can tell you from experience that this model is very difficult to find in excellent condition, having looked for one for about 10 years. Recently I found one from a seller in Singapore, otherwise I’d be buying this example myself! The case has been refinished, which I would usually avoid, but it was done by Lapinist who does simply stunning work and actually finishes the cases with the same Zaratsu technique as Seiko. This one also comes with a super cool see-through caseback (still has the original too), so you can see that beautiful movement! View auction here. Vintage CWC Chronograph Here we have a brilliant vintage military issue chronograph. This CWC two-register chrono has markings indicating it was issued to the British Royal Air Force. The large 39m wide a...

A Brief Encounter with the Naoya Hida Watches, Including the New Type 4 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko make stunning steel watches May 12, 2023

A Brief Encounter with the Naoya Hida Watches, Including the New Type 4

It’s hard to imagine how fine a more or less simple steel watch can be. You’ve likely encountered high-end steel watches from the typical luxury houses that come to mind. For example, Omega, Rolex, or Grand Seiko make stunning steel watches with excellent finishing. It’s fair to ask yourself, how much better or different can finishing get? And then, if you’re lucky enough to have the opportunity, you get to see Naoya Hida’s watches, and you realize that a seemingly simple steel watch still has plenty of room for elevation. The difference isn’t in broad strokes, it’s in the minutia. “Fit and finish” turned up that much more. Details are finished by hand for that wabi-sabi effect of subtle variations and vibrations that add life. I once heard a person refer to something as having “gravity” to define the “X” factor that sets something of quality apart. As a physical, unavoidable force of attraction, this makes sense. While it might take a loupe to truly appreciate the subtleties of the finish on a Naoya Hida watch, it pulls you in with a force beyond your control. I’ve had the experience of seeing the Naoya Hida watches twice now, about a year apart from each other, both times at Mark Cho’s Armoury location in NYC’s Tribeca. The first time was certainly exciting, but the second, which was just a few weeks ago, was revelatory. Perhaps that is because Mr. Hida, and his engraver Keisuke Kano, came to the US to present the watches in person. The ad...

Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” Worn & Wound
Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” May 1, 2023

Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie”

On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. On today’s episode, we take a look at the Seiko Prospex SNJ029. Nicknamed the “Safarnie”, this watch was a modern interpretation of the classic Ana-Digi watch worn by action star Arnold Schwarzenegger in his movies. The post Highlights from the shop: The Seiko Prospex “Safarnie” appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida Time+Tide
Grand Seiko design Apr 7, 2023

Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida

Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026

Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt Hotaka Peaks” Apr 3, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 takes the Mt. Motaka dial in a verdant direction with a silvery-green finish The asymmetrical bi-colour bezel is luminous in its white section, and is covered with a sapphire insert The 44mm case is 200m water resistant, and is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement The term ‘forest green’ has … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Mar 27, 2023

Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph SLGC001

Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...

A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More! Worn & Wound
Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + Mar 12, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More!

This week’s episode of A Week in Watches starts off on a sad note with a quick memorial to Gerd Rüdiger Lang, who passed away at 80 just last week. A pioneer in the independent space, his contributions to the world of watchmaking were vast. Our condolences to his family and friends. From there, we move to new releases. This week we have a colorful Mido with a flyer GMT and world time bezel that will surely be popular. Then we move on to the Mission to Moonshine – look it’s news, so we had to cover it, right? Lastly, Seiko finally adds mechanical GMTs to their Prospex diver line, and we’re happy about it. This week’s episode was brought to you by Quick Release. Quick Release is a place where Worn & Wound’s partners showcase a wider variety of watches, product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Check back daily, follow Quick Release on Instagram, and subscribe to our mailing list so you don’t miss a thing. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s “Naomi Uemura” SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Mar 8, 2023

Seiko Introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s “Naomi Uemura”

Nearly fifty years since Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) scaled several of the world’s tallest mountains – and crossed Greenland on a dog sledge with a Seiko on his wrist – Seiko introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition” (SLA069). Inspired by the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” that accompanied Uemura on his solo dog sledge run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976, the SLA069 has a mountain-motif dial and blue coating on the bezel and crown. Initial thoughts This limited edition makes sense philosophically since it’s a Japanese watch that pays tribute to a Japanese explorer who wore something similar on his expeditions. The design is obviously based on the ref. 6105, a model commonly referred to as “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the lead character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. Seiko has done several ref. 6105 remakes in the recent past, including another Uemura edition, but the SLA069 has details that make it distinctive, like the textured dial and blue access on the case. As a limited edition, the SLA069 is slightly priced higher than regular production “Captain Willard” divers, but not very much more, making it an appealing proposition for someone who wants a retro diver with a few modern details. Willard style Uemura was a legendary explorer known for feats of mountaineering and exploration before disappearing in 1984 while descending Mount Denali after reaching the summit. B...

The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer Time+Tide
Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays Mar 8, 2023

The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer

Introducing the Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura Limited Edition, with cues of glacial colours Inspired by the conquests of one of Japan’s best-known explorers Powered by a GS-derived automatic movement, the Caliber 8L35 Naomi Uemura was a man of focus, commitment and sheer will. He was the first person to solo-climb Denali, the highest mountain peak … ContinuedThe post The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGH289 Feb 18, 2023

VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out

After the last edition of our Versus column between Seiko and Hamilton, Japan and Switzerland are battling each other once more. The rules state that these two watches must both be vying for the same customers, and it’s my job to determine where they match up, where they differ and which is the better option. … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Grand Seiko SBGH289 and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M divers duke it out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.