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Opinion: Pedigree, Provenance and a Case for the Newcomers Worn & Wound
Rolex wore it best Aug 12, 2024

Opinion: Pedigree, Provenance and a Case for the Newcomers

History is a double edged sword for a budget conscious collector like me. The nerdy half of me loves to get caught up in the horological space race of 1969 and participate in the 1953 drama of debating if Smiths or Rolex wore it best on top of Everest. But while my romantic side finds joy in history, the frugal collector in me has some reservations. This side of me knows that the watch industry is in constant flux as it adapts to new technologies, reacts to wars and navigates economic shifts. It’s the side of me that acknowledges brands brimming with pedigree did not weather this history unchanged, and can’t help but notice the value from those shiny new microbrands with seemingly no history to offer. What is a collector to do when they have a romantic enthusiast on one shoulder telling them the story behind a watch matters and a frugal cynic on the other asking if a plastic chronograph is really worth a premium because its metal counterpart went to the moon? Personally, rambling blog-style until coming to some sort of conclusion aimed at making sense of an often nonsensical hobby has never steered me wrong. Provenance vs Pedigree: A Collector’s Dilemma Historical watch conversations often focus on provenance, which can most simply be defined as the story behind a specific watch. Provenance is what separates Paul Newman’s Daytona from every other “Paul Newman” Daytona. It’s what makes Buzz Aldrin’s out-of-this world, misplaced Speedmaster worthy of obsessio...

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Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Rolex Aug 6, 2024

Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver

Ever since humans began exploring the ocean’s depths, watch companies have been creating timepieces capable of withstanding the pressures of SCUBA diving. In the 1950s and 60s, companies like Blancpain, Rolex, and Omega raced to create watches with the greatest water resistance. However, a small collaborative brand outdid them all with a watch capable of reaching a depth of 1000 meters. It took Rolex well into the next decade before they made a watch that could go beyond that. One of those collaborators was Ollech & Wajs, and the legendary timepiece was named the Caribbean 1000. Roughly thirty years later, when the internet was still in its early stages, if you were searching the web for dive watches, there’s a good chance you came across New Old Stock (NOS) Caribbean 1000 watches by Ollech & Wajs or Jenny. In its heyday, O&W; produced nearly 10,000 watches per year. There were still quite a few unused watches available, and collectors were thrilled to have access to them. Despite barely surviving the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Albert Wajs remained in charge until 2017, when the brand was sold to Charles Le Menestrel. Since then, the brand has been revived with reimagined models from the past, such as the Caribbean. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, O&W; is launching the most authentic reproduction of the original Caribbean 1000 to date, the C-1000 A. From its short, triangle-shaped lugs, affectionately referred to as ‘Vampire fangs’ by collectors, to its narrow 12...

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Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko Fratello
Rolex MilSub.” Aug 4, 2024

Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko

This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.” The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, […] Visit Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko to read the full article.

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Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 30, 2024

Value Buys Pre-Owned from Establishment Brands

Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...

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Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches? Worn & Wound
Rolex Pepsi” GMT Jul 17, 2024

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches?

Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37?  Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...

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Worn & Wound
Rolex does watches It’s Jun 14, 2024

My Road to a Leica: a Tale of Experiences and Acceptance

“Leica” looms over cameras much like Rolex does watches. It’s a name with both meaning and stigma. On one hand, it speaks to quality, provenance, tradition, and a culture of dedicated enthusiasts. Conversely, it speaks to snobbery, wealth, style over substance, and exclusivity. Being who I am, I’m always suspicious of overly adored things, especially when they are expensive, as I can’t help but keep value in mind. Over the years, I’ve avoided the red dot despite countless recommendations. They just felt like too much of a thing I didn’t want to be a part of. A brand name for people who wanted to appear to be photographers, regardless of whether or not they had any skill or even a desire to shoot. Or maybe they didn’t even care if they appeared as photographers; the camera just served as an accessory to a lifestyle. Part of a kit that said, “Yeah, I do alright,” and looked great with a vintage Sub. *Side note: I wrote this intro before Griffin Bartsch covered the new SL3, and thus, I still thought myself clever for the Rolex comparison. As I now know it’s quite banal, I feel a tinge embarrassed, and yet, it holds a true statement, so it remains. As a former art major, I’ve always felt that cameras were tools, much like my paintbrushes. They could be used to create art or to document life. They weren’t lifestyle objects; they were a medium. I only got into photography in the first place to shoot my work in grad school. And then, I had to learn more ...

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Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving Fratello
Rolex Sea-Dweller Underwater photography Jun 7, 2024

Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, we learn more about Fratello reader Andre. He combines his passions for diving and underwater photography with his love of horology. This includes his fondness for his favorite diving companion, a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Underwater photography is a passion of mine as well. The underwater world is both enchanting and […] Visit Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving to read the full article.

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Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? Fratello
Rolex Daytona was worth just May 11, 2024

Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State?

In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.

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Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 21, 2024

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000

Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point.  Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...

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Leica Unveils the Highly Anticipated SL3 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 7, 2024

Leica Unveils the Highly Anticipated SL3

Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Leica is the Rolex of cameras. It’s a bit of a tired comparison, but it’s not an invalid one. They are each known for their impeccable build quality, a wonderful user experience, and for making beautiful objects. Both Rolex and Leica draw as much, if not more, attention to their vintage product as their modern, and each has a passionate and devoted fan base. And, at the end of the day, Leica and Rolex both make wonderful things. Today, we get to see a new wonderful thing from Leica; the SL3. The SL3 replaces the SL2 as Leica’s flagship full-frame, interchangeable lens mirrorless camera. At first blush, the new SL3 looks a lot like the SL2, but take a closer look and you’ll start to see major differences. Working from the outside in, the SL3 is smaller and lighter than the SL2. According to Leica, the SL3 has shed about 70g from its predecessor, and the overall dimensions of the camera have been shrunk down slightly. The SL3, despite these changes, remains weather-sealed to the IP54 standard. The SL3 also gets, for the first time in the model line, a tilt screen for its rear display, similar to the one the Q3 got last year. The 3.2” LED display has a slightly higher resolution than the display on the SL2 (2.3 million dots vs 2.1 million on the SL2) and the SL3 also comes equipped with a 5.76 million dot EyeRes EVF. The control layout of the SL3 has also seen a revision. Like with last year’s Q3, the introduction of a ti...

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Hands-on – The Accessible, Compelling, Go-Anywhere Traska Commuter Collection Monochrome
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Mar 1, 2024

Hands-on – The Accessible, Compelling, Go-Anywhere Traska Commuter Collection

There’s certainly no shortage of simple, versatile watches that can hang at the beach and complement a suit within a 12-hour period. The legendary Rolex Oyster Perpetual and related models always come to mind, but Traska’s Commuter collection brings this stylish versatility in affordable packages. Offered in 34.5mm, 36.5mm and 38.5mm cases, there’s truly a […]

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Interview – “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches Monochrome
Rolex but also many more Feb 21, 2024

Interview – “India Will Surely Be Among The Fastest-Growing Markets,” Says Yasho Saboo, Chairman of Ethos Watches

The watch industry and its market are in constant evolution, with new brands appearing almost daily. The distribution has to face intense volatility due to the duplication of selling channels, the increased pressure of business combinations and the recent rise of certified pre-owned (CPO), which concerns Rolex but also many more brands. A handful of […]

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IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera Nov 18, 2023

IWC Debuts the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph

Just in time for the Formula 1 Las Vegas Grand Prix, IWC reveals another rendition of a racing chronograph, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph. Available in two guises either titanium or Ceratanium, the new model retains the familiar visage of the standard Pilot’s Chronograph but with racetrack-inspired tweaks. Initial thoughts IWC has never quite had a bona fide racing chronograph with the gravitas of the Rolex Daytona or Heuer Carrera. Its past racing timepieces included the little loved and now discontinued Ingenieur and the more successful Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG.  With the success of the Pilot’s Chronograph Mercedes-AMG with its Tiffany blue-esque colour, it’s unsurprising that another iteration has come along. The new chronograph has a distinctive racing aesthetic despite being a Pilot’s Chronograph, thanks to the tachymeter scale and more pronounced dial markings. The Formula 1 feel is particularly evident in the Ceratanium model that’s distinguished by its predominantly black design embellished with white and mint green accents.  That said, the paradox of a Formula 1-inspired aviator’s watch is hard to understand – the two themes don’t go together at all, although it is an appealing sports watch. IWC is relying on the strength of its bestselling Pilot’s line to build a racing offering, in part due to the Ingenieur’s historical lack of success. The Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team model The model starts at US$9,800 in ...

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Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail SJX Watches
Rolex Nov 8, 2023

Obituary: Jörg Bucherer, the King of European Watch Retail

Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...

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A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

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Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

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MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet Time+Tide
Rolex just Aug 21, 2023

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet

When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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New releases from Grand Seiko, Garrick, Tissot, Bulova and more Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer … ContinuedThe Aug 19, 2023

New releases from Grand Seiko, Garrick, Tissot, Bulova and more

Novelty drops are picking up again, and thanks to the upcoming Geneva Watch Days fair at the end of the month, there will be plenty more to explore. For now, here are ten new watches from last week, including architecture-inspired timepieces, colourful katana-inspired dials, and watches that have more classic sensibilities. Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer … ContinuedThe post New releases from Grand Seiko, Garrick, Tissot, Bulova and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience” Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer 124270 Aug 15, 2023

The Fibonacci Sequence Strikes Again! Nomos and Revolution Team Up for the Tangente Neomatik 41 Update “Resilience”

The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic.  Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...

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We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Well Aug 3, 2023

We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey

Once upon a time, when Chat GPT made its debut and artificial intelligence became a point of mainstream discussion, we decided to let former president of the USA Donald Trump take a stab at writing a review of the Rolex Submariner. Well, an artificial intelligence pretending to be Trump that is. We do not have … ContinuedThe post We asked Chat GPT to review the Doxa SUB 300 in the voice of Matthew McConaughey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight Time+Tide
Rolex if they managed Jul 24, 2023

Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight

Tyson Fury has always had an eye for a nice watch. As Anthony Joshua once recalled, back when he was an amateur, Fury would go around London gyms looking for sparring partners and offering anyone his Rolex if they managed to knock him out. It’s a passion that has endured as he’s become one of … ContinuedThe post Tyson Fury’s new reality TV series looks set to be a watchspotter’s delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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