Deployant
We are off to the latest edition of Watches & Wonders!
And just like that, another year passes. And we are on our way to Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) 2024. Here is what to expect for the next week.
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Deployant
And just like that, another year passes. And we are on our way to Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG) 2024. Here is what to expect for the next week.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders hasn’t started yet, but I think we can safely identify the first honest to goodness trend: brands exhibiting at the show announcing new watches ahead of the big event. We saw it last week with Czapek, and now H. Moser is following suit with what I think can be fairly described as a Watches & Wonders apéritif. The Swiss indie has just announced a pair of watches in their Pioneer line in two distinct shades of green. One is a long awaited new entry in the Pioneer’s 40mm case, and the other is the latest example of Moser’s signature “Concept” dial. First up is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. If you’re unfamiliar with Moser’s Concept dials, they are devoid of markings and visible branding on the dial, and a showcase for whatever color, texture, or design Moser is interested in showcasing for a given watch. It’s a design principle that has become Moser’s signature, and while it’s certainly not for everyone, fans of the brand admire their commitment to showing off what are often vibrant colors and letting a stripped down aesthetic speak for itself. The Citrus Green colorway has a dramatic green fumé effect, with the shade at the center appearing yellow while growing to a darker green shade as we move to the perimeter. This reference is in the larger 42.8mm steel Pioneer case, which is water resistant to 120 meters. The Streamliner notwithstanding, the Pioneer is the closest thing Moser makes to a true sports watch, and...
Once again we are heading to the biggest watch event of the year, Watches & Wonders. Today our Head of Content, Kat Shoulders, goes through what’s going to be in her photography carry kit during the exhibition. Nailing down the perfect bag for these trips can be grueling as we are constantly on the go and need a quick and light kit to keep things moving. This episode was made possible by our friends at Nomatic. They have graciously lent Kat the new Luma Camera Pack 18L for her travels during Watches & Wonders. If you’ve listened to Kat’s podcast Changing Gears or watched previous episodes of Time to Pack, you know Kat’s been a long time fan of Nomatic. The new Luma collection is both stylish AND functional and keeps all the favorite bits everyone has come to love from Nomatic’s photography line. Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will continue to be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! The post Time to Pack: What’s In My Watches & Wonders Photography Bag appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...
Episode 77 of A Week in Watches is going to be slightly different. This episode has two hosts and no script! With the big event happening so soon (the next episode will be made from Watches & Wonders), we figured getting ready with a little Q and A would be fun. That said, two very different watches with prominent moon phase complications were also worth covering. Join Zach Kazan and Zach Weiss in the studio as they discuss the new releases and then answer some fantastic questions from the W&W;+ Slack community. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop, which recently added the new Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Tourbillon to the catalog. It is a gorgeous piece of haute horology that showcases Mr. Silberstein’s unique style. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 77: Mission to Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Fratello
Greg Petronzi is a passionate watchmaker who runs True Patina, a company that specializes in restoring vintage Rolex and Tudor watches. Recently, he sat down with me to share an ultra-rare Rolex Submariner 5510 that came across his workbench. Some of the best things about Rolex and Tudor are the stories. It has been a […] Visit Bringing A Rolex Submariner 5510 Australian “MilSub” Back To Life to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watches that break from conventional wisdom tend to provide the most memorable experiences on the wrist. We search out such examples around here and embrace new watches that aren’t afraid to cut against the grain in some way, shape, or form. Doing so presents a risk for brands, particularly large, well established brands. A by-the-numbers design meant to appeal to the largest possible swath of the population must, by definition, be as inoffensive as possible. Deviation from the template risks putting out a percentage of would-be buyers, but it also creates grounds for differentiation, a necessity in today’s crowded landscape of watch brands young and old. Achieving balance here means a design that’s unique and exciting, while being accessible enough to sell to enough people to make it work financially. Generally, the larger the brand the safer they play with this equation. But that’s not always the case, as many large brands still produce polarizing yet recognizable watches that have a focused appeal to a group of die hard fans. I’ll let you conjure up your own examples of watches that fall into this category. One such testament is the Longines HydroConquest, a watch with a big personality that’s been emblematic of the era it was originally designed in, the mid ‘00s. Longines was ahead of the game when it introduced the HydroConquest in 2007, presenting a fully modern, forward looking take on a serious dive watch at Baselworld, and even offered in both 39 a...
Quill & Pad
So far in 2023, GaryG has traveled to Switzerland twice: once for the Watches and Wonders week, and again in June for a very special event. Here he focuses on the independents, starting with a sequential journey through his first trip.
Time+Tide
Some people think you need to wait for Watches & Wonders to see new watches, but this June in New York, there are dozens of pieces seeing the light of day for the first time in decades. Over at Sotheby’s New York, two auctions are bringing out some heavy-hitting heroes. In the Important Watches Sale … ContinuedThe post Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop. The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...
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Quill & Pad
There was a plethora of reasonably priced watches to discover at Watches and Wonders 2022. And here Sabine Zwettler highlights five below $5,000 that caught her eye from Oris, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Tudor, and Baume & Mercier.
Worn & Wound
Hello, it’s me, Kat Shoulders, your friendly neighborhood photographer. As the Media Production Manager here at Worn & Wound, I tend to be more behind the scenes, but I have a goal this year to be a little more active with the editorial team as much as I can. I was honored to get to join the team this year at Watches & Wonders and had a freaking blast at my first show. I’ll admit it was a bit overwhelming at first, but by the time I was boarding my flight back to the states I really did not want to come back home. Being in Geneva felt like I was in the center of the watch world. Where it was ok to flaunt and talk about your watches as much as you wanted to or walk up to someone and ask what watch they were wearing. It was truly an experience that has put me on a bit of a high since I left and I find myself a bit more engaged in the watch release world again. It’s tough working in this industry sometimes – you get a bit jaded when it comes to new watches. Watches & Wonders really lifted my WIS spirits and it was lovely to get behind the camera to shoot many of the novelties at the show. I shot more watches than I can recall at Watches & Wonders but I had a few standouts that I’d like to give some special attention to. These are pieces that for some reason or another just really stood out to me and gave me all those warm fuzzy feelings inside. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds The new JLC Reverso Tribute Chrono was certainly a favorite among many...
SJX Watches
With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...
Worn & Wound
Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet). Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore. The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...
Worn & Wound
Well folks, it’s been a hectic Watches & Wonders. So hectic, in fact, that we missed the last few days of recaps. But the show has ended (public days start tomorrow, but we head back to the States early in the AM) and we’ve all taken a deep breath and thought about this back half of the week. This isn’t a final summation of our thoughts on the show, but our immediate reactions as it winds down in real time. Thanks for following along with us as we’ve reported from Geneva – we can’t wait to tell you more about what we saw. Zach Kazan The back half of Watches & Wonders has been essentially nonstop for all of us. We took a divide and conquer approach, splitting up to cover the most ground, and as a result will have tons of great watches to tell you about over the coming weeks. For me, the final day of Watches & Wonders was possibly the best single day of the show. Highlight number one: Hublot. This was perhaps my most anticipated meeting, because it unexpectedly turned out to be my favorite meeting of last year. The vibe when the Hublot novelties is presented is so markedly different from every other presentation, it’s hard not to notice. It’s lowkey and genuinely a lot of fun, and the watches, for me, have a Wow Factor that few brands can match. The most noteworthy piece is one I’ll be writing more about soon, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in blue sapphire, with a sapphire bracelet. It’s a technical marvel on a number of levels, and is one of those ...
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Worn & Wound
Day 2 of Watches & Wonders is history, and the Worn & Wound team is back to recap the day’s events once again. Today saw more meetings, more video shoots, and more frantically checking our calendars to make sure we don’t miss a key appointment. There were also plenty of surprises, from brands that we have known and loved for years, and also some that we all want to learn more about. Check our reactions to day 2 below. Zach Kazan Watches and Wonders Day 2 started, thankfully, after a good night’s sleep. To this point, the effects of jetlag have been mostly pretty minimal, and waking up early, having a real breakfast, and starting the day on Swiss time in mind and body was certainly a positive development. Some people come to these shows, put in a full day of work, and party hard well into the evening, and frankly I’m not sure how those people survive the week while meeting deadlines. I’ve learned that a nice thing that happens at an event like this is that a brand will inevitably surprise you, either with the watches they’re exhibiting, the presentation, or both. That happened today with TAG Heuer, who have introduced new Carreras that are more appealing than just about chronograph I’ve seen them release in the last three or four years. And that’s a lot of chronographs. Zach Weiss will have more on these tomorrow, but they’re an early favorite of the show for me. In person, they were so much stronger than I expected based on the brand supplied images. No...
Time+Tide
The biggest horological moment of the year is only days away. Beginning on March 27, Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 will kick off – alongside a whole Geneva Watch Week that includes other smaller fairs like Time To Watches. Basically, a lot of new releases will be announced next week and we want to make … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to stay across all the action at Watches & Wonders with Time+Tide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
We here at Worn & Wound are extremely excited to be attending, once again, Watches & Wonders in Geneva. It’s perhaps the biggest watch event of the year and a first for Kat Shoulders, our media production manager. Flying internationally can be a challenging and stressful time, but Kat has a pretty darn good kit to get her through a long day of flying. From the perfect bag, a useful watch, and a few interesting gadgets, she takes us through what she’ll be carrying on her flight! This episode is made possible by our friends at Camera West. They have graciously lent Kat the new Panasonic LUMIX S5II to take with her on the trip. Camera West carries many different camera options from Leica, Fujifilm, Sony, and more, but they actually recommended the S5 II for her Watches And Wonders adventure over the other options on the market with the biggest feature being the L-mount alliance making it compatible with Sigma, Leica, and other Panasonic lenses. Get all the details on Kat’s packing style and her professional tools, along with her very own gear hacks and tricks of the trade. We hope that Time to Pack will be that kind of content you didn’t even know you needed-watch-based content that delves into travel gear and packing in rich and robust ways. Enjoy! Learn more about Camera West and the Panasonic LUMIX S5II. The post Time to Pack Episode 2: My Watches & Wonders Airplane Travel Kit appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
I do not know about you guys, but I watch a fair bit of television and with so many shows and streaming platforms there is more content than ever before. But, whilst juggling all the different plot lines and narratives, nothing ticks me off more, at least in regard to TV, then when a series … ContinuedThe post Previously On: Watches & Wonders Geneva. Everything you need to get up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches & Wonders is fast approaching, and that means one thing: we’re running out of time to make predictions. It seems like everyone has some ideas about what we might see later this month in Geneva from Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, and others, and that certainly includes the Worn & Wound editorial team. The key difference, as podcast listeners are well aware, is that we have a demonstrated history of being completely, 100%, wrong. Here now are our wildest thoughts on what we might see at Watches & Wonders in just a few short weeks. These might seem a little crazy, but would you really have thought Rolex might release a lefty GMT at this time last year? We didn’t think so. Zach Weiss I’m really not good at making predictions for Watch & Wonders or other release events, and this year, half of the brands have already unveiled at least something coming up already (we keep embargos, so don’t even ask). That said, last year I did jokingly say in the office that if Tudor came out with a BlackBay 58 with a GMT and a steel bezel, I’d buy it, assuming the notion was too absurd. Sadly, that’s not in writing, so you’ll have to take my word for it, but I did follow through with the BBPro purchase. Anyway, I’m not making any such promises this year. Last year was one of big releases as it was the first true-Swiss tradeshow post-Covid lockdown. This year, I don’t think we’re going to see such exciting launches in general. So, prediction one is just a more ordi...
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Worn & Wound
Ah yes, the skull watch. While not exactly what I’d call a “staple,” watches featuring skulls have been ever present in modern watch collecting for years. Most notably, we can look to independent watchmaker Fiona Kruger as something of a skull watch specialist, but other brands are in on the skull action as well. From Invicta (of course, Invicta) to Richard Mille, there are skull watches out there for every taste and budget. Indeed, one of my favorite watches from last year features a skull in a nontraditional way. But we can’t talk about skull watches without talking about Bell & Ross, who have released a variety of these watches in their relatively short history. Their latest release, the BR 01 Cyber Skull Bronze, is one of the strangest yet. First, let’s answer the question many are likely asking themselves right now: why? While different brands might have varying rationales for creating skull watches, we can at least identify that the skull itself as a symbol is recognized somewhat universally as dealing with the idea of mortality. A memento mori, a reminder that every living thing dies, is a theme that exists in art going back centuries. This is a natural thematic playing field for a watch, dealing as it does with the passing of time. Also, they just kind of look cool. I’m reminded of a heavily tattooed friend being asked about the symbolism behind the artwork on his body (including, you guessed it, skulls) and his curt response, indicating that he just ...
SJX Watches
The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...
Revolution
Before the New Generation Watch Leadership symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei caught up with Jean Arnault, Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his deep passion for horology and high craftsmanship, and the brand’s progression from a luxury fashion house to the heights of haute horlogerie. Despite his […]
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: We’re not going to pretend that Hublot is for everyone – their designs are far too bold and ambitious for that. But any watch lover will always get a kick out of the brand’s new releases which – whether they involve material innovation or unexpected collabs – always demand horological attention. Here’s another look … ContinuedThe post Looking back at how Hublot came back with a bang at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This year’s Watches & Wonders amazed me, not just because I was shocked by the scale of the in-person event, but because so many different brands decided to buck all trends. Sure, there were plenty of green dials, but there also seems to be a growing desire for watches that show a quirkier personality, and … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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