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Monochrome
Norqain has its finger on the pulse and produces attractive, robust adventure watches that are remarkably popular among action-oriented watch buyers. Norqain CEO Ben Küffer has been able to count on some exceptional friends since he started his brand in 2018. One of these is Jean-Claude Biver, whose valuable input resulted in the Wild One. […]
SJX Watches
One of the leading names in contemporary Russian independent watchmaking alongside Konstantin Chaykin is Anton Suhanov, an ACHI candidate mostly known for his triple-axis table tourbillon clocks. He now applies his inventive mind to the calendar wristwatch to create the Chronotope, a timepiece with simple functions executed in a clever and sophisticated manner. Initial thoughts Russian watchmaking is more obscure compared to Swiss or German, but the country has a rich history of watch and jewellery artisans, most famously Faberge. Modern Russian haute horologerie harks back to that history, with Konstantin Chaykin and more recently Anton Suhanov being prime movers. The Chronotope is a day-date watch with an unusual dial design. A day-date complication is not difficult generally regarded as uninteresting because of its basic nature, but the unexpectedly original execution of the Chronotope makes it appealing. Displayed on a wide arc almost 360 degrees wide, the day of the week is indicated with a retrograde hand labelled “today”, which flies back to Monday at the end of the week. It is controlled by an exposed snail cam at six that forms an integral part of the aesthetic. The dial looks modern and almost industrial, with an interesting combination of muted greys with spots of colour, primarily in the form of ruby components – a clever way of utilising functional rubies as decorative elements. The industrial feel is underlined by the simple, but smartly detailed case. ...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders is just around the corner. Last year, while I was there, I also visited a smaller watch fair organized at the Beau Rivage Hotel in Geneva. There, I met SpaceOne co-founder Guillaume Laidet while he was showing people the prototypes of the SpaceOne Jumping Hour. That watch - or should I say […] Visit Introducing: The SpaceOne Tellurium - Bringing The Sun, Earth, And Moon Within Everyone’s Reach to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
What We Love: Indigo blue is stunning to look atThe ceramic Bracelet is well-executedFeels like a toy on the wrist but in a great way What We Don’t: Ceramic is resistant to scratches but has the potential to chipThe date wheel can blend into the movement at timesTaking links on/off to adjust the watch will be challenging Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8.5/10 When I think of Hublot, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the Big Bang, followed by the Hybrid rubber strap they pioneered back in 1980, which the brand is famous for. So, when I got the chance to test out the Big Bang in Blue Indigo Ceramic, I was excited because I got to try out a watch that doesn’t look like a Hublot but is still very much a Hublot. Big Bang was first released in 2005, which paved the way for the brand and its collections, such as Classic Fusion and Spirit of Big Bang, and has now evolved into highly complicated timepieces and material experimentation. Fifteen years later, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first-ever integrated Big Bang, and in 2022, released during watches and wonders, the world saw four unique Big Bang Ceramic monochrome colourways. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Blue Indigo, Sky-blue, Sand Beige and Jungle green represent the elements of water, earth and wood. An indigo blue from the Majorelle Garden, the streets of Chefchaouen in Morocco, and the Blue City of...
Monochrome
Car guys are watch guys… The assertion may seem like a cliché but often stems from a genuine connection. Jean Todt, a towering figure in motorsport known for his tenure as CEO of Ferrari and his role as President of the FIA from 2009 to 2021, is no exception to the rule. He’s also known […]
Worn & Wound
Few brands have the ability to surprise quite like Urwerk, but it makes sense that such an unconventional watch brand would be the one most likely to leave us all scratching our heads in wonder and confusion (in the best way possible, of course). Their latest creation, the Spacetime Blade, is based on a design that made its debut last year ahead of the scuttled Only Watch auction. The clock, outfitted with a series light bulbs lit by Nixie tubes, provides pretty much all the timing information you could want, and plenty you didn’t know you needed, all in a very Urwerk way. What we have here is a glass blade that stands 1.7 meters tall and weighs 20 kilograms. It’s an imposing, large object, made up of a total of 1,446 components. It stands on a large bronze crown that’s been polished and buffed to Urwerk’s preferred level of patina, and provides a base to a large glass dome that protects a series of vertically aligned Nixie bulbs, eight in total. Each bulb contains a total of ten steel cathodes that allow it to illuminate any digit, 0 through 9. The glass is blown by hand and the electrical elements are meticulously assembled by hand as well, using tweezers, in each of the bulbs. According to Urwerk, each bulb consists of 88 parts. Once the blade is assembled and the whole thing is turned on, it’s capable of displaying a variety of information via the Nixie bulbs. The Spacetime Blade has several different modes, and can read the time in hours, minutes, and ...
SJX Watches
Founded last year by a pair of Frenchmen, entrepreneur Guillaume Laidet and independent watchmaker Theo Auffret, SpaceOne fashions itself as a maker of modular complications assembled in Paris that are make accessible thanks to Swiss movements and external components sourced elsewhere. Its second creation, the Tellurium, is an affordable – but heavily simplified – heliocentric tellurium watch priced at just €2,999, or about US$3,250. Initial thoughts A tellurium is a kind of orrery, a mechanical model of the solar system, which shows the planets’ positions relative to the Sun. Traditional orrery are kinetic sculptures driven by complex gearings and usually large format, desk clock size or larger. The Richard Mille Planetarium-Tellurium of 2007, for instance, was the size of a small table. There have been wristwatch-size versions of orrery, most famously Ulysse Nardin’s pair of the Tellurium Johannes Kepler and Planetarium Copernicus, which were faithful miniaturisation of orreries and conceived with scientific accuracy in mind but were priced accordingly. The SpaceOne Tellurium is a heavily diluted of the same. It shows only the Sun, Earth and Moon, each with minimal motion. The Earth, for instance, does not rotate on its own axis. Rather than being a miniaturised true orrery, this is an heavily simplified representation presented with sci-fi style. This simplified approach brings with it the inconvenience of a non quickset calendar. So setting the calendar from...
Monochrome
The H. Moser & Cie. Concept series, distinguished by the sheer elegance of minimalistic yet very elaborately finished dials, expands to include a watch in a sporty Pioneer case. The result is beautifully controversial, perhaps as intended by the brand, for the athletic, almost brutal, and adventure-ready case gets paired with a very funky-coloured dial. […]
Monochrome
HYT Watches burst onto the independent watchmaking scene in 2012 with a captivating concept, a truly unique vision and an idea that somehow was antinomic of a mechanical watch; displaying time with fluids. To achieve this, the brand imagined a high-tech micro-fluidic module driven by a mechanical movement. The idea is to use two immiscible […]
Quill & Pad
Arnold & Son likes to walk to its own beat. For their latest watch, the Longitude, the opposite is the case. It's a sports watch with an integrated bracelet, and yes, it even comes with a green dial.
Worn & Wound
May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! May is around the corner, and with it, a fresh set of grads ready to take on the world. A thoughtful graduation gift can be a particularly memorable token, and what better way to celebrate than with a special watch or accessory? In this Chronicle, we consider five fantastic gifts that a graduate would be thrilled to receive. As always, the Windup Watch Shop Team is available for consultations and to answer any questions you have. Congrats grads! The post Five Great Gifts for New Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
It is often warned, within the watch enthusiast community, that pre-owned (especially bordering on vintage) watch collecting is a monster all its own - sitting at the end of booby-trapped temple, with spring-loaded spike walls and perilous pits waiting to consume another person tempted by the pretty shiny things inside. And yet, occasionally you manage to traverse the ledge, dodge the poison barbs, and slide under the closing stone door, grabbing your fedora in the nick of time. Sometimes things just go right, but giving yourself the space to be vigilant always helps. Does anyone else hear a John Williams score in their head? Just me? Like many a watch collector before me, I’ve been yearning for an Omega Speedmaster since I first found out about its heroic travels. It went to the moon, I believe. I dunno, you’ll have to double check me on that. Anyway, I would take almost weekly trips to the AD just to try it on. Each visit went the same way. I’d approach the Omega counter, point to the Speedmaster Professional, and say “you know which one.” Sapphire sandwich because I love marveling at the movement. My AD would stand there while I carefully inspected it. As I did the week before, and the one before that. I’d tell him, “you can go help the guy over there if you need to,” knowing damn well he can’t leave me alone with the watch, but it made me feel better to say it to establish that I am, yet again, not ready to buy it. We’d chitchat, I’d leave, and ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Since it hit the market less than a decade ago, the Rado Captain Cook has rapidly built an avid following among watch enthusiasts while also casting a brighter spotlight on its parent brand, which had previously been known more for avant-garde, fashion-oriented timepieces than vintage-look, sport-focused ones. Eyeing one of these retro-stylish and accessibly priced divers as your next watch purchase? Here is what you need to know about the Rado Captain Cook collection. The Brand Behind the Captain: Rado History Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements but eventually found success as a watch producer in 1957 with the launch of the Rado brand (the name means “wheel” in Esperanto) and its first timepiece, the Rado Golden Horse, one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. The company followed it up in 1962 with the futuristic DiaStar model (below) - touted as “the world’s first scratch-proof watch” and recognized as the first commercially available “ceramic watch” - which was groundbreaking in its use of hardmetal and sapphire glass for increased scratch-resistance. The DiaStar ushered in Rado’s modern credo of exploring the most avant-garde, high-tech materials for ideal comfort and durability in its wat...
Fratello
Doxa is an absolute fan favorite, so when a new release comes to light, it’s bound to make waves. The Sub 200T is an all-new model, but there’s no mistaking it for anything else but a Doxa. This watch should be a big hit for the brand with its smaller size and incredible number of […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm Doxa Sub 200T to read the full article.
Monochrome
MB&F;, or Max Büsser & Friends, is an indie brand that thrives on the creative input of its friends. Pooling together different talents, Max Büsser has produced some extraordinary mechanical and artistic collaborations. While most watch fans get a kick out of MB&F;’s creations and collaborations, very few of us can afford them. To remedy […]
SJX Watches
The first limited edition from MB&F;’s affordable sub-brand is the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love”, created in collaboration with French fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, also known as JC/DC. A variant of the standard model endowed with Mr de Castelbajac’s touch – including numerals in his handwriting – the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” is a 999-piece edition that will be sold via an online raffle. A designer whose heyday in the 1970s and 1980s saw him collaborate with brands like from Swatch and design a coat made of teddy bears for Madonna, Mr de Castelbajac was most recently artistic director for Benetton. The M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” reflects his trademark colourful and whimsical style. Initial thoughts Conceptually and aesthetically, the M.A.D.1 “Time to Love” makes sense. Mr de Castelbajac’s style complements M.A.D. Editions’s affordable, fun brand of watchmaking, making this the most interesting M.A.D.1 edition to date. The fact that it’s a relatively small run of 999 pieces and priced almost the same as the regular version enhances the appeal. More broadly, the collaboration also chimes with parent brand MB&F;’s retro-nostalgia philosophy, where many of its creations are inspired by founder Maximilian Büsser’s youth. According to the brand, “the young Maximilian Büsser was a huge fan, saving up his pocket money for one of the designer’s bathing suits featuring pandas on it”, when Mr de Castelbajac’s brand was at its peak in the ...
Fratello
I am always happy to try a new Zenith watch, especially when it’s made of precious materials. And that’s precisely what this Chronomaster Sport is about, boasting a rose gold case, a spinel-, diamond-, and sapphire-set bezel, and a gold meteorite dial with diamonds. Chronomaster Sport 22.3100.3600/69.M3100 This Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 18K rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...
Fratello
It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
SJX Watches
London-based Bamford Watch Department’s latest is the B80 Limited Edition, a collaboration with Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam. In keeping with Bamford’s vintage-with-a-twist house style, the B80 boasts a “ghost” dial with a gradient finish and numerals inspired by historical military watches. The 39 mm titanium case has a black finished that’s been treated to appear aged. Initial Thoughts There is something about all-black watches that makes them cool. Part of it is the no-nonsense, military-instrument look they evoke. Black-coated watches, at least most of them, suffer from a major drawback - coatings wear off in time, resulting in a worn look that is more often than not unappealing. But here the wear has been done in advance for a fuss-free watch. According to the duo behind the B80, this is a “tool” watch conceived according to the notion “if [the watch is] too perfect, fix it”. Bamford, a company that got its start by modifying Rolex watches, often with vintage inspired styling and black-coated cases, is perhaps poking fun at its roots with the worn-out PVD finish of the B80. Even the dial features a “smoked” patina along with hands and indices with aged lume, thereby creating a “vintage” watch. But as with most Bamford watches – the brand now mostly makes original watches under its own name – the B80 is affordable and imbued with a spirit of fun. The back, for instance, is engraved with “You’re Ace”, and the watch is delivered with a...
Hodinkee
Watching Movies turns three today, and so of course our watch-related movie of the week is a Redford film.
Hodinkee
Watches that are so much more than just divers, from a Blancpain Bathyscaphe to a Seiko Prospex GMT.
Monochrome
The Purity collection was introduced in 2021 to express Yvan Arpa, Founder of ArtyA’s vision of transparency. Since then has included tourbillon models only, very different and even restrained in presentation from what one would expect with knowledge of ArtyA’s previous creative series; that one was a classic-looking watch. Indeed, the Purity collection is all […]
Fratello
The reality is that there are loads of choices for watches under the magic €1,000 threshold. Choosing the so-called “best” watches, however, is a challenge. It all depends on whether the watch will supplement a collection as a daily beater or perhaps be the first nicer watch for the buyer. I’ve chosen three very different […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Mike’s Picks From Brew, Certina, And Baltic to read the full article.
SJX Watches
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...
Revolution
Gerald Charles, an independent Swiss watch company founded in 2000 by the renowned Mr. Gérald Charles Genta, the most prolific watch designer of the 20th century, is currently under the stewardship of the Ziviani family, close family friends of the Gerald Genta. Known as the ‘Maestro’, Monsieur Genta was not only a prolific artist but […]
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week we go heavy on the watches by highlighting the hot Formex Essence Sector made in partnership with Worn & Wound. For the retro-inclined, we appreciate the timelessness of a mid-century Rolex Oyster Perpetual date and the whimsy of the new Timex Ironman collab with The James Brand. Pioneer Carry and Seiko round things out with special gear and new stopwatches. Let’s get right into it! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great ...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com Springsteen Comes to the Big Screen From The Bear, to the Boss. News broke this week that Jeremy Allen White, who has shot to stardom for his role as the chef Carmie in The Bear, is in talks to play Bruce Springsteen in a film about the making of Nebraska, his stripped down, acoustic album released in 1982. Various movie projects covering Springsteen’s life and career have been floated for years, but this time a star being attached to the project along with a director (Scott Cooper) has Hollywood buzzing that this one could take off. Read more at Pitchfork here. The Kinds of Kindness Trailer OK, this is how you cut a trailer. Hot on the heels of Poor Things, filmmaker Yorgos Lanthimos and Emma Stone are back later this year with a follow up: Kinds of Kindness. What’s it about? We have no idea, but the stylish trailer set to “Sweet Dreams” and featuring glimpses of each member of the all star cast (including Willem Dafoe and Margaret Qualley, also featured in Poor Things) is evocative enough to have us pretty excited to see what Lanthimos has cooked up. Trailers too often giv...
Quill & Pad
When someone says “I’m no prude,” it is pretty easy to imagine what typically comes next: a prudish commentary on some aspect of modern society or youth culture. GaryG likes sex. There we go! To the point and leaves no doubt as to intent. That said, he typically tries to keep his interests in sex and watches somewhat distinct. But has the watch industry at large done that, now and in the past?
Fratello
When looking at last year’s turnover numbers, Longines is the #7 luxury watch brand in the world. You all know who’s leading the pack, but did you know that Longines, with a turnover of CHF 1.11 billion, is in between Haute Horlogerie houses Richard Mille in the #6 spot and Vacheron Constantin in the #8 […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Longines: Strength And Weakness In Numbers to read the full article.
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