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Fratello
We’re back with another set of releases from Watches and Wonders 2025. We’re here to fill you in if you missed these in all the coverage you’ve read. The new Eberhard Contodat watches are straight out of the ’70s, yet they’re anything but kitschy. These were some of my favorite novelties. Eberhard is a plucky […] Visit Checking Out The New Eberhard Contodat Collection to read the full article.
![Ulysse Nardin Introduces the World’s Lightest Mechanical Dive Watch, the Dive [Air]](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/UN-Dive-Air-55.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin once again entered Watches & Wonders with only one watch. I like this strategy, as it allows a brand to really focus on storytelling and helping the press, retailers, and other guests understand what their new novelty is all about. Many Watches & Wonders meetings can feel a bit rushed as tray after tray of watches is passed around and given a full explanation. But Ulysse Nardin, by comparison, is a leisurely experience, and the information really sticks. I always come away from their big spring novelty impressed, and this year, with the debut of the new Dive [Air] was no exception. The Dive [Air] sees Ulysse Nardin at their most experimental, pursuing the type of ultralight watchmaking that has driven brands like Richard Mille (the obvious point of comparison) over the past decade. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Dive [Air] is the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch, with a case that tips the scales at just 46 grams (with the elastic strap, the watch weighs 52 grams). I’m sure the Ulysse Nardin team had fun all week handing the watch over to people like me and watching their faces as the weight (or, lack thereof) sunk in. To be clear, 52 grams is disconcertingly light. It’s the type of light that makes you believe your mind is playing a trick on you, or that the watch might be a fake, some plastic, Happy Meal toy. But it’s not, of course, a toy. It’s a 44mm diver that sees Ulysse Nardin pushing their own technical limits, and coming up with ing...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve ever attended Watches & Wonders (or any watch event, Windup Watch Fairs included) you’re probably familiar with the period of reflection that happens right after. It usually involves opening up the Photos app on your phone and scrolling through all the wrist shots you took. As you do this, thoughts about what you’ve just experienced fall into place, and the power of memory that watches are so adept at exploiting has its first and earliest chance to take hold. This year, waiting for my flight back to Boston to board, cycling through the many, many photos on my memory card and camera roll, I began to wonder if Parmigiani Fleurier had possibly “won” Watches & Wonders for me this year. By “winning” Watches & Wonders I don’t necessarily mean that they had the best watch (although they have one that’s in the running, for sure) but rather, as a brand, that they left the deepest impression on me. This was a somewhat surprising revelation, as, if I’m being honest, Parmigiani has frequently felt like the brand that I just didn’t quite get. Many of my peers in the watch media space gush about Parmigiani the way I advocate for Prometheus, a movie I firmly believe is an all-time classic but many insist is a major Ridley Scott misstep. I’ve always felt like I’m on the outside with Parmigiani. I kind of prefer the old design of the Tonda. The GMT Rattrapante is more clever than practical. And the sporty chronographs, to my eyes and on my wrist, lack ...
Monochrome
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2025, the 1816 Chronograph blends a modern integrated bracelet design with more traditional elements drawn from Louis Moinet‘s classic repertoire, in particular from the fascinating and remarkable Compteur de Tierces, one of the precursors of the modern chronograph. Powered by an appealing, traditional hand-wound chronograph movement, this new Louis Moinet […]
Fratello
While my colleagues and most of the industry have been in Geneva, enjoying Watches and Wonders and devouring the sights and sounds of the year’s biggest trade fair, I have been watching on from home this year. I welcomed my firstborn son into the world and moved house less than two weeks later (apparently, I […] Visit Trump’s New Tariffs Rock The Swiss Watch Industry to read the full article.
Monochrome
This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s emblematic Reverso, a timeless timepiece dating back to 1931 – as we explained in this in-depth article – will have its moment. Indeed, the brand is focusing entirely on its icon, and with some handsome new releases. In 2023, the slimmer pink gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small […]
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Introduces the Tentagraph “Tokyo Lion”](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/04/GS_WW_Tentagraph_030.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When the Tentagraph was introduced at Watches & Wonders a few years ago, it was, in its way, a pretty radical idea. Grand Seiko, somewhat surprisingly, had never developed a mechanical chronograph to that point, and the high frequency movement at work in the Tentagraph was and is a significant accomplishment. For Watches & Wonders 2025, Grand Seiko has introduced a new spin on the Tentagraph that is perhaps as equally radical as the introduction of the first Tentagraph in 2023. The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph (reference SLGC009) puts the Tentagraph into a new context entirely, using what might be Grand Seiko’s most avant-garde and aggressive case shape. The “Lion” chronographs, which have previously only existed with Spring Drive movements, are characterized by a 43mm titanium case with around 40 facets. That, folks, is a lot of facets, and with the Grand Seiko’s zaratsu polishing applied liberally throughout, it’s one of the most dynamic and intriguing cases in their catalog. It’s also, of course, not for everyone. The severe case lines might be a bit of an acquired taste, and the whole thing has an almost M.C. Escher-like quality about it. As someone who personally struggled with geometry in middle school, this case, when I first saw it, gave me no shortage of anxiety. Over the years though, as I’ve had more experience handling these complex cases, my appreciation has grown, and the Tokyo Lion Tentagraph jumped out to me as one of the more special release...
Fratello
There are always surprises at the major watch shows. This year, one of the unexpected releases was the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof, a recreation of a manual-wind ’60s watch. The size and some other touches are true to the original. The big names dominate the scene at a show like Watches and Wonders. We spend hours […] Visit Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof to read the full article.
Monochrome
Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary this year, a milestone that calls for a look back at its remarkable journey. While the brand’s history may not be long, it is undeniably rich and eventful. Today, however, the focus is on the latest revelation at Watches and Wonders Geneva: the Excalibur Grande Complication. This new timepiece […]
SJX Watches
Rolex had a little bit of everything at Watches & Wonders 2025, from the top-of-the-line GMT-Master II to the unexpected, retro-style Settimo bracelet for the Perpetual 1908. But the most accessible offerings are the entry-level Oyster Perpetual 28, 36, and 41 in pastel shades of lavender, beige, and pistachio – all in a matte finish in a first for the current Rolex line-up. Past versions of the Oyster Perpetual have featured dials with surfaces that were either glossy lacquered or metallic brushed, making the new iterations subtly distinct. The 28 mm model with a lavender dial Initial thoughts Like the left-handed GMT-Master II also launched at W&W;, the Oyster Perpetual trio are incremental improvements to existing models, but done well and priced reasonably (even if availability will be challenging). The matte dials in pastel colours give the Oyster Perpetual a more modern feel, which is a notable for a model that is several decades old and largely unchanged in terms of style. As is the norm at Rolex, a new feature – the matte finish in this case – is being released on a limited basis to start with, but I expect matte-finish dials to be found in more models over time. 41 mm with a pistachio green dial Being the entry-level model for Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual is priced modestly, with the most expensive model being the largest, 41 mm version priced at US$6,650. It represents solid value, though obtaining one, at least initial, will be difficult as these will be bes...
Fratello
At times, it’s hard to keep up with all the new releases during Watches and Wonders. A good example is the stream of great ones from Patek Philippe. The brand unveiled a total of 15 new references this week that all deserve our attention. But where do you start? One glance made that very clear […] Visit Patek Philippe Introduces The Reference 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph In Rose Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
Not all introduction articles around Watches and Wonders 2025 need to be overly complicated. This will be a particularly simple one. Would you like to be done and dusted in a single sentence? Fine! Parmigiani released a green version of the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. That’s it! You can jump to the next article to […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca to read the full article.
Fratello
Grand Seiko introduced a wide variety of novelties at Watches and Wonders this year. The new U.F.A. models are, without a doubt, the most important ones. However, a humble highlight that also stands out for us is the new Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323. This new addition to the Heritage collection combines a modestly sized 36.5mm 44GS-style […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko “Kiri” SBGW323 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s deja vu all over again for IWC. Two years ago at Watches & Wonders, the brand debuted, at long last, and after a great deal of anticipation and speculation, a new version of the Ingenieur. The new Ingenieur was effectively the sole focus of the brand’s Watches & Wonders output in 2023 – a fact that underscored the importance of the release for the brand. It was met, at the show, with quite a bit of acclaim. To put it on your wrist and to see and feel the finishing of the case and bracelet in person revealed a watch that was designed to compete with the likes of the Royal Oak and Overseas. Ambitious, perhaps, but not crazy. That said, IWC (and the rest of the watch community) have always known that if the brand was going to offer a true lower priced alternative to those integrated bracelet sports watches, they’d need to fill out the collection with some additional options. And that’s exactly what IWC has done at this year’s Watches & Wonders, dropping a dizzying array of new Ingenieurs in new materials, sizes, and with new complications. Here we’ll focus on some of the obvious standouts. First, an Ingenieur that has always seemed like one that was missing from the collection: a variant in full ceramic. The Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic is exactly what it says on the proverbial tin. This is a slightly larger version of the Ingenieur released a few years back with a modern 42mm case, but much of that increased size is hidden by the deep black to...
Deployant
Parmigiani Fleurier returns with the stunning new Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca, unveiled at the highly anticipated Watches and Wonders 2025!
Fratello
In 2024, Piaget celebrated the 45th anniversary of Yves Piaget’s Polo watch by introducing a re-edition, the Polo 79, in full yellow gold. It came out in February of last year, and RJ dared to say that probably nothing at Watches and Wonders 2024 would trump it. We all know RJ is very much into […] Visit Hot Take: The Piaget Polo 79 Looks Even Better In White Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
If you are on the hunt for a humble, under-the-radar, slow-release charmer of a watch, feel free to skip this article. Zenith gets all up in our faces at this year’s Watches and Wonders with a 160th-anniversary trio of blue ceramic chronographs. Subtle blue? Nope, not quite. Say what you will, but at least this […] Visit Catching The Blues With A New Trio Of Zenith Blue Ceramic Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to go big with its Reverso collection once more. Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced this watch meant for polo players nearly a century ago. Today, however, watch enthusiasts and collectors consider the Reverso a dress watch more than anything else. With the latest Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in full pink gold […] Visit Hands-On: The New Pink Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.
Monochrome
Alpina celebrated the brand´s 140th anniversary in 2023 by launching a new Heritage collection. Until now, the collection comprised the round-shaped Automatic, the Carrée Automatic, the Diver 300 Heritage model, and a funky Startimer Pilot with bumper movement. This year for Watches and Wonders, Alpina added a manually wound model to the line-up, a compact, […]
Worn & Wound
In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details. Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...
Worn & Wound
Tudor returns to the Black Bay 58 in a major way at this year’s Watches & Wonders, with an update inspired by a 1990s prototype that had been nearly lost to time. The latest 58 comes in a bold burgundy colorway, with a bright red dial and matching bezel. It’s a decidedly different approach to the Black Bay 58, which has been, in our minds, a thoughtful reinterpretation of an old fashioned tool watch. This new version is significantly more extroverted in its personality and appearance – it has considerably more flash than your standard issue 58. The broad strokes of this Black Bay 58 are effectively in line with earlier versions of the watch. It maintains the 39mm case with the same mix of brushed and polished finishing. Circular and rectangular hour markers are generously filled with luminous material, and of course we have the “Snowflake” handset that is common to all Black Bays. But there are a number of small refinements and improvements to this 58 make it feel a bit more contemporaneous with other recent Tudor releases. First, bracelet selection. For the first time, the Black Bay is available on a five-link, Jubilee-style bracelet. It’s a natural fit for a watch like the 58 and immediately gives it a look that is a bit dressier and less tool oriented. It’s still available on a three-link bracelet as well, but this bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp (as is the five-link, and the optional rubber strap). Like the Black Bay 68 we covered ea...
Worn & Wound
Last year, I had the privilege of sitting down with Benoit de Clerck to talk about all things Zenith. At the time, Benoit was just a few short months into his tenure as CEO of Zenith, and Watches & Wonders was only barely in the rearview, but de Clerck made it very clear that he was already looking ahead, not just generally, but towards something very specific, and very exciting. “I’m working hard on something new next year, which - obviously - I like, because it’s very unique, and we’re producing very small quantities and all that. And, I can’t tell you much more, but next year we’re celebrating our 160th year and we will come up with something that the collectors will be very, very, very happy with.” Well, now, nearly a year later, we know what that “something new” is, and de Clerck was absolutely right - because it is something to be very, very happy with. I’m talking, of course, about the new Zenith G.F.J. G.F.J., in this case, stands for Georges Favre-Jacot, the name of the man who founded Zenith some 160 years ago, but it might as well stand for ‘Great F***ing Job’ because Zenith has knocked it out of the park with this one. At the heart of the G.F.J. is a revived version of the calibre 135, a historically significant and long-dormant movement, designed by Ephrem Jobin in the years after World War II and produced from 1949 to 1962. The Calibre 135 was widely used by Zenith at that time, but especially prized is the 135-O variant created...
Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces a series of Reverso timepieces at Watches and Wonders 2025 that are sure to pull the heartstrings of any Reverso lover.
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GS_WW_UFA_021WR.jpg)
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
For many years, the only two Nomos models that offered traveler-oriented functions were the Zurich Weltzeit (a.k.a Zurich Worldtimer) and the Tangomat GMT, which had airport codes to denote the 24 time zones. This year at Watches and Wonders, the Glashütte-based brand presents a new movement to power its Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer series, which […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1, a tribute to the brand’s storied Formula 1 history. This striking timepiece features a white ceramic case that dispenses with a traditional metallic inner container in a departure from technical norms in construction. A red translucent dial reveal the mechanics below, while the chronograph counters - finished with an asphalt-like texture,white and yellow grid markings, and official F1 typography - proudly display British F1 commentator David Croft’s famous phrase: “Lights Out & Away We Go.” Initial thoughts At first glance, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 may appear to be just another Formula 1–inspired watch. However, a closer look reveals the subtle yet distinctive details that set it apart from its competitors. Rather than relying on overt F1 motifs, it integrates refined elements-such as the checkered-flag pattern-that showcase its superb craftsmanship and elevate it above other racing-inspired chronographs. Priced at CHF155,000, the Monaco may initially appear costly, particularly given TAG Heuer’s history of being more accessible. Yet, beyond the brand’s heritage lies a timepiece whose exceptional craftsmanship more than warrants its price tag. It is a Vaucher-powered rattrapante chronograph, and this version is unquestionably the most appealing of the iterations to date. And the Formula 1–inspired touches are thoughtfully integrated, an...
Fratello
In a surprise twist, Tudor goes bigger and bolder in 2025. A completely new introduction at this year’s Watches and Wonders is the 43mm Tudor Black Bay 68. This addition to the brand’s extensive Black Bay lineup gets its name from the year that Tudor came up with the famous Snowflake hand. The brand introduces […] Visit Tudor Adds The Larger Black Bay 68 To Its Extensive Black Bay Lineup to read the full article.
Fratello
This year marks the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin. The Genevan brand is one of the world’s foremost luxury horology houses, leading to high expectations for 2025. In January, we were treated to the stunning stainless steel Historiques 222. During Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin unveils its next horological highlight. The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.
Monochrome
We are undoubtedly in a golden age of the ultra-thin watch, with records continuously being shattered and timepieces at a level of thinness that would have been almost unimaginable just a few years ago… At Watches and Wonders 2024, Piaget clinched the record for the thinnest tourbillon ever with its Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, measuring a […]
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