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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.
Hands-On with the Vario Versa Worn & Wound
Jan 18, 2023

Hands-On with the Vario Versa

Vario is a Singapore-based watch brand founded in 2016. Over the years, they have launched several watches with varying aesthetics though mostly drawing on historical watches as inspiration, such as their rugged 1918 Trench model. Their most recent model, the Versa, also pulls from the past, taking its inspirations from the Streamline/Art Deco era, but mixes in a reversible design for a watch that is both dual-time and dual-faced. A first, to our recollection, in the micro-brand space, the Versa is a surprising release that manages to be clever, while also quite affordable. Apart from the functionality, the Versa is also a rare, small-scale rectangular dress offering from a micro brand. Launched in three versions, the Versa is $428 and powered by not one, but two quartz calibers. For this hands-on, we’ll be taking a look at the blue variety. $428 Hands-On with the Vario Versa Case Stainless Steel Movement 2 x Ronda Slimtech 1062 Dial Silver/Blue Lume NA Lens 2 x Flat Sapphire Strap Black Leather Water Resistance 5 ATM Dimensions 26 x 40mm Thickness 18mm Lug Width 20mm Crown 2 x Push-pull Warranty Yes Price $428 Notable Specs and Features The Versa is a watch defined by a novel and enjoyable feature: it’s essentially two watches in one. The watch head consists of two main components, a frame, and a watch module. The module is created with two slim, small quartz watches mounted back to back, dials facing out, and crowns at twelve. The module is attached to the frame via ...

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Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022 Time+Tide
Jan 18, 2023

Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022

Recently, Robb Report listed the 20 most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022. Overall, there was more than $600 million in sales between the top three auction houses (Sotheby’s, Christie’s and Phillips), with these 20 pieces alone accounting for more than $50 million of that total. And though these numbers are quite impressive, there … ContinuedThe post Three takeaways from the most expensive watches sold at auction in 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Unusual Suspects – The Daniel Roth Masters Chronograph is a masterful piece by a legendary watchmaker for under $10,000 Time+Tide
Daniel Roth Jan 18, 2023

The Unusual Suspects – The Daniel Roth Masters Chronograph is a masterful piece by a legendary watchmaker for under $10,000

High-end, independent watchmaking has become difficult to come by in recent times, as many have begun to realise that paying huge mark-ups on mass-produced watches isn’t that cool. The problem is, however, that even when you do discover a niche independent that produces something that you like, it’s increasingly common that they already have a … ContinuedThe post The Unusual Suspects – The Daniel Roth Masters Chronograph is a masterful piece by a legendary watchmaker for under $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Cartier (Re)Introduces the Tank Francaise SJX Watches
Cartier Re)Introduces Jan 17, 2023

Cartier (Re)Introduces the Tank Francaise

Cartier’s approach to new products is often simply to deftly reboot a bestseller after a few years or even decades. That formula was applied with great acclaim to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont (though the Pasha revival didn’t quite meet with the same commercial success). Now Cartier is doing it for the Tank Francaise. First introduced in 1996 as the first Tank with an integrated bracelet, the Tank Francaise was a major seller for Cartier in the decade that followed. Though the model survived well into the 21st century, it remained essentially unchanged since its launch. Though visually similar to the original, new Tank Francaise is an entirely new watch, having undergone a major facelift that preserved the original outline while refining all the details. The large model in steel with an automatic movement Initial thoughts Like many of Cartier’s other entry-level models, the Tank Francaise is an appealing design at a relatively affordable price. The large automatic model in steel, for instance, retails for under US$6,000. It demonstrates how Cartier does best when it does little. The new design remains easily recognisable, even though every aspect has been revamped, ranging from the applied sticker numerals to the recessed crown. If you liked the original, you’ll probably like this one. The biggest drawback of the new Tank Francaise is simply that most of the line up is quartz, which will disappoint aficionados of mechanical watches. In fact, only one version, th...

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On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Wild & Two Jan 17, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, we take a look at three watches that bring three distinct flavors to the table, and all manage to make a compelling case in their own way. We start with something entirely new and slightly unexpected from a brand called Lorca, who have designed an elegant take on the GMT that would feel as at home in a cocktail bar as it would in the field. Next is a new GMT from Nodus, offering plenty of style and function for the money, it’s the Sector GMT. Finally, we have the Norqain Wild One, featuring Norqain’s new material, Norteq. We have a deeper look at all three watches coming soon, but until then you can see our initial reactions in the video below. You can see Zach Kazan’s introduction of the Norqain Wild One, including thoughts from Jean-Claude Biver, live from Switzerland right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Why I Love It: The Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Year Watches, Plus a Brief Survey of “Year of the Rabbit” Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Jan 17, 2023

Why I Love It: The Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Year Watches, Plus a Brief Survey of “Year of the Rabbit” Limited Editions

January 22 of this year marks the Lunar New Year, which is a massively important celebration across many east Asian countries. For as long as I’ve been interested in watches, we’ve seen many large brands release a selection of limited edition watches tied to the Lunar New Year celebration, often exclusively for the Chinese market. The occasion is a natural fit for a limited edition watch on a number of fronts. First, it reinforces the importance of the Chinese and east Asian market to high end, global, luxury watch brands. And it also offers these brands an opportunity to produce watches that are extravagant while also being somewhat playful. Lunar New Year watches are almost tied to the Chinese Zodiac, so as we close in on the year of the rabbit, don’t be surprised if watches fit for Bugs Bunny start to take over your Instagram feed.  This year, among a handful of Lunar New Year watches, one that stands out for its sheer opulence is a new release from Vacheron Constantin, through their Metiers d’Art line. The Metiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Rabbit (a mouthful of a name) finds a rabbit sitting in the center of a dial that displays the time, day, and date within a series of four separate apertures. The rabbit here is very much center stage, which is the whole point of Metiers d’Art watches.  While handcraft and exceptional finishing are foundational to the Vacheron Constantin story, the Metiers d’Art watches are laser focused on de...

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Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch SJX Watches
Hermes would remove Jan 17, 2023

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch

Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...

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Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065 Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Jan 16, 2023

Seiko Introduces Astrolabe Inspired Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Re-interpretation SLA065

The new Seiko Prospex Save the Ocean Limited Edition 1965 Modern Reinterpretation, or better known as the SLA065, is an addition to a long line of limited edition Prospex watches that have served as a platform for the brand to support various marine conservation programs. It’s a watch that houses multiple intersections of Seiko design and various historical instruments embodying the spirit of exploration during a point in time when what was beyond the horizon, and below the ocean’s surface, was virtually unknown. While resting on the shoulders of the 62MAS, Seiko continues the lineage of the archetypal diver through the SLA065, while simultaneously paying tribute to a time keeping device that predates the wrist watch. The overlapping circle design on the dial is inspired by a 6th century scientific instrument known as an astrolabe. Used for tracking time and astronomical observation, the astrolabe in its infancy was used to track the sun and other prominent stars in relation to the horizon (latitude) and the meridian (longitude). Naturally this information would prove useful for those navigating the seas, and so the astrolabe was modified to be sturdier and more aerodynamic by cutting some of the disc components away. Using a set of pin holes, a pivoting ruler, and a scale on the outer portion of the instrument, a seafarer would be able to determine their latitude, the height of the sun, as well as the time. As one prominent adventurer once put it, the distance you’v...

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INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 Jan 16, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn

Seiko’s attempt to clean up their back catalogue and simplify their product lines may have backfired as soon as they flooded the world with new releases across varying price points, but the Seiko Presage range has continued to be reliably impressive, housing some of the brand’s top finishing and movements. Even within that realm of quality, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SPB361 & SPB363 take inspiration from the break of dawn appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

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VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise Quill & Pad
Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Jan 15, 2023

Diving With The Ball Watch Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer – Repise

When Ball Watch asked Dietmar Fuchs to test dive one of the company’s newest watches, the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer, he hesitated at first. Ball didn’t jingle a diving bell for him, but something else from its history jangled: a brand’s “history” section is always the first thing he checks before testing a watch and he discovered Ball Watch has the credentials. So he dove in and now shares his experience and thoughts on the watch here.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps

Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...

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[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay Retrospective Jan 13, 2023

[VIDEO] Tudor Black Bay Retrospective, A Watch The Launched An Era

Much has been said about the Tudor Black Bay, here and elsewhere, and it’s ushering in of a new era of heritage inspired watches that’s taken hold throughout the industry. The Black Bay family has grown to include a broad range of watches, from GMTs and chronographs, to two-toned 36mm field watches, but the charm of the classic divers remains as strong today as when they were first released more than 10 years ago. Most of us here, and presumably many of you reading, have seen a Black Bay or two come through our collection at some point over the years, and each year we hold out hope for a particular spec or version of the watch we’d like to see released. It’s just had that kind of an effect on enthusiasts.  As luck would have it, we recently found ourselves with an abundance of Black Bay watches in the office, so we took the opportunity to get them together and discuss the impact it’s had on each of us over the years. Below find a selection of our Black Bay reviews that we’ve published, including some of our favorites like the Black Bay 58, the Black Bay Pro, and the Steel & Gold Chrono. How has the Black Bay impacted your collecting? Which examples have you owned or do you hope to own? Let us know in the comments and be sure to share your ideal Black Bay that you’d love to see Tudor release this year. Hands-On with the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue The Black Bay 58 in blue was a bright spot in an otherwise tumultuous 2020. This was the second version...

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The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Jan 13, 2023

The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating

This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Reinterpreting classic watches in a modern package is something TAG probably doesn’t get enough credit for, but if you really want to feel like you’re wearing a vintage watch made with meticulous care, there are few brands doing it better than TAG right now.  TAG Heuer is positioning this new release as a watch for the serious collector. It’s limited to 600 units, and the brand is well aware of the high profile of the 2447 SN. Back in early 2020, TAG celebrated the 160th anniversary of the brand with the similarly positioned 160 Years Silver Limited Edition, a recreation of the all silver 2447 S. That was a hugely popular release at the time, but you can imagine collectors grumbling about a preference for the more dynamic panda dial of the 2447 SN. Now it seems likely that TAG was wisely saving the SN for the Carrera’s big 60th birthday party, and we can see the full picture of their strategy take shape.  It’s hard to find something new to say about a watch like the Carrera. Do...

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The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jan 13, 2023

The 5 best high complication watches of 2022

It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Jan 13, 2023

The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is Now Open

An annual award that seeks to recognise and support promising watchmakers, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is open for submissions until February 1, 2023. The entry criteria is straightforward: watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from any country who have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”, but professional qualifications or training are not necessary. The prize is a CHF20,000 grant meant to finance tools or a watchmaking project. The contest will be judged by a panel including Francois-Paul Journe himself and Giulio Papi, who will select the winner based on originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on Fpjourne.com from now until February 1, 2023.  

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