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Results for Automatic Winding

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Automatic Winding

Self-winding via rotor: Perrelet 1777, Harwood 1922, Rolex Perpetual 1931, micro-rotor 1955.
Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 96 Calatrava Oct 8, 2021

Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor

A French brand that specialises in affordable, vintage-inspired watches, Baltic is back with another affordable, vintage-inspired watch. Evidently modelled on gentlemen’s watches of the 1930s, notably the Patek Philippe ref. 96 Calatrava, the MR01 is the brand’s first dress watch. Compact at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is also thin at under 10 mm thanks to the micro-rotor automatic movement within, which is also the reason behind the unusually positioned seconds at seven o’clock. Initial thoughts Baltic has consistently released vintage-inspired watches that are the right combination of design, details, and affordability, which is exactly what the MR01 is all about. It has an aesthetic that instantly brings to mind the Patek Philippe ref. 96, accented with overtly vintage details like the applied numerals and stepped bezel. But its most novel aspect is arguably the movement, which has a micro-rotor, an uncommon feature in watches at this price point, for now. The fit and finish of Baltic’s offerings is good considering the price, which is an affordable US$600 or so for the MR01. That’s possible due to the fact that most of the watch is assembled using components made by Chinese suppliers. Chinese watchmakers themselves produce watches of comparable quality for less money, but most have yet to offer the design and eye for details that Baltic possesses. And that is why Baltic’s watches are value propositions that enjoy with commercial success. Effectively vi...

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Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith unveiled Sep 30, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph

Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...

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VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? Time+Tide
Seiko unleashes Sep 29, 2021

VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick?

The next chapter in the Seiko Prospex “Black Series” has arrived.  Inspired by the world of night diving, the brand has taken the plunge with three new blacked out watches the SRPH11K (Samurai), the SNE577P (Tuna) and the SRPH13K (Monster). The “Black Series” concept first dropped in 2018 with two Solar models and an automatic Turtle, the SRPC49. The … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko unleashes a Black-Ops style Tuna, Monster & Samurai, all sub $650USD. Which do you pick? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305 Time+Tide
Timex Q 1975 Reissue Sep 23, 2021

CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305

When your back catalogue runs as deep and storied as Timex, dipping your horological toe into the re-issues pool should be a no brainer. Having already exhibited some serious nous by reimaging the mid-century Marlin in both hand-wound and automatic varities – plus one for the ladies – the American manufacturer has again dipped into … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Timex Q 1975 Reissue is a retro bargain for $305 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Sep 2, 2021

IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic

Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...

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Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Aug 24, 2021

Grand Seiko Introduces the Spring Drive 5 Days Caliber 9RA2

Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...

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HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers Jul 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial

Zenith have a track record for having their fingers on the pulse of the watch world. In the ‘60s, they spent nearly the entire decade developing the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then, the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs and new possibilities. Now, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits Jul 29, 2021

VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms

In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range Time+Tide
Longines DolceVita adds sector dials Jul 17, 2021

There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range

Earlier this year, Longines added two new Art Deco sector dialled automatic watches to their DolceVita Collection. The collection is the brand’s answer to a classically styled Tank-shaped watch. These new iterations translated the design of their Heritage Classic Sector Dial into the more dressy confines of a DolceVita. As the watches have started to … ContinuedThe post There’s a new Tank in town: The Longines DolceVita adds sector dials to its range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty Time+Tide
Longines steps up their customer Jul 14, 2021

Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty

Longines have made a strong move to increase customer loyalty, while also underlining the inherent value of their Swiss craftsmanship. From next month, the brand has announced that it’s extending their warranty on all models equipped with a silicon balance-spring. The new five-year warranty will be valid for all automatic models purchased (not produced) after … ContinuedThe post Longines steps up their customer care with an increased five year warranty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection Revolution
Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Jun 18, 2021

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection

There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.

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Citizen Introduces the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jun 5, 2021

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Usually associated with solar-powered, high-spec professional diver’s watches, Citizen has just launched something unusual. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a higher-end dive watch powered by the automatic cal. 9051 and a case made of its proprietary, hardened titanium. Initial thoughts The new Promaster is a huge – it’s 46 mm wide – with an aggressively, slightly over-the-top-design. And for that reason it’s cool; the style and size will surely appeal to anyone who likes large dive watches. Importantly, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is automatic, which gives it a greater technical appeal for the watch enthusiast. Citizen’s dive watch offerings in recent years have either been solar or entry-level automatics (priced at between US$300-400), while the new Promaster costs about US$1,000. The price brings with its an impressively constructed case in hardened titanium, a massive bezel, and prominently domed sapphire crystal. With Citizen having a history of dive watches with even greater depth ratings, the followups to the new Promaster will be worth keeping an eye on, especially a 1,000 m diver in the same style. The case is 15.3 mm high, with almost half of that the bezel Large and light Despite the case size, the Promaster Mechanical Diver is lightweight. Both the case and bezel are Super Titanium, titanium that boasts an extra-hard surface thanks to Duratect treatment. The process takes place with the component in chamber that’s heated to several...

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The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Riviera joins Jun 4, 2021

The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party

Recently we saw the return of the Baume & Mercier Riviera in the form of three configurations: the 42mm Baumatic, 42mm Automatic, and 36mm quartz. Amongst the Time+Tide team we unanimously welcomed the Riviera and lauded the line for creating a more affordable opportunity to get a quality integrated, stainless-steel sports watch. But the Riviera … ContinuedThe post The Baume & Mercier Riviera joins the green party appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 4, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Gradient Blue “Tuna” 1000 m Diver

One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...

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Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Launched earlier Jun 2, 2021

Up Close: Piaget Polo Skeleton

Launched earlier this year as the latest addition to Piaget’s compact Polo S line up, the Piaget Polo Skeleton joins a crowded field of luxury-sports watches. But it is a novel enough proposition – being a skeletonised, automatic sports watch – to make it notable. And it helps that the Polo Skeleton is exceptionally slim, thin enough that it feels similar to Piaget’s Altiplano dress watches on the wrist. Initial thoughts Piaget loaned me a Polo Skeleton in blue for a couple of days, and two features stood out: its slimness and how well it wore (save for the clasp buttons, more on that below). The Polo Skeleton is wide but flat, and sits elegantly on the wrist. Even though the bracelet is relatively thick compared to the case, that is only apparently when the watch is off the wrist. On the wrist the bracelet pairs well with the case, despite not being an integrated design. Having a skeletonised movement with coloured bridges give the Polo Skeleton a distinct look. This contrasts with the standard time-only Polo S, especially with its linear-pattern dial, that does admittedly bring to mind other luxury-sports watches. At the same time, the finishing and style of the cal. 1200S in the Polo Skeleton bring depth and texture to the face, while also injecting a bit of movement with the rotor and balance wheel. The Polo Skeleton is offered in two guises – blue or grey treatment for the movement – and the blue is the more striking by far. It is also more legible due to ...

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VIDEO: The pitch-perfect Tissot PRX brings you an integrated steel sports watch for a bargain price Time+Tide
Tissot PRX brings you May 12, 2021

VIDEO: The pitch-perfect Tissot PRX brings you an integrated steel sports watch for a bargain price

Editor’s note: The heat around the pitch-perfect Tissot PRX models has not died down, and neither has the demand, which is understandable when you consider the price point of $550AUD. And things are set to go up another notch in a couple of months when the Powermatic automatic models follow in lockstep. But for now, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The pitch-perfect Tissot PRX brings you an integrated steel sports watch for a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 May 3, 2021

Up Close: Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003

Last year’s 60th anniversary was a major event for Grand Seiko, which unveiled several new movements and plenty of limited editions to mark the occasion. The most notable launch was probably the 9SA5 movement, a high-frequency and high-end automatic calibre. The movement made its debut in the luxe yellow-gold SLGH002, then in the steel Grand Seiko 60th Anniversary Hi-Beat SLGH003 a few months later. Since then the movement has been installed in a similar, but even more pricey platinum edition, and finally the regular production “White Birch” SLGH005. The cal. 9SA5 All the models are essentially the same, save for different dial finishes and case materials. Here we take a close look at the SLGH003 in steel as a representative for the “SLGH” family. Like its siblings in the family, the SLGH003 is a brand-new reference. The case and dial designs evolved from the existing and familiar Grand Seiko style, but inside is a radically new movement – the cal. 9SA5 with a Dual Impulse escapement. The aesthetic changes have created more refined exterior that better showcase the brand’s case finishing, but more crucially, the improvements signify the brand’s moves upmarket – exemplified by the more elaborate movement and higher price tag. The SLGH003 Initial thoughts Unique among the Grand Seiko line up in terms of its movement and styling, the “SLGH” family boasts new features that are mostly for the better, such as the more elaborate case and sophisticated mov...

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Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch Apr 19, 2021

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Friday, April 23, 2021, Sotheby’s first live watch auction of the year takes place in Hong Kong. Important Watches is a full-sized sale led by the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum with a turquoise “Stella” dial, which might just set the record for most valuable automatic Daytona ever sold at auction. But the 296-lot sale is diverse in the traditional manner of Hong Kong auctions, encompassing vintage Patek Philippe, modern grand complications, and an assortment of independent watchmaking. Here’s a roundup of a few noteworthy lots at the auction, including a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in exceptional condition, a pair of gorgeous pocket watches decorated with the very best of Geneva miniature enamelling, and the F.P Journe Coffret 38 made up of five watches with steel cases. The auction will start at 11 am local time on April 23 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2185 – Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch The middle decades of the 20th century were a golden age for miniature enamelling in Geneva, with the cities best watchmakers recruiting its best enamellers to decorate pocket watches. One example of such work is lot 2185, a yellow gold pocket watch made in 1948 by Vacheron Constantin that bears a miniature enamel painting by Hélène May Mercier (1910-1996), an artisan who learnt the craft with another famed enameller, Carlo Poluzzi...

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A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Apr 14, 2021

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot

Earlier this year Grand Seiko announced a watch that was an instant hit within collectors’ circles. The new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 9SA5 Series 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had everything you might expect from a Grand Seiko. It had a well-proportioned 40mm steel case, contained the brand-new 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement and also featured a … ContinuedThe post A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11

You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 10, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...

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