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Quickset Date

Two-position crown for setting the date independently of the time. Rolex Cal. 3035 (1977) → Cal. 3135 → modern standard.
Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959 SJX Watches
Seiko Remakes Mar 16, 2021

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959

A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...

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IN-DEPTH: Gone but not forgotten - the discontinued Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner ref 114060 Before Feb 20, 2021

IN-DEPTH: Gone but not forgotten - the discontinued Rolex Submariner ref. 114060

Before we dig into the Rolex Submariner 114060, I want to set the record straight on Submariner nomenclature. There is no such thing as the “Submariner No-Date” in the Rolex catalogue. The Rolex Submariner does not have a date window or cyclops magnification, that complication is reserved for the Submariner Date. This rampant mis-naming of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Gone but not forgotten – the discontinued Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Remakes the 1950s Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Remakes Feb 10, 2021

Longines Remakes the 1950s Silver Arrow

Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes-Benz Formula 1 cars of the 1950s, the Longines Silver Arrow was introduced in 1956. Typical of mid-20th century gentlemen’s watches, the Silver Arrow is a functional but elegant design with a discreet flourish in the form of fluted hour markers. Notably, the Silver Arrow was first reproduced about a decade ago, but with a date and simpler execution all around. Now it returns as a more sophisticated remake that is far closer to the vintage original, but with a latest generation ETA movement equipped with a silicon hairspring. Initial thoughts Like the brand’s other recent remakes, the Silver Arrow maintains the look and feel of the original, albeit enlarged as most reproductions are. The dial has the details of the original, as does the thin case and even the crown. Longines’ Heritage remakes are often modelled on military-issue or sports watches, resulting in a strongly utilitarian aesthetic. The Silver Arrow is different, offering another look while still preserving the strong value of Longines’ historical remakes. Priced at US$2,100, the Silver Arrow will be difficult to beat in terms of classical watches in its price segment. Silver Arrow redux The silver dial features unusual, fluted indices just like the vintage original. That, along with the sword hands and correct typography create a faithful replica of the 1956 Silver Arrow. As is standard practice, the remake is larger than the original, although the new Silver Arr...

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Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking SJX Watches
Ming Jan 27, 2021

Garrick Debuts an Affordable, Contemporary Take on English Watchmaking

Garrick is a newish independent watch brand based in Norfolk, England. Founded in 2014, it specialises in watches inspired by historical English watchmaking, exemplified by the S1, an elaborately-conceived, but pricey, timepiece. Now the brand has launched its most compelling buy to date, the Garrick S4. Like its earlier model, the S4 still possesses many elements drawn from English watches of yore, but is executed more simply. The S4 still boasts an unusual level of hand-finished details – including a barrel and crown wheel cover decorated with floral engraving and hand-finished bevelling – but is priced far more accessibly, with a retail price that starts under US$6,000 before taxes. Initial thoughts While independent-watchmaking startups are proliferating, most don’t diverge too far from each other; many focus on dial and case designs that are modern looking, think Ming and Sartory Billard. The Garrick S4 is unusual, particularly in two attributes that set it apart – traditional, pocket watch-inspired design and hand-finished details – which bring to mind an earlier generation of independent watchmakers like D. Dornblüth & Sohn. The most discernible feature of the S4 is the dial, which is unabashedly classical in style. But like the pocket watches that inspire it, the dial has depth, thanks to a multiple-part construction and varied surface finishes, including an engine-turned seconds register. Over on the back, the view is necessarily simpler than that ...

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Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter SJX Watches
Panerai Jan 20, 2021

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter

In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...

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Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze SJX Watches
Zenith Elite base movement Jan 19, 2021

Urwerk Unveils the UR-100V T-Rex in Patterned Bronze

Synonymous with avant-garde watchmaking, Urwerk’s best-known complication is its reinterpretation of the centuries-old wandering hours, executed in both two- and three-dimensional motion. Just over a year ago, Urwerk unveiled the UR-100 SpaceTime, an easily-wearable, entry-level iteration of the satellite-disc wristwatch. Now the brand has taken the covers off the UR-100V T-Rex. Perhaps the most interesting version of the UR-100 to date, the T-Rex has an aged bronze case covered in a pronounced hobnail pattern that evokes the Tyrannosaurus rex. More notably, the “V” suffix in the model name indicates the Zenith Elite base movement in the original UR-100 has been replaced with a Vaucher automatic. Initial thoughts Still original despite being some two decades old, the satellite hours remains the brand’s forte. And the UR-100 is arguably the most compelling version of the watch in recent year, being both the most affordable and wearable. That probably explains why the UR-100 has sold well, resulting in the brand rolling out several variants in a short span of time, ranging from basic version in steel or titanium to the top of the line model in 18k yellow gold. But the UR-100 is at heart a pared-back design, simpler in form than the brand’s early watches, which are mostly more elaborate in the case construction. So the milled scales on the bronze case of the T-Rex sets it apart from other UR-100s – both in aesthetics and tactile feel – giving it an edgy look...

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Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take? Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Jan 10, 2021

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take?

The RM 65-01 is the latest in a proud line of rugged, structurally advanced chronographs from Richard Mille. In basic terms, it is an automatic, split-seconds chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers that displays the date and includes a function selector, rapid winding mechanism, and variable geometry winding rotor. But as Joshua Munchow reveals, there's much more to it than that.

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Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jan 4, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen

While the L.U.C XP is best known as Chopard’s pared-back, formal-dress wristwatch, it also forms the base for an interesting collection of limited-edition timepieces decorated in urushi and maki-e, forms of traditional Japanese lacquer – an East Asian take on the metiers d’art often found in Swiss watchmaking. The latest addition to the line its most unusual to date, being not just a decorative expression but also a new, albeit simple, complication. Decorated in lacquer and gold dust, the L.U.C XP Urushi Spirit of Shí Chen has a mechanism displaying traditional Chinese time of 12-hour days, with each hour represented by an animal of the Chinese Zodiac. Initial thoughts Watches inspired by Chinese culture are common – and increasing given the strength of demand for watches in China – but they oftentimes have an over-the-top aesthetic. Chopard, on the other hand, incorporated the Chinese motifs elegantly, resulting in an appealing watch. At a distance, the Spirit of Shí Chen has a simple, geometric style, but up close the dial reveals its decorative details. The deep-black lacquer dial – sprinkled with gold dust that evoke the cosmos – gives the watch a clean, restrained appearance, save for the elaborate, solid-gold frame and shí chen indicator. An ancient way of telling time is uncommon in a modern watch, making the shí chen indicator the highlight – appropriately enough it is rendered in gold powder and fine detail, with a gold-dusted background tha...

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Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding All-Gold Off-Beat Dec 14, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance

With the Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin created a very tempting assortment of watches appealing to contemporary women. While the design of the Égérie is rooted in tradition, these watches always come with a little twist. In the case of the new Égérie Self-Winding, quite literally as the crown is at two o'clock with the date of this self-winding model occupying the same corner of the dial. While also available in steel, Martin Green thinks that the pink gold version on a gold bracelet is an especially precious proposition.

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HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco Dec 14, 2020

HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof

TAG Heuer’s Monaco has experienced a rather slow evolution in recent years, as the world’s most famous square watch shouldn’t be messed with too much. The new black dial TAG Heuer Monaco on bracelet is a further exploration into the watch’s roots, while keeping up to date with all the technical quality we expect from … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Watches on bracelets are always better and this TAG Heuer Monaco is proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Anordain Introduces the Model 1 Fumé SJX Watches
Anordain Introduces Dec 1, 2020

Anordain Introduces the Model 1 Fumé

Having made its debut two years ago with the original Model 1, Anordain has just announced the Model 1 Fumé that features a fired enamel dial in graduated, translucent colour. Based in the Scottish city of Glasgow, Anordain’s specialty are vitreous enamel dials in lightly-designed, affordable watches, and the Model 1 Fumé boasts the most elaborate dial to date. Brightly coloured in the centre and darkening towards the edges, the dial of the new Model 1 is the result of experimenting with a silver dial base, instead of the usual copper. After a year’s worth of trial and error, Anordain’s pair of in-house enamellers finally perfected the smoked enamel dial. Initial thoughts With its fired enamel dial in pastel colours, the original Model 1 was an appealing watch with even more appealing value, being priced at a little under US$1,400 at the time. It was a modestly sized watch with a simple dial that was still distinctive, thanks to the proprietary typography and smart dial design. And the recognisable texture and colour of the enamel dial made it even better. The new Model 1 is essentially identical in terms of size and style. Although the case has been subtly redesigned, it retains the same dimensions, which means it wears well and feels a little bit like a vintage watch, albeit one that’s quite thick for the diameter. But the new dial is far more striking. In fact, the dial is similar to that found on last year’s Model 2, a good-looking watch that is a little b...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Nov 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon

Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...

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Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Nov 16, 2020

Longines Introduces the Legend Diver Watch in Bronze

For watch enthusiasts, Longines’ forte is its Heritage collection, a series of well-priced vintage remakes that began with the Legend Diver of 2007. Based on the ref. 7042 of 1960s, which had a distinctive, twin-crown  “Super Compressor” case, the Legend Diver is a bestseller thanks to its convincingly retro style. And now Longines has just unveiled the Legend Diver Watch in bronze, which has a new case material for the model, but does away with the date function long panned by aficionados. Initial thoughts Bronze is a popular case material for dive watches that was once exotic but is now a bit too faddish, being found on watches priced as low as a few hundred dollars. Its desirability comes from its unusual, evolving appearance from the patina that develops on its surface as its oxidises. A Legend Diver in bronze is a natural move – and the watch looks good, while retaining the appealing affordability typical of Longines. While the material is the highlight, the dial has been tweaked to match the bronze case. Most notable is the elimination of the date display found on the standard, steel Legend Diver but not on the original, which brings the design of the bronze model closer to the vintage model. At the same time, the dial has a smoked, green finish that matches the colour of bronze well. With a price tag of US$3,000, the bronze Legend Diver is about 30% more expensive than its steel counterpart. It’s a modest and fair premium, considering both the case mate...

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UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches - now including “No Time to Die” Time+Tide
Nov 14, 2020

UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches - now including “No Time to Die”

Editor’s note: Before you ask, yes we have a date. April 2, 2021. It ain’t exactly days away, but at least we know how long the advent calendar has to be. A fair bit of chocolate is the upside. We are happy to report that one of the largest entertainment-related casualties of the pandemic, the delay … ContinuedThe post UPDATED: The complete list of Bond watches – now including “No Time to Die” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Seiko Introduces the Credor Eichi II with a Blue Porcelain Dial SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Nov 12, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Credor Eichi II with a Blue Porcelain Dial

While next year has yet to start, Seiko has begun the progressive release of the special editions marking the 140th anniversary of its founding in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori. Unquestionably one of the most beautiful of the anniversary, despite being only the second commemorative watch announced so far, is the Credor Eichi II with a dial in ruri blue (ref. GBLT997). The third variant of the Eichi II to date after the original and the rose gold version – or fourth variant if you count the edition for the Wako department store that’s nearly identical to the original – the new model features a porcelain dial glazed in a dark blue that’s reminiscent of lapis lazuli. Requiring two years of development to perfect according to Seiko, the blue glaze is applied in several layers that are individually fired in an oven to create the deep, nuanced colour. Initial thoughts The Eichi II is a brilliantly restrained watch that has a gently designed dial and gorgeously finished movement. Even though Seiko does make more complicated and expensive watches, the Eichi II is arguably the flagship watch of the brand’s top-of-the-line offerings, a halo product of sorts. While the new Eichi II in blue is no doubt beautiful, and perhaps more striking and unusual than the original, it feels like there are too many variants of a special watch. Even though the tangible qualities of the watch remain intact, its status as the ultimate time-only Seiko is being chipped away by the Eichi II iterati...

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Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Sep 29, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge

Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...

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Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs: Just A Splash Of Flash Quill & Pad
Hermes Sep 26, 2020

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs: Just A Splash Of Flash

The Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de Diamants et Saphirs adds a fanciful and whimsical slant to the Arceau Petite Lune, which is just begging for some fun. This new version utilizes a mother-of-pearl dial and date subdial adorned by 65 blue sapphires and 58 tiny diamonds. It's a Goldilocks splash of flash, not too much and not too little. Time to fall in love!

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INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions Sep 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 9, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”

Perhaps the most interesting watches of the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary collection, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the only watch of the trio that is a distinctly new model. The thinnest split-seconds chronograph made by Lange to date, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is the first Lange chronograph in the gold alloy, a point of distinction enhanced by the uncommon black dial. Initial thoughts The 1815 Rattrapante is the first watch to feature the L101.2, a new movement that’s derived from the calibre in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. Surprisingly slim for a highly-complicated Lange, its appeal is boosted by the high-contrast black dial with gold markings – always an attractive combination but one rarely found on a Lange wristwatches. That said, it is highly likely that the 1815 Rattrapante will make its way into the regular catalogue – chief executive Wilhelm Schmid explicitly declined to comment on that – which would not make this a one-off creation. The 175th anniversary trio Streamlined split Undoubtedly the most interesting watch in the line up, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold is a brand-new model, though it is essentially a simplified version of the 1815 split-seconds with perpetual calendar. And it is the only watch in the trio that’s exclusive to Lange boutiques. Described by Mr de Haas as a split-seconds chronograph for the client who wants something slimmer and simpler than the flagship Triple Split...

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