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Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets Apr 9, 2024

Vacheron Constantin’s Tourbillon Chronograph Gets All-Platinum Makeover

Amongst Vacheron Constantin’s novelties at Watches & Wonders is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine (CEP), the latest model to receive the monochromatic, all-platinum treatment. Coming two years after the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph CEP, this utilises platinum extensively throughout the watch, and even the stitching of the strap, while maintaining many of the standard model’s key characteristics. Initial thoughts On its face, the new Tourbillon Chronograph closely resembles the standard model in rose gold. The view from the back is practically identical – which is a good thing given the appeal of the cal. 3200, a recent in-house calibre (and not Lemania based) but one constructed with traditional aesthetics and details. Nevertheless, being a CEP edition, it embraces a primarily grey palette. This is tastefully complemented by the blue accents, including the blued steel hands, and a single blued screw on the tourbillon cage. It’s a straightforward yet effective combination.  The formula is the same one applied to past CEP editions, so the similarity between this and the standard model is understandable. However, varying the design more in order to distinguish this from the regular production model would have made it a bit more special. Nevertheless, the CEP possesses a refined charm and is more appealing than its current standard model, albeit with a price tag that is quite a bit more, as is usually the case for CEP...

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Zenith Introduces a Long Awaited Chronograph to the Defy Skyline Collection

Zenith returns to the Defy collection this year at Watches & Wonders with the introduction of a Defy Skyline Chronograph. This is a version of the next-gen Defy that Zenith fans have been anticipating since the collection’s debut, given the long line of chronographs that have populated Defy collections past and present. The new Defy Skyline Chronograph follows iterations of the Skyline that have played with materials and skeletonization, so it seems possible (even likely) that eventually the chronograph will get similar treatment. For now, we have a trio of references in stainless steel that feel like a logical extension of the Defy Skyline series.  The 42mm case is effectively unchanged from previous skylines, and is Zenith’s contemporary take on the original 8-sided Defy case first seen in the late 1960s. The Defy, as opposed to the Chronomaster and Pilot lines, has always been Zenith’s playground for the avant-garde and the unusual, and the highly sculptural case design of this watch, that traces a lineage back to the original, underscores the very nature of what the Defy is.  Dial options at launch include metallic black, blue, and silver, and feature the signature star pattern that has been present in the Skyline from the beginning. The subdials are oversized and overlap just slightly (perhaps not as much as on a Chronomaster) and are color matched to the main dial, but do not feature the Skyline stars. As with most other watches running on El Primero movement...

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Fratello
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar One Apr 9, 2024

Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

One part inside your watch makes one complete rotation every 400 years. Let that sink in. This is the case with the new IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar ref. IW505701. The calendar will run flawlessly until the year 3999. A regular perpetual calendar would need three corrections (in 2100, 2200, and 2300). Only those centurial years […] Visit Hot Take: IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar to read the full article.

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Apr 9, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

Perhaps unsurprising given Cartier’s track record with the Privé collection, the jeweller has revived its popular single-button chronograph – but with an all-new movement. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is a manual-wind chronograph powered by the cal. 1928 MC, a form movement conceived for the watch. Making its debut well over a decade after the discontinuation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) version, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is slightly larger than its predecessor, but also thinner and more elegantly proportioned. While the cal. 1928 MC inside is new – the movement is notable in itself – the aesthetic is more vintage inspired, particularly on the yellow gold version; the other version is platinum. The cal. 1928 MC Initial thoughts Although relatively straightforward in concept and design, the Tortue Monopoussoir is executed well. Although the visuals are faithful to the vintage originals, especially with the yellow gold version, the watch feels contemporary because of the size. At just over 10 mm high, the proportions of the case are excellent. It feels elegant and neither too big nor too small. And it is surprisingly thin for a chronograph, which is especially appealing. Relatively to its predecessors, the new Tortue Monopoussoir sits in between: larger than the first CPCP version, but smaller than the CPCP XL model, making it just right. Between the yellow gold and platinum models, the former looks most like the 1928 origin...

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Collection Apr 9, 2024

A Handy Guide to the Refreshed IWC Portugieser Collection

For IWC, 2024 is the year of the Portugieser. The collection receives a full refresh that covers the Portugieser Automatic 40, Portugieser Automatic 42 (previously known as the 7 Days), Portugieser Chronograph, and Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44. In addition, IWC has introduced an all-new model, the Portugieser Hand Wound Tourbillon Day & Night with a flying (and hacking) tourbillon. The standout debut, however, is without question the Portugieser Eternal Calendar – which we cover in a separate story. With the facelift, IWC has refined its core collection with subtle nips and tucks, including slimmer cases, while retaining the familiar design. The revamp includes new liveries including metallic finish dials in baby blue and champagne. The champagne finish, known as “Dune” Initial thoughts I’ve always enjoyed the aesthetic of the Portugieser collection, which is perhaps the only collection of dress watches of any brand where the (over)sizing is a feature rather than a drawback. The new collection is no exception; each piece is attractive and several models have received thoughtful technical upgrades, including an escapement with enhanced magnetism resistance. And the dials are not merely new colours, but sport detailed finishing and thoughtful details. Of course, there’s little in the way of true novelty in the collection outside of the Eternal Calendar that is a rare complication executed smartly but for an hard-to-believe six-figure price. Even the Tourbillo...

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Classically Elegant Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Annual Calendar

After several iterations of its integrated sporty-chic watches, the Sport Auto and the Grand Sport Tourbillon, independent watchmaker Laurent Ferrier goes back to his roots. Known for the sublime elegance and smoothness of his creations, something he perfected during his long career at Patek, Laurent Ferrier introduces two highly elegant new models from its classic […]

Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past Worn & Wound
Bravur Apr 8, 2024

Bravur Introduces the “Team Heritage” Collection, Paying Tribute to Classic Cycling Teams of the Past

Swedish brand Bravur was founded in 2011 with the goal to design, develop and hand build mechanical watches to order. Essentially, crafting watches to the highest standards, never compromising on craftsmanship and quality. They build all their mechanical watches in a small workshop in Båstad and having their own assembly gives them maximum control over their production. Inspired by the founder’s shared enthusiasm for bicycle racing in the southern region of Sweden, their latest 2024 release is a new range within their ‘Team Heritage’ series. There are three new models, the REN, PEU and MER, each representing an iconic cycling team from the 1950s to 80s. The measurements are 37mm in diameter, 44.6mm from lug-to-lug and only 11.4mm thick, while a Swiss Made Sellita SW300 oversees the timekeeping. The muse for the REN edition is the Renault team jersey, the very team that dominated the sport from 1978 to 1983. Its white sandwich dial cleverly displays the bold yellow, black, and white color pattern which characterized that team. The PEU edition’s austere scheme represents the legendary checkerboard pattern of the storied Peugeot team of the 1960s through to the mid-80s. Its excellent monochromatic legibility is ever so lightly garnished with a hint of green accents. The MER edition is the wildest of the three, inspired by the Mercier team that holds the record for the most participations in the Tour de France. Its textured purple dial is surrounded by a bright yellow...

First Look – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Black Titanium Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Apr 8, 2024

First Look – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manual Black Titanium

Although the star attraction at Bulgari’s will undoubtedly be the new record-breaking Octo Finissimo Ultra, the Italian brand will also be presenting three iterations of the watch that started Bulgari’s trailblazing campaign of ultra-thin winners. Unveiled in 2014, the record-breaking Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Tourbillon wowed the watchmaking world with the thinnest tourbillon movement (1.95mm) ever […]

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie goes fully Apr 8, 2024

H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

The second skeleton model from the independent watchmaker, it uses the same codes but in a new look. Highly complex with a double hairspring tourbillon at 6 o’clock. A great, yet pricey addition to the skeletonised integrated sports watch segment, at $86,900. The Streamliner has become an incredibly popular offering from independent watchmaker H. Moser … ContinuedThe post H. Moser & Cie goes fully see-through with the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - Apr 7, 2024

Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches

A little while ago, a copy of vintage watch collector Aashdin K. Billimoria’s new book landed on my desk. That name might ring a bell for you as he’s also the author of Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - The History of a Legend. And now he’s proudly presenting his book titled A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage […] Visit Introducing: A Comprehensive Guide To Vintage Swiss Watches to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More Fratello
Breguet Omega IWC Apr 5, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We continue our search for some of the best pre-owned watches currently available. With list prices for new watches soaring, we have dedicated this series of articles to finding pre-owned watches worth your attention. There are so many great watches available for great prices. In this seventh installment, we have […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 7 - Featuring Breguet, Omega, IWC, And More to read the full article.

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star Worn & Wound
Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement Apr 4, 2024

Bulova Brings their Precisionist Movement to the Marine Star

Bulova’s latest announcement heralds a significant leap forward in the evolution of the Marine Star collection, as they integrate the groundbreaking Precisionist High-Performance Quartz technology. This milestone underscores their commitment to seamlessly blending traditional craftsmanship with state-of-the-art upgrades, showing that a brand dating back to 1875 can still find ways to improve. The collection introduces three new “Series C” styles, each featuring a robust 43mm polygon case crafted from stainless steel. Notable for their impeccable accuracy, the Precisionist movement boasts a smooth sweeping second hand, which beats an impressive 16 times per second. The vibrant dial colors-bright yellow, silver, and rich chocolate-are tonally pitch-perfect, balancing both a sporty look with a subtle richness. Each dial is enhanced by a wave pattern, inspired by the ocean. This background makes a great canvas for luminescent hour markers and bold handset. A date window at the 3 o’clock mark, a black ceramic bezel, and a bold logo at 12 complete the look of this series of watches. All watches are now available via Bulova’s website. The three watches featured in this series are all priced depending on the color and strap option. The yellow watch is paired with a black rubber strap and is priced at $695. The white dial option has a simple stainless steel bracelet, priced at $795. And, finally, the brown dial with rose gold finishes is available for $750 with a blac...

SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package Worn & Wound
Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package

One of my absolute favorite discoveries at last year’s Watches & Wonders wasn’t even at Watches & Wonders, but at a presentation at the Beau Rivage hotel by Guillaume Laidet and Théo Auffret. Their new brand, now known as SpaceOne, was launching, and the watch they presented, a spaceship shaped bit of imagination with an impressive jump hour complication designed by Auffret, kind of blew me away. As a sci-fi nerd, I’m an easy mark for this kind of thing, admittedly, but even taking the futuristic, space stuff out of it, I was just incredibly excited to see this kind of purely imaginative watchmaking happening at such an accessible price point. It struck me at the time as being part of a wave of somewhat gonzo watch designs that take their cues from the highest of high horology, but bring the barrier to entry way down.  One year later, SpeceOne has released their follow up, a watch that I think in many ways is even more impressive than the Jump Hour. The Tellurium continues down the cosmological path set forth by the debut (and the brand name) with an astronomical complication that heretofore would be hard to imagine in a watch retailing for just under 3,000 EUR. This watch, in addition to telling the time and featuring a calendar with the date and month, tracks the moon’s orbit around the earth and the earth’s orbit around the sun via the heliocentric tellurium that is the core of the watch.  This is an admittedly more simple version of a planetarium watch tha...

A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01 Fratello
Mido Apr 3, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01

Am I going to try to put as many television references as possible into this article or not? I needed to ask myself that question before starting this hands-on introduction to the new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01. Well, obviously, I couldn’t help myself, as you can read in the subtitle. But I will […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E01 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Apr 3, 2024

Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition

I am always happy to try a new Zenith watch, especially when it’s made of precious materials. And that’s precisely what this Chronomaster Sport is about, boasting a rose gold case, a spinel-, diamond-, and sapphire-set bezel, and a gold meteorite dial with diamonds. Chronomaster Sport 22.3100.3600/69.M3100 This Zenith Chronomaster Sport in 18K rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The Rose Gold Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique And Online Edition to read the full article.

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s First International Flagship Apr 2, 2024

Worn & Wound Celebrates the Opening of Grand Seiko’s First International Flagship Boutique in NYC

Last Thursday, collectors, enthusiasts, and members of the Worn & Wound team came together to celebrate the opening of Grand Seiko’s latest Flagship Boutique, which opened on New York’s iconic Madison Avenue in February. The first boutique of its kind anywhere outside of Japan, this new space is a remarkable testament to the enormous popularity and respect Grand Seiko has garnered since its introduction to the international market in 2010. The event drew in collectors from all over the East Coast and offered a rare after-hours opportunity to explore Grand Seiko’s wide-ranging collection. New York City collectors have, for the last few years, been lucky enough to have access to Grand Seiko’s marvelous SoHo boutique. That space, which Zach Weiss visited in 2021, is a small, intimate affair, with white-washed brick walls and a narrow footprint, perfectly placed among the cast-iron architecture and red brick buildings of the neighborhood. This new Flagship Boutique is something else entirely. Entering the warm, sun-drenched main hall of the boutique from the cool New York City weather, you’re greeted by a space unlike any other, with tall ceilings, Japanese carpentry, and glass everywhere you turn. It’s an easy space to get drawn into but, like an iceberg, there is plenty that sits below the water, or in this case, below street level.  Following the large staircase to the lower floor reveals an intimate lounge space and bar. It was this wonderful space that played...

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For Worn & Wound
Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Apr 1, 2024

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For

Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...

Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite Fratello
Mido Apr 1, 2024

Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite

Last week, I introduced the new Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition to you. It’s a relatively affordable vintage-inspired watch with a blue dial and flyer GMT movement inside. I also told you that I was quite excited about it because of its attractive design, modest proportions, and price. However, my opinion was entirely based […] Visit Hands-On With The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - A Fun And Crowd-Pleasing Favorite to read the full article.

Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection Fratello
Swatch Mar 30, 2024

Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection

The Swatch × Tate collection debuted on March 20th at London’s Tate Modern gallery, home to over 76,000 art pieces. The reason for that is the latest Swatch art collaboration with Tate. There are seven new Swatch × Tate models, each representing a specific artwork - Turner’s Scarlet Sunset, Chagall’s Blue Circus, Miró’s Women and […] Visit Swatch Art Journey 2024 - Meet The Swatch × Tate Gallery Collection to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 6 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Omega, IWC, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Omega IWC Mar 29, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 6 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Omega, IWC, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! We continue our quest to bring you pre-owned watches that deserve your attention. In today’s market, it is worth looking at some of the hidden gems from the past. With list prices of new watches increasing multiple times a year, it might lead you to some amazing pre-owned options that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 6 - Featuring Patek Philippe, Omega, IWC, And More to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Valour Chronograph Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 28, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces the C63 Valour Chronograph

Christopher Ward is expanding its military watch line, with the new C63 Valour chronograph. Past Christopher Ward military watches have paid tribute to the British Army, Navy, and Air Force. The C63 Valour is the first watch in Christopher Ward’s lineup dedicated to all three branches. In creating the C63 Valour, watch designer Will Brackfield turned to “the British Military quartz watches of the 1980s, with applied and polished numerals.” The C63 Valour similarly features applied numerals and an applied logo in steel that pop against the black dial. In military watches, legibility is key, and it’s clear the C63 Valour draws on pilot watches in particular with its large Arabic numerals. It’s a minimalist watch face, with a lot of information laid out very simply, making it easy to read and a pleasure to look at. Lumed hour and minute hands make sure that it’s easy to read even at night. The three branches are represented on the watch in the steel subdials, which feature a light blue hand for the Air Force, a dark blue hand for the Navy, and a red hand for the Army. The caseback also features the three heraldic crests of the military branches, along with the queen’s crown in honor of the late Queen Elizabeth II. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug of 45.8mm. Inside is a battery-powered movement with a lifespan of three years and accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a year. Fitting for a watch that also pays tribute to the Royal Nav...

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s Fratello
Christopher Ward Introduces Mar 28, 2024

Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s

The speed at which Christopher Ward releases new watches is impressive. But it’s even more impressive that the brand maintains a certain level of variety that keeps every release fresh. There’s truly something for everyone in Christopher Ward’s rapidly expanding collection. The newest creation from the CW kitchens is the C63 Valour. This quartz timepiece […] Visit Christopher Ward Introduces The C63 Valour - A Quartz Chronograph Inspired By Military Watches From The 1980s to read the full article.

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers Fratello
Mar 27, 2024

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers

Dear watch fans, it’s time to take a breather. Just sit back, relax, and listen to the 8-track - and you can do that while listening to Me’shell Ndegéocello’s song “I’m Diggin’ You (Like an Old Soul Record).” The reason I’m writing this is that the fast-paced digital world seems to be taking its toll […] Visit Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers to read the full article.