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Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r Fratello
Jan 26, 2026

Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r

Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO SJX Watches
MB&F; Jan 20, 2026

Sequential Sequel: The MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback EVO

MB&F; has updated its EVO line with an aquamarine version of Stephen McDonnell’s ingenious double chronograph, freshly upgraded with the flyback functionality first seen in the classic Legacy Machine Sequential. The Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback EVO is a tough titanium timer suited to the rigours of daily wear thanks to its shock-protected and water resistant case and supple rubber strap. Initial thoughts MB&F; has enjoyed enormous success over the last few years, and while the rising tide of interest in independent watchmaking has lifted most major brands, it helps that MB&F;’s products are excellent and original. While the brand rarely dabbles in traditional complicated watchmaking, its first two forays – the LM Perpetual and Sequential, both designed by Stephen McDonnell – are standouts in their categories. The Sequential in particular is among the most interesting and creative chronographs on the market. This latest iteration applies the movement’s latest upgrades, principally the flyback function, to a sporty, titanium, Legacy Machine EVO case, which comes with enhanced shock and water resistance. Despite these tangible upgrades, the EVO Sequential is no larger than its dressier precious metal Legacy Machine counterparts. That’s a good thing, since the watch has a commanding, almost overwhelming presence on the wrist as it is. One of the benefits of the EVO case, compared to that of the classic LM, is the presence of a FlexRing shock absorber that provide...

Hands-On: New Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black And Gold WatchAdvice
Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton Jan 19, 2026

Hands-On: New Zenith DEFY Skyline Skeleton In Black And Gold

A new take on the classic ceramic DEFY Skyline Skeleton. Black ceramic meets a gold-toned, high-frequency movement for a watch that’s as technically impressive as it is visually striking. Modern, architectural, and unmistakably Zenith! What We Love Full black ceramic case and bracelet combined with the gold dial make it aesthetically appealing! The constant 1/10th of a second sub-counter showcases the complexity of the movement underneath. Quick strap change allows for easy change between a ceramic bracelet or rubber strap for daily versatility. What We Don’t Would’ve liked to see the minute track, but more subdued. In white, it can make the dial seem even busier. While the 1/10th of a second chronograph is great for aesthetics and show of technicality, it doesn’t serve a real purpose. Even though it’s a skeletonised dial, most of the El Primero 3620 SK movement is still closed off. Overall Rating: 8.7/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 The world of ceramic watches isn’t what it used to be a decade ago. Advances in materials and manufacturing mean that ceramic timepieces are no longer niche or fragile experiments, but a genuine part of watchmaking. While crafting bold colours in ceramic can present its own challenge, the more classic tones like black, white, or blue are becoming far more achievable, allowing brands to explore the world of ceramic not as a limited edition or one-offs, but as a refined material for e...

Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue SJX Watches
Jan 15, 2026

Stellar Sequel: Oliver Gallaugher Deep Space Blue

British designer Oliver Gallaugher (O.G) has unveiled the Deep Space Blue, a compact follow-up to the debut Deep Space launched two years ago. The refined sizing is thanks to a new movement that’s both smaller and better-equipped than the out-going Unitas 6498-based platform. The 35-piece limited edition features a blued-hued dial with the same stellar theme of the original. To top it off, each dial features a unique pattern of engraved stars, making each individually numbered watch distinct from the next. Initial thoughts Oliver Gallaugher’s original Deep Space, launched in 2023, delivered an interesting and well-executed dial in a watch that wasn’t unnecessarily expensive. I appreciate that O.G has not moved aggressively upmarket with the sequel, as seems to be the trend for independents. Instead, the Deep Space Blue is slightly smaller and slightly nicer, while being only slightly more expensive, resulting in an improved value proposition. The revised dial is largely identical to that of the first generation Deep Space, aside from its blue colour and smaller size. The intersteller theme is conveyed clearly by the design, and no two will be alike; each dial will have unique and recognisable star pattern. The design looks as good in blue as in its original grey, which makes one wonder what it might look like in black or even burgundy. The brand did redesign the hands for the new edition, which were previously flat, matte, and bimetallic. The hands are now polished a...

The 38 Best Dress Watches for 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 14, 2026

The 38 Best Dress Watches for 2026

Most watch aficionados consider a go-to dress watch to be a necessary addition to any collection, whether it’s a piece designated for wear only on special occasions or one worn daily to the office. Along with sports watches, dress watches represent one of the most sought-after styles, so we’ve curated a list of the best dress watches that offer style, value, and quality at every price range. We sought out as much variety and diversity as possible with options ranging from a Timex that costs a few hundred dollars, one of the best Seiko values out there, a solid gold Rolex Day-Date, and independent options from the likes of Moser and F.P. Journe. So, here are our standout dress watches for 2026 organized from least to most expensive (and with some handy chapters organized for you).  [toc-section heading="Under $2,000"]  Timex Marlin For decades, Timex focused on affordable, mass-produced quartz watches, but recently the company has tapped into the mechanical market with the Marlin Collection. There is a 40mm automatic movement option with a wider array of dial options including eye-catching “Cali Dials”. Timex is light on the mechanical movement specs other than to note they are provided by a Chinese supplier, which isn’t surprising given the $319 price tag, making it one of the more affordable mechanical options available.  Case: 34mm, Thickness 10mm, Lug-To-Lug: 41mm, Lug Width: 18mm Crystal: Acrylic Movement: Hand Winding or Automatic Mechanical, Water-Resist...

Seiko Introduces the Tonneau Shaped SPB537 to the Presage Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Jan 12, 2026

Seiko Introduces the Tonneau Shaped SPB537 to the Presage Collection

While it’s tempting to build a collection of just tool watches and divers with beefiness and durability in spades, having a good dress watch is a boon for any collector. Not only can a dress watch give you an excuse to put on that dress or suit and accessorize, it can also help remind you that function isn’t everything then it comes to timepieces; style matters too.  Seiko’s Presage collection has long been a stalwart for dress watch shoppers on a budget who don’t want to sacrifice craftsmanship, and the new SPB537 reference is a tonneau-shaped addition to the Classic Series line. The enamel dial, paired with the tonneau case, is the major selling point for the SPB537, as it was designed by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and his apprentice, Kazunori Uchiyama. This extra level of prestige elevates the SPB537, and adds a sort of intimacy to the design, despite it being introduced as a non-limited, continuous production model. The dial is white, a gentle contrast to the 46mm by 35.9mm stainless steel case and bracelet, and features sharp black Roman numerals, with a black minute track around the outer edge. A matching 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock balances the dial, with the Seiko Presage logo just below 12.  Blued steel hands provide a colorful accent, with a balancing half moon on the tail end of the seconds hand. The blue, though on the subtler side, is a welcome addition to the otherwise very business-like dial, and it furthers the artisan craftsmanship promi...

New: IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse Deployant
IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year Jan 10, 2026

New: IWC Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse

The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback.

Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Jan 8, 2026

Precious Porcelain: The Seiko Credor Goldfeather GCBY991

Foreshadowing Credor’s Watches & Wonders debut in April (located alongside sister brand Grand Seiko), the Goldfeather GCBY991 Imari Nabeshima Porcelain is the brand’s first launch of the year. It pairs an ultra-thin hand-wound movement with a dial made using a traditional – and reputedly highly secretive – Japanese porcelain technique. But now the secret is out, cased in steel and limited to 60 pieces worldwide. Initial thoughts Originally envisioned in the 1970s as a vehicle for precious metal quartz watches, Credor later expanded into a catch-all brand for Seiko’s high-end offerings that didn’t fit the Grand Seiko aesthetic. Over the last few years, however, Credor has refocused and shrunk its catalogue from over 200 references in 2021 to fewer than 70 today, shedding legions of ladies’ quartz models while redoubling emphasis on artisanal crafts. The porcelain-dialed GCBY999 embodies this tighter focus and exemplifies the brand’s new motto: “the creativity of artisans”. Despite the Goldfeather branding – and Credor’s original purpose – the GCBY999 is cased in stainless steel. This is a welcome concession given the current price of gold, which is near all-time highs, especially since Seiko generally charges a higher premium for precious metal models than is typical for Swiss brands. As a result, the GCBY999 is good value within the Goldfeather lineup, despite its artisanal dial. The watch retails for JPY1.98 million in Japan, equivalent to about ...

Reviewing The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Dec 26, 2025

Reviewing The New Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph

Rado has recently released the new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Chronograph in black ceramic, and we wanted to test the latest iteration from the brand. What We Love The combination of matte and polished ceramic looks good The colourway is highly versatile The dial & bezel are highly legible during both day and nighttime thanks to the Super-LumiNova What We Don’t The bracelet clasp design is a little fiddly to open and close The screw-down pushers are not the easiest to operate when on the wrist It is a thick watch and won’t suit smaller wrists Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 7.5/10 As a watch enthusiast, there’s plenty of pieces out there to choose from. From low-end entry-level models to super high-end grand complications, the range is vast. But if you’re looking for a mid-level piece as a daily wearer, then the Captain Cook has always been the go-to model from Rado. As their tagline suggests, they are the Master of Materials when it comes to High-Tech ceramic, and as a material, ceramic is both versatile and robust. So much so that I bought my wife an all-white High-Tech Ceramic Rado True Thinline about 10 years ago, and it looks the same as the day I walked out of Wallace Bishop in Brisbane. The last Rado I personally reviewed was over 2 years ago now – the Bronze Captain Cook Chronograph which you can read about here, and I was quietly impressed with the watch and the value for money at the ...

Insight: F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine Smoked Sapphire SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine Smoked Sapphire Dec 16, 2025

Insight: F.P. Journe Répétition Souveraine Smoked Sapphire

The Répétition Souveraine is one of the more unusual minute repeaters on the market, combining classical inspiration with an idiosyncratic technical approach that is unmistakably F.P. Journe. Based on the familiar architecture of the Chronomètre Souverain yet fundamentally reworked to accommodate a striking mechanism, it is neither a conventional integrated repeater nor a simple modular add-on. Launched in 2008 with a conventional dial and briefly the thinnest contemporary minute repeater on the market, the latest iteration of the Répétition Souveraine reveals its workings through a smoked sapphire dial, offering a direct view of its flat gongs and strike train while underscoring François-Paul Journe’s distinctive philosophy of clarity, compactness, and mechanical logic. This is our third encounter with the Répétition Souveraine, having already covered the silver-dial variant and the elusive “Black Label” edition. Almost modular Most independents – and many large brands – rely on a handful of external specialists like Le Cercle des Horlogers or decades-old ebauche stocks for their repeaters. As a result, most repeaters take the same, time-tested, approach with only a few exceptions. Most are integrated designs that put the repeater train, hammers, and gongs on the same level as the rest of the movement. The rejuvenation of mechanical matchmaking during the 1980s and 1990s brought with it demand for systems that brands could add to existing movements. Amo...

Introducing the William Wood Vintage Triumph Worn & Wound
Sinn makes timepieces Dec 12, 2025

Introducing the William Wood Vintage Triumph

While there are many watches inspired by military, naval, or overlanding missions, there are surprisingly few in tribute to firefighting, despite the profession’s propensity for gear and danger. Sure, Sinn makes timepieces in their EZM line for German firefighters to wear into burning buildings, but they’re more utilitarian than conceptual; tool watches rather than tributes. Enter William Wood, a British watchmaker founded by Jonny Garret and named after his late grandfather, who was a decorated firefighter. All of the brand’s pieces are made from upcycled firefighting materials, with portions of the proceeds from each collection benefitting firefighting charities globally. With their newest-and perhaps most eccentric-timepiece, the Vintage Triumph, William Wood continues that legacy. The Vintage Triumph capitalizes on the brawn of the profession it’s inspired by, with a beefy 41mm case diameter. The case itself is gold-plated with both brushed and polished finishes and promises 100 meters of water resistance, should the wearer ever trade fire for its natural opponent. The diamond-cut dial wears a celebratory shade of aged champagne, which is paired with polished gold numerals and a gold bezel with black markers, creating a rather exclamatory visual profile, furthered by the date window at the 6 o’clock position, and the subdials (inspired by fire engine pump gauges) at 3 and 9. Underneath it all is a Sellita SW510 Chronograph movement, which promises a 48-ho...

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

Photo Report: the Perfection of Bay Area Car Meetups in November Worn & Wound
Dec 10, 2025

Photo Report: the Perfection of Bay Area Car Meetups in November

While the Eastern and Northern regions of the country start tucking their roadsters, cruisers, and drifters away in garages for the winter, West Coast car enthusiasts throw on some scarves and sweaters and keep the party going well through November and beyond. This month, I took my 1983 Volvo 240 DL to two shows, both of which touted an enormously diverse range of vehicles, people, and stories.  The first show is a regular event that many Bay Area car freaks have come to cherish as a curated but laid-back treasure of a show, with an incredible backdrop. Held once a month right next to the beautiful Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Marin Civic Center in San Rafael, the Pre-Stage Automotive Gathering, run by the ever-creative folks at Breakfast Club Rally and catered by Red Whale Coffee, brings hundreds of people and dozens of cars together for an early morning gathering that feels as welcoming as possible, every single time.  At each Pre-Stage, a themed section makes up the front of the lot; this month’s choice was pre-2000 BMW M cars, which always creates a buzz of fanaticism and Instagram opportunity. E30s and E36s (and a handful of their predecessors) battled for photogenic supremacy and attracted the gazes of wishful-thinking teenagers and wistful old timers alike.  The rest of the lot is open to all, and BCR really does mean all. My Volvo was joined by several other Swedish bricks, Mercedes coupes from the 1950s onwards, more Porsche 911 generations than you can keep a...

Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dials to their Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dec 2, 2025

Baltic Adds New Prismic Stone Dials to their Permanent Collection

Baltic’s Prismic line always felt like it existed to capitalize on the stone dial trend. When the watch debuted in early 2024, the French brand’s take on the classic “cocktail watch” seemed like it was pulled from a confluence of all the forces pushing against the vintage inspired sports watch boom that preceded it. The Prismic is a small, aesthetics first, design oriented piece, about as anti tool watch as they come. Those first Prismic releases did not have stone dials, but a later set of limited editions did, and that’s when this watch really clicked into place for many of us. Now, with those LEs long gone, Baltic has introduced a new line of stone dial Prismics that will be part of the permanent collection.  The new Prismic Stone collection arrives to celebrate the opening of Baltic’s first boutique, just as the previous LEs were released to celebrate the opening of showrooms in New York, London, and Paris. The four dial options make use of stones that are not common in watchmaking: Pietersite, Pink Albite, Bloodstone, and Dumortierite. Like all stone dials, each individual piece will be unique. The standout, in my opinion, is the Pietersite dial. This is a truly dynamic stone, and looks like something that could have been ejected from an active volcano just minutes ago. Bloodstone has a dark green hue with inclusions of brown and red, and could be seen as an alternative to the more commonly used malachite. Similarly, Dumortierite has a dark blue tone that...

What is a Chronometer Watch? A Guide to Ultra-Precise Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 28, 2025

What is a Chronometer Watch? A Guide to Ultra-Precise Watches

When a watch touts on its dial that it is a "Chronometer" or an "Officially Certified Chronometer" or even a "Superlative Chronometer," what exactly does that mean? How does a chronometer watch differ from a watch that does not make that claim? For that matter, a newbie to the timepiece game might ask, what is the difference between a watch with "chronometer" on the dial and a watch with "chronograph" on the dial? In this comprehensive guide, we attempt to answer all of your burning questions about chronometer watches and what sets them apart. [toc-section heading="The Chronometer Throughout History"] Our original, classical definition of a chronometer can be traced back to the golden age of seafaring exploration in the 18th Century, when ships required the use of a highly accurate onboard clock that enabled their navigators to determine longitude in order to avoid the perils of running aground or veering hopelessly off course. The man credited with developing the first of these “marine chronometers” was legendary British watchmaker John Harrison; his invention facilitated the celestial navigation used at the time by navigators at sea to determine their ship’s position in coordination with a sextant. Marine chronometers, which were essentially highly accurate clocks mounted on gimbals inside wooden boxes, were among the first portable timepieces and were instrumental in the global seagoing trade that helped build our modern, interconnected world. Ulysse Nardin, foun...

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Intelligent Watch Winder Nov 25, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Intelligent Watch Winder Sets the Calendar

Audemars Piguet unveiled the unexpected at Dubai Watch Week: an intelligent watch winder created in collaboration with Dubai Future Labs. Designed specifically for the brand’s latest perpetual calendar calibre, the device uses computer vision, a motorised arm, and Bluetooth connectivity to wind the watch, read the dial, and set all calendar indications automatically. It’s a curious blend of haute horlogerie and consumer robotics. Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars have long bedeviled collectors and after-sales service departments alike. Often tedious to reset after non-use, they can break or bind if adjusted at the wrong time. In the past couple of decades, this problem has been largely solved by watchmakers like Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, Stephen McDonnell, Andreas Strehler, Greubel Forsey, F.P. Journe, and most recently by Audemars Piguet. Given that Audemars Piguet is among the names that have developed a fool-proof perpetual calendar, the intelligent watch winder seems like a solution in search of a problem. The choice of the launch platform is also puzzling. On one hand, I understand why Audemars Piguet would develop the winder for its new cal. 7138; it makes sense to promote the new product. But on the other hand, the box would be far more useful if it worked for the brand’s earlier generations of perpetual calendars, which are more liable to break from improper use and need to be adjusted using pushers in the case. There are also many more of them in circulation, ...

Best Hiking Watches: Eight Options For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 19, 2025

Best Hiking Watches: Eight Options For Every Budget

In daily modern living, watches have been somewhat divorced from their original tool roots, usurped by the convenience and ease of the smartphones most of us carry around at all times. But there are certain situations in which a watch can rise to the occasion and offer a steadfast reliability that a phone with a dwindling battery life cannot, especially when there’s no power outlet in sight. Hiking, trekking, or generally going off the grid is the exact scenario I’m talking about. Today, I’m going to be breaking down options to find the best hiking watch for your next trip up a mountain (or for your next stay at a campground), with options at a range of price points, styles, and functions to help you find the best fit for you. Though I’m not a hiker by any means, watches, I do know. Down below, I’ve gathered up some of the best hiking watches on the market today that I would confidently recommend to any of my outdoorsy friends for their next trip into the great outdoors.  [toc-section heading="Casio PRJB001B-2"] Case: 46mm Material: Resin Water Resistance: 100 meters Caliber: Tough Solar quartz Price: $180  I’m going to kick off this list with something a bit unconventional and with a whole lot of quirk, which also happens to be one of my favorites, with Casio’s PRJB001B-2. There are a lot of things going on here that I haven’t seen on any other field-oriented watches. Most notably, we have the super-unique strap, which combines a more traditional cloth b...

Ressence Introduces a Type 1° with a Touch of Gold for Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ressence Introduces Nov 18, 2025

Ressence Introduces a Type 1° with a Touch of Gold for Dubai Watch Week

Dubai Watch Week is here, and with it, so are a lot of new watches. Ressence is marking the moment with a new limited edition take on their Type 1°, pairing what is maybe the most core model in their lineup with a rose gold-plated dial to create something that feels both familiar and novel all at once. Produced in a limited edition of 70 pieces worldwide, this is the Ressence Type 1°RG. Ressence, as a brand, is many things to many people. For some, it’s a colorful, exuberant exploration of the fun side of independent watches - a very high-end G-SHOCK of sorts, a balm for the soul weighed down far too often by the staid and serious watches that so often clog our Instagram feeds. For others, Ressence is that staid, serious watch; a brand pushing to the extremes of what a watch can be, exploring not just the complexities of modern watchmaking, but challenging the very nature of how time can be displayed and perceived. Naturally, each of these slightly pretentiously phrased extremes captures only a part of the whole; like most things, the reality of Ressence falls somewhere in the middle of these two perspectives. Still, Ressence is a brand that deservedly invites interest, and this latest release is no exception. In practice, the Type 1° is the prototypical Ressence, a pretty straightforward summation of what it takes to be a Ressence watch, and, as such, it has often served as a platform for the brand to play with its own aesthetic. In the past, we’ve seen Ressence ...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 17, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin Onyx is German Formal

One of the last launches of 2025 for A. Lange & Söhne, the Saxonia Thin Onyx is a riff on the brand’s most affordable and simplest watch. It’s only modestly different from the standard model – the dial is onyx stone while the case metal isn’t part of regular production – but the Saxonia Thin Onyx stands out. The watch is almost the dictionary definition of a formal-wear timepiece: flat, two hands and minimal colour or embellishment, so much so it blends into conventional Western formal dress. In fact, this is one of the strongest offerings in the formal-dress-watch segment because it is stark, elegant, and priced well. Initial thoughts Lange tend towards the high end of the price spectrum simply because of the brand’s focus on complications and quality. And the brand has also raised retail prices significantly in the last few years. So an affordable-ish Lange that isn’t a run-of-the-mill watch is a good thing. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is exactly that. While it is based on Lange’s entry-level dress watch, a fine but no frills timepiece, the onyx edition is different in look, feel, and materials. It’s available in two metals not offered for the regular production – platinum and Honeygold – and the dial is of course onyx, a mineral stone used sparingly (so far) in limited editions. At 6.2 mm high, the case is half the thickness of a Datograph and sits flat against the wrist. Though the case is 40 mm rather than the smaller size offered for the standard mod...

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date SJX Watches
Seiko Epson Nov 17, 2025

Viridian Starfall: Orient Star’s M34 F8 Date

Among Japan’s best-kept secrets, Orient Star occupies an intriguing middle ground between tradition and technology. Its latest creation, the Orient Star M34 F8 Date Green, captures that duality perfectly by combining an old-school movement with state-of-the-art dial and escapement components drawn from the vast capabilities of its parent company, Seiko Epson. The result is a watch that feels distinctly Japanese in both spirit and execution. The M34’s new green dial is embossed with a hand-engraved stamp and coated with an optical multi-layer film that creates shifting hues without a trace of pigment - an effect more often associated with much costlier watches. Beneath its shimmering surface lies Orient Star’s enduring in-house F8 movement, which continues a lineage that dates back to 1971.   Initial thoughts The dial of the M34 immediately distinguishes it within its segment. Its engraved texture, embossed from a hand-engraved die, gives the surface a natural radiance, while the iridescent green tone - created through a PVD-applied optical multi-layer film - shifts fluidly under changing light. It’s a distinctly upmarket look that signals the depth of the Epson manufacturing ecosystem behind it. The case reflects that same industrial prowess, made entirely in-house within Seiko Epson’s facilities, using 316L stainless steel finished with Sallaz (more commonly known as ‘Zaratsu’) polishing to achieve distortion-free mirrored bevels. The 40 mm size and ...

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Illuminates Nov 13, 2025

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...

Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date Worn & Wound
Nov 11, 2025

Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Brown is a divisive color; get it right, and it can make whatever it adorns seem luxurious, rich, and warm. Get it wrong or pair it with a color that doesn’t go well with earth tones, and you end up with something either dull or downright ugly. Fortunately, German watchmaker Hanhart has gone the right route when designing their 417 ES Mocha Flyback date, with a naming convention and brown and silver color pairing that conjures cafes on a rainy day. Made in collaboration with the Porsche Fahrer magazine, the Mocha Flyback is actually a handsomely-masked nod to motorsport, albeit with a coffee-centric aesthetic twist. The 42mm stainless steel case measures in at 49.75mm lug-to-lug, with a smooth stainless steel bezel, and a crown at the 3 o’clock position. Flanking the crown are two pushers-one matching steel at 2 o’clock, and one in a daring HyCeram red at 4. The red pusher is the sole deviation from the moody brown and silver design, and the first indication of the Mocha Flyback’s infatuation with speeding automobiles. It’s not just for optics, either; the bright red is a hallmark of flyback watches, intended to warn pilots (or race car drivers) before they accidentally reset the stop timer. The dial is a deep mocha brown, with two subdials inset at 3 and 9 o’clock for small seconds and 30-minute counter functionality; a date window sits at 6, replacing the numeral. Around the dial is a military-esque minute track, echoing the pilot watch origin of the model....

Why Watches Use IIII Roman Numerals Instead Of IV Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 10, 2025

Why Watches Use IIII Roman Numerals Instead Of IV

Watches with Roman numerals on the dial are among the most stylish and classically elegant of timepieces, despite the fact that most of them have what we might today refer to as an egregious typo. Then again, it’s not really a typo if it’s intentional, right? And the use of a "IIII" in place of the standard Roman numeral "IV" is clearly a conscious decision, as it's been commonplace for centuries. In this article, we offer some possibilities as to why. As anyone familiar with the Roman alphabet knows - and nowadays that probably includes anyone who pays attention to Super Bowl advertising - the Arabic numerals 1, 2, and 3 are rendered, respectively, as I, II, and III, but the format changes with the numeral 4, which is rendered as “IV,” and 5, which is simply “V.” Without getting too bogged down in an ancient alphabetization lesson, the first three numerals after zero (and after 5) are additive, while the one before the next major character, representing 5, is subtractive: “IV” stands for 4 because it’s five (V) minus one (I). And yet, take a glance at just about any watch dial, or clock dial, for that matter, that uses Roman numerals to denote its hours and most often you will find not a “IV” but a “IIII” - the so-called “clockmaker’s 4,” which differs from the Roman numeral we’re familiar with today.  Making watches, as any aficionado knows, is one of the most meticulous, time-intensive, and detail-oriented pursuits in the world...

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890 SJX Watches
Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No 1890 Nov 7, 2025

Hands On: Breguet Four-Minute Tourbillon No. 1890

In the coming weekend, one of the most important watches of this auction season will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Breguet’s 250th anniversary thematic sale November 9 – Breguet no. 1890, a pocket watch with tourbillon and natural escapement made by the firm by Breguet while Abraham-Louis Breguet himself still helmed the company. The gilt dial with a regulator-style layout might seem familiar – the recent Classique 7225 reproduces this dial design. In fact, Breguet no. 1890 isn’t the only watch in this style; it belongs to a series of pocket watches all equipped with a four-minute tourbillon and échappement naturel from the early 19th century that were among the finest watches of the time. Breguet built just eight four-minute tourbillons with natural escapement, all of which thankfully survive, and only three with gold dials. King George III ordered the most famous example – almost identical to this watch – during the Napoleonic wars. For context, that would be like Churchhill (who owned a Breguet himself) ordering an A. Lange & Söhne watch during the Second World War. As such, it was signed Recordon, Breguet’s London agent, to disguise its French origins. Whirling About Regulator Almost 225 years ago, the French Ministry of the Interior granted A.-L. Breguet a patent for his most famous creation, the tourbillon – a clever exercise in lateral thinking. For a mechanical watch to keep the same time across all vertical positions the combined balance, st...

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches Fratello
Minase Nov 3, 2025

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches

Tokyo-based artist Towa Takaya creates pigments from soil, plants, and minerals gathered during her travels, which she then uses to craft watch dials. Now, Minase is introducing handcrafted Yusai dials made by her for its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, and Divido watches. Takaya’s goal is to create a dial showing the essence of nature […] Visit Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches to read the full article.