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Time+Tide
When you look closer at this Patek Philippe annual calendar, its seemingly perfect symmetry begins to unravel - as opined by a self-professed nitpicker.The post Why Patek Philippe’s latest annual calendar is a stickler’s dream (or nightmare) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
In the world of watches, as with pretty much every niche of consumer goods, brands begin to become associated with the things that receive the most praise and attention. While the hyped watches in question undoubtedly earn the adoration of the masses for many reasons, whether it be their unique historical context, utility, or just plain and simple great looks, there are many other watches that get relegated to the sidelines that deserve another look. Since I personally love to root for an underdog, I wanted to take some time to shine a spotlight on some watches from the big popular watch brands that we know and love that often get lost in the shadows cast by the more popular catalog compatriots. From Rolex and Omega to Tudor and beyond, below you’ll find watches that deserve a little more love than they typically get. Rolex 1908 I’m beginning with the watch that has quite literally been relegated to the bottom of Rolex’s own website with the Rolex 1908. Given that this is the most dressy model within The Crown’s contemporary collection, I would argue that it's also the watch that flies under the radar the most. The 1908 isn’t something that you spot across the room at a crowded restaurant or at a bar and immediately clock as a Rolex watch, which is ultimately why I find it endearing. It’s something that needs to be appreciated up close and personal. The world's most popular watch brand has made recent attempts to breathe some new life into the Rolex 1908 with...
Monochrome
Is there anything new to say about the origins of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak? As the watch marked its 50th Anniversary in 2022, countless stories, insights, and personal accounts surfaced worldwide, deepening our understanding and enriching watchmaking culture. Yet to kick off today’s look into the ultra-thin 39mm “Jumbo” editions of this legendary series, […]
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: Earlier this week, Rolex held an event in New York City to showcase their latest 2025 releases. We saw most of these watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders a few months ago, but this was the first time going hands-on with the latest from Rolex for Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones. These are their reactions and impressions, as well as a whole bunch of photos (with natural light!) from Garrett. Devin Pennypacker: There is a saying that gets murmured around the start of Watches and Wonders: The show goes as Rolex goes. This year, however, I was left with a feeling that Rolex was chasing trends rather than setting them for the first time in a long while. New announcements saw them leaning into pastel colors, stone dials, and even integrated bracelets to highlight their 2025 collection. To put it mildly, I was disappointed that there wasn’t immediately a model that stuck out to me as a winner of the bunch. That being said, I also didn’t have the opportunity to go hands-on with the new collection, so every thought was mere speculation. During a recent event in New York, I had the chance to spend some time with many of the new releases, form genuine opinions, and model the watches for our photography by Garrett Jones. Afterwards, Garret and I sat down to discuss a few releases we had time with, delivering our thoughts and feelings towards some of the collection, which we will have staggered below. As always, please leave your takes on these new releases ...
Worn & Wound
Originally released in 1957 as part of Omega’s “Professional Line” trilogy, the Railmaster joined the Seamaster and Speedmaster as the brand’s offerings to professionals in railway, automotive racing, and ocean diving, respectively. Where it lacked in naming convention creativity, the original Railmaster excelled in innovation, with anit-magnetic properties that were, at the time, jaw-droppingly effective, protecting the watch from magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, where other pieces tended to cap out at 60 gauss. It’s no surprise, then, that the Professional Line trio has remained among Omega’s most popular and iconic models, and 2025 sees the launch of two new stainless steel Railmaster models. Both new Railmasters measure in at 38mm in diameter and wear all-new gradient dials. The first variant bears no text details save for the Omega logo below the 12 numeral and the Railmaster name in script above the 6, with a gray dial that fades into a black gradient. The second option shakes it up with a beige-into-black dial that squishes the Omega logo and Railmaster logo together under the 12, and places a small seconds subdial above the 6. Both models feature Super-Luminova on the numerals, indexes, and hands, and come on a leather strap-black for the gray-to-black model and Novonappa brown for the beige-to-black version-or a stainless steel bracelet. Inside, Omega’ Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8806 movement proves that it’s leaps and boun...
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Monochrome
Few brands can look back on a history in aviation timekeeping as Longines. The brand’s archive is as broad as it is deep, with names like Weems, Lindbergh and Majetek being just the tip of the iceberg. Today, Longines looks back in time yet again to celebrate a century of the Zulu, a name linked […]
Monochrome
In 2024, TAG Heuer went back to complications and expanded the Monaco collection with a split-second chronograph in blue and racing red. Following the presentation of a bold F1 red-and-white limited edition at Watches and Wonders, we now see the fourth iteration of the concept, this time innovating through materials. Meet the all-new TH Titanium […]
Monochrome
The TAG Heuer Monaco needs little to no introduction. Launched in 1969, this distinctive square-shaped chronograph emerged during the golden age of motor racing. At that time, Heuer was renowned for its chronographs, stopwatches and dashboard instruments, integral to motorsport timing. In the same period, in a collaboration with other makers, Heuer presented one of […]
SJX Watches
Initially launched as a unique piece in a crystallized titanium case for Only Watch 2023, the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph was then added to the catalog, most recently as a limited edition in ceramic. Now the model returns in its original crystallized titanium livery, accented in lime green. Under the hood is a high-beat Vaucher chronograph movement, also used by Parmigiani Fleurier and Richard Mille. The split-seconds is the flagship of the Monaco collection, impressive inside and out – with a price to match – but seemingly runs counter to the brand’s established direction of affordable sports watches. Initial Thoughts The latest iteration of the Monaco split-seconds is the best yet, price aside. The variants of the model released between the one-off for Only Watch and this felt incomplete without the crystallized titanium case. The material is visually and technically interesting, and its resemblance to forged carbon fits the automotive theme; lime green accents notwithstanding, it’s a good-looking watch. Image – TAG Heuer A rattrapante is a natural fit for an auto racing-focused brand like TAG Heuer, but the ambitious CHF145,000 price is confusing, given TAG Heuer’s efforts toward making the Swiss-made tourbillon affordable. The Monaco split-seconds itself is excellent – the movement especially so – but an affordable rattrapante would be more in line with the brand’s recent direction. While the base movement is shared with costlier Richar...
Time+Tide
TH-Titanium is the latest development to come from TAG Heuer's labs.The post TAG Heuer unveils the ultimate Monaco in the ultimate material for the eponymous Grand Prix appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
It's taken nearly a decade, but it's finally here! Bulova have listened to watch enthusiasts and delivered the smallest Lunar Pilot yet in a 41mm size. But why has it taken so long? And what are the differences compar...
Monochrome
D… and S…. two simple letters that, when put together, mean the world to Certina. They indicate the brand’s famous Double Security system, used to waterproof its watches for over 6 decades. Introduced in 1959, the technology behind the system to increase a watch’s resilience is still in use today, even though it now benefits […]
Fratello
The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 marks the 100th anniversary of the Swiss brand’s world-first dual-time wristwatch. You can’t say the rectangular timepiece from 1925 served as an inspiration from a design perspective, but it did in spirit (sorry about that). By adding a rose-gold-capped bezel insert with engraved numbers and indexes, the look […] Visit Introducing: The 2025 Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 - Celebrating A Century Of Longines Dual-Time Watches to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Tamim Almousa has always maintained that lume is the least impressive part of any luxury watch. If you want to get a sense of just how unimpressive it is, try explaining it to a layman and see how long you last before inevitably describing it as “glow-in-the-dark paint.”
Worn & Wound
Backbone Media has been a long-standing force in the outdoor industry as a media and PR agency representing some of our most beloved gear brands. Each spring they bring a curated selection of their clients to NYC for their 2025 Spring Showcase. The Worn & Wound team was on the scene and here are 3 standout products that we’re especially excited about. Matador Pops and Locks with the BetaLock Locking Carabiner Carabiners and locks are both crucial pieces in our travel kit, but carrying a lock is a drag. Locks are cumbersome, slow to use, uninspired, and often get left behind as a result. The BetaLock was designed to address exactly that. It works perfectly as a rugged EDC carabiner and transitions seamlessly into a theft-deterring lock at the turn of a key. It’s lightweight and multi-use so there’s no reason to leave it behind. The most effective lock is the one you have on-hand when you need it. We were also pretty pumped on Matador’s GlobeRider35, which is designed and built for world travel, loaded with organization and an outdoor inspired carry harness for all-day comfort. This pack paired perfectly with the BetaLock. YETI Gets Tough as Iron with Cast Iron Skillets At the show, we also learned that YETI-known for its coolers, insulated water bottles, and more recently, its backpacks and travel bags-has come out with their own line of cast iron skillets as well. Ranging in size from 8 to 14 inches in diameter, these pans come polished and preseasoned, creatin...
Monochrome
While all eyes were focused on the release of the new Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection, Rolex had a sumptuous surprise up its sleeve. Introduced in 2023 to replace (well, not officially, but still…) the Cellini collection, the elegant Perpetual 1908 premier dress watch returned to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a gold bracelet. Not any […]
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I did it again!! I bought myself another 1680 Red Sub. I think at this point I need to go to therapy. LOL
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/05/TUDOR_PEL-ULTRA_003_web.jpg)
Worn & Wound
Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this. For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable. The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of ...
SJX Watches
With the recent election of Pope Leo XIV-the first American and Augustinian pontiff-a rare opportunity arises to revisit one of the most intriguing intersections between horology and the papacy. While much attention has historically centered on Pope Leo XIII’s Jubilee in 1888, when Patek Philippe crafted commemorative watches for the occasion, the relationship between watchmaking and the Vatican stretches further back, rooted in the values and vision of Patek Philippe’s co-founder, Antoine Norbert de Patek. A devout Catholic and Polish émigré, Patek viewed watchmaking not merely as a commercial enterprise but as a moral and cultural calling. His personal faith and longstanding connection to the Catholic Church helped shape the company’s enduring ties to religious institutions, most notably the Vatican. This ethos of sacred precision and spiritual patronage found material expression in a number of papal commissions, the most prominent of which emerged during the reign of Leo XIII. Complementing Patek Philippe’s contributions, Vacheron Constantin also played a significant role in this narrative. In collaboration with Parisian retailer Ratel, they produced devotional timepieces that transcended mere functionality, serving as instruments of spiritual reflection. These watches, rich in symbolism and craftsmanship, further exemplify the deep connections between horology and the papacy. Papal Precedents: The Watches of Pius IX Before Leo XIII’s Jubilee, the tradit...
Time+Tide
The Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve raises the bar for Square Bangs, debuting an architectural, shaped movement.The post Who says squares are boring? Hublot’s latest Square Bang has a tourbillon twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2012, Tudor unveiled its action-ready diver, capable of surviving depths up to a whopping 500 meters (that’s over 1,640 feet) with the Pelagos. To achieve that extensive depth rating, for many, the necessary tradeoff came with the 42mm sizing that the Pelagos debuted, which is the caveat made with the inclusion of a helium escape valve to make the case more secure in deeper diving excursions. In the years since its release, Tudor has riffed upon the Pelagos in various ways, even including teaming up with the French Marine Nationale to create the FXD extension on the line, and recently, throwing in a GMT complication into the mix. And let's not forget this year's Pelagos Ultra. But we are gathered here today to take a good, long look at the Pelagos many asked for, with the more versatile-sized Tudor Pelagos 39. Despite listening to the audience and essentially delivering what they ordered on a silver platter, the Pelagos 39mm has largely remained in the shadow of the brand’s golden child, the Black Bay 58. When comparing the two, there’s a lot of common ground between the two watches on the surface: they’re of comparable size (the Pelagos 39mm is actually .1mm slimmer), identical levels of water resistance at 200m, and the price difference between the two is under $1,000, which doesn’t seem incredibly significant given the Pelagos 39mm is all in Titanium, which always more costly. So, what is the secret sauce that the Black Bay 58 has that the Pelagos lack...
Monochrome
MeisterSinger’s single-handed watches have won over legions of followers and countless design awards. Based in Münster, Germany, the idea behind Manfred Brassler’s brand was to offer an alternative to hyper-precision time consultations with a more approximate and relaxed approach to telling the time. In a somewhat unexpected move for a brand associated with classic, elegant […]
Video
This watch is destined to become a future classic. This is the Hermès H08. The case is satin-brushed titanium coated with matte black DLC, so it’s lightweight and durable but with a stealthy aesthetic. And it’s i...
SJX Watches
Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction encompasses excellent complications at a range of price points. Highlights at the top end include the controversial Patek Philippe ref. 3448 “Senza Luna”, a massive Jaeger-LeCoultre exotic tourbillon, a skeletonized Credor chronograph, and a special-order Patek Philippe that was presumably a gift from parent to son. Also on the block are fine pocket watches for the Chinese market on the first day of the sale, while the second and third sale days include notable examples of independent watchmaking. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX takes place from May 23-25, 2025. The full catalogue, and more, is available on Phillips.com. Lot 839 – A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split In 2004, A. Lange & Söhne introduced the Double Split, a chronograph with both split-seconds and split-minutes–a feat previously only accomplished in pocket watches. Never one to stand still, Lange added split-hours into the mix with the Triple Split in 2018. The case is the brand’s typical fare, with distinctive stepped-out lugs, and continues its tradition of placing the split-button in the case band, rather than in the crown, as is the convention for wristwatches. This rose gold variation, of which only 100 were made, is matched with a handsome blue and silver dial. To create the Double Split, Lange built on the landmark L951 movement of the Datograph, adding a pair of rattrapante mechanisms, one for seconds and the other, minutes. From there, Lange added an hour...
Monochrome
The Horology Club, founded in Hong Kong and boasting around 800 members, is now expanding with the creation of a European chapter. This is an opportunity to have a conversation with the founder of The Horology Club Europe, Frank Smits, about the goals pursued as “watch clubs” are spreading worldwide. While brands are focusing on […]
Monochrome
In 2022, the Lengnau watchmaker Delma returned the Montego, a bold, versatile chronograph with a racing-inspired edge defined by its prominent external tachymeter scale. Built as a genuine sports watch, it’s ready for adventure on land or underwater, thanks to its robust 200m water resistance. Initially launched in four dial colours, white, black, green, and […]
Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair is all about what makes this hobby great: passionate communities, hands-on experiences, and a chance to discover something new. This year’s San Francisco edition checked every box, delivering an unforgettable weekend of horological energy, Bay Area vibes, and the best of watches and everyday carry. Thanks to our lead sponsors-anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris,and, of course, you, our readers and extended Worn & Wound family, Windup SF 2025 was one for the books. Back at the Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason on Pier 2, the venue once again proved itself a perfect stage. With a wide-open two-level floorplan and sweeping views of the bay, over 90 watch and EDC brands set up shop, creating a space where enthusiasts could get up close with everything from microbrand gems to industry heavyweights. And it was packed with action. The Panel & Podcast Room buzzed with live talks and behind-the-scenes conversations. We unveiled exclusive drops, including the Bulova Snorkel Edition-made just for the show-alongside special events like Bulova’s 150th anniversary documentary screening at the Alamo Drafthouse in the Mission. Christopher Ward brought the premiere of Freewheelin’, their new documentary on the innovative C12 Loco, with North American Brand Director Mike Pearson and Senior Designer Will Brackfield on hand to dive into the story behind the design. The ever-growing EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC also turned heads. Th...
Worn & Wound
Would you expect anything less from MB&F; on their 20th anniversary than the launch of an entirely new collection? The independent brand founded by Max Büsser has spent the last two decades confounding expectations, delighting enthusiasts and collectors along the way with some of the brazen and creative watch designs of the modern era. The brand’s influence and importance on the modern independent watch scene really can’t be overstated. To date, MB&F; releases have existed on two distinct tracks: the LM or “Legacy Machine” collection, which represents Max Büsser’s idea of a classical watchmaking style (think circular cases, classical complications, and a generally traditional if sometimes highly complex readout of the time), and the HM, or “Horological Machine” collection, which can be described as pure, maximalist creativity. This is where you see watches shaped like dogs, and spaceships, with time read in unusual and unexpected ways. While you’d think that working within two collections in this manner (particularly where one is seemingly unbound by traditional watchmaking rules) Max and his team would have the freedom to create just about anything they set their mind to. In reality, of course, there are always projects that don’t reach the finish line for one reason or another. The SP One (SP is short for “Special Projects”) represents an entirely new product category for MB&F; with the promise of reviving these projects and creating entirely new one...
Video
You can always rely on Patek Philippe bringing the heat to Watches & Wonders, especially when one of the brand's most sought-after watches is celebrating its anniversary. With the legendary Nautilus turning 50 this ye...
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