Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Ep 104: The Isolation Tapes // TGN Bookclub
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far
We may only be three months into 2020, but Seiko is dropping new novelties like the world could end tomorrow … which, given the current state of affairs, does feel ever so slightly plausible. Anyway, I know what you’re thinking: “enough of the doom and gloom, what about the watches?” Well, the Japanese watchmaker has … ContinuedThe post The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Weekend Watch Spotting - Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition
This weekend we were lucky enough to be visited by the fantastic team from the Horological Society of New York, who were in Australia offering watchmaking classes to a few very passionate Melburnians. It was an evening that also celebrated the incredible generosity of the watch community at large, which was shown through the recent … ContinuedThe post Weekend Watch Spotting – Very rare Rolex spotted in the HSNY Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal
The week before last, three members of the T+T team went on a national roadshow. Though, in reality, it was more of an airshow, considering we covered more than a lazy 10,000km in six days. The goal was to meet members of the Time+Tide Club in their own cities. It was a magical mystery tour … ContinuedThe post What is it with Perth and Daytonas? Glenn explains his ‘unusual’ 116500LN in the days after Horology House scandal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“Watch & Act!” Auction Item - Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth?
Hodinkee’s extraordinary run of sold-out limited edition models only became more of a water-cooler conversation topic when the 250-run of the Oris Divers Sixy-Five Limited Edition for Hodinkee was released, to be sold out in less than 10 minutes. The team generously offer one of their own brand new archive models of the highly sought … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 2: The hardest Oris to get on earth? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic?
We’re not even a month into 2020 but already Bulgari has released a collection of stunning new references in the Octo Finissimo range, with two standout pieces in steel and ceramic. But which piece is more compelling? The team share their thoughts. James Robinson – Team Steel The biggest news, by far, coming out of … ContinuedThe post Is the new Bulgari Octo Finissimo better in steel or ceramic? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review
Despite recent turbulent times (pun intended #avgeek), under the guidance of Georges Kern and team, Breitling has re-established itself with a robust and cohesive line up of watches. Today, we take a closer look at a staple of the “air collection”, The Avenger, but more specifically, a newer addition, The Blackbird. Designed to be sleek and stealthy, this particular Breitling is a little different to the usual polished steel cases usually offered. CASE: Titanium has certainly gained popularity in recent years. Breitling went one step further and went full stealth mode, coating the large 48mm case (before you stop reading, there’s a 44mm option also), with “a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment,” aka DLC coating from what I’ve researched. While large in diameter, case thickness of 14.8mm and a lug width of 24mm (tapers to buckle), it’s surprisingly comfortable on wrist. The curved lugs combined with a canvas strap, allows the wearer to anchor down the watch, while the flat, untreated, screw-down caseback ensures a low profile is maintained. The 60 minutes, unidirectional bezel is smooth in operation and clicks into position cleanly. On the media model shown, there was a small amount of back-play; however, I’m confident this would be corrected by the small retaining screws found around the bezel edging. Inside, keeping time is the Breitling B17 movement (a base ETA 2892-A2) that is CSOSC certified, with 42hrs of flight time. The knurled,...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith El Primero Defy 21 Carbon
Zenith’s streak of high-tech watches – including this year’s Defy Inventor and El Primero Double Tourbillon – began in 2017, when it unveiled the El Primero Defy 21. The watch is a chronograph with a dual-train construction that accommodates a high-frequency chronograph with a resolution of 1/100th of a second and a lightning seconds hand that whizzes round the dial once a second. Originally offered only in ceramic, titanium or gold, the high-frequency chronograph is available in a featherweight carbon composite case – arguably best suited to its styling and complication – with the launch of the El Primero Defy 21 Carbon. A familiar style The unusual movement of the Defy 21 is inspired by the similar constructed movement in the TAG Heuer Mikrograph, one of many high-frequency chronographs devised by Guy Sémon, the resident technical guru at TAG Heuer, a sister company of Zenith. Notably, the Mikrograph and the Defy 21 are the only serially produced, 1/100th of a second chronographs on the market today. Due to the movement’s dual-train architecture – essentially two independent movements on one base plate – the case is a large 44mm in diameter and 14.4mm high. But being carbon composite, it manages to remain lightweight despite the size. At the same time, the predominantly black colour scheme across the case and dial also makes the watch look smaller than it is, especially compared with versions of the Defy 21 in gold or titanium. Visually, the case i...
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph “Blue Angels”
Having recently coming a licensee of the U.S. Navy Flight Demonstration Squadron, better known as the Blue Angels, IWC is marking the occasion with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels”. Already the longtime licensee for the U.S. Navy Fighter Weapons School – hence the Pilot’s Watch Top Gun editions – IWC is the latest watchmaker to sign with the Blue Angels. The team has had several watchmakers become licensees over the years, first Breitling in the 1990s, followed by Citizen. The new Blue Angels chronograph is in blue and yellow, the colours of the Blue Angels’ emblem. The dial is a dark, metallic blue with a yellow track for the hours. The case is in matte black ceramic and measures 44.5mm wide. The Blue Angels logo engraved on the back Inside is the cal. 89361, the brand’s top of the line, in-house chronograph. It’s an automatic movement with IWC’s signature Pellaton winding mechanism. The chronograph has both a flyback function as well as the hour and minute registers co-axial at 12 o’clock. Key facts and price Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Blue Angels” Ref. IW389008 Diameter: 44.5mm Height: 15.7mm Material: Black ceramic Water resistance: 60m Movement: Cal. 89361 Functions: Time, date, and flyback chronograph Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour, or 4Hz Power reserve: 68 hours Strap: Blue calfskin Limited edition: No Availability: From November 2019, at both boutiques and retailers Price: US$...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the Entirely Hand-Made Tourbillon Watch
The Hand Made 1 is a watch “95%” produced “using only hand-operated tools”, requiring some 6,000 hours, according to Greubel Forsey. That’s equivalent to three years of work, largely performed by a special team of watchmakers assembled by Greubel Forsey specifically for this project, along with independent specialists who produce certain components. Functionally, the Hand Made 1 is a straightforward timepiece – it shows the time, hours, minutes and seconds, and is equipped with a one-tourbillon regulator. The movement is made up of 272 parts, which is within the usual range for such a movement. The complexity of the watch comes from how it is made – by hand or by hand-operated tools – which is why only two to three examples will be produced per year. The genesis for the Hand Made 1 is the department within Greubel Forsey that produces prototypes, which are essentially one-off, hand-made watches. The same production techniques are applied to the Hand Made 1, except that they are taken to a far higher level, in order to create components that are produced with the same techniques as prototypes but to the same fit and finish as standard Greubel Forsey movements. So each screw is made on a manual lathe, and can take up to eight hours to complete. The case components are milled on a pantograph lathe, essentially a manually operated CNC machine that requires the operator to guide the cutting tool to by hand. And even the balance spring is rolled by a manua...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Klo & Co. Alpesailer
Having made its debut two years ago with a dual-dial watch that combined an automatic and quartz movement, Klo & Co. is an unusual “microbrand”, having been started by a trio of young Filipino watch enthusiasts. The Manila-based brand has just unveiled the Alpesailer, a steel sports watch with an internal rotating bezel and an integrated bracelet. Head-on, the Alpesailer clearly derived from Gerald Genta’s famous octagonal design – think of it as a “Super Compressor” style homage to the Royal Oak. That being said, the bezel is actually brushed and round on top, with a polished octagonal base, bringing to mind the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. While the watch wins no prizes for ingenious design, it’s well spec’ed and only US$400. Depth rated to 100m, the case measures 41mm wide and 12.5mm in height. It features a “Super Compressor” style design with an internal rotating bezel and twin crowns – one for winding and setting, the other for rotating the bezel. However, like most modern watches inspired by actual Super Compressor dive watches from the 1960s, this does not have the same, Super Compressor sealing technology pioneered by case maker Ervin Piquerez, which relied on a spring-loaded back that press against the case as external water pressure increased. While the twin-crown design remains attractive even today, advancements in the fabrication of cases, crystals and gaskets have made such sealing technology superfluous in a modern watch. The A...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue
As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...
Hodinkee
The Value Proposition: The Montblanc Heritage GMT
A classic travel watch that ticks all the right boxes.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark
Tudor has decided to honour its partnership with New Zealand’s All Blacks the only way it knows how … with a limited edition watch, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark. Made to not only pay tribute to the All Blacks’ illustrious history, which dates back to 1884, the Chrono Dark also celebrates the rugby team’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Astor + Banks Sea Ranger
A modern take on an everyday sport watch tuned for travel.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Monta Atlas
Monta's latest GMT is a handsome and reserved take on a versatile travel-ready watch.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG
First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: “Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies.” So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I’ll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The watches we bought because someone told us to
Editor’s note: Last year we did a team whip around and asked ourselves what watches we bought, not for us, but because other people told us we should. We might not like to admit it, but it’s true. So here we go, the watches we’ve bought because of peer pressure. Humans are, by and large, … ContinuedThe post The watches we bought because someone told us to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market
There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Chronograph Review
The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega were the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. Things changed however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from being a watch used to time sporting events, to being the watch Astronauts used for space travel? It all starts with a story about a man named Walter Schirra. Being an aviator and military pilot himself, he was about to embark on the Mercury-Atlas 8 Mission. As a way to possibly mark the momentous occasion, he went watch hunting (as any of us would without a doubt). Omega had established a position for itself and with the release of the eye-catching Speedmaster Chronograph, it would be safe to say that it more than caught Schirra’s attention. This would be the turning point in Speedmaster’s history as from this point forward, it would go onto do numerous space travel missions. The “Professional” name was added to the Speedmaster during the 1964-1965 period. The Speedmaster would further cement its legacy as NA...
Revolution
MB&F; Announces the Legacy Machine N°2 Red Gold Blue
Meta: Bearing one of the rarest of horological complications, MB&F; releases another limited edition of its dual regulator Legacy Machine N°2.
Deployant
Review: Bell & Ross BR V3-94 R.S.19
In the fourth year running, Bell & Ross and the Renault F1 team had came together to produce another series of R.S.19 timepieces.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #132 Traveling with Watches
You know, over these past couple years, our opinions on A LOT of things have changed. But what Michael and I didn't anticipate is our view on traveling with watches doing a total 180. Are "travel watches" real? Is whatever the hell watch you wear while traveling a "travel watch?" Or is the idea of a travel watch still alive and well?
Time+Tide
The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people
Editor’s note: In the pantheon of great watch performances on screen, Tom Hardy’s Omega in Dunkirk is up there. When I first saw the movie at an IMAX theatre in Melbourne, I was that idiot taking shots of the screen when it appeared. I had to know the story of the model – was it a vintage … ContinuedThe post The story of the Omega watch in Dunkirk is perfect Sunday reading for watch people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Read the debut issue of NOW - The Watch Buying Guide online … well, now
Last year we made our foray into the inky world of print with NOW – The Watch Buying Guide. A weighty tome that, in addition to shining a light on some interesting horological tales and factoids, also lived up to its promise - putting more than 200 of the best recent watch releases into one … ContinuedThe post Read the debut issue of NOW – The Watch Buying Guide online … well, now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Montblanc have their sights set on adventure with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere
Editor’s note: I’m on a bit of a travel watch trip at the moment. And, to my mind, they fall into two distinct camps: high-flyers and adventurers. Montblanc’s 1858 Geosphere, which is a few years old now, definitely falls into the latter category. Now, it’s up to you where on the roughing-it-to-luxury spectrum that adventure … ContinuedThe post Montblanc have their sights set on adventure with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Live from Baselworld 2019: Edox
Key collection for this year is the Skydiver Limited Edition 500 pcs. Vintage inspired by a 1973 commission by a para trooper. Case is 42mm enlarged from 38mm. SS with SS bracelet. Bi-directional rotating green aluminum bezel, 60 clicks per revolution. Automatic movement S$2,000. Comes with additional leather strap and travel pouch. In the picRead More
Time+Tide
LIST: Tudor’s teasers - Cam takes a few guesses
In case you were unaware (how is that rock you’ve been living under?), Baselworld 2019 is nearly upon us. So, while the rest of the team are currently en route to Basel, I’ve planted myself firmly behind each one of my digital detective devices and taken off in search of any and all clues as … ContinuedThe post LIST: Tudor’s teasers – Cam takes a few guesses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019
Visiting the team at H. Moser & Cie. is always one of the highlights of SIHH. You never quite know what you’re going to get. Well, that’s not quite true. You know you’re going to be in for some surprises. And seeing Moser at SIHH 2019 did not disappoint. We knew about the Nature Watch, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The hottest Moser watch releases of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OPINION: There are 3 types of watch wearers, which one are you?
Editor’s Note: Recently we learned that there are people in the world who buy and wear broken watches. In between all the head shaking, tut-tutting and ‘what’s the watch world coming to’ etc amongst the team, we reached a surprising point. We learned that while none of us falls into this desperate and strange new category, we are, in fact, all … ContinuedThe post OPINION: There are 3 types of watch wearers, which one are you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.