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Le Brassus

Vallée de Joux village that has been Audemars Piguet HQ since 1875; also home to APRP movement development.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Tribute to The Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Tribute Oct 29, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Tribute to The Quest of Time

Vacheron Constantin (VC) marks its 270th anniversary this year in grand style with La Quête Du Temps, a monumental, multi-complication clock weighing over 150 kg. A little more wearable is the Métiers d’Art Tribute to The Quest of Time, also a 270th anniversary edition but in wristwatch format. Like many of VC’s high complicated watches, Tribute to the Quest of Time is a double-faced wristwatch. On the front is a double retrograde time display that’s either on demand or en passant, which takes the form of a human figure whose arms tell the time. Also on the front is a spherical moon phase, while the back is home to an astronomical display comprising a sky chart and sidereal day indicator. Initial thoughts Tribute to the Quest of Time is a big complicated watch, and it looks and feels the part. In terms of dimensions and feel, it reminds me a little of the Lange Repeater Perpetual Calendar that was also launched this year. Even though small watches are on trend now, complicated watches like this should be large. This succeeds in that respect, and feels good on the wrist. Despite the mechanical complexity, the time is easy to read, though it takes a moment to get used to the twin scales for the time. The symmetrical dial on the front is straightforward and legible. The dial is tinted sapphire and etched with the constellations in the night sky over Geneva on the day VC was established, September 17, 1755. This is not obvious at a distance but reveals itself up close...

Introducing – The Hermès H08 Chronograph, Now in Naples Yellow Monochrome
Hermes Oct 27, 2025

Introducing – The Hermès H08 Chronograph, Now in Naples Yellow

Since formalising its modern manufacture capabilities (including a long-standing stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier), La Montre Hermès has developed a distinct vocabulary with typography that’s unmistakably Hermès. The H08 collection, launched in 2021, translated the approach into a daily-wear sports watch that felt designed rather than engineered. Its cushion case, graphic numerals, and mix of […]

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style Monochrome
Breguet Classique 7235 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The New Breguet Classique 7235, a Tribute to the Origins of the Breguet Style

Just after the introduction of the new Classique 7225, marking the return of the innovative magnetic pivot, Breguet releases another watch within its 250th anniversary collection. But this time, it’s not about shining a spotlight on one of the founder’s innovations, but rather to pay tribute to design principles defined by A.L. Breguet, to all […]

Introducing – The new Breguet Classique 7225, the Comeback of the 10Hz Chronometry Watch with Magnetic Pivot Monochrome
Breguet Classique 7225 Oct 23, 2025

Introducing – The new Breguet Classique 7225, the Comeback of the 10Hz Chronometry Watch with Magnetic Pivot

As you might already know as of now, Breguet is celebrating this year its 250th anniversary. And the brand is doing so by releasing watches that are either evolutions of emblematic models – such as the two stunning hand-wound Type XX – or paying tribute to the countless innovations of A.L. Breguet, for instance the […]

Long-Hidden Patek Philippe Watches Headline Sotheby’s NY Sale SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Watches Headline Sotheby’s NY Oct 21, 2025

Long-Hidden Patek Philippe Watches Headline Sotheby’s NY Sale

This December at its New York auction. Sotheby’s will bring one a hitherto secret collection of complicated Patek Philippe watches to market, The Olmsted Complications Collection. Accrued by late financier Robert M. Olmsted over six decades, the collection includes watches commissioned by the most prominent American collectors of the early 20th century, including Henry Graves Jr., Thomas E. Emery, James M. Morehead III, and Elliot C. Lee, some of which were completely unknown to the public until now. An “Extra” quality observatory watch made for Henry Graves Jr. It couldn’t be better timed either, with the flagship lot being a previously undocumented Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clock, just months after the brand launched its modern equivalent. Better still – at least for American bidders – these watches are already stateside, avoiding the hefty import taxes levied against Switzerland. In addition to rare and exotic pocket watches, the auction also makes room for a few watches with more mainstream appeal, including a Rolex ref. 6100 with a cloisonné enamel dragon dial. The Thomas E. Emery Desk Clock The headline lot is a Patek Philippe desk clock made for one Thomas Emery – the same client who commissioned Patek Philippe’s first wrist-borne perpetual calendar in 1925. Until now there were only two publicly known Patek Philippe perpetual calendar desk clocks, those made for James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. Like its siblings, Emery’s desk ...

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow Fratello
Hermes Oct 20, 2025

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow

Hermès surprised us a couple of years ago when the French fashion house launched a chronograph among its colorful time-and-date H08 editions. Stealth-launching products is not new for Hermès. The low-key tactic allows clients to discover new pieces for themselves without a deluge of flashy hype campaigns. The gentle marketing ripple in the brand’s horology […] Visit Introducing: The Hermès H08 Chronographe In Naples Yellow to read the full article.

Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Oct 15, 2025

Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection

Today, we’ll look at tasteful updates by Blancpain to its Villeret collection. Aside from the well-known Fifty Fathoms, these are the watches most people think of when considering the brand. After all, this collection was an integral part of Blancpain’s relaunch in the ’80s. For today, three models have been reinterpreted with golden-hour hues. Let’s […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection to read the full article.

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional SJX Watches
Urwerk s UR-10 Spacemeter Oct 15, 2025

Urwerk’s UR-10 Spacemeter is Sci-Fi and Almost Conventional

Known for its avant-garde approach to watchmaking, Urwerk takes a surprise detour into orthodoxy with the UR-10 Spacemeter. At least at first glance, it is a round(-ish) sports watch with an integrated bracelet – and normal hour and minutes hands – as well as indicators you’ll find on no other watch. But conceptually, the UR-10 Spacemeter is typical Urwerk. The indicators on the dial are all astronomy related, bringing to mind past Urwerk models and the brand’s sci-fi style. Initial Thoughts Oddly, I find I find myself more impressed with the UR-10 aesthetically than technically. Urwerk has cultivated a military, sci-fi aesthetic that I’ve become enamoured with, especially the EMC. And, if the UR-10 is anything like its similarly sized and braceleted peers, it will wear well too. Then there are the dials, with ideal typography, which sit under a sapphire bubble and remind me of a flush-mounted ship’s compass. The complications are inspired by an unusual 19th-century regulator clock by Gustave Sandoz, and attempt to track both the Earth’s rotation and revolution. An interesting idea, but the execution is disappointing as the indications aren’t particularly mathematically accurate and based on arbitrary distances, like 10 km, rather than natural phenomenon like, say, a sidereal time watch, where one rotation of a sidereal hour hand corresponds to one rotation of the Earth. However, Urwerk likes to develop ideas over time, and the Spacemeter concept has potent...

Introducing – The New Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold Monochrome
Massena Lab Chronographe Télémètre Oct 14, 2025

Introducing – The New Angelus x Massena LAB Chronographe Télémètre in Yellow Gold

Angelus and Massena LAB return with a second collaboration that once again leans hard into classic mid-century chronograph codes. After the first collaborative project, the 2023 Chronographe Médical, which reintroduced the brand’s vintage tool-watch spirit and the La Fabrique collection, and the recent Chronographe Télémètre established a small-case, hand-wound monopusher as a core design, the […]

An owner’s take on why the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Frosted Carbon is where the brand’s ‘Art of Fusion’ makes the most sense Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Oct 12, 2025

An owner’s take on why the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Frosted Carbon is where the brand’s ‘Art of Fusion’ makes the most sense

Jason Lee recently bought Hublot's latest carbon Spirit of Big Bang, and explains why it's the reference that finally clicked for him.The post An owner’s take on why the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Frosted Carbon is where the brand’s ‘Art of Fusion’ makes the most sense appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Fratello
Longines Oct 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx

It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time to grab a cup of coffee and enjoy another one of our showdowns. Last week, we put two dressier moonphase watches from Longines and Tudor up against each other. This week, we’re staying on the dressier end of the watch-design spectrum. However, we’ll do so with two more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx to read the full article.

Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2025

Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ Return with a Pair of Ghostly Limited Editions

The designer and artist Romaric Andre (better known as Seconde/Seconde/) has had a string of hit limited edition watches over the last few years. Seriously, Google his name of Seconde/Seconde/, or just search our site, and you’ll see collaborations with brands large, small, expensive, affordable, and everywhere in between. He is, quite simply, one of the more prolific figures in the watch industry over the last five years or so.  I have to confess I’m not sure if anyone has yet attempted to make a list of the best of most viral Seconde/Seconde/ creations, but if such a list exists and it doesn’t have his Halloween themed collaborations with Spinnaker on it, I’m here to tell you it’s incomplete. This is the type of watch that when it was launched, the inevitable shortage produced vitriol and anger on Instagram (quickly corrected with the announcement of an additional, less limited batch). Now, Spinnaker and Seconde/Seconde/ have reteamed for another bite at the apple with the Fleuss Automatic Seconde/Seconde 2025 Edition.  The new release maintains the “phantom” dial concept (a take off on “Fifty Fathoms,” get it?) but this time around there are two case sizes to choose from, 40mm (“Phantom Steel”) and 43mm (“Phantom White”). Both have a textured gray dial with lume filled indices and hands, and of course a whole bunch of those little lumed ghosts, completing the visual pun.  In addition to the option for multiple case sizes, both variants also ...

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Oct 7, 2025

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025

For the conclusion of Worn & Wound’s 10 year anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair, we’ll be returning to Center415 on Fifth Avenue, right in the heart of New York CIty. For the second year in a row in this venue, we’ll be bringing over 140 brands from 17 different countries from around the world. These brands range from high-end outfits like M.A.D. Editions, to some of our favorite strapmakers like Spring Made, to this year’s mix of new and returning Lead Sponsors. This will be an unforgettable experience! Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary This year, we’re thrilled about our returning Lead Sponsors-Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. They are now joined by Bremont, who’s making their debut at Windup NYC this year. We couldn’t be more excited for this mix of brands, each working hard to create watches for the enthusiast community and beyond. Here’s a rundown of what watches you can expect to see from each of our Lead Sponsors. Bremont – Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey Bremont’s new Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey takes the brand’s signature ruggedness and channels it into a more understated form. Its 42mm case, crafted from ultra-matte Grade 2 titanium, gives it a sleek and durable presence designed to absorb light and reduce glare. Beneath the minimalist ...

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume Fratello
Cartier Santos - One Oct 7, 2025

Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume

By now, everyone is aware that the Santos de Cartier is hot stuff. Cartier has certainly realized this and keeps releasing new versions of its square all-metal sports watch. I still love my Santos Galbée XL ref. 2823. However, as a true Cartier Santos fan, I can’t get enough of all the new variations La […] Visit Hands-On: Two Sporty New Variants Of The Cartier Santos - One In Titanium, The Other In Steel With A Black Dial And Lume to read the full article.

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created Monochrome
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Oct 3, 2025

First Look – The New Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, the 1967 High-Frequency Watch Faithfully Re-Created

Yesterday, Longines truly impressed with the release of the new Spirit Pilot collection, a duo of deeply refined watches that finally gave the aviation-themed collection the right proportions and a cleaner look. Well, it seems that the brand is on a roll, as today we’ll discover another highly appealing watch. Following the re-edition of the […]

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity? Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Oct 1, 2025

Seiko Orange Monster: Unlikely Icon Or Monstrosity?

The beginning of October is the official marker of the beginning of spooky season, at least in my opinion. In the spirit of Halloween inching closer and closer on our calendars, I thought it would be fun to take a deep dive into a watch that really channels the energy of the season, at least as far as nicknames go – the Seiko Monster. And, to lean even further into the fanfare, I’ll be focusing solely on the most Halloween-appropriate colorways of the Seiko Monster universe – that’s right, it's the bright, pumpkin-y Seiko Orange Monster from here on out. Below, I’ll be walking you through a little history lesson for context, breaking down the various generations of Seiko’s Monster diver, ultimately to help you determine for yourself if this watch is an unlikely icon or a horological monstrosity.  Seiko Monster Context First things first – the “Monster” moniker is a nickname for this line of divers that the enthusiast community came up with itself, and the brand has yet to embrace it officially. The early 2000s, at large, is representative of something of an identity crisis for the watch world, as the necessity of wristwatches as a time-keeping tool waned. Each brand has its own approach, but when I think of the early 2000s for watches, chunky, bold, imaginative, and somewhat overbuilt pieces are the first things that come to mind, especially on the heels of the relatively conservative watch designs of the 1990s. Ultimately, the origin story of the Seiko ...

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back Fratello
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2025

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back

The SIHH, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, was a watch trade show founded in 1991 by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the show, compared to Baselworld, aimed to create a more exclusive, high-luxury atmosphere dedicated to fine watchmaking and […] Visit Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back to read the full article.

Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Nivada Grenchen Sep 27, 2025

Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic

Nivada Grenchen is always fun to explore. The brand was well regarded in the 20th century for tough tool watches, including a series that went to Antarctica. This led to the Antarctic watch line, and today, we’ll look at a vintage example. Revitalized in recent years, Nivada Grenchen has been going from strength to strength, […] Visit Value In Vintage: The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands Fratello
Sep 26, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! Today, we’re continuing our series focusing on budget-friendly watches. Not too long ago, we compiled a trio of lists covering the best available watches under €500. For this new series of three articles, we’ll double the budget and focus on the best watches under €1,000. Last week, we kicked off the […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Watches Under €1,000 From Small Brands to read the full article.

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Fratello
Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Glashütte Origin... Sep 25, 2025

Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon

Glashütte Original was founded in 1845, and to commemorate this milestone, the brand has unveiled a stunning new PanoLunarTourbillon. As we’ll see, the watch showcases the best of the manufacture, featuring an in-house movement and dial. With a limited production run and flagship status, this watch won’t be for everyone, but it’s a great example […] Visit Looking At The New Glashütte Original PanoLunarTourbillon to read the full article.

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Sep 25, 2025

First Look – The new Steel and Purple Dial Grand Seiko Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest SLGB005

Earlier this year, at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Grand Seiko unveiled a new and rather important collection, fitted with a brand new movement and carrying a meaningful name, the Spring Drive UFA. Now, if you’re a GS fan, you’ll immediately spot the connection with the VFA models of the past, as the new Ultra […]