Hodinkee
Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique For Only Watch
The lauded independent watchmaker brings a striking new movement to a stainless steel case for this year's charity auction – and likely beyond.
Results for The Heuer Carrera (1963)
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and The Horophile Collaborate on a Sleek Art Deco Inspired Limited Edition
If you had told me a few weeks ago that Louis Erard’s new collaboration with Amr Sindi, AKA, The Horophile, would be an Art Deco inspired watch with a quite literal approximation of the Empire State Building within the handset, I probably would have let out an audible groan. Not because I don’t have faith in Louis Erard (their run of limited editions over the past few years is basically a parade of nonstop hits) or The Horophile (whose Instagram feed reveals his exceptional taste), but because it just all seems so on-the-nose. Art Deco inspired designs are a pretty niche interest in 2023, but calling out the Empire State Building, perhaps the single most well known symbol of the design and architecture movement as a major point of reference, seems to me like a recipe for something that you’d find in the building’s gift shop. Well, I should have known better. Because the new watch from Louis Erard is beautifully subtle, and surprisingly modern in its sensibility. The Petite Seconde Metropolis incorporates a number of Art Deco hallmarks into a clean design that takes advantage of a Louis Erard platform that we’re starting to see used more frequently. As you might expect given the Art Deco themes, there was a large focus on the typeface used for the hours around the dial’s perimeter. Each numeral is very subtly “openworked,” and they’re presented in an uncommon circular fashion, which mimics the circular motif at the dial’s center. Importantly, these hou...
Worn & Wound
Bravur Releases the La Vuelta III, the Third and Final Leg in their 2023 Grand Tour Series
This past weekend, the cycling world turned its attention to Spain for the start of the Vuelta a España. One the most prestigious Grand Tours, the Vuelta takes riders through the Pyrenees as they race towards Madrid over the course of 23 days. At the end of the race, which consists of 21 day-long stages, the rider with the lowest aggregate time is crowned the winner and wears the famous red jersey. While the watch world is often linked to motorsports, we have seen meaningful partnerships with cycling as of late. To commemorate the start of this year’s Vuelta, Sweden-based Bravur Watches has released its third and final addition to the Grand Tour chronograph series, the La Vuelta III. Housed in a 38.2mm (46.3mm lug-to-lug) PVD-coated stainless steel case, the new Vuelta III really leans into using red accents to both pay homage to the Vuelta lead jersey and establish a distinct aesthetic. The subdials – seconds at nine, hours at six, and minutes at three o-clock – are framed in red and recessed in a lower layer, as is the triangle at twelve o-clock (which Bravur says represents the flag at 1 km remaining). In another nod to cycling, the red band around the edge of the dial is subtly textured to resemble racing tires. Inside beats the Sellita SW511, an automatic chronograph movement that features Côte de Genéve and perlé decoration, rhodium plating, and heated blue screws. Owners can full-send on the red theme by pairing the watch with a red rubber strap or pare ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Automotive-Inspired Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40
Laurent Ferrier and team are bringing the '70s back, with a touch of Porsche and Le Mans history.
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon
Ulysse Nardin do not always get the credit they are due as a watch manufacture. I bet most of you watching this video were not aware that Ulysse Nardin is an independently owned, vertically integrated manufacture – among the rare few who are able to build their watches fully in house. While certainly versed in … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is the ultimate tribute to silicon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred
Editor’s note: Since publishing this article, Doxa has announced an update to the SUB 300β Sharkhunter as a result of community feedback. The watch will now be offered in both date and no-date variants, with a rectangular marker replacing the date window in the latter. The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter explores a streetwear aesthetic in … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment
The new MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon is the first with a gold-plated hand outside of the gray “Moon” case The blue Neptune case has been used to honour the upcoming August 30 blue moon It will be available at a select list of retailers worldwide on August 30 Borna said it perfectly … ContinuedThe post New MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine Gold Blue Moon gets the Neptune treatment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
MB&F; Stuns Again with the Incredible HM9 Sapphire Vision
Back in January 2021, MB&F; released what remains one of my all time favorite watches in the “This is Totally Insane” genre of watchmaking. Regular readers will understand that this is actually one of my favorite genres – one that I wish more in our little world would aspire to, because, really, how many black dialed dive watches does one really need? The HM9 SV, short for Sapphire Vision, is, as described, a vision in sapphire. The design of this watch takes the already bonkers HM9 and essentially cases it in an elaborate array of sapphire crystals, with a metal frame holding it all together. The result is an incredible view of the HM9’s movement, which has two independent balance wheels joined by a central differential that averages out their rates for, in theory, more stable timekeeping. And it’s all arranged in a shape inspired by automotive design dating to the 1940s and 1950s, because this is MB&F;, and that’s what they do. Last week, MB&F; announced new versions of the HM9 SV, which is noteworthy because component for component, this has to be one of the toughest watches to make in the entire industry. The reason, of course, is because of the extensive use of sapphire, which has to be custom made specifically for these watches to very precise tolerances. And every piece of sapphire used in the HM9 SV is curved. MB&F; points out that sapphire cased watches made by some of their competitors are using mostly flat pieces of crystal, held together by screws. Th...
![[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/AstorBank_20ATM_007.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Watches & the Stories they Keep: Matter of Time x Astor+Banks
Watches aren’t exactly a practical necessity these days, and while that element certainly still appeals to some of us, there’s generally something deeper at work that’s provided them with the staying power they’ve enjoyed for the past few decades. We like the way they look and feel, as well as appreciate the mechanical artistry at work under the hood. Further still, we attach stories and experiences to these objects that imbue them with personal meaning and significance to us, many of which we do our best to explore and share in these very pages. Recording and preserving these experiences is the motivation behind a new outfit called Matter of Time, who have teamed up with Astor+Banks to create a run of watches meant to do just that. Matter of Time is a “purpose-driven club” that works a little differently than you might expect. Members are allowed to purchase watches created for the club given they agree to two stipulations: “The member will share and document special experiences on [the Matter of Time website] that they had with the watch through their life together and 2. Within two years, that watch will be given away. Not sold, but given away to recognize somebody’s good deed, effort or accomplishment.” Additionally, 50% of the proceeds of every collection go to a charitable cause. The first effort from Matter of Time is a collaboration with Astor+Banks on the Founder’s Collection. The watch, which is based on the Fortitude, takes inspiration fr...
Time+Tide
WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened?
Likely the most significant horological event of the previous century, the quartz crisis (or revolution, depending on which side you stood), not only signalled the beginning of the end for many smaller watch manufactures, but also influenced the way we look at watches to this very day. Quartz is often looked down upon, and incorrectly … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… The quartz crisis never happened? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The First IWC Pilot's Watch With A Fully Luminous Dial
A part of its collaborations with U.S. Navy squadrons, the 41mm Black Aces watch is a new bright dial in the brand's lineup.
Worn & Wound
IWC Adds a Fully Lumed Dial to their Pilot Collection with the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces
Sometimes I get tagged with the label of curmudgeon for my somewhat finicky and at times nonsensical taste in watches (and movies, and other things – I like what I like). But at the end of the day, I really just want watches to be fun, and for everyone to chill just a little bit when it comes to the hottest of takes on Instagram, YouTube, and elsewhere. If there’s one feature on a watch that captures a more nonchalant attitude toward watches in general, I think it has to be the fully lumed dial, right? Is there anything else that appeals so strongly to that proverbial inner child, the one who is still fascinated with things that glow in the dark? Lumed dials have been having a bit of a moment as of late, and now IWC is getting in on the action, with their first pilot’s watch with a fully lumed dial treatment, the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. The Black Aces is the latest in an ongoing series of watches that IWC has made in partnership with US Navy squadrons as part of their Professional Pilot’s Watches Program. This new watch takes inspiration from a previous watch that IWC created for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41, also known as the Black Aces. This squadron has roots that date back to 1950, and is based at Naval Air Station Lemoore in California, and their Black Aces patch can be seen on the dial at the 6:00 position of the new pilot’s watch. IWC refers to this as a “Lumicast” dial, and it comes together after a complex process that invol...
Time+Tide
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is the brand’s first full lume dial
When asked about pilot’s watches, the first brand I think of is IWC. The brand largely deals in sensible, legible designs, especially when it comes to their pilot’s watches, where such a quality is paramount. Now, we have seen IWC, well-versed in ceramics, create stealthy, black ceramic pilot’s pieces. The dark cases certainly camouflage themselves … ContinuedThe post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is the brand’s first full lume dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023
Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...
SJX Watches
The IWC Pilot’s Watch Gets a Full-Lume Dial
Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist. Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like. Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100. This movement was presumably used because o...
Time+Tide
The Argos Odyssey is an affordable and thoughtful everyday watch
Back when everybody wore a watch to keep their lives organised, most people only needed something that indicated the time and date. Nothing truly fancy in terms of complications. However, not everyone had the same kind of budget to buy such an essential tool. Some could afford a luxury Swiss timepiece while others an inexpensive … ContinuedThe post The Argos Odyssey is an affordable and thoughtful everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Roundup – Essential Gear for Photographers
For many people, an affordable Seiko 5 was their first mechanical watch, and the value-packed series holds a special place within the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts all around the globe. And what better watch to carry with you on your photography adventures around the globe. For many people, an affordable Seiko 5 was their first mechanical watch, and the value-packed series holds a special place within the hearts of collectors and enthusiasts all around the globe. And what better watch to carry with you on your photography adventures around the globe. The post The Roundup – Essential Gear for Photographers appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
A Question of Time: 10 questions with the Time+Tide team – Jamie Weiss
Time+Tide’s new Australian Editor shares a bit about himself.The post A Question of Time: 10 questions with the Time+Tide team – Jamie Weiss appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Behind The Lens: Unique Kari Voutilainen 28Sport
One of the best things about dealing with independent watchmakers is the ability to request unique touches on your watch. That’s just what happened after GaryG's new friend first saw Kari Voutilainen’s Sport28, a titanium-encased watch that itself is quite rare with only eight examples made in total.
Revolution
Unboxing the Cartier Santos Dumont L NSO “Les Flaneurs” Edition
Wei & Constant are excited to unveil the highly anticipated Cartier Santos Dumont L “Les Flaneurs” Edition in steel, a New Special Order project that has been in the making for the past two years. This exclusive edition is a testament to the passion and dedication of the “Les Flaneurs” club, a community of Cartier […]
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Tennis-Themed Rallymaster II Arrives Ahead Of The U.S. Open In New York City
Following in the footsteps of the French Open-themed Rallymaster from last year, the Racquet x Maurice de Mauriac collab returns in blue.
Time+Tide
The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all
“The World Is Yours” Dual Time Zone watch is a tribute to a family heirloom Jacob Arabo received at the age of 13 This two-dialed Wakmann inspired Arabo to aspire to create his own watches, and has informed his designs ever since It utilises a new manufacture calibre JCAA11, and this limited edition release is … ContinuedThe post The new Jacob & Co. The World Is Yours Dual Time Zone is a tribute to the watch that started it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear
Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. The post Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear appeared first on Worn & Wound.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/08/Tudor_FXD_redbull_019.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the Tudor FXD Alinghi Red Bull Racing Watches
When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...
Hodinkee
The G-SHOCK MUDMAN-GW-9500
Conquer the elements with the G-SHOCK MUDMAN GW-9500. Designed for the harshest terrains, the timepiece is the ultimate wrist companion for explorers and adventurers alike.
Deployant
TGIFriday: Rolls-Royce launch event for the new Spectre in Singapore
Rolls-Royce Motor Cars launches the Asian debut of Spectre in an event in Singapore. We were at the event and bring you this brief report.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin design a unique clock for the world’s most expensive car
Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers bespoke department has collaborated with Rolls-Royce on a luxurious dashboard clock piece unique upon a client’s request Styled after a dashboard-mounted gauge, it features a bi-axial tourbillon and double retrograde display The car it was designed for, the Rolls-Royce Amethyst Droptail, is the world’s most expensive new car When it comes … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin design a unique clock for the world’s most expensive car appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Daytona: A Comprehensive Guide to the Iconic Racing Chronograph
The Rolex Daytona is today one of the most coveted and collectible luxury watches in the world, and indisputably a legend among racing-inspired chronograph wristwatches. But it was far from an overnight success. Read on to discover how the Rolex Daytona went from languishing on retailers’ shelves in the early 1960s to inspiring years-long waiting lists and stratospheric auction prices in the 21st Century, and how some racetrack cred and Hollywood star power lent a hand along the way. Since its founding in 1905, Rolex has grown to become the world’s undisputed king of luxury sport watches and one of the most influential innovators in watchmaking history. Rolex inventions like the waterproof Oyster case, the self-winding Perpetual movement, and the user-friendly magnifying Cyclops lens have had widespread influence in the watch industry, and iconic watch models like the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master have become the standards against which others in their category are measured. All that said, Rolex was relatively late to the game when it comes to one of the most popular sport-watch fields: the chronograph. By the early 1950s, the decade in which all three of the aforementioned Rolex models debuted, competitors like Breitling, Longines, and Heuer (today’s TAG Heuer), all of whom had established themselves as specialists in chronographs since before the 20th Century, were dominant in the space. Rolex had dabbled with chronograph models intermittently since 1937, b...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size
Over the last few years, the watch-buying public has made known its seemingly insatiable appetite for sport watches with integrated bracelets – and smaller ones at that. In response, brands from Alpina to Zenith have given it their best shot. Today Christopher Ward fires the latest salvo in this movement with The Twelve, now in all of its 36mm glory. Introduced in April of this year, The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s interpretation of the integrated bracelet sport watch, and the new release changes little other than its dimensions. Front and center is still the eponymous dodecagonal bezel, which is mirrored on the caseback with three types of finishing: brushed, sandblasted, and highly polished. The 36mm case features screwed-in crown guards and remains 9.95mm thin. Lug-to-lug distance is now 40.8mm (likely not including the male end links), and water resistance is still 100 meters. At launch, you can choose from four dial options: Nordic or Glacier Blue, Alta White, and exclusive to this smaller size, Frosted Lichen (mint green). Inside beats the same Sellita SW200-1 that lives inside the non-titanium 40mm variants of The Twelve, but the date feature has been removed. CW claims keeping the date on this variant would have necessitated omitting the 6 o-clock hour marker entirely, something the brand elected not to do in order to preserve simplicity. Retail price is $1,225 on a bracelet and $995 on a tapering rubber strap. CW has stated that this new 36mm size is agender ...
Worn & Wound
Farer Launches the New Tonneau Collection, with Colors Inspired by European Cities
British brand Farer’s latest collection is an ode to form and aesthetics. Called the Tonneau Collection, the three watches each show that style doesn’t have to lack substance; but can, in fact, be a jumping-off point for great design and a reliable watch. As the name denotes, each watch within this collection has a barrel-shaped, rounded rectangle case, mixing clean lines and smooth curves all in one. At just 35mm, it’s a watch that balances comfort on the wrist while still having a covetable presence when worn, and this is due in part to the particular color combinations that Farer used for the collection. Each of the three color options embody the spirit and energy of a particular city: Milan, London, and Paris. Milan’s vibrant emerald fumé dial is a callback to green-glazed ceramics that traversed the ancient world and still has a timeless sophistication – just like Milan. The emerald green is paired with polished silver batons, a stainless steel case, and a rich brown St Venere leather strap to balance the urbanity of the Northern Italian city. London is a nod to the Mod era of the 1970’s, with Farer being inspired by two-handed watches of this time period. With clean lines and a ridged pattern around the face, one can appreciate the geometry that goes into a well-designed timepiece. The dominant colors (or should I say colours) of this watch are blue, white, and red, each perfectly in balance to not compete but complement one another. The London model is ...