Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Pair of U.S. Army-Issued Submariners, A Breguet QP, and A Universal Genève Compur
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
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Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
GS opens its second boutique in Australia in The Block Arcade on Melbourne's Collins Street, the main vein of Aussie watch culture.The post Grand Seiko opens a luxurious new Melbourne boutique, a statement of intent from the Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of €5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...
Fratello
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For most of my watch-buying life, fun dive watches have mostly been big dive watches. Colorful, loud, capable waterproof options have tended to correspond with case dimensions of equal impact and presence, while the sub-40mm dive watch space has belonged to relatively sedate interpretations of the classic dive watch formula - and even then, 39mm has been the sweet spot for ‘small’ divers. But over the last few release cycles (if those even exist anymore), we’ve started to see signs of a shift, and I can think of few better examples of this change than the Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648, released last year as part of Zenith’s grand re-entry into the dive space. Last summer, I got to spend a few weeks with the Zenith Defy Revival Diver’s bigger, brasher brother, the Defy Extreme Diver, and I came away wildly impressed. The Defy Extreme Diver was a watch that punched way above its weight class (or at least its price point) while feeling like a genuinely novel take on a modern dive watch from a brand with shockingly little history in the space. So when I had the chance to spend some time with that watch’s vintage-inspired counterpart, I jumped. This extended visit with the Revival Diver wasn’t my first hands-on experience with the watch - I got to spend a few minutes with it when I went to pick up the Extreme Diver back in June - but on that day, I didn’t find myself particularly taken with the Revival. While I’ve long admired Zenith’s dual identity...
Worn & Wound
There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed. But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us. The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...
SJX Watches
Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...
Deployant
We had a loaner of the new Citizen Attesa Eco-Drive Satellite Wave GPS for a couple of weeks, and here is our hands-on review of the watch.
Time+Tide
Anoma brings its second-ever watch to market, with a new dark grey dial colour, small changes to the case and an increase price.The post Anoma updates its shaped A1 with a new Slate dial, and we got our hands on it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The brand's latest limited edition dive watch supports a new marine research center in the Philippines.
Time+Tide
A blue-tinted sapphire dial, luminous rubber strap and thin proportions make this elevated dive watch an attractive beast.The post Christopher Ward’s azure C60 Sapphire Edge cuts a slim and stylish figure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Vanac name may not ring a bell for anyone but the most hardcore King Seiko enthusiasts, but that did not stop Seiko from reissuing the watch in a new guise. Today, we see the introduction of the King Seiko Vanac SLA087 in purple/gold and the SLA083 in white/gold. As you can see from the […] Visit Introducing: The King Seiko Vanac SLA087 And SLA083 to read the full article.
Fratello
If only watches could tell stories… This particular watch, a Rolex GMT-Master 1675 from 1968, would have a multitude of stories to share. The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675 we’re looking at today belonged to the late New Zealand photojournalist and camera operator Derek McKendry, who spent eight years covering the Vietnam War for the Australian […] Visit War Correspondent’s Rolex GMT-Master 1675 Surfaces In New Zealand to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, Seiko updated one of its best-selling models, the classic, rather compact and vintage-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver, releasing a new collection with improved mechanics, reduced dimensions, upgraded water-resistance and a new bracelet – all the evolutions can be explored in this in-depth video. As you know, this watch is a modern recreation of […]
Monochrome
This year, Seiko celebrates the 60th anniversary of one of its most important timepieces, its first dive watch, the 62MAS. While some would have expected the brand to come with yet another vintage-inspired re-creation of this historic model – it might come later this year – for now, we have a trio of new models. […]
SJX Watches
In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...
Monochrome
In 1965, Seiko entered the race for the best dive watch, much later than the Swiss did. Seiko released its first ever dive watch, known as the 62MAS, the mother of all upcoming aquatic watches of the brand. It’s a story that we’ve told many times on MONOCHROME. What matters most today is that 2025 […]
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite games to play when visiting family is something I like to call “Guess, That, Price!” Here’s how it works: I excitedly dump out my rolls and pouches to reveal to the group what watches I have in for review at that time. They then pour over the details, proudly identifying the features of each watch, and then guess the retail price of each piece to see who comes the closest. On my most recent episode of “Guess, That, Price!” I had with me a trio of watches, one of which being the new MK II Fulcrum 39. As it made its rounds, they began calling out features such as the bezel action, the weight of the watch, and the overall rugged visual appearance. When prompted, the three contestants gave me their estimated MSRP of $22,000, $26,000, and finally $31,000. Yes, they are pretty bad at this game. However, what they lack in accuracy is made up for in providing an interesting data point for me. This watch has the potential to carry a higher perceived value than its actual asking price which is not something that typically happens. It pushed me to explore the watch further. From the outset, I’ll admit I was a little disappointed with the new Fulcrum. A massive fan of MK II and Tornek-Rayville, I had inflated expectations that this piece would blow me away. To put it bluntly, this is my least favorite watch they have produced to date. I hate that I am writing that, and I hate that I am admitting that, but at the end of the day sometimes things fall sho...
Monochrome
Let me state something that I know will spark some people; as a watch-loving community, we’ve become far too negative in our opinions. Especially when it comes to social media, it’s easy to discard something you don’t like or even ridicule or bash. It’s a fairly common thing to express one’s (negative) opinion in such […]
Hodinkee
Citizen celebrates the 55th anniversary of their world's-first titanium watch and the launch of the new "Citizen Premier" category.
Hodinkee
These next rounds of classes will be hosted by the Carolina Watch Club, the Escapement Club, EsperLuxe and the Waltham Museum.
Monochrome
Watches, like most products from industrial activities, are ruled by constraints and compromises – whether these are commercial, technological, design-oriented or economical. This is why we, watch enthusiasts, can often be rather disappointed by many new releases. Surely, independent watchmakers playing in a much higher price range can overpass some of these constraints, as a […]
Fratello
As a materials engineer, I get excited whenever a watchmaker uses an atypical material. Over the last decade, carbon and ceramics have become more prevalent for watch cases. However, aside from new gold alloys, it has been relatively quiet on the metals front. Using tantalum isn’t new, but it’s so uncommon that it deserves attention […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 21.01 “Project 21” In Tantalum to read the full article.
Fratello
In 1995, Casio added the DW-6900 model to its G-Shock line, marking an evolution in the design and functionality of digital watches. With its round case, Triple Graph display, and front-mounted light button, the DW-6900 quickly became a favorite among watch enthusiasts and professional users. Its 30th anniversary in 2025 is a good moment to […] Visit Celebrating The G-Shock DW-6900 Triple Graph’s 30th Anniversary With Three New Versions to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Need a watch that can withstand the harshest things you can throw at it? Here are a few suggestions.The post 9 of the best tough watches for timekeeping under extreme conditions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
There is no time to waste. The watch department at Hermès has been very busy - busy enough to release no fewer than six new watches ahead of next month’s Watches and Wonders. The novelties include a 12-set limited edition of three Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune watches in surprising colors plus two new […] Visit Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Purple watch dials may not be the most common, but they are among the most evocative that you'll find on the market. The post 11 of the best purple dial watches for when you want something a little funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sergio Galanti takes a look at the story behind the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch to learn how this iconic watch was created.
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection. 1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...
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