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Revolution
At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. In our session, International Stars of Independent Watchmaking, discover the state of independence with Konstantin Chaykin, Michiel Holthinrichs, Benoit Mintiens of Ressence, […]
Revolution
At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The star-studded panel for our discussion on Watchmaking’s Rising Stars included Simon Brette, Andrea Furlan, Stefan Kudoke, Rémi Maillat, Gautier Massonneau, Claude […]
Revolution
At Geneva Watch Days Revolution hosted a series of symposiums, with some the watch industries greatest leaders, innovators and visionaries. In case you couldn’t make it in person, we’re sharing the stream here. The session, Legends of Independent Watchmaking – Part 2 features Ludovic Ballouard, Bernhard Lederer, Romain Gauthier, Edouard Meylan from H. Moser & Cie, […]
Worn & Wound
It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. It’s always a bummer when we realize that summer is ending. The long days, endless BBQ, and warm midday walks are all slowly fading away. However, we have just the thing to help lift our fellow enthusiast spirits! The Labor Day Sale has just kicked off and we are super stoked about some of the items up for promotions this year. To kick things off, we’re having a huge sitewide sale that includes getting up to 15% off select straps, accessories, EDC, clocks, and of course watches, as well as some other incredible cool gifts with purchase items. The Labor Day Sale starts at 12:00AM EST 8/31/2023 and ends at 11:59PM EST on 9/04/2023. The post The Labor Day 2023 Sale at the Windup Watch Shop Has Kicked Off! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...
![[VIDEO] Returning to The Windy City: A Recap of Chicago Windup Watch Fair 2023](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/07/L1170986.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When we sent out to launch the first-ever Chicago Windup Watch Fair last year, we didn’t know what to expect. Data suggested that the Chicago area was home to a significant number of Worn & Wound community members, but little did we know that the Fair would attract folks from all across the Midwest, and from Texas to Canada. And oh boy, did our second show at Venue West in Chicago not disappoint! In fact, by all accounts, it was even bigger, more vibrant, and far more interactive than last year’s already epic opener. Not only did the show have five amazing lead sponsors in the form of Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and Zodiac for the first time, we managed to fit about 25% more brands into the venue than just one year ago. And the brands came with a massive array of new watches, using this Fair to launch these products to the world. You can see several of these new launches on the most recent edition of our weekly video series, A Week in Watches, recorded straight from the floor of the show. A wide array of enthusiast brands returned to Chicago, and we had a slew of watch companies choose Chicago 2023 as their official debut to the Windup Watch Fair. Some of these first-timers included: Dryden, Hess Fine Art, Luminox, Shinola, Sternglas, Venezianico, and Wolter. We even had a few brands return to the show after a hiatus, including Mondaine, MeisterSinger, Mühle-Glashütte. It was great to have them back. Finally, based on the success of our initial EDC Alley at our S...
Worn & Wound
We’ve talked about it on a podcast, and we’ve written about some high profile releases, but now the time has come for the Worn & Wound team to pick their favorites from this year’s Only Watch. We’ve had a few weeks to digest over 60 piece uniques, and, collectively, we’re ready to name the ones we’d gladly bid on, if only we ran hedge funds or happened to come into vast sums of heretofore unknown generational wealth in the next few months. This year’s crop of watches is truly special, with some brands getting creative and striking bold new paths, and others reverting to heritage in the best way possible. Without further ado, our picks for our favorite watches in this year’s auction are below. Be sure to let us know what your favorite watches are from the sale in the comments below. Blake Buettner – TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve always had something of a love/hate relationship with TAG Heuer’s Monaco, generally preferring the simple, old school approach to some of the zanier creations we’ve seen over the years. So it came as a surprise that, upon seeing the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch, I was kind of smitten. The floating dial structure works, and they went all-in on the case itself with a texturised titanium, so the whole thing works together rather than looking like a modern dial in a vintage case. Plus, just look at the shape of the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. It’s not just the crazy exterior that works ...
Time+Tide
Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...
SJX Watches
For its second outing at Only Watch, Barcelona-based Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) created the AdC30, which takes the independent watchmaker’s proven formula to a new level with an in-house movement, a new case design, and a handmade dial. Initial thoughts The AdC30 stands out from most of the other lots in the upcoming Only Watch auction due to its restraint. While most of the other lots are characterised by their use, or overuse, of bright colours, the AdC30 sticks to the mid-century motifs that have enabled the brand to establish a distinctive brand identity in just nine years – no easy feat for a brand that exclusively produces one-off watches by special order. This coherent aesthetic is no doubt thanks to founder Santi Martinez’s cultivated eye for detail. AdC’s watches are perhaps best described as a love letter to classical designs and the single-minded chronometric purpose of wristwatches of the 1940’s. Since its founding in 2014, the brand has focused on producing bespoke watches built around vintage Omega and Venus movements, which are upgraded in-house to meet contemporary haute horlogerie standards. But earlier this year, AdC introduced the AdC22 featuring the M284, the brand’s first in-house movement. The AdC30 is the second publicly announced watch to use this movement, though the gap between the model numbers (which are usually consecutive) suggests there may be other watches with this movement that have been commissioned by collectors. Rega...
Quill & Pad
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet. This year the theme is rainbows: some brands ran with that superbly, while others took a different path. Here Ian Skellern highlights Lots 33-48.
Hodinkee
With this update, Monta makes subtle aesthetic and technical refinements to its signature diver.
Quill & Pad
Held every two years, the Only Watch charity auction of exclusively unique pieces has grown into THE most anticipated watch auction worldwide and features some of the most creative and innovative horology on the planet.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has a history at Only Watch of producing groundbreaking Grand Complications, displaying what it is capable of at the highest end of watchmaking. The table clock from 2021 or the Grandmaster Chime from 2019 both exemplify these virtues. And it would appear that it is going to continue down this road with this year’s instalment as it introduces a Grand Complication in tribute to Philippe Stern, Patek Phillippe Honorary President and father to the brand’s current President, Thierry Stern. Philippe Stern (left) and Thierry Stern (right). While the details of this piece are currently lacking somewhat, the brand has announced that it has developed an entirely new movement for this watch and it features Philippe Stern’s favourite Grand Complication. This will not just be a one off either, the first one made will be of a unique design and auctioned at Only Watch, but after that Patek will go on to produce 30 more, in a strictly limited run, after which the movement will never be used again. This November Philippe Stern is set to turn 85, his son was quoted saying this about the upcoming watch, “this is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favour of Patek Philippe.” There will be more details about this watch to follow, with the auction being conducted by Christie’s at Palexpo in Geneva on November 5.
SJX Watches
Foreshadowing a return of the famous “Big Block” chronograph from 1976, Tudor has unveiled the Prince Chronograph One for Only Watch 2023. Featuring a striking 18k yellow gold case and matching bracelet, the Prince Chronograph One debuts Tudor’s first-ever in-house chronograph movement, the MT59XX – making it the first and only Tudor watch sold publicly to contain a yet-to-be-released prototype movement. Initial thoughts The Prince Chronograph One is an interesting debut for Tudor in many ways. Not only is it an attractive and well-conceived watch in its own right, it’s likely a sign of things to come, particularly with regards to the all-new in-house movement. Tudor’s prior Only Watch entries features unusual materials such as ceramic, bronze, and patinated steel; the Prince Chronograph One continues this trend. Tudor doesn’t often make watches in precious metals – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18k is an exception – leaving that lane open for its sibling Rolex. The 42 mm case and bracelet of this unique piece are crafted from 18k yellow gold, and the screw-down crown and pushers are particularly faithful to those of the original “Big Block” and its sibling, the Rolex Daytona 6263. And it shows remarkable attention to detail that Tudor opted to produce its adjustable T-Fit clasp in 18k yellow gold for this one-off piece. The pairing of a yellow gold case with a black dial and bezel is also timely given the surging interest in the Rolex Daytona “Paul Ne...
SJX Watches
Amongst the special editions created for the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo is the World Time Minute Repeater Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5531R-014. The ref. 5531R-014 is the more complicated of the two world time models that mark the event – the other is the ref. 5330G – and features a cloisonné enamel dial. The dial continues with the motif first found on the ref. 5531R-010 made for the Grand Exhibition 2019 that took place in Singapore. Its centre is cloisonné enamel depicting a stylised map of the Chuo ward in central Tokyo, including the expansive grounds of Imperial Palace on the upper left. Initial thoughts Unlike the other two Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 complications – Quad Comp ref. 5308P and World Time ref. 5330G – that are new references containing new calibres, the ref. 5531R is a variant of a regular-production model. So while it less interesting from that perspective, the ref. 5531R-014 is still an compelling watch. The cloisonné map is an unusual motif for a dial, and almost abstract at a distance, but interesting and appealing. The watch does have intrinsic appeal, however, it also does look similar to the ref. 5531R-010 made for the 2019 Grand Exhibition in Singapore. In fact, the two are probably indistinguishable from across a room. Doing something more distinctive, for instance another case metal and dial colour, would have made this more unique. A bird’s eye view of Tokyo The cloisonné enamel dial captures the Ch...
SJX Watches
Having just opened the doors of the Watch Art Grand Grand Exhibition in Tokyo, Patek Philippe also revealed the special editions created for the event, including the World Time Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 ref. 5330G-10. Limited to 300 watches available only in Japan, the ref. 5330G-010 is the brand’s first world time with a date display. It features a guilloche dial in purple, the thematic hue of the exhibition, along with subtle references to Japan on the dial. Initial thoughts While the ref. 5330G-010 is not the flagship complication of the Watch Art Tokyo 2023 event – that title is claimed by the ref. 5308P Quadruple Complication – the new World Time is quintessential Patek Philippe. For one, the world time complication, though not invented by Patek Philippe, is strongly associated with the brand. At the same time, the date display is both practical and incorporated in an elegant manner, while the mechanics behind the date are sophisticated and thin as is typical of the brand’s approach to movements. Also in its favour are the discreet and tasteful references to Japan on the dial. But while the plum dial is striking and rich, the colour might not be for everyone. But putting aside the colour, the ref. 5330G-010 is an appealing watch. It is limited to just 300 pieces sold only in Japan, which makes availability at retail non-existent for most, but fortunately the ref. 5330 will almost certainly make it into the catalogue as a regular production model, as past exhi...
Quill & Pad
Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.
SJX Watches
The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...
Quill & Pad
Every year the attention of watch collectors and professionals worldwide is drawn to Geneva, the world capital of the watch auction trade. Ineichen has just held their first Geneva auction and focused on the independents.
Time+Tide
No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
At the 2016 World Whiskies Awards, Teeling Whiskey was awarded “World’s Best Irish Single Malt” and then in 2019 “World’s Best Single Malt.” Ken Gargett takes a look at (and a few drams of) a couple of the company's wonderful whiskeys and explains what makes them so exceptional.
Revolution
At Urwerk’s atelier, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, got to know the back story of the iconic UR-102 in detail. As you might be aware, the UR-102 is inspired by the Sputnik satellite, and this unconventional timepiece played a fundamental role in launching Urwerk to success, along with paving the way for futuristic independent watchmaking. […]
Hodinkee
From a ceremony with President Biden and Vice President Harris to a special press briefing, the watch toured the nation's capital.
Worn & Wound
2022 was a big year for the Windup Watch Fair. We expanded our San Francisco and New York City events and launched a brand new Fair in Chicago. Thanks to the support of the Worn & Wound community, each event was more well-attended than the last. Heading into 2023, we’re excited to build on this momentum with even bigger and better events. For the uninitiated, Windup is a three-day-long shopping event that brings watch brands and customers together in a fun, approachable, and engaging environment. Always free and open to the public, Windup encourages everyone from seasoned collectors to first-time watch buyers to come in, take a look, and talk watches. Here’s a quick recap of our most recent event in NYC to give you a sneak peek of what to expect. If you own or represent a brand and are interested in participating in Windup this year (or partnering with Worn & Wound in other ways), please click here to complete a short questionnaire. Now, onto the 2023 schedule of events! San Francisco – Friday, April 28 through Sunday, April 30, 2023 After successfully expanding the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair into a new venue in 2022, we’re excited to be kicking off the 2023 Fair schedule at the same location, the Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), this time occupying both the first and second floors of the facility. That’s right, this year’s San Francisco Fair will be even bigger than the last, with 60+ presenting brands and, for the first time in San Francisco, live pa...
Time+Tide
When you think of a watch winder, you typically think of a big and boxy thing that you have to carve out desk or tabletop space for. And, ultimately, these winders are things you do not really ever transport – a strictly at-home solution. WOLF, however, has now developed a portable watch winder that upholds … ContinuedThe post Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder – the WOLF Rocket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Audemars Piguet introduces its new models for the first half of 2023, with 6 new CODE 11.59 models, a new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin, a yellow gold and turquoise Royal Oak self-winding, and a full ceramic Royal Oak Offshore.
Time+Tide
Some may refer to Vacheron Constantin as the third member of the Swiss holy trinity of watchmaking. But after an incredibly strong showing last year, Vacheron may be the one you really need to explore. Here are five of our favourite releases from Vacheron Constantin in 2022. First up, is the brand’s irrefutable … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Five of our favourite Vacheron Constantin releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
2023 marks the 60th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Carrera and CEO Frédéric Arnault gives Wei the first look at a 600-piece anniversary limited edition that pays homage to the very rare 2447SN with a ‘panda’ dial. Meanwhile, the Monza makes a comeback in the most futuristic fashion with a 42mm carbon case and a […]
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: During one of our final editorial meetings of the year, the question was posed: which watch brand won 2022? This then raises the question of what it means to win. Is it total revenue? Likes on social media? Page views on our site? The number of watch spots in the wild? There is … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? Borna picks Parmigiani Fleurier – here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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