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Monochrome
Last year, Hanhart introduced the Preventor HD12 as its vision of a robust and versatile everyday watch. Positioned alongside the brand’s historically inspired pilot’s watches and chronographs, the series offered a compact case with enhanced surface hardness and a straightforward time-only display. The watch now returns in a smaller format as a limited edition presented […]
Fratello
You know you’re looking at something extremely exclusive if a watch is part of the One of Not Many Crafts Program. And that’s what the six Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom watches are. The project explores how crafts outside the traditional watchmaking repertoire can be adapted to the scale and technical […] Visit Unleash Your Inner Beast With The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To The Animal Kingdom Watches to read the full article.
SJX Watches
As part of the brand’s “One of Not Many Crafts” programme, Vacheron Constantin is experimenting with a series of concept watches decorated with unexpected artisanal crafts, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. Some of the decorative method have never before used by Vacheron Constantin, or even watchmaking at large. The series is made up of six creative watches – each a unique creation – that run the gamut of rare crafts, some that are traditional in watchmaking, like gold embroidery, but others that are surprising, like origami. Each watch has a whimsical name stemming from the subject and method: Feathersnake, Glassoctopus, Oraygami, Tigerbroidery, Papercroc, and Woodenwings. From left: Woodenwings, Feathersnake, and Tigerbroidery Initial thoughts These are one-off concept watches, so both availability and price are moot points. But they are impressive, both in terms of technique and visuals, so I imagine Vacheron Constantin will be turning to these artisans for more watches eventually. All are striking, but a few stand out. Papercroc might well be my favourite of the lot, though Vacheron Constantin missed the opportunity to make a paper tiger. On the other hand, when the exotic technique on a tiny scale and quality of the result are taken together, Tigerbroidery is arguably one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest achievements in the rare crafts field. Papercroc Others stand out for the technique. Part of Glassoctopus’s appeal is the rawness of the ...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s latest take on its flagship perpetual calendar is the In-Line Perpetual Calendar ref. 5236P-011 with a “gradient silver” dial. Though a cosmetic update to a model that’s only been in production since 2021, the new dial is unexpectedly appealing, giving the watch a striking different feel from its predecessors. Patek Philippe’s most advanced calendar movement, the cal. 31-260 PS QL inside the ref. 5236P is a latest-generation base movement matched with a newly-developed perpetual calendar module. The movement is now in the third generation of the reference; the ref. 5236P-011 replaces the ref. 5236P-010 with a “rose gilt” dial that was only in the catalogue for two years. Initial thoughts The ref. 5236P-011 is a new face for an existing model. Though the design remains unchanged, the dial finish that darkens towards the edges gives it a more modern feel. The composite strap adds to the modern feel, though the strap might be a bit too sporty for the watch. Paradoxically, the smoked dial finish also brings to mind aged or “tropical” dials on vintage watches. The rest of the watch stays the same, but it’s a good one. The ref. 5236P is an impressive watch in both technical and physical terms – it’s the brand’s most advanced perpetual calendar and also its largest. The size and weight are reassuring, and actually bring to mind complicated models from a rival brand from Germany. But the case is made up of lots of flat surfaces and entir...
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe in our era of always-online smart watches and AI-everything (eye rolls welcome), but there was a time when the digital watch was the new kid on the block, challenging analog conventions. Cries of “kids these days” abounded, and though the then-genuine worry of traditional timekeeping going obsolete seems a bit silly in retrospect, the modern electronic digital watch was a very real and groundbreaking thing when it was first introduced by Hamilton with the Pulsar in 1970. A battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator and LED display made it a marvel at the time, and it still commands respect on the collector market today. Like many kids of the 1990s and 2000s, my first “real” watch was a digital example, mainly because I was enamored with the ever-beeping buttons and light-up face. Still, I eventually wandered over to the analog side of watch fandom, and haven’t wavered since, a trajectory most enthusiasts will probably relate to. But in the wise words of an El Paso ad executive, “por que no los dos?” The Millennial and Zillenial era of nostalgia is here, creating a new clamoring for “retro” digital displays without sacrificing the pedigree (and social clout) that comes with an analog watch. Enter the ana-digi, a combo of both types of timekeeping. It’s not a new concept by any means, with huge brands like Casio and Citizen offering examples for decades, but those tend to be big, bulky tool watches. Not so with the new slate of s...
Teddy Baldassarre
Dizzy’s Club in Columbus Circle, an extension of Jazz at Lincoln Center, is one of New York City’s premier destinations for live jazz, with world-class acts performing directly in front of a panoramic view of the city skyline. In late July, I had the opportunity to experience one of these performances in person, along
Monochrome
In the fast-paced, ultra-competitive world of Formula 1, few things are certain. One element that you can certainly be sure of, though, is the fact that there will always be a next race, a next Grand Prix, a next clash of superstar drivers. And in a sport where a win or loss can come down […]
Hodinkee
What We Know This week, Noah, the New York City–based menswear brand that has made a name for itself by blending modern streetwear aesthetics with classic Ivy style, has dropped yet another in their series of highly sought-after limited-edition collaborations with Timex. But this time, instead of evoking classic dress watches, they've opted to move in a sportier direction, reimagining Timex's MK1 field watch into a fun everyday watch. The new watch uses the 36mm version of Timex's MK1 field watch as a base, but swaps the military-inspired dial used in the majority of that line for a nautical-inspired silver opaline dial. The Timex logo stays put near twelve o'clock, with the cursive Noah wordmark joining it just below. A printed minute track with lumed pips runs around the outside of the dial, and applied markers, alternating between Breguet numerals for the even numerals and dauphine-shaped markers — which mirror the lumed dauphine hands — representing the odd. The small seconds hand brings with it the most significant aesthetic choice on the watch. A red anchor, surrounded by a black railroad seconds track, backs the small seconds subdial and shouts on a dial that otherwise hums. The watch comes with two strap options, each made of a double layer of woven nylon, and fitted with quick-release spring bars. The first of these, and the one more prominently featured in the brand's marketing materials, is a red and navy double stripe, but the watch also comes with a so...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Compare the Bernhardt Captain and Baltic MR01 for vintage styling, dial detail, finishing, and wearability, and decide which one prioritizes character more.
Fratello
Geneva Watch Days returns September 2nd–6th, 2026, bringing 71 independent watchmaking maisons to Geneva for five days of presentations, exhibitions, discussions, and events. Now in its seventh and biggest edition yet, GWD retains its decentralized format, with brands presenting from individual showrooms across the city. The Pavilion and Blue Box provide two central locations for […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2026: The Biggest One Yet to read the full article.
Monochrome
While Tiffany is mostly known for its emblematic blue colour and its high-end jewellery, the NYC-based brand has been involved in watchmaking for much longer than most would expect. For instance, Tiffany introduced its first chronograph, back then a pocket watch, of course, back in 1866. Earlier this year, to celebrate the 160th anniversary of […]
Monochrome
Formex is giving its best-selling, compact Essence 39mm a refresh, bringing in technical and ergonomic improvements. The 39mm Essence was first showcased in 2020 as the smaller sibling to the original 43mm model, and we have since seen it in everything from the regular collection to the meteorite-dial Essence 39 Space Gold and wine-toned Gamaret. […]
Fratello
Every time anOrdain announces a new release, I sit up and listen carefully. Over the past decade, the Scottish brand has made a name for itself for creating some of the absolute best dials in the industry. The craftsmanship and creativity in every new release are almost second to none. In-house typography designer Imogen Ayres […] Visit True Craftsmanship Takes Center Stage: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain With Numerals By Kia Tasbihgou to read the full article.
Fratello
The Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm is a clear example of watch evolution. It’s proof that progress is less about changing the design than refining what is already there. The 39mm case, its proportions, design, and overall presence on the wrist remain unchanged. Why change a winning “team” when the 39mm Essence is the brand’s […] Visit Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm to read the full article.
Fratello
Microbrands have come a long way. What were once largely associated with inexpensive, enthusiast-driven watches have developed into a much broader part of the industry. Today, small brands are experimenting with materials, movements, manufacturing techniques, and design in ways that can make them serious alternatives to more established names. In this episode of Fratello Talks, […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
Bvlgari’s Aluminium collection is one of their most disruptive collections, but does the cult classic still hold up? Let’s find out! What We Love: Highly wearable Unconventional, fun design Accessible relative to the catalogue What We Don’t: Underdeveloped movement Round lugs get caught under sleeves Can a cult classic become a flagship piece? Overall Rating: 7.5/10 Value for Money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality:7/10 ‘Accessibility’ and ‘Bvlgari’ aren’t two terms that usually go hand-in-hand. This is mostly by design; the Italo-Swiss brand is mostly known for its extreme luxuries, combining the very best of the jewellery and watchmaking industries to do so. This often leads to designs of equally high ambition and extravagance, such as the Octo Finissimo’s record-breaking history or the inspired silhouette of its Diva’s Dream collection. But for as ostentatious as Bvlgari’s average price tag can be, the brand also offers its signature disruption at a relatively accessible price point. Through the Bvlgari Aluminium, a collection assembled from a medley of design cues from watches past, the brand proposes a sporty timepiece that is neither built nor designed like anything else. Not only does the line look like it was frozen in time, but its combination of aluminium and rubber is an experiment in materials unlike anything else on the market. But does the watch’s uniqueness still stand on its own, even when surrounded by a sea of h...
Worn & Wound
It’s somewhat hard to believe (well, hard for me to believe, anyway) but 2026 marks the ninth year of Ming. If you had told me in the earliest days of the brand in 2017 that less than a decade later they’d factor in as one of the more important independent watch brands of their era, I’m not sure how I’d have reacted. For me, the early days were a tough sell. Ming had trouble meeting demand for their watches in those first years, which can be a good problem to have of course, but can also lead to all kinds of issues with would-be customers as the expectations game gets played out in public. They’ve solved for that largely with smart planning, and a release strategy that sees a mix of accessible pieces with more haute horlogerie oriented fare, all with a design language that is immediately recognizable and all their own. To celebrate their ninth anniversary, Ming has introduced 57.05 Comet, a watch that features a worldtimer, one of the brand’s favorite complications, in an interesting new way. It’s also the latest watch in their fifth-generation design language, which incorporates a genuinely unique take on their own flying blade lugs, twisted with deep Art Deco tropes. According to Ming, the 57.05 takes its name from the de Havilland Comet, which aviation enthusiasts will recognize right away as the world’s first commercial jet airliner. The watch, like many worldtimers, is meant as both a useful aid to travelers and an ode of sorts to a more romantic e...
Hodinkee
What We Know Maison Alcée jumped headlong into the watch community consciousness in 2023, winning the GPHG 'Audacity Prize' in recognition of the brand's unique do-it-yourself, high horology, clock-building kits. Championed by Ben, who served on the GPHG jury that year, the French husband-and-wife team of Alcée and Benoit Montfort went on to craft a highly successful LE collaboration with Hodinkee (with lume!) that quickly sold out. Now Alcée and Benoit are back with another collaboration that takes their clock-making kit to the next level. Collaborating with MB&F;, who have long supported Maison Alcée by showcasing and selling their work at their Mad Gallery locations, the Maison Alcée x MB&F; Nostromo leans hard into the well-established alien aesthetic the Geneva-based creative force is known for. Adding to the intrigue is that this clock was designed by MB&F;'s Creative Designer, Maximilian Maertens. He's the young German who is slowly and purposefully starting to take the lead on some of MB&F;'s pieces, as Max Büsser begins to step back and give up a bit of creative control over the collective brand project he founded more than two decades ago. So what makes this Maison Alcée kit interesting and different? It's certainly expressive of the MB&F; design language, with the arched base legs or feet giving it an extraterrestrial personality. Maertens says he's a fan of and inspired by the late Swiss artist H.R. Giger (check out the wild Giger Museum in Gruyères if y...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jack Mason expands its Canton line with the Day-Date, an automatic with a milled guilloché dial, panoramic day display, and US assembly.
Hodinkee
Luminox is honoring its partnership with Force Blue by releasing a new Pacific Diver reference designed around the pair's shared mission to protect and rehabilitate the world's oceans. Luminox has a long history of working with branches of the US Military since their founding in 1989, but their relationship with Force Blue is a bit different. To better understand their mission and get a first look at a new watch built around the partnership, I hopped on a plane down to Miami with fins and mask in hand, ready to dive with the team. Many brands claim working relationships with military outfits, each with varying degrees of formality. Whether it's a licensed relationship to use military trademarks, or even individual service members using their personal watches, the link between a brand and the act of service can be difficult to judge at a glance. For Luminox, that connection was baked in from the get-go. In 1992, founder Barry Cohen worked with Assistant Research, Development, Test and Evaluation (RDT&E;) Officer Nick North to develop a watch specifically for the Navy SEALs using their tritium tube-based Luminox Light Technology (LLT). The Navy SEAL watch was the first stone in what would become a broad foundation of work with special forces and law enforcement groups worldwide. It's a foundation that Mondain would continue to lean on after acquiring a stake in the brand in 2006 and full ownership in 2016. Today, Luminox maintains a licensing relationship with the US Navy SEA...
Monochrome
With the introduction of its BR-01 model in 2005, Bell & Ross took flight with its graphic, cockpit-inspired design language, translated into the brand’s signature circle-within-a-square geometry. In 2019, the brand ventured into less military, more urban terrain with its BR-05, a luxury integrated sports watch. As with the transition from the BR-01 to the […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to watches, “weird, wonderful, and complicated” rarely mix well with “value,” which makes Xeric such a fun anomaly of a brand. Not afraid of odd-shaped cases, wild colors, and unique ways of telling time, Xeric has forged a catalog unlike any other brand’s. You won’t find vintage divers or Calatrava-esque dress watches among its offerings, or much else that could be considered “on trend.” You will find, however, wandering hours, upside-down movements, jump hours, and retrograde displays, mostly under $2,000, with many under $1,000. The post Introducing the Xeric x Worn & Wound Sector Limited Editions appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Worldtimers are among the most practical complications for frequent travellers, yet they have, apart from a few high-end, complex watches, one persistent limitation: daylight saving time. Twice a year, depending on where you are, the neat logic of a conventional worldtime display becomes… not so neat anymore. The new 57.05 Comet by indie watchmaker Ming […]
SJX Watches
Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Ming has introduced the 57.05 Comet, a DST-compatible worldtimer with a clever two-piece bezel. The Comet also upholds the long tradition of worldtimers with decorative dials, in this case with a dynamic interference pattern that changes throughout the day. Initial thoughts There are few complications that embody jet-set optimism like the Cottier-style worldtimer, with its noble ambition to create a unified view of the time everywhere on Earth. This inspiration is ever-present in the 57.05 Comet, which takes its name from the world’s first passenger jet, the de Havilland Comet. Interestingly, the worldtime format was partially obsolete even before Cottier came up with his ingenious display in 1931, due to adoption of what we now call Daylight Saving Time (DST) in several Western countries around 1918. I’ve always resented the fact that DST significantly reduces the effectiveness of one of the most elegant complications in watchmaking. Some brands have proposed solutions to this issue, but often the result is overly complex or visually cluttered. Ming’s solution is so intuitive it seems obvious in retrospect, with a two-piece bezel that moves DST observers 15 degrees counterclockwise in the summer to align with the correct hour. Summer mode is indicated by a cut-out in the mobile section of the bezel that reveals a (slightly) luminous red indicator. To be clear, it’s not a perfect solution, since different countries begin and end DST obse...
Deployant
Bell & Ross introduces a new BR-X5 featuring a meteorite dial, the BR-CAL.323 movement and the collection's distinctive multi-component 41 mm case.
Monochrome
Just ahead of Geneva Watch Days, MB&F; has teamed up with Maison Alcée to release a wonderful build-it-yourself mechanical desk clock. Celebrating the 15th anniversary of MB&F;’s M.A.D. Gallery, the two brands have collaborated on Nostromo, an alien-like creature that reflects MB&F;’s passion for extraterrestrial design and Maison Alcée’s dexterity in producing DIY desk clock […]
Hodinkee
Organizers of The Escapement, a planned gathering aimed at attracting thousands of watch collectors and enthusiasts, featuring major independent brands and scheduled for November in Abu Dhabi, canceled the event due to corporate travel restrictions related to the ongoing military conflict in the Middle East. They say they will now stage the three-day show in Las Vegas in February, 2027. Neeshu Hajra, a U.S.-based luxury event-planning executive who is among the shareholders of the group organizing the event, said some watch brands and executives would have been unable to attend the show at the Etihad Arena in Abu Dhabi due to travel policies affected by the ongoing war in the region. The Escapement will now hold its inaugural event next year at the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas from February 5 to 7. "Our decision was mainly made due to corporate travel policies that affected certain brands and the ability to come. Ultimately, because this is our inaugural edition, we want to make sure that we have the strongest showing and the best surface area for success," Hajra said in an interview. "The community experience in its totality, both leading up to the event and on site, led us to really believe in Vegas," he added. Biver watches is one of the many brands expected to exhibit at The Escapement. The event's cancellation and rescheduling underscore the challenges and disruptions to global business and the watch industry amid military conflicts in the Middle East and Ukrai...
Fratello
Well, you never know what you’ll find when opening an email from Ming. This time, it’s the new 57.05 Comet, a stirring take on a worldtimer with a couple of party tricks up its sleeve. While I haven’t seen this watch in the metal, I’ve certainly spent enough time with the brand’s other offerings to […] Visit Streaking Through The Heavens With The New Ming 57.05 Comet to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year marked the 60th anniversary of the first-ever dive watch created by Seiko, the now-emblematic 62MAS model. Still a great source of inspiration for the brand, its clean and purposeful design has been modernised to be the basis for the creation of the contemporary yet retro-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver 300m. Last year, the […]
Monochrome
There’s nothing conventional at Urwerk, and hardly any watch feels classic. Even the watch with the most traditional display of the time, the UR-10 SpaceMeter, remains some sort of a horological UFO for the wrist. And when you move from the wrist to the pocket, the brand becomes even more expressive, as exemplified by the extraordinary […]
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