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Monochrome
Haute-Rive may be a young brand founded in 2022, but it comes with serious horological backing. Its founder, Stéphane von Gunten, is a micromechanical engineer with decades of experience in academic research and high-end watchmaking. When the time came to launch his brand, he named it Haute-Rive, a nod to the original workshop of his […]
Worn & Wound
Elliott O’Donavan’s go-to watch is his IWC Mark XVIII. His go-to camera is his Leica Q3. The DC-based photographer has taken portraits of seemingly everyone in town. Corporate executives, activists, politicians, journalists - his client list is a veritable who’s who of Washington, DC, with famous faces like CNN’s Jake Tapper and former Secretary of the Army Christine Wormuth popping up on Elliott’s Instagram feed. And he sees a lot of overlap in his profession and his approach to collecting watches. “The way that I look at watches really describes the way that I photograph portraits. I don’t want my portraits to look dated. I don’t want them to look like something that was shot in the early aughts or in a certain decade. I want it to be like, ‘He could have taken that shot yesterday, or that could be a shot from 1960 or 1970,’” said Elliott in an interview with Worn & Wound. Elliott’s interest in watches traces back to the digital Casios his dad wore when Elliott was a child. “That was very much just for utility,” said Elliot. “But also to me, it had, like a certain element of style to it.” That interest in his father’s watch became an opportunity for father-son bonding, with Elliott recalling that his dad would take him out to buy inexpensive watches starting when he was about seven. “I would usually get the same watch that he had,” said Elliot. Over the years, his tastes evolved and his budget grew. Today, Elliott has a neovintag...
Teddy Baldassarre
At this point it’s a cliché to even mention how outdated and prehistoric a universally negative or condescending view of “Made in China” is in the world of watchmaking. Some of the most interesting new watch brands, and a consistently growing roster of some of the most talented and resourceful living watchmakers, are establishing reputations matching, or indeed exceeding, those out of Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. In this article I have assembled just 15 of these names, some of which have been around for decades and some of which are just coming on the scene. For your reading ease, I’ve broken these down into three categories: the established brands; the watchmakers; and the upstarts. Let’s start with the Chinese watch brand most of you already know… The Established Brands Seagull Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, aka Seagull, recently celebrated its 70th anniversary, and it’s not hard to see why this giant is the most well known and prolific Chinese mechanical-watch producer. The brand made China’s first Air Force Chronograph, which has been reissued as the iconic Seagull 1963 chronograph, a watch that still represents tremendous value at around $300. But it’s not just all affordable stuff these days. Last year, I wrote about the Seagull Split-Second Chronograph, calling it one of the best values in watchmaking at $3,200. Beyond the basic chronograph and this rattrapante, Seagull has added tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters to its repe...
Monochrome
Raymond Weil’s Millesime collection has fast become the brand’s bestseller, thanks to its convincing retro design, decent outsourced automatic movements, and competitive prices. The Millesime Chronograph was added to the collection last year and stands out with its attractive reverse panda dial references. The latest 39mm chronographs, available in steel with a grey dial and […]
Monochrome
Surprisingly, Seiko’s first mechanical dive watch with a GMT function was introduced to the collection only two years ago, with the references SPB381, SPB383, and the Save the Ocean limited edition reference SPB385. Inspired by the 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver, these office GMT watches came with a 200m water-resistance. Only a couple of months ago, […]
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Time+Tide
A hand-wound calibre on full display, with plenty of hand-finishing... But does the Garrick S3 Deadbeat Seconds justify its price?The post The S3 Deadbeat Seconds becomes Garrick’s most expensive watch, but is it worth it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s Complicated Desk Clock Ref. 27000M-001 is the biggest release of Watches & Wonders 2025, with a footprint of 164.6 by 125 mm, and rising to 76.73 mm at its apex. Priced at an even CHF1 million before taxes, the clock is powered by a key-wound, 31-day movement – incorporating a one-second remontoir d’egalite – housed in a wedge-shaped sterling silver cabinet, decorated with green flinqué enamel. Initial thoughts While we’ve seen desk and table clocks from others in the space, none have been as incredibly high-effort as this. Patek Philippe claims the 912-part shaped caliber took seven years of development, including nine patent applications. That’s quite the investment in a product with limited mainstream appeal, and I find it reassuring that Patek Philippe is still willing to make those investments. The enamel work is enchanting and has precedent in early 20th-century silver travel clocks retailed by Cartier, among others. I could take or leave the baroque styling, but the dial and hidden “dashboard” look fantastic. I hope Patek Philippe will offer this movement in other styles down the road. If you’ve never experienced a key-winding watch or clock, it’s quite satisfying; I wouldn’t call it fun, but it’s not something you’re likely to get sick of. It’s an experience you can’t get with Patek Philippe’s other current production clocks, which use an electric motor to wind the movement without need of human intervention. The b...
Worn & Wound
Nomos is always a safe bet when someone who isn’t very into watches but is perhaps interested in dabbling is looking for a recommendation. That is not to say that those of us who are very into watches don’t appreciate them either. A darling of watch enthusiasts, the Glashütte manufacture manages to package watch nerdery into easy-to-digest, colorful, modern morsels. But, and I say this only as an adoring fan (my first manufacture watch was a Nomos I still own), in the last few years, their novelties have felt mostly iterative, focusing on colors and sizes (and don’t get me started on calling a manual watch watch the Minimatik – what does -matik mean if not automatic?!). Thankfully, they broke this trend with the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Club Worldtimer from here out), which was easily a favorite from this year’s Watches & Wonders. Typically, with a hands-on article, I would start with the watch’s case or dial, but the thing that stood out most to me about the Club Worldtimer was the quality of the click. Up, at 2 p.m. on the case, is a single pump-pusher that is used to jump the hour hand one hour forward and progress the city ring accordingly. I don’t know how many pushers I’ve pushed since I’ve gotten into watches, which, mind you, was when I was a child, but this was one of, if not the best, feeling pushers I’ve encountered. It has a perfect, crisp action that is reflected in a snappy and satisfying jump of the hour hand. To ...
Monochrome
Now that the dust has settled after Watches & Wonders, it’s time to cast an eye on an unexpected watch from A. Lange & Söhne. While the trend for more compact case diameters has taken hold of the market, A. Lange & Söhne’s 1815 watch takes a much bolder step with its surprisingly small 34mm […]
Monochrome
Founded in 2018 by industry veteran William Massena, design studio Massena LAB has grown rapidly to become a burgeoning project with more than one string to its bow, ranging from accessible watches with Unimatic to high-end timepieces conceived with independent watchmakers. In the latter category, Massena LAB has worked already twice with talented watchmaker Raúl Pagès, […]
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Worn & Wound
James Cox (c.1723-1800) was a British jeweler, goldsmith and entrepreneur and the proprietor of Cox’s Museum. Cox produced lavishly ornamented automata for trade with the Far East, first with India and then with China, where the reception of his ‘toys’ or ‘sing-songs’, as the Chinese are believed to have called them, was at first a huge success. Cox was an extraordinary gentleman living in 18th century London. This was a time of great opulence with the wealthiest showing their status through objects they commissioned and owned. Cox was a clockmaker, jeweler, and entrepreneur known for creating elaborate and decorative timepieces, automata, and mechanical curiosities. He gained fame for his luxury goods, which were highly sought after by the elite. Cox’s work blended mechanical innovation with exquisite craftsmanship, producing items that were not just functional but also ornamental and artistic. Cox’s career as a jeweler began as early as 1751, and his automata were designed by leading artists including Johann Zoffany and Joseph Nollekens. In the 1760s, John Joseph Merlin became his apprentice. Though he declared himself a goldsmith, he employed several jewelers and manufacturers who would have done much of the work. Jewel cabinet with watch signed James Cox, c.1765-70. Image courtesy of the Met Museum This cabinet is an excellent example of an exquisite item made by Cox and bearing his signature. On its doors are enameled personifications of Winter and S...
Monochrome
Nivada Grenchen goes back almost a century to 1926 and was known for many watches, including its early automatics in 1930 and Antarctic model in the 1950s that was used during a South Pole expedition with the US Navy. The original F77 from 1977 had an octagonal bezel and integrated design that was trending thanks […]
Quill & Pad
Like many connected to the watch industry, Ian Skellern has wondered at just how much of an impact the US tariffs are likely to have on the watch industry. And todate he has found no clearer explanation of what's likely to happen than by Teddy Baldassarre, who is both a US watch retailer and prominent watch reviewer and journalist.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
After getting into watches seriously, the Orient Mako was the diver that served as the gateway drug into this hobby. I know it was either that or a Seiko SKX for most of us but because of this, the Orient Mako will always have a special place in the collection. I still have it, it was my wedding watch, and that beautiful blue dial still gets me from time to time. Recently, the brand announced a set of anniversary models for their 75th anniversary and the dials just shot out in a way that was too appealing to not mention here on TBWS. Let's take a look at these new Orient Mako references RA-AA0823L and RA-AC0Q12L.
SJX Watches
Hermès recently revisited a whimsical complication first introduced some 14 years ago, the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Still retaining the quirky “suspended time” complication, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu gains a multi-layer, open-worked dial that reveals the interesting mechanics behind the mechanism. And it’s been scaled down slightly to 42 mm thanks to a movement upgrade. Initial thoughts I liked the original Le Temps Suspendu, both in terms of form and function. The complication isn’t practical, but it is unique and appropriate for the elegant, whimsical house style of Hermès. The original was a large watch, and the modestly downsized new version is an improvement. The thinner case is possible thanks to a Vaucher base movement, which is a step up over the ETA 2892 in the original. More notably, the open-worked dial adds substantially to the visual appeal. Besides giving the dial more depth, it reveals the surprisingly complex mechanism devised by Agenhor for Hermès. Though the complication is simple on its face, the mechanics required to pull it off are significant, and now they are on show. And most surprising of all, the new Arceau Le Temps Suspendu costs less than the original from 2011, with the rose gold variants priced a little under US$40,000. This is despite the upgraded base movement and more elaborate dial. It runs counter to prevailing practice in high-end watchmaking, and reflects the generally reasonably pricing of Hermès watches. Suspendin...
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Teddy Baldassarre
I love when Seiko gets niche, quirky, or just straight-up weird. There was the Egg-Boiling watch for, well, boiling eggs. And then there was even a “Vampire-Exclusive” watch for those who choose to live that lifestyle. But the Seiko Metronome from 2022 is special because it really has a practical purpose and is a little extra nifty because it was made by Seiko Instruments, which is the brand’s division responsible for electric components, printers, and - you guessed it - metronomes. There were several versions of the watch produced in different colors but the Seiko Metronome SMW006A seen here is definitely one of the cleaner and better-looking models. A basic primer for those unfamiliar with this instrument: a metronome is a device that creates a steady beat (either audibly or visually) measured by BPM (Beats Per Minute) to help musicians stay on rhythm. Design: Before getting into the functionality and novelty of the Seiko Metronome, I want to talk about how well designed it is. It would be easy to relegate this watch into the "technical instrument" bucket that so often leads to the “function over form” thinking that results in such obscure and, for lack of a better word, “nerdy” designs that can be really quite off-putting. The Seiko Metronome, and more specifically the reference SMW006A, avoids falling into that trap by leaning into a minimalist, almost-Bauhaus design that belies the data-heavy display of its functionality. The matte white dial is arra...
Monochrome
The word is out-Tudor is swimming against the current downsizing trend, boldly introducing the new 43mm Black Bay 68 series. First impressions are in, and now all that’s left is to see how the customer responds. Tudor’s reasoning? The brand says it’s about “meeting the demand for various case sizes to fit all types of […]
Worn & Wound
We have officially reached that point in the integrated bracelet sports watch trend where the late entrants are getting their second generation, “improved” models to market. Case in point, Nivada-Grenchen and their F77. The F77 launched in March of 2023, a time period that most would agree saw the hype around this genre of watch begin to cool in a significant way. That doesn’t take anything away from the F77 as a watch, of course. I’m rather fond of the size and geometry of this one, and it’s a genuine part of Nivada’s heritage. But in terms of its timing, it did debut at “peak” integrated bracelet sports watch mania. And so here we are, two years later, and Nivada has launched a Mark II version of the F77. We’re now at a point, I think, where integrated bracelet sports watches are just part of the landscape, and a required offering for any brand wishing to cast even a somewhat wide net. It makes sense, then, that Nivada would work to improve theirs. From the looks of it, they’ve made some fairly substantial changes to the case that could have a real impact on how the F77 wears, and it certainly has an impact on the overall aesthetic of the watch. The case measures 12.2mm thick, which is not appreciably different from the previous version, but the lugs have been completely redesigned. The first F77 had lugs that were quite flat and, for an integrated bracelet sports watch, fairly long. The new F77 Mark II has lugs that are much more dramatically curve...
Time+Tide
Slender, small and elegant, Lange's smallest 1815 is somewhat of a challenge to the expectations of the brand.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s smallest-yet 1815 is a masterclass in restraint appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Panerai has added a lot of value back into the Luminor Marina line, though there are a few trade-offs.
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Worn & Wound
If you’ve read any of my work, you’ll know I’ve always had a fascination for 1980s and 90s watch design. It’s a period often overlooked within the collecting community, and through my writing and research, I hope to bring some much-needed attention to it. A few months ago, I wrote an article about the Timex Skiathlom that seemed to interest many of our readers. Another fun piece Timex produced during this same era was the Triprix. Though not as flashy as the Skiathlom, several notable aspects of its design set it apart from your typical digital watch. It’s fun, it’s mighty functional, and it’s as close to owning a Seiko Giugiaro for under $100 as you can get––what’s there not to love? The Triprix’s History and Design According to information gathered through various forums, advertisements, and websites, the Triprix was released in the late 1980s and continued production throughout the early 1990s. The model came out during a period where Timex set their eyes on producing timepieces aimed at sporting and leisure activities like skiing, surfing, fishing, sailing, and running. The central idea was for these timepieces to feature an array of functions that would assist the owner in their leisurely endeavors. According to a 1990 catalog, all variants of the Triprix sold for $40, the equivalent of roughly $100 by today’s standards. Moving to its design overall, the most noticeable aspect is its slanted digital display. Reminiscent of Seiko’s A828 Digi...
Teddy Baldassarre
The pilot watch genre is a funny thing. These watches are marketed and sold for their connection to history and/or their usefulness within the field of aviation. This history has set a visual identity that defines the genre to this day, with complications like flyback timers and slide rules often featuring heavily. Of course, very few of the owners put these features to use, with fewer still serving as actual pilots. Thus, the pilot watch genre really serves as more of a vibe than any kind of practical watermark. There are exceptions to this, however, and ironically enough, some of the most practical everyday tool watches find themselves with the “pilot watch” designation, and there is perhaps no better example of this than the IWC Mark XX. The name of the game with any great tool watch is clarity. Ideally, there’s nothing superfluous to cloud the core goals of the tool, with a premium placed on simple legibility. One of the strongest templates based on this ethos is the IWC Mark XI from the late ‘40s. It wasn’t the first IWC Mk watch, but it is the one responsible for casting a die that persists to this day in the form of the Mk XX. There are important distinctions, which I’ll get to, but the underpinnings of the modern Mk XX collection are built on the same general formula that made the Mk XI great: it’s easy to use, easy to understand, easy to wear, and is exactly as stout as it needs to be. IWC enjoys a highly developed design language for its range of pi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Iceland is a place of extremes: glaciers, geothermal hot springs, and black sand beaches shaped by volcanic fury. It’s also a place where time seems to slow down and I thought it was ideal for reflecting on both nature and time spent with family-shaping memories I'll never forget. Watches were also part of the journey, of course. And as I prepared for the trip, the exercise behind choosing which timepieces to bring was something I deeply enjoyed. Now that I'm back, I just wanted to reflect on those choices and how they played a role in my first trip outside the US since the COVID era. I needed it, and it was awesome.
SJX Watches
In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...
Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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