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Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the K Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Oct 29, 2024

Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the K

The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren. 1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com) While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before - on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner - indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for...

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Fratello
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Oct 29, 2024

Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Today, we’ll briefly examine the new De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon, a thin titanium watch with a visible movement. Of course, it uses the brand’s characteristic spring-loaded, floating lugs that hug the wrist. It’s a lovely piece worth checking out! We spent time with De Bethune at Geneva Watch Days 2024 and saw several […] Visit Hot Take: The New De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing Fratello
Oct 29, 2024

Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we tackle a listener question about pairing watches and straps with our clothing. Do we care or put a lot of thought into what watches we wear with our garb? Stick around to find out more. Watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. This […] Visit Fratello On Air: Matching Watches And Straps To Clothing to read the full article.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 28, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow Review

There are some watches that kind of stay with you. They may not be in your wheelhouse as far as taste is concerned (or at least what you think your taste is), but something about them just resonates. This is how I feel, and have felt, about the Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow, a watch that has been in production for some time, one that I have reviewed in the past, and one that I still do not own but which continues to take up valuable real estate in my brain.  The version of the watch that I got turned onto was the only one available until recently - a blasted-finish, black-coated titanium chronograph in the retro A384 case format that plays on the past but brings a decidedly modern design sensibility to the overall package. The dial is a matte, flat black and the text on it is well thought-out in terms of the vintage effect, down to the printing of the logos and numerals. It’s as if you’re looking at a museum artifact, except that it's packed with one of the best modern automatic chronograph movements in the game, Zenith's own El Primero, and at 37mm it fits perfectly on my 6.25-inch wrist. If you have been paying attention to Zenith over the past half-decade or so, you are sure to notice that the brand has done quite a job in balancing vintage revivals with innovative new releases. It’s the only brand I know that revives a watch and keeps everything true to form down to the clasp on a bracelet. I recall handling another Shadow model – the Defy Shadow ...

First Look – The Awake Son Mài Collection, a New Direction for the Brand with its First Permanent Range Monochrome
Oct 28, 2024

First Look – The Awake Son Mài Collection, a New Direction for the Brand with its First Permanent Range

Coming up for its fifth anniversary, French indie brand Awake releases Son Mài, its first permanent collection comprised of four time-only references illustrating the art of ancestral Vietnamese sanded lacquer paired with the application of pure silver leaf gilding. Marking a new direction for the brand, the former titanium cases and Miyota movements have been […]

Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? Fratello
Oct 28, 2024

Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore?

Watch brands are on a high-paced treadmill to constantly release new watches. In fact, most brands release several new models every single year. Why? “To remain relevant” is an often-heard explanation. Or it could be to provide a constant stimulus to drive sales. Could this be why most new watches receive lukewarm responses from the […] Visit Can We Even Be Pleasantly Surprised By New Watches Anymore? to read the full article.

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage Fratello
Moritz Grossmann Oct 27, 2024

It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage

Admittedly, I’ve never covered a watch from Moritz Grossmann. A couple of weeks ago, though, I received an email that caught my attention. The new Benu 37 Arabic Vintage may look simple, but there’s plenty to uncover. The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann established an atelier in Glashütte and began […] Visit It’s All In The Details: The New Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabic Vintage to read the full article.

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko s New Prospex SPB481 Oct 27, 2024

Seiko’s New Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 Dive Watches

Seiko has an enduring lineup of "greatest hits" dive watches-from the rugged Turtle and Tuna to the angular Samurai. Yet with the release of the new Seiko Prospex models (SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485), Seiko introduces an eye-catching design that’s distinctly different from anything we’ve seen in its catalog, while still staying true to its tool-watch roots. I'm still not sure how I feel about these but I like that Seiko took a significant design leap with these new divers.

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold Fratello
Nomos Tangente Oct 26, 2024

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold

We know Nomos best for its minimalistic, Bauhaus-inspired stainless steel watches. However, the brand has quite a few references with gold accents and even offers watches with full-gold cases. Now we can add two more references to this list because the brand from Glashütte has released the Tangente and Orion Neomatik Doré. Both watches feature […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold to read the full article.

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Worn & Wound
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oct 25, 2024

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions y...

Review: One Month With The White-Dial Hamilton Murph 38 Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Oct 25, 2024

Review: One Month With The White-Dial Hamilton Murph 38

The Hamilton Murph is a watch with which I am very familiar, and a model that I have spent quite a bit of time with. In fact, I even wrote a story on this very site about my exploits for nearly two years with my personal Hamilton Khaki Murph 38. But this year, Hamilton went and surprised us all by delivering a watch nobody saw coming: The Murph 38 with a white dial. What makes this watch controversial? Well, everything - and I don't mean that pejoratively. The thing is, the OG Murph was, truly, a film prop – a movie watch that didn't actually exist within the brand's collection. It wasn’t until the fans demanded Hamilton make it real that that the watch was made manifest at its true 42mm size. And then, a couple years later, Hamilton heard the cries for a 38mm version and delivered. So you could say that the Murph has always been a watch in response to demand, first by director Christopher Nolan for the film Interstellar, and then by us, the watch nerds. The black dials, in either size were true to the movie Murph. It’s this new white dial that deviates... considerably. As a fan of the watch and the movie, I had to get the white Murph, and so I did. So this is an owner’s review from an owner who's had just over one month with the thing. My first sort of high-level observation is the idea that the Murph 38 White takes the collection into a new place. It was launched alongside another version with a black dial on bracelet, and both releases signify a shift...

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Worn & Wound
Lorier Oct 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph

No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 Fratello
Christopher Ward Desk Diver Oct 25, 2024

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024

Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, is a busy man these days. I have barely recovered from the Christopher Ward Desk Diver, and now he is back with a collab with Spinnaker. It goes to show that the often snobby watch world is looking for some lighthearted fun. Well, lighthearted fun is what we get today! This […] Visit Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 to read the full article.

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch Monochrome
Raymond Weil Oct 25, 2024

First Look – The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch

Pop culture icons are increasingly in vogue and luxury watch brands have been surfing the wave of comic or cartoon-themed timepieces. Raymond Weil is the latest brand to join this trend with a limited edition inspired by Largo Winch, the gentleman-adventurer created by Belgian cartoonist Philippe Francq. Yet instead of featuring the iconic character on a dial […]