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Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT $6,900 Jul 22, 2025

Hands-On: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

There’s something satisfying about handling a watch that feels like it knows exactly what it is. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 (L3.803.5.53.6) landed on my wrist with that kind of confident presence-not shouting for attention, but quietly competent in the way good tool watches should be. At 39mm with a mix of steel and 18-karat rose gold, it’s Longines’ centennial nod to their 1925 original, the world’s first dual time zone wristwatch. The question isn’t whether it’s historically significant-it obviously is-but whether it actually earns its place in today’s crowded GMT field. Longines, GMT Watches, and the Inevitable Tudor Question Let’s address the elephant in the room: if you’re shopping GMT watches around this price point, you’ve probably looked at the Tudor Black Bay GMT ($4,675). It’s the obvious comparison, sitting at roughly the same price with similar functionality. But where Tudor leans into its diving heritage with a rotating 24-hour bezel, Longines approaches GMT complications from their aviation roots. The Spirit Zulu Time 1925 isn’t trying to be a dive watch that happens to track time zones-it’s purpose-built for travelers and pilots who need to know what time it is “there.” The other natural competitors include the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT ($6,900), the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer ($3,175), and the NOMOS Zürich Worldtimer ($6,100). But it’s worth noting these watches solve the multi-timezone problem...

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Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Heritage Watch collecting Jul 22, 2025

Owner’s Review: Evolving as a Collector with the Louis Erard Heritage

Watch collecting is filled with stories of love at first sight, which I guess makes sense considering the hobby revolves around looking at watches. Stare at enough stranger’s wrists, browse enough boutiques and partake in enough endless scrolling sessions, and it’s only a matter of time before cupid’s horological arrow strikes. If your watch consumption habits are as excessive as mine, you’ll likely be struck on a regular basis. Knowing when to embrace these moments through distant appreciation and when to splurge by breaking out the credit card is a balancing act that comes down to personal finances and individualized collecting goals. Have stacks of cash and enjoy rotating through dozens of watches? Sounds like a green light to hit that buy button whenever your heart desires. Writing monthly checks for your kid’s extra curricular activities that are high enough to make even your inflated grocery expenses blush? We have plenty of room for you in the strapped for cash parents club, where we maintain concise collections that prioritize frill free practicality over opulence. As a proud member and self-designated ambassador of the latter group, I’ve set a limit of $300 for individual purchases. Yes, it sounds low, and compared with most of the collectors that are likely to appear in your Instagram feed, it is. But armed with patience and a penchant for bargain hunting, it’s really not all that limiting and has allowed me to embrace love at first sight with two B...

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Top 10 Watch Brands In India Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 22, 2025

Top 10 Watch Brands In India

Before I get into the top 10 watch brands in India, it’s worth talking about the Indian watch market overall. This is because even in the face of some regional slowdown, India has become one of the fastest growing markets for Swiss watch exports with an astounding 25% increase in 2025, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Brands like Rado, Longines, and Montblanc are as popular as ever in India, but what about the state of watchmaking in India? Well, it’s a bit of a mixed bag, and there are a few things we need to understand before getting into the my selections for the top 10 watch brands in India. First, India is not yet at the level of having a watchmaking infrastructure like that of China. The basic history of Indian watchmaking begins with the nationalized HMT in the 1960s and '70s, but the quartz revolution had a big, negative impact on mechanical watchmaking in the country. I’d say 2015 marked a change in the landscape of Indian watches, when microbrands for enthusiasts began to pick up in popularity. Again, while the infrastructure to manufacture movement components and parts in India is still not there, the passion for history and design has propelled some brands as hometown enthusiast darlings. I spent quite a bit of time researching this topic, and I do want to shout out YouTubers  WatchgyanHindi  and Watch and More India who are making some compelling Hindi content for the South Asian watch enthusiast community. In this list of the ...

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Unimatic Unveils Its New Diving Heritage Collection That Perfectly Captures Vintage Charm Fratello
Unimatic Jul 22, 2025

Unimatic Unveils Its New Diving Heritage Collection That Perfectly Captures Vintage Charm

It has been a while since we covered Unimatic, but that doesn’t mean the Milanese brand hasn’t been very active. On the contrary, Unimatic has recently released a few great collaborations. Among them were its first mechanical chronograph, created with Henry Singer, and a stellar blacked-out chronograph made in collaboration with US clothing brand Todd […] Visit Unimatic Unveils Its New Diving Heritage Collection That Perfectly Captures Vintage Charm to read the full article.

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Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jul 22, 2025

Jaquet Droz Surprises with a Unique Dragon Tourbillon

Continuing with its focus on unique, custom-order watches, Jaquet Droz’s latest brings together art, film and watchmaking. Commissioned by an unnamed collector (who presumably loves J.R.R. Tolkien’s tales), the Tourbillon Dragon “John Howe” stands as a fine example of Swiss watchmaker’s ability to blend artistic crafts with technical watchmaking. It reprises an earlier commission that similarly united The Lord of the Rings and Jaquet Droz watchmaking. Initial thoughts Custom-made one-offs are not uncommon in the world of high horology, with collectors regularly commissioning unique timepieces from both independent and established makers. Most of George Daniels’ creations were commissions, as were the ultra-complicated pocket watches delivered by Vacheron Constantin to a certain Mr Berkley. Unlike other brands, however, Jaquet Droz is now largely specialised in custom or bespoke commissions. It also takes a different and unique approach by collaborating with both the client and an artist of the client’s choosing in making wearable pieces of art. Here the artist John Howe, the Canadian illustrator who was responsible for visualising Tolkien’s fantasy world for the novels and later became artistic director of The Lord of the Rings film series. The timepiece reproduces an artwork created by Mr Howe as a large scale painting that was then was adapted to wristwatch format.  Beyond the impressive miniature painting and pedigree of the motif, the watch stands firm...

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Interview – TEMPORIS International Awards, Celebrating The Full Spectrum Of Today’s Watchmaking Monochrome
Oris International Awards Celebrating Jul 22, 2025

Interview – TEMPORIS International Awards, Celebrating The Full Spectrum Of Today’s Watchmaking

While some thirty years ago, watchmaking was an industry like any other, generating only moderate interest, it has transformed into a center of interest that today commands sustained and multifaceted attention worldwide. An emotional product and bearer of human genius in a disembodied world, the subject of fiercely contested economic issues, the world of watches […]

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Introducing – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm in Ocean Green Monochrome
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm Jul 22, 2025

Introducing – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph 40mm in Ocean Green

Oris’ beloved Divers Sixty-Five series has been charming fans of laid-back, vintage-inspired dive watches for over a decade now. First revived in 2015 to celebrate the Hölstein-based brand’s iconic 1965 dive watch, this collection has since grown into a full family of neo-retro divers and sporty daily wearers, always blending mid-century charm with modern mechanics. […]

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First Look – The Formidable Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech 45 Enters The Permanent Collection Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech 45 Jul 22, 2025

First Look – The Formidable Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech 45 Enters The Permanent Collection

With the case designed for extremes and a dial that prioritises legibility, the new Fifty Fathoms Tech-line is as much a tool underwater as a fun piece on the beach. This year, Blancpain unleashes its technical spirit for everyday adventure with the latest Fifty Fathoms Tech, the first Tech model to enter the permanent collection, […]

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Omega Adds a New “Orange” Seamaster to the Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Adds Jul 21, 2025

Omega Adds a New “Orange” Seamaster to the Collection

The Omega Seamaster is one of the most enduring of watch collections. Over the course of decades, it’s become akin to a household name, as long as your household includes at least one watch collector, or a fan of Pierce Brosnan or Daniel Craig era James Bond. It’s also one of the most fussed over of all sports watches. As popular as it is, it seems like fans of the collection (and its detractors, of course) always have gripes. That’s watches, obviously. But the overwhelming variety in Seamaster World over many years lends itself to sniping about the smallest details. The latest entry into the collection, a new Diver 300M in orange ($6,500), keeps the tradition alive.  It’s a bit of a misnomer, I think, to call this an “orange” watch. The watch is black, with notable orange accents on the seconds hand, the cardinal hour markers, and the strap. Like other recent Seamaster releases (the bronze-gold burgundy release from earlier this year, the James Bond 60th anniversary watch from 2022, and last year’s monochromatic releases teased by Daniel Craig at the Olympics) this one features an aluminum bezel and no date complication. It also forgoes the wave dial for a more subtle, lightly grained matte black. It’s all quite subdued for a watch supposedly defined by citrus.  Much of the commentary around this watch in the days since its unveiling centers on the bezel. It seems many would have preferred an orange bezel that would have clearly evoked the classic Planet...

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Introducing – The New Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – The New Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort

With its continuing pursuit of offering aesthetic variations of unconventional mechanical design, Ulysse Nardin expands its Blast Free Wheel series with the new Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. The concept was introduced in 2018 with the Executive Tourbillon Skeleton Free Wheel and UN added spectacular limited editions with exotic dials a year later, and a Blast […]

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Best Watches Under $10,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 21, 2025

Best Watches Under $10,000

Building a watch collection is generally a progression, beginning with the accumulation of a handful of modestly priced favorites and building toward the quest for pricier and more coveted models as one's knowledge and disposable income grow. We've showcased many worthwhile models in many price categories, but it's the sweet spot between $5,000 to about $10,000 that many consider the most fertile ground for finding some of those Holy Grails of timekeeping from some of the world's legendary watch brands. If you're in the market for your first "icon" watch (and you're looking to buy new rather than vintage or pre-owned), here are 21 of the best watches under $10,000 to consider, all topping out below the five-figure price barrier. Grand Seiko SBGM221 Price: $5,900 Reference:SBGM221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: GS 9S66 In 2017 Grand Seiko released the SBGM221 GMT which has stood as one of the brand’s best values to date. Inspired by some of their 1960s designs, the SBGM221 is characterized by that simple ivory-colored dial and vibrant blue GMT hand not to mention the eminently wearable 39.5mm wide steel case. And then there is the Zaratsu polishing throughout the case and dial which plays with the light in a way that only Grand Seiko seems able to do. The Caliber 9S66 is a tried and tested “true” GMT movement that allows you do independently adjust the hour hand and operates at 4 Hz w...

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Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Casio nally it also applies Jul 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph

I’ve reached the age where I regularly feel the temptation to say things along the lines of “back in the day…” This applies to various things, such as life without smartphones, dial-up modems, and Napster, among others, but occasionally, it also applies to watches. You see, it wasn’t that long ago that things were quite different. Dive watches were all north of 40mm, in-house movements were rare under $5k, microbrands were dismissed as a passing trend, and, most relevantly to this review, mechanical chronographs under a certain price were primarily powered by Valjoux 7750s or a close variant. With sub-dials at 12, 6, and 9, day-dates at three, two-pushers, cam-actuated, and always automatic, approachably priced mechanical chronographs were limited in their design options. Even 3, 6, 9 layouts were rare, powered by 7753s or ETA 2894s, and often limited to Swatch group brands. The point is that in 2025, it’s almost hard to imagine a world of such limited chronograph options. Today, thanks largely to Sellitta, 3, 9, and 3, 6, 9 layouts are typical (I actually miss 12, 6, 9 now), monopushers are no big deal, manual winding is an option, flybacks, GMTs, and even column-wheels are on the table. Simply put, it’s a good time to be a chronograph fan. Yet, even in this golden-age of chronographs (ok, that might be a stretch), there is room to stand out. Enter Albishorn, which launched in 2024 with a series of chronographs powered by a bespoke movement, based on a fun r...

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IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic with the “Top Gun” Miramar SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic Jul 21, 2025

IWC Debuts Pale Blue Ceramic with the “Top Gun” Miramar

IWC continues to grow its line of ceramic-cased pilot’s watches with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar (ref. IW389409). A limited edition of 1,000 pieces unlike most other ceramic models that are regular production, the Miramar joins the pilot’s watches with ceramic cases in white, dark green, dark blue, beige, and of course classic black. For someone who wants the same colour, but for half the price, IWC has also launched the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 with a “Miramar blue” dial and stainless steel case (ref. IW388117) that’s regular production. Initial thoughts The IWC aviator’s watches with ceramic cases are generally appealing, the ceramic cases add a cool factor to an otherwise standard and functional design. But there are now a lot of them in multiple colours. The range of colours feels a little much, especially for a watch that meant to be rooted in aviation instruments. Because of the historical basis of IWC’s pilot’s watch line, the collection has always seemed a bit more serious minded, but the many colours run counter to that. That is, the Miramar itself is a likeable watch. The colour is unusual and fun while also being different. It brings to mind the fashionable shade of baby blue associated with Tiffany & Co., but is clearly different in being darker. And IWC’s build quality is always reliable; the cal. 69380 inside is an industrial workhorse found across the brand’s catalogue. The Miramar is also priced correctly, th...

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Introducing – New Gradient Dials for the Rado Captain Cook 39mm Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook 39mm It’s Jul 21, 2025

Introducing – New Gradient Dials for the Rado Captain Cook 39mm

It’s fair to say that genuine horological novelties, in the form of complications and new collections, have given way to a more trend-oriented approach in the watch industry. Riding the wave, many brands revisit popular collections in more compact case dimensions and different materials, treating the dials to seasonal colours. Rado’s Captain Cook, the brand’s […]

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Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe Fratello
Rado Captain Cook Models Jul 21, 2025

Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe

Captain James Cook (1728–1779) was a British Royal Navy officer, explorer, and cartographer who made a name for himself with his three voyages of exploration to the Pacific and Southern Oceans between 1768 and 1779 - arduous and hazardous work. The watch named after him was launched in 1962. Since then, numerous models, ranging from […] Visit Introducing: Two New 39mm Rado Captain Cook Models With A Holiday Vibe to read the full article.

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First Look – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Miramar In Ceramic & Steel (Incl. Video) Monochrome
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Jul 21, 2025

First Look – The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 TOP GUN Miramar In Ceramic & Steel (Incl. Video)

For quite some years now, IWC Schaffhausen has been playing around with colours and ceramics under the name of Colours of TOP GUN. Inspired by various elements of the famous US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program, better known as TOP GUN, the sub-collection exclusively uses ceramic for its cases. Until now, that is, as […]

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref 7128/1G Jul 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 7128/1G

The polarising Cubitus collection is not yet a year old, but Patek Philippe’s newest line of elegant sports watches has expanded in a big way with the Cubitus ref. 7128/1G-001 in a new ‘medium’ 40 mm size that transforms the wearing experience for the better. With summer now in full swing, it’s worth looking at this new Cubitus and considering what it means for the future of the collection. Featuring a silky 18k white gold case and bracelet, the smaller Cubitus practically drapes itself on the wrist, and is probably the most compelling launch yet from the new collection. Also available in rose gold (ref. 7128/1R-001), the new “medium” Cubitus is a luxury sports watch in the true sense of the term, combining everyday comfort and wearability with premium materials and high-quality finishing inside and out. For better or worse, the Cubitus retains several signature elements of the Nautilus such as the embossed sunburst blue dial and lozenge-shaped hands. Initial thoughts When the Cubitus launched last year, it was decried by many spectators as an unworthy successor to the sought-after Nautilus. I freely admit I never had a strong affinity for the Nautilus, which might explain my open mind toward the Cubitus, but I really like the faceted eight-sided crystal and find the overall design about as compelling as that of its esteemed predecessor. That said, I do wish the Cubitus had more of a distinct identity of its own. In the case of the current ref. 7128/1G-001 in 1...

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Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort Fratello
Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort Jul 19, 2025

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort

Open-worked high-end watches aren’t uncommon. In fact, at a certain level of exclusivity, they’re rather typical. Yet, when I opened my messages the other day, a head-turning piece was staring back at me. The new Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort is a unique-looking object because of its simplicity and finishing. Yes, I shot a […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Maillechort to read the full article.

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