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Quill & Pad
Yamazaki 12-Year-Old from Japan is a whisky that Ken Gargett has loved every time he has had the chance to try it. The bottle he sampled for this piece was actually one from the back of his cupboard, which he has been sitting on for far too long. When a mate saw it, he implored him not to open it. But Ken of course did and shares the experience with us here.
Time+Tide
The Vulcain Cricket Nautical is back in time to celebrate its 62nd birthday.The post The Vulcain Cricket Nautical celebrates its 62nd birthday with a sapphire upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Beaubleu is a French brand that we’ve covered a handful of times since their debut in 2017, and we certainly have a soft spot for their quirky and contemporary design language. The basic idea is rather simple, at least on paper: instead of traditional hands, Beaubleu uses circular rings of different sizes to tell the time. As they move around the dial, it creates a very different impression than what you’d see on a normal watch, and causes some reflection as to why traditional handsets, with their inherent precision, are so commonplace to begin with. Like Alain Silberstein’s designs, Beaubleu’s watches remind us that a watch can be anything, and that shape is a critical element in how we relate to watches both practically and emotionally. Beaubleu, to this point, has also done a fantastic job of using color to drive these ideas home. With their new Ecce line of watches, the brand’s first permanent collection, Beaubleu has further refined their aesthetic, adding a bracelet for the first time, and making subtle changes to their dials and cases that allow everything to work together a bit more harmoniously. The core of the design, of course, is unchanged. We still get the unique circular hands in the three models that launch the Ecce collection, with a large running seconds circle, a small hours circle, and a medium sized minutes circle in between. The 39mm cases have sculpted flanks and prominent, brushed circular bezel that complements the hands as well the circ...
Worn & Wound
Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for. The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...
Hodinkee
Familiar faces, jaw-dropping watches, and a guest you won't believe – all on the big screen.
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SJX Watches
The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away. Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look. I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, to considerable fanfare on their part, Longines launched the Flyback Chronograph within their Spirit Collection. The Spirit Collection has been critical for Longines over these past few years. It’s a spot in the catalog where the brand is really trying to carve out a niche for themselves in the contemporary watch landscape. After years of being better than possibly any other brand at raiding the archives for heritage based reissues, the Spirit Collection seems like a conscious choice to branch out into something different – to prove that Longines has a foot in the modern watch world, and isn’t just playing the hits. For me, the Spirit Collection really gelled with the introduction of its first titanium watch. This no date execution of the Spirit in a super lightweight metal really felt like the brand finding a groove with a new product line, and they’ve now somewhat predictably added a titanium version of the Flyback Chronograph to the collection, adding some symmetry to the catalog and perhaps a more wearable version of an impressive, but large, chrono. The broad strokes of the Flyback are virtually identical to the steel version issued earlier this year. We get a 42mm case that’s 17mm (yes, 17mm) thick, with a rotating 60 minute timing bezel with a ceramic insert, mounted to a matching titanium bracelet or a textile strap. The dial is anthracite, complementing the tone of the grade 5 titanium rather well, with subdials at 3:00 and 9:00 for mi...
Worn & Wound
Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. Coming off the first 90’s-inspired collaboration with Zodiac Watches is a new player in the lineup. The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag edition is chock full of 90’s nostalgia goodness. Inspired by the sights and sensations of gearing up and hitting the laser tag area, this watch features a ton of unique design cues that neither Worn & Wound nor Zodiac have done before. While our presentation of the watch is pure laser tag-induced fun, it’s a surprisingly versatile timepiece that’s sure to bring some color into your collection. Let’s take a closer look. The post The Zodiac x Worn & Wound Super Sea Wolf Laser Tag Is A Future Classic appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Baltic introduce a brand new field model in the Hermétique Tourer, with some impressive specifications to boot The post The Baltic Hermétique Tourer is a field watch with mid-century looks and modern specs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The classic field watch has served as a blank canvas of sorts over the years for all kinds of brands in the microbrand space. It’s a sneakily challenging format to iterate on. Like the dive watch, it’s one of those platforms that was, arguably, perfected right out of the gate. And, like the dive watch, those new iterations tend to work best when a brand doesn’t try to reinvent something that isn’t broken, but simply puts their own unique stamp on a traditional design. That’s what Baltic seems to be going for with their new collection, introduced today, which they’ve dubbed the Hermétique. These first four “Tourer Edition” variants take classic field watch tropes but spin them through Baltic’s own sensibility, which itself has become only more clearly refined in recent years as the brand has continued to mature. What I’ve always liked about field watches is that they are relentlessly unfussy. They are the objectification of the idea of “neutral” in watch design. Simple to wear, simple to read, unobtrusive, but always good looking in their purest form, a simple arrangement of Arabic numerals against a high contrast dial. Baltic has taken the approach with the Hermétique leaning into those things that make field watches field watches, but have added tasteful accents that tweak the formula just a hair. First and foremost, these watches seem to be designed to disappear. The stainless steel cases come in at a very traditional 37mm diamater, and Baltic...
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Time+Tide
The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon embraces symmetrical and whimsical design. The Purity Tourbillon movement boasts a huge 17mm tourbillon cage that beats at 4Hz. Close inspection of the openwork movement reveals a lot of hand-finished detail. Although it remains quite a niche genre for the wealthy elite, the list of sapphire-cased watches is quickly growing. … ContinuedThe post The ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon is a great example of artisanal sapphire watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We caught up with Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni for a tête-à-tête, and bring you insights on how he revived the brand.
Revolution
Join Wei and Alain Schiesser, Co-founder of Le Cercle des Horlogers SA, as they delve into the extraordinary Jacob & Co Opera Godfather Minute Repeater. This exceptional timepiece is a part of the Opera Collection, where the realms of high watchmaking seamlessly blend with the enchanting world of music. The 49mm Opera timepiece stands as […]
SJX Watches
The recently facelifted Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has received yet another tweak with a scaled-down case that’s now measuring 38 mm. Available in pink gold with either an ivory or purple stamped guilloche dial, the case retains the now familiar Code 11.59 but set apart by its noticeably more compact size. Initial thoughts Since its introduction, the Code 11.59 has faced its fair share of criticism, sometimes unfairly. Nonetheless, Audemars Piguet (AP) continued refine to the design, resulting in more successful releases, notably the Code 11.59 Starwheel. However, all of the models to date were relatively large at 41 mm, with the case design accentuating the size. So the more compact 38 mm case is a good thing, since it will enhance wearability. And given the perceived size of the 41 mm model, the 38 mm version will likely feel look more substantial than it is. At the same time, the size is a more gender-neutral option for potential buyers. Between the two new models, I prefer the purple dial, which marks a pleasing departure from the prevalence of blue and green dials in today’s watch market and also the Code 11.59 collection. But I would have preferred is the removal of the date at three, which does not contribute to the design. The new model remains unmistakable as a Code 11.59, retaining the distinctive sandwich case construction with an octagonal middle. So if you liked the look but wanted a smaller size, this is a more enticing proposition than its predecesso...
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin offers their entry-level Academic in a new Rouge configuration. The distinct red of the dial is achieved through 14 layers of Pantone 188C-coloured lacquer. Grade 5 titanium cases in two sizes, 38mm and 42mm, and neither is a limited edition. Dressier timepieces have been overshadowed in an era where sports watches reign supreme, an … ContinuedThe post The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
GMT’s are a longtime favorite complication among the Windup Watch Shop crew. And Bulova does not disappoint with the new Oceangrapher GMT, avialable in three different variations. The New Bulova Oceanographer GMT is awesome because it effortlessly combines timeless style with modern functionality. Its retro-inspired design is eye-catching, with a bold and distinctive aesthetic that stands out. Beyond its looks, the GMT complication adds a practical edge, allowing wearers to easily keep track of different time zones, making it an ideal companion for travelers or anyone that wants to keep up with two timezones. Watch the video below to take a closer look at all three models and find out more details right here in the Windup Watch Shop! GMT’s are a longtime favorite complication among the Windup Watch Shop crew. And Bulova does not disappoint with the new Oceangrapher GMT, avialable in three different variations. The New Bulova Oceanographer GMT is awesome because it effortlessly combines timeless style with modern functionality. Its retro-inspired design is eye-catching, with a bold and distinctive aesthetic that stands out. Beyond its looks, the GMT complication adds a practical edge, allowing wearers to easily keep track of different time zones, making it an ideal companion for travelers or anyone that wants to keep up with two timezones. Watch the video below to take a closer look at all three models and find out more details right here in the Windup Watch...
Worn & Wound
If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...
Deployant
We take the Furlan Marri "Bronzo Rosso" Watches of Switzerland collaboration for a spin, and give you our thoughts after a week on the wrist.
Hodinkee
Longines brings titanium to the Spirit collection introduced earlier this year.
Time+Tide
Longines present a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback chronograph with a grade 5 titanium case and red dial accents.The post The new Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium addresses a point of contention within the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release. All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...
Hodinkee
The most modern Santos-Dumont yet, complete with a tiny plane ready for take off.
In a world of speed and daring, where the limits of what’s possible are being pushed… there are those who dare to dream, and there are those who dare to ride. In 1947, legendary pilot Chuck Yeager climbed into the cockpit of the Bell X-1, a rocket-powered aircraft designed to break a barrier thought by many to be impossible-the speed of sound itself. And what is speed… but distance, over time. Fortunately, he had vision… a goal, and the courage to chase it. The post Breaking Barriers with the AVI-8 Bell X-1 Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Marketing material for the modern mechanical watch almost always includes a description of the movement’s frequency. You may have even sensed that the higher the frequency, the more accurate a movement gets. But is this entirely true? Find out here.
SJX Watches
Having already launched the Luminor Chrono Carbotech as the PAM01419 Navy Seals limited edition, Panerai is now adding it to the regular production line-up as the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219. Featuring the same carbon composite case and ETA-based P.9200 movement, the PAM01219 has a restrained, functional dial with blue accents. Initial thoughts The PAM01219 is a new version of the ETA-powered Panerai chronograph, so while it’s nothing novel technically, it is appealing for the no-frills design and lightweight carbon composite case. Prior versions of this chronograph were either less interesting, like the base model PAM01109 in steel, or over designed, like the PAM01419 Navy Seals edition with its sniper crosshair sub-dials. Stylistically, the PAM01219 is clear, clean, and free of superfluous elements. However, the PAM01219 is too expensive. It’s priced at about US$17,000, which is pricey any way you slice it, especially since most watches with the same movement from rival brands cost less (and much less in the case of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono). At the same time, Panerai’s own catalogue includes the PAM00335 that has a ceramic case and in-house movement boasting an eight-day movement and mono-pusher chronograph, which makes it comparatively better value at just over US$20,000. Large, lightweight, and ETA The PAM01219 is classic Panerai in style with a clean dial that is a key part of its appeal. The dial is also symmetrical with a 30-minute chronograph count...
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