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Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic Fratello
Oct 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic

It’s been a while since we covered an Undone watch. The Hong Kong-based brand is widely known among watch enthusiasts for its affordable timepieces. Undone’s latest creation is the Urban Automatic, a triple-calendar watch that’s the first mechanical model in the vintage-inspired Urban series. I have always liked the Urban line because it takes inspiration […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Undone Urban Automatic to read the full article.

Owner's Review: The Serica 5303-3 COSC Diving Chronometer Is Parisian Teddy Baldassarre
Serica Oct 4, 2024

Owner's Review: The Serica 5303-3 COSC Diving Chronometer Is Parisian

Picture the scene: a hectic work week ends with a quick bite at your favorite Italian trattoria, then you hustle a few blocks afterwards to a dimly lit West Village jazz club to catch a blazing first set from the house band. Glancing down at your wrist, you see you have just enough time to cab it to the airport for the redeye to Paris for a well-deserved long weekend, beachfront on the Côte d'Azur. But the watch on your wrist isn’t a vintage Rolex GMT-Master or Omega Seamaster 300, although either would be a fine choice to segue from the office to the French Riviera without missing a beat. No, your timepiece is from Serica, a microbrand based in France with enough Continental cool and midcentury charm to appear as if it just popped out of a time capsule from 1962. If ever a modern sports watch evoked the Mad Men era, this is it. Even though it’s only been in existence since 2019, Serica doesn't feel like a typical microbrand. In fact, it has the aura of an established horological icon, one with its own storied history and visual language. And if it’s not readily apparent, I’m positively obsessed with the entire Serica aesthetic.  Serica's French-designed, Swiss-made creations blend the refinement of classic Parisian fashion with the urbane cool of a European matinee idol. The company’s debut release was the W.W.W field watch, followed by the 5303 diver that made its bow in 2021, in both black and white-dialed variants. A new colorway was offered the followin...

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz Hamilton’s Oct 4, 2024

Quick Look at the Hamilton Khaki Field Quartz

Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial colors, the Khaki Field Quartz may just be one of the best buys in the Khaki collection.   As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Hamilton’s Khaki line of field watches traces its lineage through the brand’s rich history of producing watches for the American and British militaries. Originally launched in the 1980s, the Khaki line has expanded to a dizzying array of references - all with a unique twist on Hamilton’s heritage.   The new Khaki Field Quartz utilizes a similar dial layout to a watch Hamilton produced for government and non-military personnel of the British armed forces in the ‘60s and ‘70s. Reinterpreted with a quartz movement in both 33mm and 38mm cases and that iconic “Khaki” text on the three dial ...

Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility Fratello
Marathon Oct 4, 2024

Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility

Marathon Watch Company is well known for supplying several armed forces with tool watches since 1939. One of the most sought-after models is the SAR-D from the early 2000s. The Canadian brand now brings back an evolved version with the Marathon OSAR-D. The first thing to stand out? Those massive hour markers! Consider them a […] Visit Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility to read the full article.

Could Current-Day Panerai’s Biggest Competition Come From Its Recent Past? Fratello
Panerai s Biggest Competition Come Oct 4, 2024

Could Current-Day Panerai’s Biggest Competition Come From Its Recent Past?

There are watch brands out there that, for some reason, we never really get around to appreciating. Perhaps it is because we don’t see them in the wild much, or it could be that their designs don’t jump out at us. For me, Panerai is one of those brands. This is a shame (for me, […] Visit Could Current-Day Panerai’s Biggest Competition Come From Its Recent Past? to read the full article.

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space

Any day that a new Speedmaster is introduced made out of a material other than Bioceramic is a good day. That’s one of the indisputable laws of watch media, and we’re seeing it play out right before our eyes with the release of the new First Omega in Space Speedmaster. This is, of course, the second First Omega in Space, following the discontinued first First Omega in Space, a tribute to the…first Omega in space, which happened to be a reference CK2998 Speedy on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. That original FOiS release was a fan favorite Speedmaster for the entirety of its production run, which ended about four years ago.  The Speedmaster has developed a reputation with watch collectors as a classic that hasn’t changed a whole lot over the course of several decades of small iterations. While that’s certainly true when you look at the slow progression of the Speedy over the course of many years, the power of the FOiS was always in how it showed the clear contrasts between very early Speedmasters and the most modern examples in the catalog. Because of course there are changes from the Speedys of the 60s compared to those of today, and they really come through when you can view them side by side. The FOiS, as a vintage reissue, really made the most of this, offering a very clear alternative to collectors who might have a preference for vintage aesthetics but not want to actually own a vintage example of the watch.  The new First Omega in Space is very much ...

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36 Worn & Wound
Maen Oct 3, 2024

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36

When we last checked in with Maen, they had just released their latest collaboration with visual artist seconde/seconde, a take on their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch that was both playful in its aesthetic and sober in its theme. That watch, and other watches in the Manhattan collection, represent one side of the Maen coin, which is that of a brand willing to experiment and play around with expectations, whether that’s in a collaborative partner like seconde/seconde, or making a watch that’s almost impossibly thin at a surprisingly affordable price point. Maen’s latest, though, represents a different side of the brand, one that is quite a bit more traditional and borders on classical, at least in a watchmaking context. The new Lunar Classic 36 brings a classic complication, the moonphase, back into the Maen lineup after a long absence.  Maen’s very first watch, released in 2017, had a moonphase complication. That quartz watch is very different in execution than any watch in the current Maen lineup, which is kind of the point of the Lunar Classic 36. It exists, in part, as a demonstration of how far the brand has come. Anyone who has handled a Maen knows that these watches punch well above their weight class in terms of fit and finish, and recent releases really demonstrate that the progress they’ve made getting the best manufacturing results possible, while honing in on a clearer than ever design language.  Like other recent Maen releases, ...

It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1 Fratello
TAG Heuer through Formula 1 but Oct 3, 2024

It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1

It’s been a rumor for quite a while, so the fact that Rolex is out and LVMH is in as of next year didn’t come as a surprise. Maybe the length of the firm 10-year contract is. In addition, LVMH won’t promote just the historically correct watch brand TAG Heuer through Formula 1 but also […] Visit It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS First Omega Oct 3, 2024

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space)

Almost four years ago, we announced that Omega was discontinuing the Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) model. The watch debuted in 2012 to commemorate the first Omega chronograph worn in space on the wrist of NASA astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra during his Sigma 7 mission. The Speedmaster on Schirra’s wrist was a second-generation (CK2998) […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) to read the full article.

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared Fratello
Ressence Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared

Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few […] Visit Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared to read the full article.

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Oct 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47 SJX Watches
Hautlence Retrovision ’47 Best known Oct 3, 2024

Hands On: Hautlence Retrovision ’47

Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen Worn & Wound
Zenith Launches their Third Limited Oct 2, 2024

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen

Zenith, for the third year in a row, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen, the world’s leading nonprofit breast cancer organization, on a limited edition watch meant to highlight the work Susan G. Komen is doing and raise money for the organization. Last year saw Zenith release a Chronomaster Sport with a light pink dial, and this year’s follow up brings the same aesthetic to the Defy Skyline.  Zenith’s efforts with Susan G. Komen are part of their larger HORIZ-ON initiative, which is a company-wide commitment to “corporate social responsibility.” These initiatives run the gamut and occur all over the world, touching local communities and broader swaths of the population. The ongoing partnership with Susan G. Komen represents “One of the key pillars of ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative,” according to Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck. The new Defy Skyline Pink is a limited edition of 100 pieces and uses the new 41mm Skyline case (in steel) as the canvas. The Defy, in my opinion, continues to be one of the most underrated sports watch lines in production at the moment. The collection has a long and fascinating heritage, with some truly innovative and provocative design in its past, and it still represents the most forward thinking arm of the Zenith brand today. The Skyline, in its relatively short history, has already proven itself to be a worthy modern successor to the great Defy references of the past.  For this pink dialed limited edition, we get all the hallmark...

Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up Fratello
Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up Oct 2, 2024

Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up

Every once in a while, you see a watch that raises more questions than it can answer. The Nomos Tangente 2date is such a watch. The biggest question is, “Why?” Since an answer isn’t immediately at hand, more and more questions arise. Is this a watch that can keep track of two different dates? Is […] Visit Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up to read the full article.

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Oct 2, 2024

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design Oct 1, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso

There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Oct 1, 2024

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional

On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01

The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium.  All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...