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Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

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Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 29, 2024

Why I Bought It: Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain

There are nice-looking watches, there are crisp-looking watches, and then there are watches that emanate an otherworldly glow. For GaryG the Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain falls into the third category, so much so that it became a running joke for a friend to pantomime a “smelling salts” motion as a signal for Gary to pull up his sleeve and jolt him back to attention. Here he explains why he bought this new classic watch.

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Fratello Top 5: The Rarest Steel Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced Fratello
Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced Sep 27, 2024

Fratello Top 5: The Rarest Steel Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced

Another Friday, another list! This week, we leave our lists of watches with famous movements behind and focus on the Rolex Submariner. As some of you will know, Rolex, Wallpaper*, and Nicholas Foulkes collaborated on Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch that Unlocked the Deep. The book came out last week, and it brilliantly covers the […] Visit Fratello Top 5: The Rarest Steel Rolex Submariner References Ever Produced to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Seconde/Seconde/ C65 Desk Diver Fratello
Christopher Ward × Seconde/Seconde/ C65 Desk Sep 27, 2024

Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Seconde/Seconde/ C65 Desk Diver

Christopher Ward teamed up with seconde/seconde/, resulting in a rather quirky version of the C65 Aquitaine. Let me introduce you to the C65 Desk Diver limited edition. Unlike most of seconde/seconde/’s subtle jabs at the watch world, this is a full-on tongue-in-cheek redesign of the C65 diver. Christopher Ward will produce 500 of these C65 […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward × Seconde/Seconde/ C65 Desk Diver to read the full article.

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Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!) Quill & Pad
De Bethune MB&F; Stepan Sarpaneva Bamford Sep 27, 2024

Light Me Up: The Insanely Colorful Lume of Black Badger James Thompson’s Watches (Lume Fest!)

Working with creative makers like De Bethune, MB&F;, Stepan Sarpaneva, Bamford, Linde Werdelin and more, Gothenburg-based James Thompson – aka Black Badger – has become industry famous as the driving force of a new school of applications of luminous materials. Anders Modig takes us through Black Badger's history, along the way highlighting many of his colorful watch collaborations.

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First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection Monochrome
Certina Adds Sep 27, 2024

First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection

Last year, Certina ventured into the popular 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watch category. In this space, fellow Swatch Group brand Tissot has made waves with its highly successful and accessible PRX series. While the 2023 Certina DS-7 Powermatic 80 models offer a simple time-and-date functionality, they bring a more contemporary, slimmer, and less angular design, setting […]

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Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph Fratello
Louis Moinet Sep 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph

Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.

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Horology and Hollywood: The No Country for Old Men Timex Camper Wristwatch Worn & Wound
Rolex GMT Master 1675 watches Sep 26, 2024

Horology and Hollywood: The No Country for Old Men Timex Camper Wristwatch

There seems to be a clear correlation between watch enthusiasts and cinephiles. From Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Seiko H558-5009 (mentioned in one of my previous articles) to Marlon Brando’s bezel-less Rolex GMT Master 1675, watches and their film counterparts have been the focus of discussion in the watch collector space for years. While an Arnie will cost you around $500 and 1675s over $10k, pieces of film history can be obtained by hobbyists of all tax brackets. However, even the several hundred-dollar price for a girthy Seiko diver may still be out of the price range for many collectors who find the allure of Hollywood memorabilia sitting in their watch case to be intriguing.  Enter the Timex Camper. In the opening sequence of Ethan and Joel Coen’s 2007 masterpiece film No Country for Old Men, protagonist Llewelyn Moss (played by Josh Brolin) tracks game animals across the West Texas plains. He bends down on one knee, takes his watch out, and holds it to the sun––attempting to use the shadows of the handset on the dial to track his direction. The audience fortunately gets a few frames of the watch on screen. What’s shown is a Timex Camper, dark green, with a matching fabric strap. It’s rather small in the shot, but us collectors will take whatever wristwatch screen time we can get. The Camper’s aesthetics obviously differentiate it from the aforementioned Arnie and 1675, but its most important trait for us is its price. For well under $100––commonly li...

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Hands-On: The New RZE Fortitude GMT-S With Vivid Blue And Gray Sunburst Dials Fratello
Sep 26, 2024

Hands-On: The New RZE Fortitude GMT-S With Vivid Blue And Gray Sunburst Dials

By now, you probably know we’re fans of RZE here at Fratello. The brand’s titanium watches are affordable, and they all have a strong explorer attitude. The RZE Fortitude GMT is a proper pilot’s watch that allows you to track an additional time zone. Today, the new RZE Fortitude GMT-S debuts, with the capital “S” […] Visit Hands-On: The New RZE Fortitude GMT-S With Vivid Blue And Gray Sunburst Dials to read the full article.

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The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm SJX Watches
Raymond Weil Sep 26, 2024

The Raymond Weil Millesime is Now 35 mm

Essentially smaller versions of the preceding models, the Millesime Central Seconds and Millesime Moon Phase in 35 mm are the latest additions to Raymond Weil’s successful line of vintage-inspired watches. Debuting with five different variants, the new Millesime models retain the aesthetic that made the earlier versions popular: a contemporary interpretation of “sector” dial watches of the early 20th century. Initial thoughts Regarded as a “mall watch” brand for years – but nonetheless a profitable business of decent scale – Raymond Weil hadn’t been on the radar of most watch enthusiasts for some time. So when the Millesime won the award for watches under CHF3,000 at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), many of us were surprised. The Millesime, however, is more than a “mall watch”. It has good proportions with a “sector” dial that is well-balanced, and underneath is a no-frills, reliable Sellita movement. It is an affordable watch and has the build quality to match, but that is a fact rather than a criticism. Priced between US$1,650 and US$2,575 depending on the model, the 35 mm Millesime remains good value. It brings the “sector” dial-look to someone who wants a smaller watch. Vintage-inspired aesthetics The new Millesime takes after the original model, which was just under 40 mm. The case is nearly identical in design, a three-part affair with a flat bezel, large, fluted crown, and “glass box” sapphire crystal that ...

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Introducing: The New Venezianico Arsenale Collection Fratello
Venezianico Arsenale Collection Venezianico Sep 26, 2024

Introducing: The New Venezianico Arsenale Collection

Venezianico is a young brand from Venice that continues to roll out new releases. Today, the Arsenale joins the lineup, and while it contains familiar styling details, the watch can claim a historic local building as the source of inspiration. This is a watch that should please those looking for value and refinement. I’ve now […] Visit Introducing: The New Venezianico Arsenale Collection to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens Fratello
Ressence Sep 26, 2024

Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens

Welcome to this latest installment of Fratello Talks. Today, we are happy to be joined by special guest Benoît Mintiens, the founder and CEO of the avant-garde Belgian watch brand Ressence. In this long-form episode, we learn about Benoît’s origins as an industrial design consultant, how he transitioned into the watch world, and the philosophy […] Visit Fratello Talks: Ressence - With Founder And CEO Benoît Mintiens to read the full article.

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Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Zenith Sep 25, 2024

Zenith and Hodinkee Team Up for their Third Limited Edition

Earlier this year, Zenith revealed a revived version of a classic part of their past in the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. The triple calendar, with apertures for day and month alongside the 9:00 and 3:00 subdials, is an old fashioned complication with a ton of charm, and works particularly well in a heritage inspired watch like the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar. When it was launched several months ago, it was clear to everyone that it would eventually produce additional variants, and here, for the first time, it’s the canvas for a limited edition, Zenith’s third with Hodinkee. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Limited Edition for Hodinkee reframes the concept of the watch and the result is quite handsome and a nice extension of their previous collaborations.  The idea behind this limited edition, according to Hodinkee and Zenith, is to bring together elements of the past, present, and future. This, of course, is something all mechanical watches do in their own way, with their centuries old technology, modern manufacturing techniques, and the hope that any watch will provide multiple generations with reliable service. This LE’s approach is both fanciful and literal.  For example, it’s powered by a movement that can only be described as advanced and modern. The Caliber 3610 is a high frequency movement with a chronograph capable of timing events to the 1/10th of a second. But it’s also a bit anachronistic, with a calendar complication...

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Fears Introduces the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with a Module by Christopher Ward Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Back Sep 25, 2024

Fears Introduces the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, with a Module by Christopher Ward

Back in January 2023, Fears and Christopher Ward collaborated on the Alliance 01, the first limited edition watch made specifically for the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers. The watch became an immediate cult sensation, partly due to its unusual jump hour complication, and partly because it was just plain rare, right from the start. The watch was only available to members of the Alliance, a smaller group for sure than the typical audience for either brand. But when a watch like this appears, something with a highly specific complication that also strikes a chord with the community, we know that it’s only a matter of time before a version comes along that’s more widely accessible. Well, that time is now. Today, Fears introduces what they refer to as an evolution of the Alliance 01, the all new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour.  At its core, this is still very much the watch that we saw back in early 2023. It keeps the 40.5mm Brunswick case, a cushion case design that splits the difference nicely between sporty and something more refined. I happen to own a Brunswick, and find that the case is something of a chameleon – on the right strap it feels like a true dress watch, and on a bracelet, worn casually, it has an almost Datejust-like quality, which is to say it’s right in the middle of that dress/sport spectrum.  But the real heart of the watch is Christopher Ward’s module, also carried over from the Alliance 01, that allows for the jumping hour complication. ...

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[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Sep 25, 2024

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz

When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will.  My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character.  The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...

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