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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Aug 15, 2022

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air

Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Strawberry & Cream SJX Watches
Studio Underd0g Aug 15, 2022

Studio Underd0g Introduces the Strawberry & Cream

A watch designer by profession, Richard Benc started Studio Underd0g in early 2020 during the lockdown in London, having previously designed watches for Braun, the German consumer goods maker famed for its shavers and industrial design. His brand got its start with a series of affordable mechanical chronographs defined by a quirky aesthetic, including examples modelled on the colours of watermelon and mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Now Studio Underd0g has taken the covers off its latest two-counter chronograph, Strawberries & Cream. Inspired by the colours of the eponymous desert, the watch was born from chance meeting from Miguel Seabra, a Portuguese journalist specialising in tennis and watches. A fan of Studio Underd0g from its inception, Mr Seabra and the brand’s founder shared a joke last year about the perfect dessert while watching tennis in summer, resulting in this edition. Initial thoughts While salmon is a fad, mechanical watches for men in bright pink are uncommon, which immediately sets Strawberries & Cream apart from its competitors. Admittedly this not the first pink dial from Studio Underd0g – the first was the Watermelon watch in bright green and pink – but this is arguably the more appealing since the colours simple go better together while being more wearable. The price-to-quality ratio of the Strawberries & Cream is good. The watch gets most things right. Both the case and dial are basic but interesting nonetheless, while the movement is a gentl...

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition SJX Watches
Omega Moonwatch But Aug 15, 2022

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition

Based in the capital city of the Netherlands, Fratello Watches is a watch magazine best known for having coined the social media hashtag “Speedy Tuesday” dedicated to the Omega Moonwatch. But its latest announcement comes from the realm of independent watchmaking in the form of the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition. A new take on Louis Moinet’s signature chronograph, the Fratello edition will be available on its website on August 16. The 25-piece limited edition employs orange accents to dress up the open-worked aesthetic of the Memoris Spirit, which has a laterally-coupled, column wheel-equipped chronograph constructed on the dial. Initial thoughts More compact than past Louis Moinet chronographs, the Memoris Spirit 40 is wearable and lightweight, although it remains a notably thick watch due to the height of the movement. The height is justified because the watch is all about the movement, which is obviously interesting. All of the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism are exhibited on the dial, making it one of the few watches to have a traditional chronograph set-up visible on the front. However, the base movement relies on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, which is a good thing from a reliability and functionality perspective, though one would hope for something fancier at this price point. The styling of the watch is simpler than the average Louis Moinet, but still elaborately conceived. The lugs, for instance, are ope...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9F GMTs gift-giving footballers Aug 12, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello

Zach has just departed on a well-deserved holiday and is currently basking on a sun-lounger wearing a Hawaiian shirt loud enough to make your ears ring. So it’s up to me to pick up the Wind Down slack and bring you a few bulletins from the watch world this week. First up, take a minute … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5226G Continuing Aug 11, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G

Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...

The scream team – the top 5 evil looking watches Time+Tide
Aug 6, 2022

The scream team – the top 5 evil looking watches

Between associating themselves with moon landings and war heroes, watch brands are seemingly always striving for a sense of valour and achievement. Although there’s nothing wrong with that, the endless romanticism can get a bit tiring at times, and often the biggest relief is to see something go wildly in the other direction. Put on … ContinuedThe post The scream team – the top 5 evil looking watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier? Time+Tide
Cartier ? Aug 5, 2022

Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier?

The phrase “nothing special” is often thrown around when you’re showing your watch to other enthusiasts. It might be a bashful term born out of shyness, some insecurity that your watch isn’t as expensive as the other person’s, or it could even be sarcasm when the watch on your wrist is worth more than some … ContinuedThe post Why did I fall more in love with this $50 Citizen than my $5,000 Cartier? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100 SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2022

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100

One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...

Six watches guaranteed to simply make you smile Time+Tide
Jul 31, 2022

Six watches guaranteed to simply make you smile

In the ongoing maelstrom of collaborations in the watch world, there is one discernible trend that may or may not concern you. Fun. People are having, and seeking fun, with the synergies between unlikely conspirators. Case in point, Invicta x SpongeBob. While this extremely subtle way of collaborating might be one extreme, it’s a sign … ContinuedThe post Six watches guaranteed to simply make you smile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Cherry, cherry baby. TAG Heuer debuts new Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer debuts new Carrera Red Jul 28, 2022

VIDEO: Cherry, cherry baby. TAG Heuer debuts new Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition

The TAG Heuer Carrera was born in 1963, and since its inception it has become a timeless racing watch icon. Clean, crisp and faceted, any Carrera within a watch collection is likely to become a go-to daily wearer that combines robustness and elegance in equal measures. Last year, the TAG Heuer Carrera Special Edition Teal … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Cherry, cherry baby. TAG Heuer debuts new Carrera Red Dial Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Service Centre Jul 28, 2022

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore

Patek Philippe is one of the most revered watch brands but an outlier amongst its peers in relying almost entirely on independent retailers to sell its watches. Of the hundreds of Patek Philippe points-of-sale around the world, the brand owns just three. But the converse is true for its after-sales service where the brand is almost entirely vertically integrated. Patek Philippe will soon own and operate ten service centres in key cities around the world, backed up with four of its own watchmaking institutes. The Geneva watchmaker does this to fulfil its pledge of being able to repair and maintain “all timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe since production began in 1839”. Consolidation and consistency In pursuit of a uniformly high standard of service across the world, Patek Philippe is in the process of consolidating its service network from a peak of 59 service centres worldwide, some of which were run by independent retailers, to just ten key locations. Amongst the regional centres are one each in Germany, France, and the United States, but most will be located in Asia – the brand’s biggest market – in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and Singapore. All of the ten will be run by Patek Philippe itself, or more specifically, its regional subsidiaries. The Singapore service centre, for instance, is run by Geneva Master Time (GMT), Patek Philippe’s subsidiary for Southeast Asia. GMT also has a smaller service centre in Bangkok, a necessity given that Thailand i...

Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches Time+Tide
Jul 25, 2022

Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches

It is no secret that the watch community and industry is a rather male-dominated space. With people of all genders, however, becoming more and more familiar with the world of watches there is a hunger to hear from new voices and perspectives. Most watch coverage is rooted in the male gaze, reviews and verdicts stemming … ContinuedThe post Tea for two, plus you? Killing Time podcast serves fresh flavours after lots of whiskey and watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Equation of Time Introduces the Fat Arrow Collaboration SJX Watches
Omega Jul 25, 2022

Equation of Time Introduces the Fat Arrow Collaboration

Conceived sub-brand of RGM, one of the original independent watchmaker in America, Equation of Time is a maker of affordable watches often created in collaboration with collectors, with the latest being the Fat Arrow Collaboration Watch. The dial of the watch reproduces a 2015 artwork created by watch photographer Atom Moore that’s a riff on the pilot’s wristwatches supplied to the Royal Air Force in the 1950s by brands like Omega and IWC. Like the military-issue originals, the Fat Arrow Collaboration is a compact, hand-wind timepiece with the feel of a vintage remake, but st apart with a dial that’s clearly modern and definitely original. Initial thoughts The Fat Arrow Collaboration (FAC) is one of many watches inspired by vintage military timepieces, but it is cleverly different. It utilises the historical arrow emblem used to mark British military equipment as a decorative element. Mr Moore’s original artwork, Fat Arrow, is an artistically-altered photography of a CK 2777 “Fat Arrow” wristwatch, one of many that Omega supplied to the Royal Air Force starting in 1952. The FAC retains the feel of the vintage original with an identically-sized case, but with Mr Moore’s Fat Arrow mashup as the dial. That makes the FAC different enough, in fact, to be interesting despite being a no-frills watch. Fat Arrow by Atom Moore The dial is covered with both the “Fat Arrow” and “Thin Arrow” in all their respective iterations. That might sound excessive, but ...

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin 222 Jul 23, 2022

VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback

For whatever reason, vintage reissues have become the undisputed rulers of watch releases. It almost doesn’t matter who the brand is or what they’re re-releasing, but if there’s history then there’s hype. But, when the brand is as lofty as Vacheron Constantin and the watch is as iconic as the reference 222, watch lovers are … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why it took so long for the Vacheron Constantin 222 to make its comeback appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Jul 22, 2022

Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date Hands-on Review

Pros: The blue glacier pattern dial Interchangeable strap – takes seconds to change between a steel bracelet and a rubber strap Bang for buck Divers watch with all the right features  Cons: 41 hours of power reserve is too short in today’s standardBetween the bracelet and the rubber strap, the rubber strap wears much nicer on the wrist Some may not appreciate the details on the dial Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Every watch manufacturer has a timepiece that’s iconic to the brand. The Royal Oaks, Submariners, Daytonas, El Primeros, Navitimers, and Speedmasters are all watches that are well known for their respective brands. Can the new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date be one of those watches for Montblanc?  This new 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date certainly has an element of uniqueness to it. What makes this watch stand out is the new “frozen” dial. When the designers at Montblanc wanted to create a new divers watch, they went for the extreme. While most other watch manufacturers would go to the world’s tropical waters for their diver’s watch inspiration, Montblanc went straight to the glacial lakes of the Mont-Blanc Massif.  The designers ascended the Chamonix Valley to the Mer de Glace (Sea of Ice), where they were fascinated by the texture of the glacial ice. The interlocking network of crystals that have been frozen in time for millennia inspired the design of this new 1858 timepiece....

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Introduces Jul 19, 2022

Roger Dubuis Introduces the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier

Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Launched Jul 17, 2022

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Launched in 2020 as a more wearable version of IWC’s signature large-format dress watch, the Portugieser Automatic 40 is a no-frills three-hander executed in a solid, workmanlike manner that is typical of the brand. Though novel for the current Portugieser line – it’s the smallest model in the lineup – the new automatic isn’t a wholly new idea. IWC did offer a “small” Portugieser some two decades ago, but Portugieser watches since then have been well over 40 mm in diameter. The large size of the various Portugieser models result from the movements, which either have a seven-day power reserve or chronograph, plus a few others that are even more complicated. That left a gap for a “small”, uncomplicated Portugieser. And so it has returned, combining the typical restrained aesthetics of the Portugieser line and the technical quality expected of IWC. Initial thoughts The Portugieser Automatic 40 is a wearable watch with a distinctive but classical aesthetic. Unlike its larger and more complicated counterparts in the Portugieser line, the 40 mm automatic is simple but still has the same recognisable aesthetic as well as a solidly engineered movement. It’s moderately sized, though a little thick due to the movement inside. The movement is a good one, which makes the case height acceptable, though a slimmer case would certainly be more appealing and also echo the vintage original more closely. The cal. 82200 Importantly, it is also eminently affordable. Con...

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider Time+Tide
Mühle Glashütte Jul 16, 2022

Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider

What do you get when you put years of precise instrument manufacturing expertise into watchmaking? Well, Mühle-Glashütte is what you get. Though they produced their first watch as late as 1996, they pride themselves on their precision manufacturing heritage, as producers of measuring tools and speedometers. Founded by Robert Mühle during his employment for fine … ContinuedThe post Something for everyone – the Mühle-Glashütte watches you should consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 14, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the 1815 Rattrapante in Platinum

Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...

Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore while Jul 12, 2022

Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt

Last week we spotted the Liver King wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore while celebrating Independence Day in Las Vegas. For those of you unfamiliar with the TikTok star and supplement magnate, the Liver King (aka Brian Johnson) has gained notoriety for his stomach-churning proclivity of eating about a pound of raw liver each day.  Now, … ContinuedThe post Liver King upgraded to a Royal Oak Offshore for his July 4th Las Vegas jaunt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.