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Skeletons & Tourbillons Complications: October 29 Live Auction

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Wristmons Calavera

Konstantin Chaykin returns with another variation of his signature Wristmon “rolling eye” wristwatch, this time inspired by El Día de Muertos. Translating as “Day of the Dead”, the Mexican festival celebrates the departed and has served as inspiration for watchmakers as diverse as Chopard and Swatch. Modelled on the sugar skull candy known as calavera made for the festival, the latest from the Russian watchmaker is the Calavera. Like the other Wristmons, it has an exuberant face with the typical features of a Wristmon – time is indicated by the eyes while the mouth is a moon phase display. Initial thoughts Konstantin Chaykin has created many Wristmon variants – the most recent was inspired by the titular yellow characters of Minions – which makes it seem like a great many have been produced. But in reality each edition is a small run of 20 or less watches, which means the aggregate number of watches is modest. Still, the appeal of the various Wristmon editions vary; because of their similar complications, the models tend to converge on each other. The Calavera, however, stands out. With its bright colours and curlicues, the striking face easily evokes the Mexican festival, while being distinct from other Wristmons. Familiar dimensions As is typical for a Wristmon, the dial is fairly complex. Here it’s comprised of 12 components, with the base featuring a stamped radial-wave guilloche and finished in a bright silver meant to resemble powdered sugar of ...

Introducing the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC

Introducing: Watch Out, 'Rainbow' Daytona - Patek Philippe Drops A Gem-Set Aquanaut

It's the first self-winding Patek Philippe ladies' chrono ever made – but at 39mm, we think it's equally suited for the boys.

Hamilton Khaki Limited Edition Collection For Hodinkee

Hamilton Khaki Limited Edition Collection For Hodinkee

Introducing the Patek Philippe 5935A-001 World Time Flyback Chronograph

Introducing: Bell & Ross Expands Its GMT Lineup With A Crispy White Dial

The BR 05 GMT goes polar.

Interview: The Founders Of Bell & Ross Couldn't Find The Perfect Tool Watch. So They Decided To Create Their Own

All Carlos Rosillo and Bruno Belamich needed was a little help from Sinn and Chanel.

Ahead of the carve: The tasty stylings of the Studio Underd0g Pumpkin

I remember, quite clearly, the first time I heard about Studio Underd0g. It was during a session on Clubhouse where owner Richard Benc was talking about what he wanted to accomplish with his brand by making playful watches that never took themselves too seriously. Watches that reminded us of how fun this hobby can be. … ContinuedThe post Ahead of the carve: The tasty stylings of the Studio Underd0g Pumpkin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap

Chopard has long produced complicated and/or highly decorated pieces in their L.U.C collection as well as sport-oriented watches like the Mille Miglia, but a space was open for a model to bridge the gap between the two. This is where the Chopard Alpine Eagle steps in. Following in the footsteps of the 1980s St. Moritz, … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kudoke Skeleton Plays a Starring Role in Last Looks

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution

The concept of evolution over revolution is more than a catchy phrase, it also shows the dedication that a company has to perfecting a concept. Between the Manhattan, the Skymaster and the Hudson, Maen are a brand of structure and refinement. No detail goes unconsidered, and the result is something both charming and holistic. The … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Hudson 38 GMT shows the value of gradual evolution appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore

To mark the reopening of its boutique within the same complex, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just inaugurated The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition taking place in the ArtScience Museum of Marina Bay Sands from now to November 2, 2022. Open to the public with free admission, the exhibition is an all-encompassing showcase of the brand’s watchmaking split into three sections, starting with its historical timepieces and culminating in its modern-day grand complications like the Tour de l’lle. The first section, Our Heritage: A Legacy as Precious as Time, presents a selection of the brand’s notable timepieces from its earliest years – the oldest watch on show is exactly 200 years old – continuing into the present day with the landmark Tour de l’lle launched in 2005 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, an impressive double-faced watch with 16 complications. A pocket watch dating from 1822 with an engraved case set with amethysts The Tour de l’lle Following that comes The Anatomy of Beauty dedicated to the brand’s traditional and artisanal decorative techniques. Amongst the highlights is the Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations”, a quartet of watches unveiled just earlier this year at the Louvre. Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations” Finally Science and Complications explores the five most important complications for VC, namely the tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, retrograde display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. The key exh...

In-Depth II: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

Having delved into the origins, concept, and design of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003, we now turn to the granularity of its technical qualities. The Kodo is first and foremost a chronometer in the vein of the watches that lay behind the founding of Grand Seiko (GS). A brand focused on precision timekeeping since its establishment in 1960, the opening act of GS in its first decade was competing in observatory chronometer trials at Neuchatel and Geneva – and winning, much to the horror of the Swiss. Several decades later the brand is still pursuing perfect accuracy in both mechanical, quartz, and hybrid formats, most notably with the novel Spring Drive. The Kodo powered by the cal. 9ST1 is the latest, and arguably greatest, endeavour in chronometric precision from GS. But it is like no GS that has come before it. Rather than rely on modern technology and materials, the Kodo instead revisits traditional mechanical solutions, namely as the constant-force mechanism and tourbillon. Combining the two in a wristwatch mark a milestone for GS, or any Japanese watchmaker for that matter. To understand the mechanical systems within the Kodo, we must first understand the fundamental challenges in precision timekeeping. The factors that influence precision fall into two categories, the first related to the barrel or energy supply, and the second, gravity’s effect on the balance or oscillator. Energy challenges The barrel is the source of energy in a conve...

Our six best picks for a watch featuring the perpetual calendar

We turn our attention this Throwback Sunday and focus on watches with the perpetual calendar. Here are our six best picks.

Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why…

“Saddam’s chandelier was the size of a two-car garage,” wrote the late P.J. O’Rourke in a piece on Saddam Hussein’s taste in interior design. “If a reason to invade Iraq was wanted – felony decorating would have done.” It’s this sort of dictator chic that springs to mind when confronted by the maniacal excess of … ContinuedThe post Modified with the dial of a Rolex Daytona, this iPhone is the ideal gift for a lunatic despot. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe’s Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual is Now Left Handed

The combination of split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar has been a mainstay in Patek Philippe’s catalogue ever since the ref. 5004, but the brand’s latest take on the concept is unorthodox. The Split-Seconds Monopusher Chronograph Perpetual Calendar ref. 5373P-001 is described by Patek Philippe as designed for “left handers” and has its crown and pushers on the left side of the case. Essentially an inverted version of the ref. 5372P that’s now discontinued, the ref. 5373P is the first “destro” timepiece among the brand’s regular production offerings, but the movement is classic Patek Philippe. Like the earlier versions of the model, the ref. 5373P is powered by the CHR 27-525 PS Q, a gorgeous, refined, and extremely slim movement that’s amongst the thinnest split-seconds chronographs ever made. Initial thoughts The ref. 5373P is paradoxical. It’s not majorly different from its predecessor, in fact it’s just a rotated case and new dial, but the watch looks and feels entirely different from the ref. 5372P. The left-handed case sets it apart, as does the high-contrast livery. The black-and-red colour scheme seems mismatched to the elegant form of the watch – the case and movement are both impressively slim – but I can imagine this will have a strong appeal for someone seeking something different yet fundamentally classic Patek Philippe high horology. This clearly stands out in the catalogue, offering an alternative that is recognisably di...

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Record Heritage reaffirms the brand’s strength in modern meets vintage

The vintage reissue or heritage trend has been in full force for years now. But one of the first brands to really zero in on recreating vintage aesthetics in modern timepieces was Longines. With their vast and rich archives of historic watches, there is so much for Longines to draw upon. So, I cannot fault … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Longines Record Heritage reaffirms the brand’s strength in modern meets vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend Edition: A Primer on Dress Watches (Which Are Coming Back In Style Right About...Now)

There's more to life than steel sport watches.

The Value Proposition: The Most Affordable Vintage Rolex Is Worth Your Time

The Oyster 6426 – still the most straightforward Rolex around.

TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for

In a sceptical marketplace, collaborations and partnerships can sometimes be met with hesitancy. Not every tie-in is created equal. Is it a gimmick? A cash-grab? If the through-line is not there, if it does not feel genuine, then the release is often set to tank. But the proof is ultimately in the pudding. Last year, … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer debuts two Formula 1 x Mario Kart Limited Editions that fans will race to shell out for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Getting your Reverso engraved suddenly got a lot sexier with JLC’s new Alex Trochut typeface

Typography can often be one of the deepest psychological art forms, as well as one of the most important. The link between the words we read and the way they’re displayed is vital whether we consciously realise it or not, and it’s the job of a typographer to establish what a typeface communicates beyond the … ContinuedThe post Getting your Reverso engraved suddenly got a lot sexier with JLC’s new Alex Trochut typeface appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Breguet Reine de Naples 8918

The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.

Introducing the Longines Record Heritage

HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact - the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37

We’ve sung many praises for the unique way that NOMOS integrates their Bauhaus-driven design language even when creating tough, water-resistant watches like the Ahoi. The same can be said for the new NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37, thus far only available in a date-equipped 42mm model. This new, downsized release houses the impressively thin neomatik … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Simpler and more compact – the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Masterful Finishing, Extreme Creativity, And Lots Of Moons

Astronomical complications are poetic in nature, more emotional than practical. Calendar complications are the exact opposite: perfectly practical and useful complications for time management. Since the category doesn’t dictate specifically what should be valued and only outlines what fits into the category, it leaves a lot up to our panel on what we subjectively value more and why in this latest round table of 2022 GPHG nominations.

Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches

Galactic emperor, elven king or supervillain – Lee Pace refuses to be typecast, lending his chiselled chin to a variety of larger-than-life characters.  Nominated for an Emmy for his work in Pushing Daisies and hailed for standout performances in Soldier’s Girl and Lincoln, his newest silver-screen foray sees him play a suspect in the slasher-murder-mystery ordeal that is Bodies Bodies … ContinuedThe post Lee Pace, the elven-king-turned-murder-suspect, needs watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What’s all the fuss about watches with a longer power reserve?

When I first got into watches, the concept of power reserve was foreign to me. When it came to the mechanics of a watch, all I knew was that if left on my wrist, I didn’t have to worry about it stopping. Yet as time progressed and the world of watches consumed me, the amount … ContinuedThe post What’s all the fuss about watches with a longer power reserve? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Talking Watches: With Massimo Frascella, Head Of Design At Jaguar And Land Rover

How an automotive designer thinks about watches.

Introducing the Frederique Constant Highlife Vintage Worldtimer Manufacture Edition