Hodinkee
The Next Chapter in Enhanced Technology
CASIO’s latest GMC-B2100 reimagines the 2100 series with a full analog chronograph, blending durability and precision in an evolution of signature style.
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Fratello
Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera
It’s time for a confession: dress watches are generally not for me. This is due to my predominantly casual everyday style and a lack of formal events in my life for which a dress watch would be most appropriate. But that doesn’t say anything about my passionate love for the genre. Dress watches show a […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Tudor Announces the FXD “Zulu Time,” the First Pelagos with a GMT Complication
Sooner or later, you just knew it was going to happen. For as long as there’s been a Pelagos, and as long as there’s been a Tudor GMT movement, and as long as there’s been a human impulse to speculate, there’s been a call for the Swiss brand to release a Pelagos with the ability to track multiple time zones. It just makes sense for the brand’s most tool-forward dive watch: GMTs are what the people want and it’s an undeniably useful feature. And so, like an infinite number of chimpanzees at an infinite number of typewriters are certain to eventually produce the works of Shakespeare, now Tudor has finally issued a diver with all the features their loyal fans have been asking for. Titanium case: check. GMT movement with chronometer certification: check. Rotating 24 hour bezel: check. Spring bars: hey, no one has it all. The all new Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” might feel like an inevitability on the one hand, but on the other it still has a fascinating mix of little quirks that are capable of surprising even the most loyal Tudor fans (and speculators). Like the very first Pelagos FXD, this one is presented under a partnership with the French military. Specifically, the Zulu Time has been developed with the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation) in mind, and according to the brand the watch has been designed for the “adverse real-world conditions” faced by their personnel. For the original FXD, that meant a bi-directional bezel set up in...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Tudor And The Marine Nationale Go Worldwide With The Pelagos FXD GMT 'Zulu Time'
An FXD for the skies.
SJX Watches
Universal Genève Returns with Gregory Bruttin at the Helm
Having been acquired last year by Breitling’s private equity owners, Universal Genève is now officially back in business with both a new chief as well as website – though the new watches will only arrive in autumn 2026. Breitling chief executive Georges Kern takes the same role at Universal, but the managing director will be Gregory Bruttin, a two-decade veteran of Roger Dubuis who was its longtime head of product. An engineer and constructor by training, Mr Bruttin will oversee the development of Universal’s new collection of watches. A once-storied brand founded in 1894, Universal has been dormant for a decade or more. While its historical timepieces like the Tri-Compax and A. Cairelli split-seconds are desirable, the brand has not launched a hit product in a long time. The Tri-Compax Mr Bruttin has no doubt been tasked to fix that. His technical credentials are impeccable – he led the creation of an impressive stable of in-house movements at Roger Dubuis, though his past work was far from the heritage-focused brand that Universal will be. While challenging, Mr Bruttin’s job will be made easier by the fact that Breitling has its own manufacture and corresponding in-house chronograph calibres. The 1950s split-seconds chronograph made for the Italian air force While the launch of the rebooted brand’s first collection is still two years away, Universal is embarking on an immediate plan of brand building. In November the brand will mark the 70th anniversary of t...
Fratello
Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genève - Some History And What To Expect
It has been the better part of a year since Partners Group and CVC Group - the owners of Breitling - announced their acquisition of Universal Genève. Things may have been quiet on the outside, but rest assured plenty was going on behind closed doors. Now we are close to seeing the first fruits of […] Visit Gearing Up For The Revival Of Universal Genève - Some History And What To Expect to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The new Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale
Tudor‘s connection with military forces is no secret anymore. The most famous of these partnerships is, without a doubt, the co-creation of specific dive watches for the French Marine Nationale, which resulted in some of the most appealing mil-spec models ever made by Tudor. Revived in 2021 with the launch of the Pelagos FXD platform, […]
Monochrome
First Look - The New Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table, the Omniscient Merlin Edition
Roger Dubuis, the “Hyper Horology brand” (as it calls itself), has embraced a Middle Ages myth since 2013 with the launch of its Knights of the Round Table series, crafting several métier d’art pieces since. The first edition featured 12 intricately engraved micro-sculptures of the legendary knights, their swords drawn and pointing towards the centre. […]
Fratello
Feel Like A Sorcerer With The Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table, The Omniscient Merlin
How many Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table collectors are there worldwide? There can’t be many, but I suspect the exclusive club is pretty hardcore. Hardcore collectors are meticulous, so I guess they have all 10 “KRT” creations that have come out since 2013 in chronological order in their enormous watch cabinets in trophy […] Visit Feel Like A Sorcerer With The Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table, The Omniscient Merlin to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic
You’re right; this isn’t the recently introduced two-hand Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface in its almost-true-to-1931 size. This is “only” the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds version that the brand added to its collection during last year’s edition of Watches and Wonders in Geneva. However, it still feels quite new, especially next to its blue, red, […] Visit Hands-On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Is A Truly Modernized Classic to read the full article.
Fratello
Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase
The next chapter in the MoonSwatch collection shifts perspectives and brings something new to the table. Is it enough to get you excited? Swatch has just announced a new model within the highly successful MoonSwatch collection. Yes, it’s yet another one, and yes, the line is highly successful. Even though the days of never-ending queues […] Visit Swatch Shifts Perspectives And Introduces The MoonSwatch Mission To Earthphase to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary
With major wrist presence and even more cool factor, we’ve gone hands-on with the 140th Anniversary Breitling Super Chronomat Perpetual Calendar! What We Love: The rose gold and black colour combination looks great The skeleton dial gives depth and character to the piece The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear. What We Don’t: The onion crown can be a little finicky to unscrew/screw It won’t fit or suit all wrist sizes being 44mm The dial can appear busy at first glance Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 As you may well have heard, this year marks the 140th Anniversary of Breitling. It’s a big birthday for the brand, now headed up by Georges Kern, who in recent years has gone back through the history of Breitling and helped to re-define the brand. With new models that harken back to its past, and the vision that Leon Breitling had all the way back in 1884, through to when his son, Gaston took over the business and launched their patented chronograph in 1932, to the days of the icons under Willy Breitling, it’s no wonder there is such a large and illustrious back catalogue to take inspiration from! So celebrate its 140th Anniversary, Breitling released three perpetual calendars, at Geneva Watch Days 2024 – A Premier, Navitimer and Super Chronomat. According to Georges Kern, they couldn’t do justice to the 140 years of history with just one watch, so they went with th...
Fratello
Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit - With Live Photos
The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is one of the brand’s most popular offerings. Now, in addition to silver, green, and blue dials, the model is available in Neugraphit, a dark gray tone. If you’re concerned that it’s another gray-and-white Bauhaus design, rest your fears because Sternglas has added bright colors to the mix. When considering what […] Visit Introducing: The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik Neugraphit - With Live Photos to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne's Datograph Handwerkskunst
With special guest: the Unique Hampton Court Datograph on bracelet.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT, Another Cool 1970s Remake
Since its relaunch in 2020, the historic brand Nivada Grenchen has become one of the most active watch companies in the field of vintage revivals. Take a look at the entire portfolio of models offered by Nivada, and you’ll see that almost everything is based on a historic design. And the brand’s latest creation, a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Review: Neobrutalist Horology & the Kollokium Projekt 01
About 15 years ago I came across a brand out of the Netherlands called d.m.h. which was, in reality, a single person by the name of Fred Dingemans, working out of a shed in his backyard. His creations were raw and slightly impractical, but they were also a pure expression of creativity, and unwaveringly original. These watches were captivating at a glance, showcasing a similar level of creative fidelity to what we were seeing from the likes of Urwerk and MB&F; at the time. This is a quality sorely taken for granted these days, with most of the newcomers wisely choosing to play it safe with practical, conventionally attractive creations that can go anywhere, and do anything. I have a well-documented love of practical tool watches that can go anywhere and do anything, but I often lament the homogeneous nature of watch design that this trend has brought us to. Truly novel expressions are a rare sight these days, but there has been exactly one to cross my radar over the past year that has brought a similar feeling to seeing a d.m.h. watch all those years ago, and that is the kollokium projekt 01. My first glimpse of kollokium came when I spotted one on the wrist of one of the co-founders while attending the Dubai Watch Week events of 2023. This individual, uncoincidentally, is also responsible for the avant-garde creations coming out of Louis Errard these days. His name is Manuel Emch, and he is one of three men (the others being Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi) behind koll...
Monochrome
Introducing - The New Porsche Design Chronograph 911 GT3 and 911 GT3 Touring
It has become a classic pattern for Porsche Design. Porsche, the car brand, launches a new car and at the same time, PD presents its own vision of the matching timepiece, with the idea of having the perfect combination of vehicle and watch. Last week, Porsche (cars) released its latest editions of the 911 GT3 […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Yacht-Master & Yacht-Master II: The Comprehensive Guide to the K
The Rolex Yacht-Master occupies a prominent but, for many, difficult-to-define area within the company’s overall portfolio. It’s regarded as a popular dress watch but is firmly positioned within the “Professional” collection. It looks a lot like a Submariner but isn’t really a dive watch, so it’s really not like a Submariner at all. It’s designed as a men’s watch but has become a canvas for some very feminine executions. And unlike other Rolex models that offer an original “I” and a second-generation “II” version, like the GMT-Master and Explorer, the Yacht-Master I and II are scarcely related in their design or functions at all. And yet, the Yacht-Master remains a top-tier timepiece both for Rolex and its legions of fans, and in its relatively short span on the market has welcomed a number of innovative materials and technologies into the Rolex fold. Read on to discover more about the Rolex Yacht-Master (in all its various versions) and what makes the model unique among its Oyster Perpetual brethren. 1967 - 1969 - The Prototype: Cosmograph Yacht-Master Rolex Cosmograph Yacht-Master, circa 1967 (photo: Rolex Magazine.com) While the Yacht-Master as we know it today traces its genesis only to 1992, the name appeared on a Rolex dial several decades before - on a watch that resembled more an evolution of the Daytona than of the Submariner - indicating that a sailing-themed watch was something that Rolex had been tinkering with as an organization for...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Return of the Triton Spirotechnique Dive Watch
While the Rolex Submariner, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Omega Seamaster ruled the 1950s enthusiast and military diving scene, it was the Triton Spirotechnique in 1963 that briefly became the most expensive dive watch of its times, although never the best known. It was developed for the Spirotechnique company (Aqualung), founded by oceanographer/filmmaker/French naval officer Jacques […]
Monochrome
Introducing - The New, Classic-Looking MeisterSinger Primatic 365
Since its founding in 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various functional complications to its single-hand watches, including jumping hours, moon phases, and even the Bell Hora series, which chimes on the hour. In 2022, the Münster-based brand unveiled the all-new Primatic collection, adding a power reserve watch to its lineup. Though MeisterSinger had previously incorporated this […]
Fratello
Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition
I am a big fan of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition,” but the Black Bay Chrono? Not so much. Neither the black and white versions nor the steel and gold model ever struck a chord with me. And the pink version? Well, once I saw it on a wrist in Geneva, it made […] Visit Chasing My Doubts And Blues Away With The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Blue” Boutique Edition to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Andreas Strehler Sirna: It Shocked Me!
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Ochs und Junior Christmas Edition 2024 goes back to the basics of the 2008 Settimana
Ochs und Junior (in reality, it should be written ochs und junior, no capital letters) was founded in 2006 by Ludwig Oechslin, Beat Weinmann and Kurt König – the former being one of the most revered inventors of the Swiss watch industry, the former Director of the International Museum of Horology and the man who […]
Hodinkee
Happenings: Yusra Mardini To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Oris Ambassador will discuss how Oris approaches sustainability as a leading climate and carbon-neutral watch brand.
Monochrome
Introducing - The De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon
It looks like watchmaker/alchemist Denis Flageollet has been tinkering in his laboratory again, fusing core models with features borrowed from other references to produce something even better. As one of the brand’s most iconic references, the De Bethune DB28 has recently enjoyed some very attractive makeovers. Immediately identified by its crown at noon, delta-shaped bridge, […]
Deployant
Review: The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
H. Moser & Cie presents the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the Swiss brand's first timepiece with a retrograde seconds display.
Monochrome
First Look - The Awake Son Mài Collection, a New Direction for the Brand with its First Permanent Range
Coming up for its fifth anniversary, French indie brand Awake releases Son Mài, its first permanent collection comprised of four time-only references illustrating the art of ancestral Vietnamese sanded lacquer paired with the application of pure silver leaf gilding. Marking a new direction for the brand, the former titanium cases and Miyota movements have been […]
Fratello
Hands-On: The 37mm Ebel Sport Classic - A Go-To Watch Of Yesteryear Is Still Relevant
To put it mildly, Ebel is not the most active brand. But if the products are okay, that goes a long way. Ebel was a force to reckon with back in the 1980s and early 1990s. The brand was everywhere, from the wrists of the world’s best tennis players to those of kids who had […] Visit Hands-On: The 37mm Ebel Sport Classic - A Go-To Watch Of Yesteryear Is Still Relevant to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Norqain Independence Skeleton 42mm, now in Grey
Norqain’s Independence family is home to many of the brand’s most coveted models, including the recently released Independence Skeleton Chrono with a proprietary manufacture calibre developed with GMT. The Independence is also home to the robust carbon fibre Wild One, conceived with Jean-Claude Biver, as well as the brand’s first skeletonised model introduced in 2021. […]
SJX Watches
The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453
Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability. Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...