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Results for Côtes de Genève

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Côtes de Genève

Parallel-striped decoration on bridges and rotors; the Swiss (or Glashütte) finishing marker.

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin May 2, 2020

In-Depth: The Bespoke (and Custom) Experience at Andersen Genève

When applied to watches, “bespoke” brings to mind the ultra-complicated timepieces made for famous historical figures like James W. Packard and Henry Graves Jr., who each commissioned a succession of one-off watches that pushed the technical boundaries of watchmaking in the early decades of the 20th century. One of those watches, the landmark Patek Philippe “Supercomplication” made for Graves, long held the title of most-expensive-watch ever sold. In the modern day, watchmakers continue to create unique watches. Patek Philippe does it quietly for its best clients, while Vacheron Constantin is more public with its Atelier Cabinotiers department that specialises in customised timepieces. Similarly, artisanal independent watchmakers like Voutilainen often accept commissions. But as a collector, how easy is it to dip your toes into the waters of bespoke or custom watchmaking? This is my maiden experience with such watches, which started at Andersen Geneve some six years ago. Svend at work Industrial vs. artisanal I first wanted to get involved in the creation of a custom watch in 2014. I already knew then it could not merely be changing colours on the dial or hands, neither could it be an engraved monogram. What I wanted was a truly unique world-time watch with a Louis Cottier-type mechanism. At the same time, I had a certain budget in mind, so I approached independent watchmakers that made watches I liked, but with steel cases. Somewhat naively, I thought adding a ti...

INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac Time+Tide
Dec 3, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac

Much as it shames me to admit it, until writing about this watch, I rather naively thought that Stan Smith was a shoe designer … how very Gen Y of me. As it turns out, Smith is rather more than a proponent of Adidas’s enduringly vogue white sneaker – he was a legend of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Stan Smith Signature Watch by Maurice de Mauriac appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook comes correct Nov 15, 2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging ’60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Andersen Genève Montre à Tact for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 11, 2019

In-Depth: Andersen Genève Montre à Tact for Only Watch 2019

Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino is a very persuasive man. Every two years, he manages to convince small watchmakers to risk neglecting paying customers, and instead to spend a lot of time and effort to exercise their creativity in building a one-off timepiece – and then give the resulting watch to the Only Watch charity auction. Most watchmakers regard it as an honour to be asked for a contribution, after all, the list of participants include boldface establishment names like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. While Luc also receives many offers from brands, he wants to curate an interesting mix of watches for each Only Watch auction, capped at a maximum of 50 watches or so each time – he alone decides what’s in and what’s out. A few brands have been dedicated supporters of the charity since the very beginning, and they are usually invited to return year after year. In the inaugural Only Watch auction in 2005, lot 1 was the unique Eros “Navigation Pleasure” wristwatch. It was the work of Andersen Genève, the brand founded by Svend Andersen, a 77-year old veteran independent watchmaker best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). When Luc visited Svend at Baselworld earlier this year to solicit a contribution for Only Watch 2019, he received a swift “yes”. With the watch required to be finished for a world tour starting just three months after Baselworld, quick decisions were necessary a...

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Editor’s note I Oct 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor’s note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious “quartz crisis”. Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Observatory Chronometers that Timed the Tour de France SJX Watches
Longines split-seconds stop watches – Aug 12, 2019

The Observatory Chronometers that Timed the Tour de France

Watches once owned by prominent personalities are captivating. Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona, the Rolex “Bao Dai”, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Henry Graves Supercomplication, and even J. Pierpont Morgan’s lost pocket watch, are amongst most sought after timepieces in the world. In fact, a good number of the most expensive watches ever sold at auction have notable provenance, which turns a mere watch into a historical artefact. Probably the most important timekeepers in cycling, these are a pair of Longines split-seconds stop watches – refs. 7411 and 8350 respectively – that were used by Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation, to time the Tour de France in the fading glory days of mechanical sports timing, just before quartz stopwatches took over. In fact, the pair of stopwatches are not merely chronographs, but also observatory certified chronometers. Watchmaking once represented the cutting edge research of mechanical engineering. Observatory time trials at Neuchatel, Geneva or Kew were rigorous scientific affairs, with movements Peseux 260 and Zenith 135 competing to be the most accurate movement in the world. But such movements were three-hand, time-only. Aside from tourbillon movements, very few complicated calibres were submitted to timing contests. Mr Pitallier’s pair of Longines were both certified by the Neuchatel observatory. The swan song of competitive timekeeping In modern day watch collectin...

HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune Time+Tide
Hermes Aug 2, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune

There’s an inherent romance in all mechanical wristwatches - a romance drawn largely from the fact that these painstakingly created devices are fundamentally anachronistic machines that have been superseded several times over. Yet, still they manage to survive and, indeed, thrive.  And it might just be me, but this romance factor is more present than … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase Jul 24, 2019

A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune

Editor’s note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on …  The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such … ContinuedThe post A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Chanel Pocket Watch Every year Chanel Jun 24, 2019

Hands-On: Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch

Every year Chanel debuts a handful of timekeeping objects that are sleekly monochromatic yet lavishly constructed of precious materials like gold and rock crystal. They are beautiful, expensive, and the sort of object that would look at home in a US$100m penthouse. And because there are enough such penthouses to go around, these objets d’art inevitably find owners every year. Last year’s collection of objects included the Monsieur de Chanel Chronosphere, a clock within a glass globe supported by blackened-bronze lions, which was a five-piece limited edition. But the collection also included the one of a kind Monsieur de Chanel Pocket Watch suspended in a jewelled stand, an object that is simultaneously discreet and extravagant. Photo – Chanel Although the pocket watch and its stand retail for almost US$800,000, it is discreet to a fault.  All of the materials within are precious, but the entire object is almost monochromatic. The pocket watch can be removed and carried, but is more likely to function as the ultimate desk clock. Standing about 25cm, or 10in, high, the stand is polished 18k white gold and panelled in glossy obsidian, a black, volcanic rock. And while it does not look the part, the sculpted lion is also 18k gold, but coated entirely in smooth, black Hyceram, a composite of ceramic and polymer. The diamonds within the stand are substantial, but subtle – the lion’s paw rests on a 18k gold sphere covered in baguette diamonds. The big ca...

INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune Time+Tide
Blancpain s Villeret Women Quantième Feb 11, 2019

INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune

If the increasingly frantic targeted ads in my Instagram feed for fancy underwear and/or chocolate are anything to go by, Valentine’s Day is just around the corner. Well, if you’re reading this and have left your extravagant-show-of-affection-giftstravaganza run a little late, don’t worry. We - or rather Blancpain - have your back. Say hello to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Love is in the air – Blancpain’s Villeret Women Quantième Phases de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Dec 24, 2018

IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune

The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such a rich history as the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms -is a challenge at the best of times. Do you stick to classic tool watch roots? Do you step outside the box with a … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Annuel Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The viper strikes! TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère Time+Tide
TAG Heuer s Carrera Calibre 02 Oct 9, 2018

VIDEO: The viper strikes! TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère

As far as cool watch names go, this watch has one of the coolest: I mean, the head of the viper - it doesn’t get much more rock than that. And while the story behind the name is less viper lounge and more viper observatory, the watch itself easily lives up to its rock star … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The viper strikes! TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre 02 Tourbillon Tête de Vipère appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat in steel - driving the value proposition Time+Tide
Cartier Extra Flat May 21, 2018

IN-DEPTH: the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat in steel - driving the value proposition

The story in a second: A lot of value for not a lot of case. Though “perceived value” has become the new marketing-speak of the last couple of years in the watch industry, there still aren’t that many brands in the luxury watch industry that have taken any real significant strides. Sure, we’ve seen prices … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat in steel - driving the value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s complex marvel – the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon Time+Tide
Cartier s complex marvel – Oct 9, 2017

HANDS-ON: Cartier’s complex marvel – the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon

Here at Time+Tide we tend to focus on the simpler end of Cartier’s offerings, classic beauties like the Tank or the Drive Extra Flat. But there’s another side to the famous jewellery maison’s watch offerings that’s, well, exceptionally complex. The Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon is one such watch. If you didn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Cartier’s complex marvel – the Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Orion 38 100 years De Stijl Limited Edition for Ace Jewellers Time+Tide
Nomos Orion 38 100 years Sep 3, 2017

INTRODUCING: The Nomos Orion 38 100 years De Stijl Limited Edition for Ace Jewellers

Dutch design seems to be synonymous with eccentricities, oddities and a flair for the abstract. Characterised by typical and anomalous arrangements and a general nonconformist approach, “De Stijl” design tends to be polarising, to say the least. The term “De Stijl” literally translates to “the style”, and is also known as neoplasticism. Unless you’re up … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Nomos Orion 38 100 years De Stijl Limited Edition for Ace Jewellers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Masculinity meets romance in the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases Time+Tide
Cartier Moon Phases Apr 22, 2017

HANDS-ON: Masculinity meets romance in the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases

In our recently published interview, Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s Head of Marketing and Communications, said that the Drive represents a different kind of masculinity, one that isn’t defined by “muscles, sport, achievement, performance”, but by “elegance, and style, and refinement.” Looking at the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases, you can see what he means. It’s a confident watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Masculinity meets romance in the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The new Panthère de Cartier – an ’80s icon back on the prowl Time+Tide
Cartier Jan 20, 2017

INTRODUCING: The new Panthère de Cartier – an ’80s icon back on the prowl

No one was quite sure what to expect at SIHH this year, so it was a thrill to see Cartier getting on the front foot with a female-focused re-release of the Panthère de Cartier. First launched in the 1980s, it sat well with the cultural cues of the time: big hair, shoulder pads, Dynasty. Charlie Sheen’s character, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Panthère de Cartier – an ’80s icon back on the prowl appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.