2,777 articles · 5 videos found · page 49 of 93
Glashütte Original's fifteenth limited Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date keeps things deliberately quiet. 100 pieces, German-speaking markets only, the in-house Calibre 37-02. Here's what actually changes for the XV.
A cleaner dress flyback and a tool-watch navigator replace the outgoing Panorama Date models. Both are worth your attention.
The new 70s Collection strips away the chronograph and doubles down on what made the original era great
The latest GO x Meissen collab brings a hand-painted Jugatsu-zakura cherry blossom dial to the Senator family
Monochrome
The Orion is one of Nomos Glashütte’s most formal series, with the restrained proportions and curved case design that have defined the collection since its introduction. The new Orion Gold Neomatik “New Black” pairs an 18k yellow gold case with a deep black dial and fine golden details. The combination relies on the contrast between […]
Monochrome
Among the new independent watch brands recently unveiled, Marcu stands out for several reasons: not only for the originality of its debut timepiece, but also for the original background of the man behind it. Jérôme Marcu is no rookie when it comes to watchmaking. With a career that began in the 1980s, it is remarkable […]
Hodinkee
What We Know A. Lange & Söhne is synonymous with the most elegant approach to maximalist watchmaking. The tiny time-telling cities contained within the brand's cases are hypnotic and baffling. Trust me, it becomes all the more impressive when you visit Glashütte and see the work in action. And the brand's CEO, Wilhelm Schmid, has said that among the complicated watches the brand is known for, their most talented watchmakers would often far rather work on tourbillons and perpetual calendars than the famous Triple Split. It's that complex. It's that impressive. And after five years away, it's back. In 2018, Lange launched the first version of the "upgrade," of sorts, to the brand's Double Split. The watch is essentially a rattrapante (a chronograph that can time two intervals), but with the added ability to "split" the interval of the 30-minute counter and, with the Triple Split, the 12-hour counter. It's an incredibly technical and impressive bit of watchmaking and even more impressive when you hear it's cased in a relatively compact (for its complexity) 43.2mm by 15.6mm case, now in platinum. This is the first time the watch has been made in platinum and the first example since 2021. The dial is 0.925 silver, with a light grey track and main dial and dark grey lower subdials, plus luminous hands and hour markers. Finally, the case is water-resistant to 50 meters. The movement, the manually wound L123.1 caliber, is made of 567 parts, 46 jewels, and has 5 screwed gold chat...
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-sized 1815 Up/Down is reincarnated as a dark blue panda 300-piece limited edition in a slender, 37.5 mm case. More faithful than usual to the Glashütte watchmaking tradition, inside and out, the 1815 Up/Down has a lot to offer for an “entry-level” Lange, if ever there was such a thing. Initial Thoughts The dial’s layout is inspired by the most common location for a up/down indicator on a pocket watch, at 12 o’clock, while the running seconds sits in a small sundial at six o’clock. But when a hunter-type movement is packaged into an open face case the up/down indicator moves to nine o’clock and the seconds to three o’clock, as was the case for many deck watches made by the first A. Lange & Söhne company during the Second World War, which is a very handsome dial layout. The lack of up and down, F and E, haut et bas, or, in this case, AB und AUF, on modern power reserve indicators is a pet peeve of mine, and one of the many things Lange does right. Another is two tone dials, the Datograph, especially the sleeker Datograph Up/Down, is one of the best-looking watches out there, and this look quite similar. That, combined with the smaller 37.5 mm case size (down from 39 mm) makes this 1815 Up/Down quite different from its past lives. For me, it is certainly more up than down, with the best-looking dial and a contemporary mid-sized case, so making it a limited edition of 300 pieces in each colourway is disappointing. Another letdown: I pr...
Monochrome
Baltic is giving its Aquascaphe GMT the MK-II treatment, and the good news is, it is more capable and accessible than before. The Aquascaphe MK-II got its update last year, and now the GMT diver gets the same sharper case design, but with a much bigger change inside. Introduced in 2020, the original Aquascaphe GMT […]
Hodinkee
What We Know Today, amongst a slate of other launches and re-releases, Gallet — now a part of the Breitling "House of Brands" — lifted the curtain on the Gallet Multichron Pilot. The new watch takes the recipe of the original 1969 Multichron Pilot and updates it, and the result is a watch that is recognizable but also, arguably, the most contemporary model in the very fresh Gallet lineup. The new watch does borrow heavily from its namesake, and seeing the two watches next to each other highlights the similarities. The new Multichron Pilot is still a tri-compax chronograph, with a bi-directional twelve-hour bezel, pump pushers, stick hands, and cut-off arrow-shaped markers. By way of comparison, a vintage Gallet Multichron Pilot. Image, courtesy Analog Shift. But there are definite differences too, many of which are concessions to modern taste. For one thing, those cut-off arrow-shaped indices are now lumed instead of polished, but there's also a date — visible through an aperture at 6 o'clock — and while the telemeter remains on the new watch, the tachymeter (which appeared as a second scale on vintage examples) is omitted. The watch is also bigger than vintage Multichrons. The new watch has been upsized from 38 to 42mm, is 11.3mm thick, and measures 45.59mm lug-to-lug. At that size, the new Multichron Pilot is the largest watch in the new Gallet catalog but is still quite reasonable and a far cry from some of the oversized watches that still seem to populate Bre...
Fratello
Over the past decade, CIGA Design has surprised us with some wildly original creations. The most famous, without a doubt, is the Blue Planet, which has won multiple horology prizes, including a GPHG Award in 2021. Another remarkable series is the Everest, which celebrates the conquest of the world’s highest mountain. For its next release […] Visit Conquering Mount Everest With The CIGA Design Everest China 65th Anniversary to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having remade – and refined – its first-ever wristwatch, Louis Vuitton now does the same for the second. The Monterey Ceramic is a reimagining of the LV II of 1988, preserving the Gae Aulenti-designed case and dial but in modern, high-end materials and execution. As with the earlier Monterey in 18k gold, the new model in ceramic does away with the quartz movement of the 1988 original and replaces it with an in-house automatic calibre. The case has been scaled up a little to accommodate the calibre, but retains the proportions and quirky form of the original. But unlike last year’s model, the Monterey Ceramic is regular production. Initial thoughts The Monterey Ceramic is basically a more affordable iteration of last year’s limited edition in 18k gold. It retains the same design, movement, but replaces gold with ceramic (and steel), and the fired enamel dial with a lacquered one. Even with these changes, the Monterey Ceramic is still a far more sophisticated watch than its 1988 inspiration. I like the styling of the 1988 originals, and the modern-day reissues both manage to capture the look and feel of the originals. The Monterey Ceramic in particular sticks to the case diameter of the original, albeit a little thicker, but sticks closely enough to the proportions of the LV II. The Monterey Ceramic is priced like a modern-day luxury watch, but it has the intrinsic features to justify the price. The Monterey Ceramic costs €19,000 before taxes, which is less than a ...
Hodinkee
This week on The Business of Watches, a visit with the folks running Armin Strom, a true original in the small but increasingly crowded field of independent watch brands. It takes its name and original inspiration from the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who was best known for his innovative and record-setting skeletonizing techniques on watches and dials. Childhood friends Serge Michel and Claude Greisler took over the brand in 2006. Michel, who controls the company, came from a family business background (in another field of business), while Greisler was a watchmaker and engineer. Twenty years on, Armin Strom is a true original in Swiss watchmaking, producing unique timepieces pushing the boundaries of contemporary horology from an atelier in Biel / Bienne, where most of the components are produced, decorated and finished for the brand's proprietary, in-house designed movements. Claude Greisler (left) and Serge Michel, the co-founders of Armin Strom. This week the brand launch a new version of its Dual Time GMT Resonance in a "manufacture blue edition" with a blue mainplate. The watch employs Armin Strom's unique take on the concept of resonance with dual oscillators kept in balance by its proprietary 'resonance clutch.' The story of the development of the brand's take on the concept is a key element in its journey and we explore and unpack that process in-depth in the episode. Currently making about 400 watches a year with a staff of about 55 people, Armin Strom is on...
WristBuzz
The beloved vintage-inspired chronograph gets a new dial color, and it's a serious upgrade from the forest green original.
Hodinkee
What We Know Only seven years ago, Czapek, a brand over 180 years old, opened its first modern boutique in Geneva, right next to the brand's original workshop from 1839. Soon after, it opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris. Its first collection, called "Quai des Bergues," celebrated the first boutique; another collection celebrated that boutique in France. Now, the brand has reopened its Geneva boutique with a new look and is celebrating with a new watch from each collection. The newest Quai des Bergues "Midnight in Geneva" uses the brand's proprietary SXH1 hand-wound movement, cased in a mid-sized 40.5mm by 11.9mm stainless steel case with sandblasted, hollowed-out lugs. The watch is an impressive bit of watchmaking in a really elegant form. The watch has a power reserve indicator, weekday indicator, and subsidiary seconds, but the power reserve is a massive 7 days. The elegance comes in part from a beautiful dark blue aventurine dial with silver powder-coated steel Fleur-de-Lys hands, printed elongated Roman numerals, and a chemin de fer outer track. The watch, with a 50-meter water resistance, is limited to 18 pieces and retails for $28,600. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue is a new treatment for the brand's open-worked double-escapement watch created in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer. While the previous watch was technically impressive but visually reserved, the Place Vendôme Complicité puts complexity at the forefront. The watch fe...
Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor just brought back a watch from the past and one that many fans have been asking for since its discontinuation: Say hello to the all new Tudor Northflag. What made the original such a major part of the modern Tudor story was the fact that, upon its release in 2015, it boasted the brand’s first use of an in-house m
Monochrome
Hamilton’s Murph watch got its popularity almost entirely from its role in Christopher Nolan’s 2014 film Interstellar. The watch created for the film returned as a production model in 2019, first in 42mm, before Hamilton introduced a smaller 38mm version in 2022. This 38mm model has carried different styles, from the original black dial to […]
Worn & Wound
The field watch has long provided a blank canvas for creative – or in many cases not so creative – designs. Leave it to a brand like Studio Underd0g to take a timeless classic and give it a fresh and decidedly fun spin. That’s exactly what the brand did in 2023 with the launch of its 02SERIES. The line recently got a glow up with Gen2, which notably introduced a more streamlined case – down to a 37mm diameter from the original 37.5mm and down to 11.5mm thickness from the original 12mm. In addition, the new Gen2 collection got an upgraded movement from the Sellita SW210-1 to the Sellita SW200-2 M, which in turn upped the power reserve from 42 hours to 63 hours. Still, the biggest departure we see from the run of the mill field watch is the use of color – a trait Studio Underd0g has become known for – with four shades: Red L0lly, Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, and Nightshade. Now, for the first time, a limited color run comes to the Gen2 series – this is the Special Edition 02SERIES Mantis. For this limited edition, we don’t just get a bright new green colorway by day – we get one that glows bright green by night. Yup, that’s right – it’s a full-lume dial. Thanks to a generous application of X1 GL C3 Super-LumiNova (a whopping seven layers to be exact), the daytime green ombre transforms into a single, uniform glow once the light fades. Here, at the base, you have that well-refined case design of the new Gen2 makeup. The dial gets a pleasing green colo...
Hodinkee
What We Know Seiko has launched a new version of their popular vintage-inspired 1965 Heritage Diver, with a dial and color palette chosen by you. Okay, well, maybe not you directly, but through a fan-selection process that Seiko launched last year to mark the 60th anniversary of the original 62MAS diver. Seiko fans were presented with four variants of a watch that would eventually reach production, each inspired by a different tone and color the ocean can take on over the course of a day. In the end, the winner of last summer's campaign was this "Daytime Blue" color, which evokes the clear blue waters you'll find in tropical locales where the water is clear and the sun is shining. Other options included a bright yellow, deep green, and orange-y red. It's not wholly surprising that the blue dial would have won in a public ballot, but each is compelling, and I'll be curious to see whether Seiko, having developed and shown off the full range, ever chooses to release any of the other colors. The watch itself is a familiar one. The HBC011 shares a spec sheet with the enthusiast-favorite (and James') favorite SPB lineup of dive watches, specifically with the '20MAS' generation released in 2024, which brought with it a host of quality-of-life improvements, including a refined case and new movement. That case, which Seiko claims to be 40mm wide, 13mm thick, and 46.6mm lug-to-lug (and which James measured at 40.2mm wide, 13.4mm thick, and 46.6mm lug-to-lug in his Hands-On), is agai...
Monochrome
Formex is giving its best-selling, compact Essence 39mm a refresh, bringing in technical and ergonomic improvements. The 39mm Essence was first showcased in 2020 as the smaller sibling to the original 43mm model, and we have since seen it in everything from the regular collection to the meteorite-dial Essence 39 Space Gold and wine-toned Gamaret. […]
Fratello
Truth be told, the original Atelier Wen Inflection already felt like a statement. A young brand executing an integrated-bracelet sports watch in 99.9% pure tantalum, pairing it with grand feu enamel, and backing it with a customized Girard-Perregaux movement was ambitious. Now comes the Inflection Shuò, a collaboration with New York-based Massena Lab that elevates […] Visit Tantalizing Tantalum: The Atelier Wen × Massena Lab Inflection Shuò to read the full article.
Monochrome
Tutima, based in Glashütte, earned its wings in the 1940s with its military and pilot’s watches and, in 1941, produced Germany’s first two-pusher flyback chronograph (later referred to as the Flieger). In 2019, Tutima released a contemporary, less tool-oriented, time-and-date take on the Flieger. The latest model to join the squadron is the Flieger T5, […]
Fratello
Meet a high-end watch brand built on a deep love for everything horological and ample experience to bring the founders’ original vision to life. Wei Koh, founder of Revolution and The Rake, and watch industry veteran Guillaume Tetu, who worked for TAG Heuer, Hautlence, and Ralph Lauren, started Legare to unearth long-lost horological treasures and […] Visit Materializing Forgotten Horology: Introducing The New Watch Brand Legare And Its Chapter 1 AGP Inverted to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
A look at the Tudor Black Bay Monochrome with original photos, analysis, and pricing for this METAS-certified dive watch.
Monochrome
Do you know many brands that embrace colour as confidently as Nomos Glashütte? Watchmakers often introduce brightly coloured dials as limited seasonal releases, yet Nomos has made them part of its identity, particularly within the Club Campus collection. We have seen everything from Future Orange and Absolute Grey to Starlight and Night Sky, Nonstop Red […]
Monochrome
For 25 years, MeisterSinger’s signature single-hand watches encouraged a more relaxed perception of time, focusing on the broader flow of the day rather than its smallest divisions. Earlier this year, the German brand presented the Edition Unitas 1Z, a limited anniversary model that revived the original 2004 Edition 1Z, its first watch to feature a […]
Fratello
Many of you will know that, from 1988 to 2010, Omega offered a smaller alternative to its Moonwatch known as the Speedmaster Reduced (reference 3510.50.00). There was also a series of smaller Speedmaster models that looked similar to the Reduced and offered a date or calendar, but only one used the original Moonwatch as a […] Visit The Modest Moonwatch Alternative: Omega’s Speedmaster Reduced to read the full article.
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann continues to celebrate the 200th anniversary of its founder, Carl Moritz Grossmann (1826-1885), one of the key figures behind Glashütte’s rise as a powerhouse of German watchmaking. Following the Hamatic, the Tremblage, the Tefnut and the Backpage Tremblage, the brand honours its founder with yet another anniversary gift. Once again, a model from the […]
Monochrome
Unlike the noise generated by the release of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimers in 2025, Nomos Glashütte’s novelties at Watches & Wonders this year focused more on refined versions of its core collection. Among these refinements was the Tangente Neomatik 38 Update, featuring the brand’s patented peripheral ring date complication, which returned in a more […]
WristBuzz
Singer's latest Heritage piece pairs a new-old-stock Valjoux 72 with finishing work that puts the original factory job to shame.
Monochrome
The seconds hand was a bit late to the party, as original pocket watches only featured an hour hand – movements were so inaccurate early on that even minute hands weren’t considered. Two key inventions changed the game in the mid-17th century, with one genius behind them. In 1656, Dutch scientist and horologist Christiaan Huygens […]
Monochrome
For more than four decades, Bernhard Lederer has built a reputation on tangible achievements: remarkable timepieces, original escapements, and chronometric innovations. Yet the watches themselves reveal only part of the story. Behind each creation lies a way of thinking that has evolved over a lifetime devoted to independent watchmaking. Rather than retracing milestones or celebrating […]
Fratello
I’ve owned my Seiko Marinemaster SBDX001 for over ten years, and it impresses me as much today as it did back in 2015. However, the original Marinemaster had some “flaws.” Such as the Hardlex crystal, steel bezel insert, and flimsy-feeling clasp and diving extension. Seiko released many references after the SBDX001, but not all of […] Visit Video: The Best Seiko Diver Just Got Better! to read the full article.
Monochrome
Singer Reimagined releases the Heritage V72, a handsome chronograph powered by a restored new-old-stock Valjoux 72 movement. Beyond an exercise in restoration, Singer pays tribute to the calibre’s iconic architecture, revealing its hidden attributes through elevated finishings that far surpass those of the original movement. Presented in a compact 38.8mm case with a glassbox caseback, […]
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