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The Rolex chronograph born on the racetrack. History, references and specs.
Every Rolex Cosmograph Daytona reference: 6239, 6263, 16520 Zenith, 116500LN, 126500LN.
Time+Tide
Rolex, Richard Mille, IWC, and Patek Philippe are all on the table. But Brady's AP is the hot topic...The post Is Tom Brady about to be in horological hot water with Audemars Piguet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
There seems to be a clear correlation between watch enthusiasts and cinephiles. From Arnold Schwarzenegger’s Seiko H558-5009 (mentioned in one of my previous articles) to Marlon Brando’s bezel-less Rolex GMT Master 1675, watches and their film counterparts have been the focus of discussion in the watch collector space for years. While an Arnie will cost you around $500 and 1675s over $10k, pieces of film history can be obtained by hobbyists of all tax brackets. However, even the several hundred-dollar price for a girthy Seiko diver may still be out of the price range for many collectors who find the allure of Hollywood memorabilia sitting in their watch case to be intriguing. Enter the Timex Camper. In the opening sequence of Ethan and Joel Coen’s 2007 masterpiece film No Country for Old Men, protagonist Llewelyn Moss (played by Josh Brolin) tracks game animals across the West Texas plains. He bends down on one knee, takes his watch out, and holds it to the sun––attempting to use the shadows of the handset on the dial to track his direction. The audience fortunately gets a few frames of the watch on screen. What’s shown is a Timex Camper, dark green, with a matching fabric strap. It’s rather small in the shot, but us collectors will take whatever wristwatch screen time we can get. The Camper’s aesthetics obviously differentiate it from the aforementioned Arnie and 1675, but its most important trait for us is its price. For well under $100––commonly li...
Fratello
Rolex surprised us all when the brand launched a Submariner with a green bezel in 2003. The stainless steel Sub was steadily monochromatic during the five preceding decades, so this was a bit of a shocker. The model was soon nicknamed “Kermit.” More than two decades later, it seems green is here to stay. We […] Visit Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
History is a double edged sword for a budget conscious collector like me. The nerdy half of me loves to get caught up in the horological space race of 1969 and participate in the 1953 drama of debating if Smiths or Rolex wore it best on top of Everest. But while my romantic side finds joy in history, the frugal collector in me has some reservations. This side of me knows that the watch industry is in constant flux as it adapts to new technologies, reacts to wars and navigates economic shifts. It’s the side of me that acknowledges brands brimming with pedigree did not weather this history unchanged, and can’t help but notice the value from those shiny new microbrands with seemingly no history to offer. What is a collector to do when they have a romantic enthusiast on one shoulder telling them the story behind a watch matters and a frugal cynic on the other asking if a plastic chronograph is really worth a premium because its metal counterpart went to the moon? Personally, rambling blog-style until coming to some sort of conclusion aimed at making sense of an often nonsensical hobby has never steered me wrong. Provenance vs Pedigree: A Collector’s Dilemma Historical watch conversations often focus on provenance, which can most simply be defined as the story behind a specific watch. Provenance is what separates Paul Newman’s Daytona from every other “Paul Newman” Daytona. It’s what makes Buzz Aldrin’s out-of-this world, misplaced Speedmaster worthy of obsessio...
Worn & Wound
Ever since humans began exploring the ocean’s depths, watch companies have been creating timepieces capable of withstanding the pressures of SCUBA diving. In the 1950s and 60s, companies like Blancpain, Rolex, and Omega raced to create watches with the greatest water resistance. However, a small collaborative brand outdid them all with a watch capable of reaching a depth of 1000 meters. It took Rolex well into the next decade before they made a watch that could go beyond that. One of those collaborators was Ollech & Wajs, and the legendary timepiece was named the Caribbean 1000. Roughly thirty years later, when the internet was still in its early stages, if you were searching the web for dive watches, there’s a good chance you came across New Old Stock (NOS) Caribbean 1000 watches by Ollech & Wajs or Jenny. In its heyday, O&W; produced nearly 10,000 watches per year. There were still quite a few unused watches available, and collectors were thrilled to have access to them. Despite barely surviving the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Albert Wajs remained in charge until 2017, when the brand was sold to Charles Le Menestrel. Since then, the brand has been revived with reimagined models from the past, such as the Caribbean. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, O&W; is launching the most authentic reproduction of the original Caribbean 1000 to date, the C-1000 A. From its short, triangle-shaped lugs, affectionately referred to as ‘Vampire fangs’ by collectors, to its narrow 12...
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Fratello
This will be an article featuring some of my favorite watch brands out there. Here are a few examples of watches that, in my mind, earn their rightful place next to the Rolex “MilSub.” The so-called Rolex “MilSub” (short for Military Submariner) is a rare breed. MilSub watches don’t consist of any one reference. Rather, […] Visit Modern And Attainable “MilSubs” From CWC, Marathon, And Seiko to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Whilst many dream of owning a watch from one of the great Swiss watchmakers, the price points at retail can be discouraging for those on a budget. So where does this leave the enthusiast who wants to dip his or her toes into the world of high-end watchmaking? A little digging into lesser-known models, which we present here. We’re not just discussing the most inexpensive watches from Rolex and the “Holy Trinity”, since that’s too obvious and mundane. So instead, we bring you five watches that are not necessarily the most affordable, but amongst the best value propositions. Majority of the five presented below are ancestors of current-production models, and one is a less popular recent launch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116509, first-generation with meteorite dial Rolex is well known for dials in a variety of unique materials such as mineral stones and mother of pearl. Arguably more exotic, at least at the time of its launch, was meteorite. Whilst it’s not exactly known when the first meteorite dials were introduced by Rolex, the material has a constant in its catalogue for some two decades now. The latest meteorite additions to the line were the Daytona models of 2021, but the Daytona has in fact sported a meteorite dial before. In the early 2004 the material was combined with white gold for the first Daytona with a meteorite dial. It was available on a leather strap or a white gold bracelet, which is the version to go for. This first-generation Rolex ref. 1165...
Worn & Wound
Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37? Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...
Time+Tide
Rolex only? Or are there some even worse opinions in here? The post You revealed your sensible, and less sensible, watch collecting rules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Geneva-based Pragma is the brainchild of Christopher Wegener and Kai-Hsuan Liu. Wegener has 21 years of experience in watchmaking; he worked for Rolex and F.P.Journe, for instance. Liu is the brand’s Creative Design Director. He has a background at Hermès and a studio of his own, and his forté is fusing natural and technological elements. […] Visit Introducing The Pragma P1 – Perseverance: A 100% Swiss Chronometer Made With 82.7% Recycled Materials to read the full article.
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“Leica” looms over cameras much like Rolex does watches. It’s a name with both meaning and stigma. On one hand, it speaks to quality, provenance, tradition, and a culture of dedicated enthusiasts. Conversely, it speaks to snobbery, wealth, style over substance, and exclusivity. Being who I am, I’m always suspicious of overly adored things, especially when they are expensive, as I can’t help but keep value in mind. Over the years, I’ve avoided the red dot despite countless recommendations. They just felt like too much of a thing I didn’t want to be a part of. A brand name for people who wanted to appear to be photographers, regardless of whether or not they had any skill or even a desire to shoot. Or maybe they didn’t even care if they appeared as photographers; the camera just served as an accessory to a lifestyle. Part of a kit that said, “Yeah, I do alright,” and looked great with a vintage Sub. *Side note: I wrote this intro before Griffin Bartsch covered the new SL3, and thus, I still thought myself clever for the Rolex comparison. As I now know it’s quite banal, I feel a tinge embarrassed, and yet, it holds a true statement, so it remains. As a former art major, I’ve always felt that cameras were tools, much like my paintbrushes. They could be used to create art or to document life. They weren’t lifestyle objects; they were a medium. I only got into photography in the first place to shoot my work in grad school. And then, I had to learn more ...
Fratello
Sunday is here, and you know that means: it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! But it’s not just any showdown this week. We decided to bring out the big guns for a battle that will surely get people talking. We selected the brand-new Omega Speedmaster Professional in steel and gold for this week’s faceoff. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Omega Speedmaster Professional In Steel And Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
In this edition of Fratelli Stories, we learn more about Fratello reader Andre. He combines his passions for diving and underwater photography with his love of horology. This includes his fondness for his favorite diving companion, a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Underwater photography is a passion of mine as well. The underwater world is both enchanting and […] Visit Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving to read the full article.
Monochrome
Watches & Wonders 2024 and The Geneva Watch Week are now far behind us… But it’s the perfect time to look back, with more relaxed minds, at the best watches we’ve seen around town. These fairs are primarily bringing the spotlight on large brands, such as Rolex, the Richemont Group or LVMH. But thankfully, it […]
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning! To be more specific, it’s Easter Sunday. So grab a warm cup of coffee with a chocolate bunny, and get ready to vote. In this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we decided to revisit a battle that we have had in the past. It’s the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona against the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Vs. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Titanium to read the full article.
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Quill & Pad
The WatchCharts March 2024 watch market update discusses a potential stabilization in secondary market prices, the recent interesting dynamics of the Rolex Pepsi market, and share some of the best and worst performing brands and collections of last month.
Worn & Wound
Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point. Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...
Worn & Wound
Stop me if you’ve heard this one before: Leica is the Rolex of cameras. It’s a bit of a tired comparison, but it’s not an invalid one. They are each known for their impeccable build quality, a wonderful user experience, and for making beautiful objects. Both Rolex and Leica draw as much, if not more, attention to their vintage product as their modern, and each has a passionate and devoted fan base. And, at the end of the day, Leica and Rolex both make wonderful things. Today, we get to see a new wonderful thing from Leica; the SL3. The SL3 replaces the SL2 as Leica’s flagship full-frame, interchangeable lens mirrorless camera. At first blush, the new SL3 looks a lot like the SL2, but take a closer look and you’ll start to see major differences. Working from the outside in, the SL3 is smaller and lighter than the SL2. According to Leica, the SL3 has shed about 70g from its predecessor, and the overall dimensions of the camera have been shrunk down slightly. The SL3, despite these changes, remains weather-sealed to the IP54 standard. The SL3 also gets, for the first time in the model line, a tilt screen for its rear display, similar to the one the Q3 got last year. The 3.2” LED display has a slightly higher resolution than the display on the SL2 (2.3 million dots vs 2.1 million on the SL2) and the SL3 also comes equipped with a 5.76 million dot EyeRes EVF. The control layout of the SL3 has also seen a revision. Like with last year’s Q3, the introduction of a ti...
Monochrome
There’s certainly no shortage of simple, versatile watches that can hang at the beach and complement a suit within a 12-hour period. The legendary Rolex Oyster Perpetual and related models always come to mind, but Traska’s Commuter collection brings this stylish versatility in affordable packages. Offered in 34.5mm, 36.5mm and 38.5mm cases, there’s truly a […]
Monochrome
The watch industry and its market are in constant evolution, with new brands appearing almost daily. The distribution has to face intense volatility due to the duplication of selling channels, the increased pressure of business combinations and the recent rise of certified pre-owned (CPO), which concerns Rolex but also many more brands. A handful of […]
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SJX Watches
Jörg G. Bucherer, the third generation to run the Bucherer retail chain, passed away on Monday evening at age 87. The news was first reported by Swiss newspapers including Le Temps. His death comes less than three months after agreeing to sell his family business to Rolex in a multi-billion franc move that shocked the entire industry, but secured the future of the company. He led an extraordinary life, being one of the last remaining people to have worked directly with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, and building a reputation as a man about town. Known for his fast cars and beautiful women in his youth, he was always extremely closely guarded when it came to media appearances. Bucherer took over the business in 1977, and had been at the centre of the industry ever since. Having navigated many turbulent periods in matchmaking, he not only kept the Lucerne-based retailer afloat, but steered it to the very top, with the business now counting over 100 points of sale across Europe and America, making it the biggest seller of Rolex watches anywhere. The historic Bucherer store in Lucerne. Image – Bucherer When Bucherer took the reins from his father, the industry was in turmoil in the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis. That didn’t stop him as he expanded the company from its Swiss base into new territories such as Austria and Germany in 1980s. He would go on to acquire other retailers as he pursued expansion, including Kurz Group in 1989 and Swiss Lion in 2001. The real b...
Worn & Wound
When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...
SJX Watches
Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape. We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below. Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings. The following interview has been edited for clarity and length. Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...
Time+Tide
When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic. Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...
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