Revolution
A Deep Dive into the Grand Seiko Caliber 9SA5
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
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Revolution
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
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We do a short take review of the new hand wound mechanical Grand Seiko SBGW283 "Kishun" with a beautiful textured ice blue dial.
Time+Tide
Blasting onto the scene like a Light Cycle from Tron, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the French fashion house’s latest revolution in the world of super-luxury wristwatches. The Spin Time complication has long been a notable design among the Tambour watches from Louis Vuitton, and often forms the most exciting platform … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Skipping the light fantastic with the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Urwerk is developing an artistic design series to honor historical cultures that have related to time. The first is the UR-100V Time and Culture, which focuses on the Aztec sun stone.
Deployant
Hublot unveils the sequel to the Big Bang Integral, the brand's first watch with integrated bracelet. We take a look at the new Big Bang Integral Time Only.
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A brand new watch from Patek Philippe combining two complications - the annual calendar and travel time: the new Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G-001.
SJX Watches
Unveiled in 2020, the Grand Seiko T0 Constant-Force Tourbillon was a surprisingly complicated movement from a watchmaker that has historically focused on no-nonsense, everyday watches. In interview with us last year, Seiko chief executive Akio Naito promised not to “keep people waiting for too long” and he has kept to his promise. Just two years after the T0 concept was revealed, its commercially available counterpart version has arrived in the form of the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003. With a case that’s a mix of platinum and titanium, the SLGT003 has a movement that’s slightly different from the T0 concept. Its cal. 9ST1 retains the all-important constant-force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage, though the movement overall has been trimmed down slightly in both size and artistic expression – though it still has an aesthetic that is extreme by Grand Seiko standards. Initial thoughts The SLGT003 is a lot of watch: a skeletonised movement combining a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism accompanied by a dead-beat seconds. And it also has twin barrels and a power reserve indicator. The SLGT003 is intriguing and impressive is to say the least. The amalgamation of several complications perfectly showcase the brand’s newfound prowess in complicated watchmaking, elevating the brand to another level entirely, one comparable with independent watchmakers. And it also marks a milestone for a watchmaker from Asia. But the design is over th...
Revolution
Grand Seiko’s Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon represents a stunning mechanical achievement that sees the constant force mechanism integrated into the tourbillon cage.
Revolution
For a deep dive into Grand Seiko’s evolution and philosophy, click here.
Deployant
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection expands with 5 new sports watches - two Spring Drive GMT references, two Spring Drive Chronographs and a Diver.
Revolution
Longines introduces a rugged multi-time zone watch in time for the resumption of “travel as usual”.
Time+Tide
The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sticking to a tried-and-tested formula, Seiko has united a trio of its bestselling dive watches into a thematic collection. This year’s offering is the Prospex Save the Ocean Special Editions, a trio of dive watches (the refs. SPB297, SPB299, and SPB301) featuring textured dials modelled on the surface of polar ice. As with past Save the Ocean editions, part of the proceeds from the sale of the new models will be donated to ocean conservation organisations. Initial thoughts Easy to like because of their vintage-inspired style and affordability, Seiko’s “Modern Re-interpretation” dive watches have just gotten better with the new trio, thanks to interesting, textured dials in pleasing colours. Even amongst the countless iterations of the same models, the new arrivals still manage to distinguish themselves, especially the models in light blue and white, both uncommon colours for dive watches. Interestingly, the new watches might look identical to past versions save for the dials, but they are not. All three feature steel cases that have a “super-hard coating”, which was absent in earlier models, explaining why the new models cost more than last year’s military-style special editions. While Seiko’s schedule of frequent new launches are a little tedious to keep up with, the proliferation of such watches is probably justified, simply because they are mass produced and affordable, making them easily accessible for almost anyone. As such, new versions in co...
Revolution
Wei Koh and Editor-at-large for Revolution & The Rake, Eléanor Picciotto tell us why the new Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the perfect watch for hitting the dance floor with and drinking luminous bottles of Dom Pérignon at the club.
SJX Watches
A surprising combination of mechanics and electronics, the Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum is the latest watch to emerge from La Fabrique du Temps, the manufacture acquired by luxury giant in 2011. The Quantum is a new take on the brand’s signature complication – a hidden LED ring lights up the 12 cubes of the jumping hours. Initial thoughts The Spin Time is an original and distinctive concept that doesn’t get recognition it should, largely due to the fact that Louis Vuitton is all about fashion and leather goods. And the complication took more than a decade to mature into what it is. The Spin Time was launched in 2009 as a regatta countdown, which wasn’t especially interesting (while also being expensive at the time). It was only with the Spin Time Air that the complication became truly noteworthy, but the length of time required to get there meant some momentum was lost. I like the complication, though it is also hindered by the modest base movement (more on that below). Basically a Spin Time Air with a dose of levity, the Quantum doesn’t take itself too seriously, but preserves all the mechanics of the Spin Time complication. It’s a smart take on the light-up mechanical watch, the first one that manages a long-lasting bright light. Though the aesthetic is largely two colours, it is a loud design, especially with the oversized “LV” on the dial. But that is exactly the point, and I do like the over the top nature of many of Louis Vuitton’s ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University in the US and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Over the last five years or so, the luxury watch auction market seems to have grown more and more inaccessible for many collectors. Economist Stephen … ContinuedThe post Disillusioned with the prices at auctions? Check out this full set of Seiko “Monaco” chronographs on this novel auction site appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The 2nd collaboration between Seiko 5 Sports x Brian May, now comes with a gold coloured case. Limited Edition of 12,500 pieces, and a new lower (!) price.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...
SJX Watches
Introduced just over a year ago, the King Seiko KSK “44KS” Re-creation SJE083 was the surprise comeback of the King Seiko label that had been dormant for decades. Though it was a limited edition, the SJE083 hinted at the possibility of King Seiko returning as a regular production offering. Perhaps quicker than expected, that has happened with the introduction of the King Seiko. A single model that’s in four variants, the new King Seiko is effectively vintage in both size and style, being modelled on the original KSK of 1965. The original King Seiko KSK of 1965 Initial thoughts Sitting in between Grand Seiko and the Seiko Presage in both price and positioning, King Seiko is the brand’s affordable entry into vintage-inspired design – while incorporating Grand Seiko vibes – with its sharply faceted case and, for the first time, a bracelet. The bracelet gives the new King Seiko something of an integrated-bracelet feel, which puts it in competition with more modern offerings, including the Citizen Series 8. But the new King Seiko stands out for its old-school design that’s faithful to the original. The strict adherence to historical design is the norm for Seiko remakes, although most of the brand’s remakes have been limited editions. Because King Seiko a regular production offering, it is far more accessible, both in terms of price and availability. It does away with the date, unlike the earlier SJE083 The only possible drawback is repositioning of King Seiko,...
Time+Tide
With Hublot, the most intimidating barrier for me was often the larger sizing their references were typically produced in. Hublot, unapologetically, favours larger diameters as the canvas for their bold personality and mastery of materials. Personally, I felt excluded from the party at times, liking the brand’s novelties but not being prepared to tackle their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Time Only brings 40mm to titanium, ceramic and 18K yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Hublot’s Big Bang made a splash with a metal bracelet in 2020; now it evolves further by getting a time-only version in a smaller case.
SJX Watches
Though it was two years ago as the Grand Seiko’s flagship Spring Drive movement, the 9RA5 still feels new, simply because the latest-generation movement hasn’t found its way into many watches, save for a pair of limited editions. Now it finally makes it into a regular-production model, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SLGA009 “White Birch”. The latest Spring Drive, like the mechanical SLGH005, is inspired by the tree of the same name that’s native to the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi. Initial thoughts The SLGH009 “White Birch” clearly becomes the Grand Seiko’s showcase Spring Drive – it resembles the previous generation’s bestseller, the famous “Snowflake”, but is substantially upgraded in terms of features and finish. The combination of familiar styling and improved quality makes it attractive. Part of the appeal lies in the 9RA5 movement, which on the surface seems like a mere upgrade over the predecessor 9R65. But it is more than just the power reserve being increased to five days, and the new calibre boasts an entirely new architecture, including both a new gear train and integrated circuit for the Spring Drive regulator, as well as a better finishing. The other aspect of its appeal lies in the design, which has dubbed “Evolution 9”. As always is the case with Grand Seiko, Evolution 9 is inspired by vintage Grand Seiko models, but brings with it a sense of solidity and refinement, thanks to the flatter case, heftier bracelet, a...
Revolution
The wintry beauty of a birch forest is captured in an art installation collaboration between Grand Seiko and interdisciplinary design studio BCXSY.
Revolution
The physical environs around which Grand Seiko watches are made is a gift that doesn’t stop giving, now expressed in the SBGH287 “Snow on the Blue Lake”.
Time+Tide
We all have a watch brand that we love. A brand that brings something to the table we can’t ignore. Whether it be their finishing or their language of design, we’re captivated by what they’re able to create. For me, that brand has always been Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve marvelled at their movements and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Grand Seiko SBGW275, released mid 2021, pioneered a direct online sales strategy by the Japanese brand. We examine this strategy and review the watch.
Deployant
Seven years after its initial debut, Patek Philippe introduces a new variant of the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5990 in rose gold.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Today, my brother-in-law, Pete, is doing a 24-hour bike ride to raise money and support of families affected by stillbirth and SIDS. The really crazy bit – he’s doing the entire 500km ride on a stationary bike in his garage (you can sponsor the heroic bastard right here). Anyway figuring he could probably do with a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How Arnold Schwarzenegger made the Seiko H558-5000 the ultimate tough-guy watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...
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Grand Seiko introduces two mechanical creations with a GMT in the Grand Seiko Sport Collection - in two dials, inspired by the wilderness and the open sea.
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