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Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time” SJX Watches
Dec 20, 2023

Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time”

One of the most talked-about sales at last month’s Geneva auction season was Passion for Time at Christie’s, the dispersal of a collection belonging to Mohammed Zaman, an Omani businessman. The auction started almost an hour late with new estimates revised upwards, and majority of the lots sold to a third-party guarantor at the new low estimates. The guarantees and new estimates were announced by the auctioneer just before the start of the sale, as they should be, though it did little to dispel the confusion in the room. The proceedings immediately set off a frenzy online, some of it alleging misdeeds on the part of Christie’s. Most of it was unschooled speculation. Perhaps swayed by this, Mr Zaman quickly filed a lawsuit against Christie’s, leading to the watches being frozen. Two weeks on, the lawsuit has been withdrawn and Mr Zaman has resolved his dispute with Christie’s – a shrewd move in my opinion because he did well out of the sale. The 113 lots belonging to Mr Zaman achieved just under CHF38 million including fees – a result worthy of a standing ovation in the current market. Proof of the sale’s success was found two weeks later at the Hong Kong sales where prices were notably weaker than the results at Passion for Time, a testimony to the current market. The top lot at Passion for Time, the Philippe Dufour Grand Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 that sold for CHF5.13 million including fees All’s well that ends well According to people familiar with the ...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer Worn & Wound
Dec 5, 2023

Hands On: the Jack Mason Strat-o-timer and Hydrotimer

I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Worn & Wound
Nomos Glashütte Tangente When most Nov 23, 2023

Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente

When most people hear the phrase ‘professional musician,’ their brains conjure images of bright lights, big stages, and screaming crowds. But the reality of how your favorite songs came to be and how your next favorite song will reach your ears is decidedly more complicated and interesting than that. We explore ‘variations on a theme’ with guitarist Tom Laskey and a trio of NOMOS Glashütte Tangentes, each expressing a slightly different riff on the same playful, yet purposeful melody. To deliver a hit, a group of talented, hardworking musicians spend countless hours in dimly lit studios experimenting and iterating, bringing all of their knowledge and skills to the table over and over again, finally discovering the right combination of elements. And it’s this spirit of repetition and reinvention that somehow distills every song you’ve ever heard out of the same basic elements, surprising and moving you anew each time. It’s not unlike the art of watchmaking. The post Enthusiast Spotlight: Exploring the Never-ending Allure of Music and Time with Guitarist Tom Laskey and the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration Worn & Wound
Zenith Nov 17, 2023

[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration

Zenith has teamed up with our friends at Time & Tide for a second time to release a new Defy Skyline dubbed the Night Surfer 2. The theme began with the Defy Classic in the original Night Surfer released in 2021, playing with black and blue tones around the openworked dial and case. The Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the outgoing Classic, a move we may not be entirely comfortable with just yet, but the Night Surfer colorway works equally well here with the redesigned dial and frantic running seconds hand at 6 o’clock. This is a watch we’ve looked at in-depth in both its closed dial, and open dial forms, and this might be the biggest personality we’ve seen from this watch to date.  Night Surfer 1 at right, Night Surfer 2 at left We see plenty of blue dials in the watch world and I’d count this as one of the more interesting executions. Like the original, the new four-pointed star structure that comprises the center of the dial is treated to a dynamic application of blue that is darker toward the top, and lighter toward the bottom, with the center of the bridge structure bifurcated by a white line creating a sharp contrast to the deep blues underneath. It’s a visually striking dial as a whole that’s framed by the uniformly finished matte titanium case and bracelet. The 41mm case is angular, without a curve in sight. It’s aggressive in a way, but the dark finish it’s received here means it doesn’t interfere with the dial. It’s the same story with the brac...