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Louis Erard Partners with Stefan Kudoke for their Latest Le Regulateur Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Partners Sep 5, 2024

Louis Erard Partners with Stefan Kudoke for their Latest Le Regulateur Limited Edition

Louis Erard continues their ongoing series of collaborations with important independent watchmakers via their Le Regulateur collection with a new group of limited editions made in collaboration with Stefan Kudoke. Kudoke is a German watchmaker who has gained a great deal of acclaim in recent years for his beautifully simple timepieces that tend to feature simple dials with subtle textures and elaborately engraved movements. The Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 references are seen by many connoisseurs as modern classics, and like all of Stefan’s watches they have immediately recognizable motifs that make them distinctly “Kudoke.” These Louis Erard limited editions borrow just the right amount of these design elements to make them easily identifiable as being made in partnership with Kudoke, but probably only to the most serious watch nerds. Compared to previous limited editions with watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Alain Silberstein, the Kudoke watches feel considerably more under the radar and less flashy, which is fitting given the general aesthetic Kudoke is known for.  The Le Regulateur concept feels like a natural for a collaboration with Kudoke because so much of his work is based in a certain kind of precision that is part and parcel with traditional German watchmaking. For example, Kudoke’s watches tend to feature meticulously finished nameplates, chapter rings, which are represented on these watches in the dual signatures on each dial, as well as the railway t...

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours SJX Watches
Blancpain have established Sep 3, 2024

Longines’ Retro Legend Diver 39 mm in Modern Colours

For the 65th of its trademark vintage dive watch of the 1960s, Longines is giving the modern remake a set of new colours. The new Legend Diver is essentially extensions of last year’s release, retaining the double-crown case in the smaller 39 mm size and gaining new dial colours in green, terracotta, or anthracite grey. The model is equipped with a “grains-of-rice” stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment feature. Initial thoughts While many brands, namely Rolex and Blancpain, have established a familiar template for the dive watch, Longines has its a distinct design with the Legend Diver that has its characteristic Super Compressor case with two crowns and internal bezel. The design isn’t unique to Longines but the brand has arguably been most successful with it in the modern day And compared to other Super Compressor-style divers in this price range, the Legend Diver has the advantage of a higher-spec movement in the form of the COSC-certified L888.6 with 72 hours of power reserve. This makes the Legend Diver an appealing and affordable watch that’s priced at US$3,400. Lacquered colours The highlight of the release are the lacquered dial in green, terracotta and anthracite grey. The colour extends to the rotating bi-directional bezel designed for measuring dive time. The bezel can be rotated utilising the screw-in crown at two o’clock. The dial layout is symmetrical with no date, and features elongated indices and raised Arabic numerals coated with Su...

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Aug 30, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Métiers d’Art Chinese Zodiac “Snake”

Having released Chinese Zodiac editions annually for the past 12 years, Vacheron Constantin presents the Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac “Year of the Snake”. The serpent is the sixth Chinese zodiac sign for the upcoming year that begins with the Chinese New Year on January 29, 2025. Available in pink gold or platinum, the new zodiac edition illustrates the brand’s metiers d’art expertise with hand-engraving and enamelling on a dial that depicts a cobra. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin has developed a niche with its Métiers d’Art offerings, some of which, like the Wind God and Thunder God pair of repeaters, are exceptional. The Zodiac series is more accessible than the repeaters, but still relies on Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre with a unique display that indicates the time and calendar in windows, leaving the dial free for artisanal decoration. The quality of work on the dial is high, although the snake is not a universally loved creature, unlike say the dragon, which will limit the appeal of this particular edition. The king of snakes The snake edition employs the same case as last zodiac models, which measures 40 mm in diameter and 12.72 mm in thickness. The movement also remains the same cal. 2460 G4 with a window-based display. Instead of traditional hands, the watch displays the time, date, and day of the week through four windows on the dial. The apertures at 11 and one o’clock indicate the hours and minutes, whereas tho...

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Aug 27, 2024

Introducing - The Parmigiani Fleurier x PRJKT8 Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier and Bahraini partner PRJKT8 present a special edition Tonda PF Skeleton. Limited to just 8 examples, the exclusive timepiece features flamed graphite blue indices that offer a striking contrast to the masterfully crafted, graphite-coloured openworked dial.  Based on one of the most appealing models within the now classic Tonda PF collection, the brand’s […]

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan” SJX Watches
Zodiac Aug 14, 2024

Kudoke Introduces the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”

Kudoke has just unveiled an iteration of its signature day-night wristwatch, the Kudoke 2 Indigo “Isetan”, a limited edition of just 15 watches for the upscale department store Isetan, the Japanese equivalent of Selfridges or Galeries Lafayette. The new Kudoke 2 is part of the “Indigo” series of timepieces by independent watchmakers with blue dials that pay homage to the traditional Japanese fabric dyeing technique. It retains the familiar Kudoke 2 dial with the hand-engraved day-night indicator at 12 o’clock, but with a vertically-brushed, dark blue finish. Initial thoughts Best known for its value-minded watches with hand-engraved decoration, the German independent sticks to what it does best with the Indigo edition. The blue-and-gold palette works well, with the rhodium-plated elements, namely the hands, logo plaque, and chapter rings complementing the colour. It is an excellent example of the affordable watchmaking with artisanal touches that’s central to Kudoke’s philosophy (and was also the base for our own 2021 Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”). That said, this is one of several variations of the model that different only in dial colour. The many colour versions make the limited-edition concept less interesting in itself, though the Indigo is striking and one of the most appealing of the versions. Priced at JPY1.98 million, or about US$13,500, the Kudoke 2 Indigo is the typical Kudoke value proposition with features rare at this price point. Besides being small-...

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade SJX Watches
Voutilainen or Akrivia but Aug 13, 2024

The Andersen Genève Jumping Hours in Minimalist Black Jade

The Jumping Hours Black Jade Stone is Andersen Genève’s new take on its minimalist, digital hour timepiece. Retaining the same specifications, it once against uses the wide expanse of the dial for visual effect. The dial is a large, seamless piece of black jade just 0.4 mm thick that’s been lapped to a perfectly flat, mirrored finish. The glossy black dial is unadorned save for the hour display 12 o’clock, along with a pink gold minute hand matched with pink gold-powder printing. Initial thoughts Bringing to mind vintage jump hour pocket watches with its clean dial, the Andersen Jumping Hours is a perfect canvas for dial decoration given the available space. Even though it looks plain at a distance, the black jade dial is striking in its colour and simplicity, while also revealing the natural grain up close. The time display, however, is unconventional. While the hours are easy to read, the minute register at six is easily and often mistaken for the seconds. Though I can understand the design-driven purpose of the minute sub-dial, I would have done it another way to make reading of the time more intuitive. The quality of work is typical Andersen, which is artisanal and visibly so. It doesn’t have the perfect execution found in a Voutilainen or Akrivia but is done well. The price is commensurate with the quality – at about US$59,000 is more or less mid-range amongst high-end independent watchmakers. Time only in black jade One of the pioneering independent watchm...

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969 WatchAdvice
Grand Seiko Aug 10, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With The Limited Edition King Seiko KS1969

The King Seiko KS1969 Limited Edition is a timeless tribute to Seiko’s heritage, reimagined for the modern era. What We Love: Like current Seiko models, this latest King Seiko gets a modern slimmed-down reinterpretation. The multiple polished finishes from the case, bezel, and dial elements to the bracelet! The greenish-blue colour combined with the dragon-scale pattern makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Not everyone may agree with the choice of dial colours for this collection from Seiko The movement needs to match the build quality and high level of finishing on the timepiece. It would’ve been great to get the date wheel to colour-match the new dial colours! Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In July this year, Seiko unveiled a new series of King Seiko dress watches to revive a classic heritage design. Before we get into this latest creation, we first need to look at King Seiko and some of the signature designs that came with it. The name of King Seiko is just as important to Japanese watchmakers as the name and brand of Grand Seiko. The story goes that King Seiko was first launched in 1961 alongside Grand Seiko, who were direct competitors of each other. Seiko did this because of the brand’s relentless pursuit of perfection and quality, as the rivalry between King Seiko and Grand Seiko would produce some exceptional timepieces. The 1960s were seen as the golden era for Seiko, as the brand quickly...

G-SHOCK Introduces the Two-Tone Utility Color Series Worn & Wound
Ming across my inbox I Aug 5, 2024

G-SHOCK Introduces the Two-Tone Utility Color Series

Whenever I see the words “two-tone” come screaming across my inbox I wince just a little bit. I feel like for as long as I’ve been interested in watches, people have been trying to tell me that two-tone is coming back. Sometimes I’ve wondered if there are people in the industry whose entire job is to publicly speculate on the status of two-tone among the larger watch collecting set. I tend to think that there’s so much conversation about whether or not it’s coming back, nobody would even notice if it arrived. So that’s the headspace I was in when I glanced at the latest press release from G-SHOCK, which heralded the arrival of the Two-Tone Utility Color Series.  It turns out that these watches aren’t really what you’d normally think of in a two-tone conversation. They are quite literally multi-toned, meaning they incorporate both the traditional black resin cases found across the G-SHOCK line with brown integrated straps (with dial accents in complementary shades of green and yellow, for the most part). So two-tone, in your grandpa’s Datejust sense of the term, is a misnomer here. Digging further into the press release, though, I found another buzzword heard less often in the watch community: “Gorpcore”.  Just for the hell of it, I decided to apply some statistical analysis here to see if gorpcore in the watch world is something I’ve simply missed out on. I searched for the term in my email, and retrieved exactly two hits. The first, of course, ...

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko we’ve been lusting over Aug 3, 2024

The Watch I Didn’t Buy: Crossing Financial Thresholds

Watch budgeting is a funny thing. For most collectors, it involves a significant amount of mental gymnastics as money is moved in and out of an imaginary bank. We say things like “sorry, no funds in the watch bank” when our friends are selling a watch we don’t want to buy. But when Jomashop is offering a deal on that Seiko we’ve been lusting over, funds are magically ready for immediate withdrawal. Sometimes this is because we’ve recently sold some watches and actually have a positive balance in the watch bank. But often, we buy that new Seiko on “credit” with a self-promise to liquidate the current collection to restore financial balance.

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai” WatchAdvice
Seiko s Prospex 4R Diver Aug 2, 2024

REVIEW: Hands-On With Seiko’s Prospex 4R Diver Black “Shog-Urai”

We examine Seiko’s latest rendition of its iconic “Samurai” and “Shogun” models in this in-depth hands-on review. What We Love: Slimmed-down design of the previous Samurai/Shogun timepieces The hour indices and hands are much more appealing design The all-black look makes the dial pop! What We Don’t: Unique dial design can take getting used to for non-enthusiasts The movement seems outdated for this latest 2024 offering Power reserve is sub-par for a timepiece of this calibre. Overall Rating: 8.8/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Seiko’s latest Prospex Diver collection, an update to the 4R Diver models, was released only a few short months ago. The Japanese watchmaker released three timepieces of this signature model, with colours varying from burgundy red (SRPL11) to black on steel (SRPL13) and black-coated (SRPL15). This year is also the 20th anniversary of the very first timepiece this new model references, celebrating a long yet somewhat turbulent history. The latest Seiko Prospex 4R Diver has a much more “sleek” design, having been slimmed down from previous versions. You might be wondering by now how this timepiece gets the “Shog-Urai” nickname! Well, we have to retrace back some steps to Seiko’s previous Prospex Divers models, which were named Samurai and Shogun. While this wasn’t Seiko’s official nickname for these timepieces upon their release, it’s the Seiko enthusiast who has graced ...

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jul 25, 2024

Editorial: LVMH and Rolex Vying for Formula 1

Rumours started earlier this month that Rolex had “lost” its prime status as official timekeeper for Formula 1 to TAG Heuer. That, as it turns out, is not true – yet. According to a senior LVMH executive speaking off the record, a deal between F1 and the French luxury group – and not just one of its constituent brands – is close but not yet a done deal. This was also echoed by Jean-Jacques Guiony, LVMH chief financial officer, during a conference call with analysts to present the group’s second quarter financial results. In fact, any announcement of LVMH closing the deal will likely come after the Paris 2024 Olympics that counts LVMH as one of its lead sponsors. The situation is more than just Rolex “losing” the sponsorship to TAG Heuer. It’s not about the financial resources of Rolex, which for all intents and purposes are limitless, but about the breadth and depth of the LVMH portfolio, as well as Rolex’s growing emphasis on conservation as a key part of its brand. Three elements are crucial in understanding the sponsorship deal with F1, which is enjoying a revival in popularity with its hit Netflix series Formula 1: Drive to Survive and new race locations like the Miami Grand Prix. The first is the matching clause that is common in such deals and will inevitably be part of the F1 sponsorship contract. This gives Rolex a matching right – it has the right to match a competing offer for the same sponsorship. In other words, if Rolex wanted to, it can...

Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega s CK 859 Jul 25, 2024

Omega’s CK 859 in Bronze Gold for the Paris 2024 Olympics

A timepiece that pays tribute to the medals of the Olympic Games, the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a riff on the vintage-inspired CK 859. It retains the same dimensions and design, but manages to incorporate all three medal materials – gold, silver, and bronze. The case is a bronze-gold alloy, while the dial is sterling silver with Clous de Paris guilloche. Initial thoughts Among the countless Olympic-themed watches – Omega launched its first 2024 Olympics watch over a year ago – the Bronze Gold Edition stands out for its unique use of materials. It’s a thoughtfully designed watch that celebrates Omega’s status as the timekeeper of Paris 2024. With no Olympics branding or emblems on the front, it’s not obviously an Olympics watch, but smartly captures the Olympic ideal by utilising the three alloys in the case and dial. At the same time, the Bronze Gold Edition is more visually interesting than the CK 859 that had a simple grained dial that was arguably too plain for the relatively wide dial. Priced at US$12,000, the Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a good value proposition. Though not novel, the vintage-inspired design is appealing and made more interesting with the guilloche silver dial. And as Olympics editions go, this one is subtle in terms of design yet entirely apt in terms of concept. A special gold alloy The model gets its name from Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold, an alloy launched in 2022 with the Seamaster 300 that is actually low-cara...

Review: the Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte Worn & Wound
Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte I’ve never Jul 22, 2024

Review: the Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte

I’ve never been to Venice, so I’m ill equipped to comment on how accurate the representation of St. Mark’s Square is on the dial of the new Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte, perhaps the brand’s most ambitious watch to date. What I am prepared to say, however, is that the new watch is impressive, charming, and full of little surprising details. And while it’s ultimately not a watch I’d personally wear day to day, it’s full of individual elements that I really love, and I’ve come away from it genuinely impressed at what Venezianico is capable of producing at what frankly feels like a made up price point. The fact that this watch comes in at under $1,000 is honestly kind of insane.  Let’s back up a bit, though, because Venezianico is a brand that’s still new enough and small enough that they might require an old-fashioned introduction before we get to the watch at hand. As you may have guessed, Venezianico is an Italian brand, founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017. They have a varied collection that includes watches across sport and dress categories, but they’re tied together by design elements inspired by the city of Venice, filtered through a modern design sensibility with little touches of classicism thrown in. The brand prides itself on its engineering acumen and has experimented quite liberally with materials, finding interesting uses for forged carbon, tungsten, mother-of-pearl, and aventurine in watches where you wouldn’t n...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide Jul 19, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Guide

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of those historical, influential timepieces that has been occasionally imitated but never really equaled in its appeal. Tracing its origins back nearly a hundred years, It is the most prominent and enduring example of Art Deco design in the 21st Century watch world and one of the first and most successful examples of a tool watch that transcended its utilitarian origins to become a stylish and indisputably unisex fashion accessory. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the Reverso and how it has maintained its iconic status in a century of shifting trends and industry headwinds. Foundations: Jaeger Meets LeCoultre Antoine LeCoultre Today a watchmaking house renowned for both its high-luxury pedigree and a high-horology acumen nearly unmatched in the industry, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the humblest of beginnings. In 1833 Antoine LeCoultre (1803 - 1881), descendant of farmers and blacksmiths, started making timepieces in his family’s small barn in Le Sentier in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Learning metallurgy from his father at the family forge, LeCoultre developed an early interest in watchmaking and proved to be an influential innovator of his era. His so-called “millionomètre,” completed in 1844, had a profound impact on the precise manufacture of watch parts as it was the first instrument able to measure 1/1000ths of a millimeter, aka microns. At the 1851 Great Exhibition in London’s Hyde Park, LeCoultre was awa...

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jul 19, 2024

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley”

Named after its silver, textured dial, the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ277 “Snow Valley” is a variant of the longstanding Sport Collection GMT with a sapphire-covered 24-hour bezel. It’s in two-tone green and white inspired by the area around Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi at the end of winter, where the mountain is covered in lush greenery but topped by white snow. In typical Grand Seiko style, the steel case is finished with zaratsu flat polishing. It is equipped with a high-frequency cal. 9S86 running at 5 Hz that is a “true” GMT movement with an independently adjustable local time hour hand. The silvery white texture depicts snow on the ground in the mountain. Initial thoughts Grand Seiko often turns to nature for its dial colours and patterns, with many of its timepieces are named after elements of the nature world, the Spring Drive “Pink Snowflake”. In the case of the SBGJ277, it’s not just the dial, but also the green-and-silver livery of the watch that is “Snow Valley”. Grand Seiko rolls out such model variants and limited editions frequently, too often sometimes, but its offerings remain good value. This also applies to the SBGJ277, which is priced at US$6,800. It is a practical watch with an in-house movement and a genuine GMT function, along with a high level of fit and finish on almost every element; arguably only the bracelet needs to be upgraded, with a micro-adjustment clasp for instance. Featuring an offset crown at four o’clock ...

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches? Worn & Wound
Rolex Pepsi” GMT Jul 17, 2024

Armitron’s First Major Rebrand in 50 Years: Beyond Fashion Watches?

Regardless of what’s in your collection now, we all had a piece that acted as a gateway drug – the one that first sunk the horology hook in. Maybe your fondest early wristwatch memories are illuminated in Timex Indiglo? Perhaps they take the shape of a Casio G-SHOCK? Could it have been an analog Armitron with one of the Looney Toons characters on the dial? Maybe your dad bought you a bogus Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on Canal Street and threw it on a rubber strap so you could wear it as a 7 year old, and maybe someone stole it out of your duffle bag at Tae Kwon Do and you’re still not fully over the loss at 37?  Most of the manufacturers that helped us originally fall in love with wristwatches have found creative ways to grow with us and to evolve as watch collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Timex currently boasts a respectable line of vintage-inspired, entry level watches – including a few collaborative pieces with Worn & Wound that we, of course, think are fantastic. G-SHOCK has managed to stay exceptionally relevant via hyped celebrity collabs with the likes of John Mayer and Ed Sheeran. As for Armitron, they’ve maintained a comfortable station as a producer of affordable fashion watches that are generally sold at big box stores, and while their line has consistently included a few playful heritage pieces that hint at the potential for more, they’ve never really been a part of the conversation for enthusiasts. However, that might be changing as Armitron h...

Introducing - The Andersen Genève x BCHH Celestial Voyager “Sunset over Cappadocia” Version 2 Monochrome
Andersen Genève Jul 8, 2024

Introducing - The Andersen Genève x BCHH Celestial Voyager “Sunset over Cappadocia” Version 2

Longtime Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee had a dream of creating beautiful, high-end watches. To manifest his vision, he created the BCHH (Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie) brand and reached out to master watchmaker Svend Andersen of Andersen Genève to create the Celestial Voyager, a sophisticated world timer with a handcrafted enamel dial. Following the sold-out success […]

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager Worn & Wound
Monta Jul 5, 2024

Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager

Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone.  The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble.  The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment SJX Watches
Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets Jul 3, 2024

The Ressence Type 5 Diver Gets the Full Lume Treatment

Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction. Initial thoughts Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner. The Type 5 L underwater The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model. As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey. The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light Oil-filled dial In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high....

Hands-On Video Review: The Archimede Pilot 39 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ming about some Jul 1, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: The Archimede Pilot 39

The Type A dial, Flieger-style pilot's watch has been something I've coveted since diving deep into the watch collecting hobby. If I'm not dreaming about some of the prohibitively priced stuff out there, I often think of some of the best affordable options if I were to make this kind of addition to the collection. A few names come to mind, but I've had a soft spot for Archimede since meeting them in San Francisco one year and photographing one of the coolest Archimede watches ever. As the in-house watch brand of the Ickler case company in Germany, Archimede produces some of the most well-crafted and affordable timepieces in this space while remaining family-owned. Today, we're looking at the Archimede Pilot 39, one of their most popular models, and a watch that I'm sad to say goodbye to after experiencing it on loan from Archimede.

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Jun 28, 2024

Hublot Unveils the Clean, Monochromatic Classic Fusion Essential Grey

Hublot just unveiled the third instalment of Essential Grey, a series of watches dressed in a cool monochrome. The latest addition is the Classic Fusion Essential Grey that’s available in two sizes of 42 mm and 45 mm. It’s a low-key look that sports a sun ray-brushed grey dial and titanium case. As is convention for Essential Grey, the pair are available only online. The case sports the iconic porthole-shaped bezel Initial thoughts While earlier Essential Grey models were chronographs, the new pair are simply, time-and-date watches. Despite being monochromatic, the Essential Grey chronographs looked busy. The Classic Fusion, on the other hand, is a perfect match for the monochromatic palette. The design is as clean as a Hublot can be, which complements the colour scheme well. Already a wearable watch in itself, the Classic Fusion in this restrained styling is made even more wearable. The only weakness of the watch is the price. At US$8,500, the Classic Fusion Essential Grey is amongst the most affordable Hublot models, but it costs that much despite the basic Sellita SW300 movement inside. The SW300 is a strong performer but inexpensive and usually found in correspondingly inexpensive watches. I know that Hublot is working on a workhorse in-house calibre to take the place of the SW300, but until then the price is stiff. Porthole The Classic Fusion Essential Grey is available in 42 mm and 45 mm variants, with both identical save for the case dimensions. The 42 mm versio...

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Longines Conquest 38mm Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Conquest 38mm Review Longines Jun 19, 2024

Longines Conquest 38mm Review

Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few.  In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...

Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm SJX Watches
Oris Streamlines Jun 19, 2024

Oris Streamlines the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm

Oris has tweaked its popular dive watch resulting in the Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38 mm. The latest creation from the Holstein-based manufacturer gently reworks the original design, including shrinking the case to 38 mm and removing the date window while retaining the in-house movement. The cleaner look is matched with a green dial with a gradient finish that fades from metallic green to black on the dial’s periphery. Initial thoughts The Divers Sixty-Five is Oris’ bestseller and has been an experimental playground for the brand to iterate case sizes, materials, and dial colours, including a steel-and-bronze version Chinese watch magazine Ctime. The new 38 mm version illustrates this. Although it doesn’t look strikingly different from its predecessors at first glance, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the culmination the progressive development of the model. It combines the in-house Calibre 400 and 38 mm case size, along with the removal of the date window that watch enthusiasts will applaud. The green sunburst dial pops While the vintage-inspired aesthetic is somewhat generic (and green a common colour for dive watches), the new Divers Sixty-Five is a decent value proposition at US$3,900, especially considering the in-house automatic movement with an unusually long five-day power reserve. Vivid green Unlike past 38 mm models that were equipped with Sellita movements, the new Divers Sixty-Five is the first 38 mm model in the line to feature the brand’s proprietary ...