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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking SJX Watches
Jan 3, 2022

A Family Heirloom and the Legacy of American Watchmaking

This is the story of a man, my great grandfather Dominik “Dinko” Bakuk Kovacevic, his Waltham pocket watch, and the legacy of the American watch industry. Though he died before I was born, Dinko is a significant figure in my life because I was given my middle name, Dominic, in his honor. Dinko was born in 1875 in Stari Grad on the island of Hvar on the Dalmation coast of what is now Croatia, but was then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a young man, Dinko joined the short-lived Austro-Hungarian Navy and quickly rose through the ranks to become an officer. My great grandparents, Dominik and Aloisia Kovacevic, on their wedding day in 1908 Following his military service, at the age of 27, he set sail from the French port of Le Havre for New York City, aboard the SS La Lorraine. He arrived on Ellis Island in New York Harbor on August 16, 1902. He was joined by his fiancee Aloisia six years later, and they were married a few days after her arrival in the US in 1908. The SS La Lorraine, the ship that brought Dinko to the United States in 1902. Image – Library of Congress After his arrival in the US, Dinko moved west, like many entrepreneurial immigrants of his generation. By 1920, he was the proprietor of a grocery store in Tonopah, Nevada, before eventually settling near Berkeley, California where my mother’s family still lives. Dinko passed away in 1953, by which time he was affectionately known within the family as “Grandpa Old Man.” My great grandmother, ...

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2022

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Are watches really gaining in popularity?  The answer may seem obvious.  Auction houses and certain watch designs are setting all kinds of records.  Wait lists for hype timepieces … ContinuedThe post Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2021 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 6119 Dec 31, 2021

Year in Review: Our Best Stories of 2021

Twenty-twenty one was a landmark year in watch collecting just because it was so unusual (which applies to the rest of the world as well). And it so happens that it was also the 10th year of the site, an occasion we marked with our maiden SJX editions, which were created in collaboration with Habring² and Kudoke. Over the decade we have done what we like best – with tweaks and refinements along the way – which is comprehensive stories on watches or topics that matter or are merely interesting. We published almost two stories of this type each week throughout 2021. We’ve narrowed down the list of memorable stories to a few that we think are especially worth revisiting for their insight or through provoking nature. Enjoy the read (which might take awhile so find a comfortable spot). And the photos were pretty good too Technical deep-dives The best of the year’s reviews were detailed than ever, going beyond close-up photos to include illustrations that explain intriguing mechanics. One such story was the in-depth examination of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS written by Richard Lee and SJX, which details how the watch pursues chronometry with a traditional chain and fusee, but with a modern twist of complex going trains. The tourbillon within the FB RS We repeat the exercise with the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6119, an elegant watch that’s once again focused on chronometry, thanks to a movement constructed to delivery maximum energy with minimum thickness. Expla...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 Dec 19, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS

Limited editions have become a hot-button issue in the watch world, particularly in the past couple years and most people would agree that some of the best new references have come in the form of these unique releases. For this edition, Grand Seiko wanted to celebrate 55 years of their famed (and beloved) 44GS case. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT SBGJ255 celebrates 55 Years of the 44GS appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Dec 19, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph

Born in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is known for being the original luxury stainless-steel sports watch. The line has since grown and evolved, with multiple collections making up the Royal Oak name. The Offshore was developed to speak to the modern consumer, who at the time of its launch was skewing towards larger … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Deployant
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Dec 18, 2021

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph

The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Lance Armstrong Skeleton “Daytona” SJX Watches
Rolex Daytona ref 116520 Dec 17, 2021

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Lance Armstrong Skeleton “Daytona”

Known for customised watches created for celebrity athletes, Artisans de Genève (ADG) has just revealed its latest project, the Armstrong. Based on a Rolex Daytona ref. 116520, the watch was commissioned by former pro cyclist Lance Armstrong. Though it looks thoroughly contemporary, it is modelled on the vintage Daytona ref. 6239 “Pulsations”, one of which just sold at Phillips for US$693,000. The vintage inspiration is literal, yet reinterpreted creatively. The Armstrong has been skeletonised and heavily modified, with both the hour register and automatic winding mechanism removed, resulting in an unusually minimalist watch. Initial thoughts Leaving aside Mr Armstrong’s chequered past – he was a cancer survivor and then multi-time world champion before getting a lifetime ban for doping – his namesake watch is surprisingly interesting. Although it is clearly modern in style, the Armstrong is vintage inspired – it is literally a manual-wind, “pulsations” Daytona. In that sense, it is actually a vintage remake with imagination. A significant amount of effort was clearly expended to get there, and the work appears to be of high quality. Doing away with large chunks of the movements feels drastic, yet the result is intriguing, both conceptually and visually. Or put more simply, it’s weird in a good way. The customisation is priced at about US$45,000, but that excludes the watch, which the client has to supply. It’s fair enough given the substantial work on...

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 Dec 16, 2021

Up Close: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is a dive watch in precious metal, but still affordable – by a large margin compared to the all-yellow gold version – but no less intriguing than its pricier cousin. The standout feature of the”925″ is obvious from the model name: a case made of sterling silver, which is 92.5% silver by weight. But the taupe colour scheme is perhaps more unusual, especially for a dive watch. Essentially a muted grey with a hint of olive, the palette makes this the most understated Black Bay to date. I was impressed when this was released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, but found it seemingly bland when I first saw it in the metal, albeit tightly wrapped in protective plastic. A few months later, Tudor lent me one for a test drive. The brand had insured the watch and assured me that it was fine to wear it out of the house, so I wore it out the day I received it. Initial thoughts A bestseller since its inception three years ago, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight (BB58) quickly evolved from a single model into a line-up of five variants, three of which – gold, silver, and bronze – were launched just this year. Five versions in three years might sound like a lot, but each iteration is vastly different in both style and material, so each has its own appeal. Most importantly, each BB58 variant will likely appeal to different buyers. Among the BB58s, the 925 is arguably the most unique. For one, a precious metal case is novel for Tudor, a brand...

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White” SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts Dec 15, 2021

Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”

Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso has been Dec 15, 2021

Available in the Shop: Flip it and Reverse it, two takes on the iconic Reverso

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso has been an icon for 90 years. Not only does this masterfully distinctive watch have an uncommon shape, it’s also got its signature move - the reversing case. While this watch these days is most commonly seen as something dressy, the Reverso has sporty roots and, as these two examples from WatchFinder & Co demonstrate, can project vastly different moods.

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster breaks Dec 14, 2021

Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold

As the home of watch culture, Time+Tide is always intrigued by how the niche world of horology and the broader milieu of culture impact on each other. We previously explored the effect of celebrity provenance on watches and the prices they fetch, but this past weekend at Phillips we once again saw a clear indicator … ContinuedThe post Ralph Ellison’s Omega Speedmaster breaks the record for the most expensive 145.012 ever sold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer Time+Tide
Dec 13, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer

What would you do if you were an independent brand and created a specced out sports watch? A sports watch made with limited production and containing a chronometer-grade movement. Well, it seems for Brellum, you double down on the sportiness and provide something special. That something special in this case is a DLC-coated version, in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Betting on black with the Brellum Wyvern GMT LE.1 Ghost Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lewis Hamilton vs. Max Verstappen / IWC vs. TAG Heuer: The One Formula 1 Race Where Everyone Wins Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Dec 11, 2021

Lewis Hamilton vs. Max Verstappen / IWC vs. TAG Heuer: The One Formula 1 Race Where Everyone Wins

With the 2021 Formula 1 season's last race taking place this weekend, December 10-12, 2021, in Abu Dhabi, and Lewis Hamilton (Mercedes) and Max Verstappen (Red Bull) tied for first place, the heat is on like never before. The battle between Hamilton and Verstappen is, in essence, also a competition between the two watch brands who sponsor them: IWC (Hamilton) and TAG Heuer (Verstappen), with both brands benefitting from the battles on the track. Martin Green takes a closer look.

J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum: Fractals, Infinity, And Mastery Of Technique Quill & Pad
Breguet Dec 10, 2021

J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum: Fractals, Infinity, And Mastery Of Technique

J.N. Shapiro is the eponymous brand of Josh Shapiro, an educator turned watchmaker who specializes in guilloche. His latest watch, the Infinity Tantalum, is a classic three-hander with a small seconds dial designed in the spirit of George Daniels, Breguet, and other greats. The palladium dial is completely hand-guilloche and sports tantalum chapter rings. And, oh, that gorgeous style!

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour Time+Tide
Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection Dec 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour

When someone hears “Omega”, the watch that pops into their head is invariably the iconic Speedmaster. Yet the brand’s dress watches are some of their oldest designs. Born in 1952, the Constellation line featured signature elements such as the fluted bezel and pie-pan dial that have subsequently made their way into three new Globemaster models … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar collection gets enlivened with a burst of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Farewell to the Omega Ploprof in steel – the tooliest of tool watches Time+Tide
Omega Ploprof Dec 7, 2021

Farewell to the Omega Ploprof in steel – the tooliest of tool watches

The stainless-steel Omega Ploprof (a French contraction of “Plongeur Professional” i.e. professional diver) is now discontinued, leaving the titanium case as the only new option at retail.  What’s more it is now a “heritage model” making me suddenly feel rather old. The Ploprof is big, chunky and looks like it would be more at home … ContinuedThe post Farewell to the Omega Ploprof in steel – the tooliest of tool watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711/1A-018 made Dec 7, 2021

Highlights: George Daniels and Ralph Ellison at Phillips’ New York Auction

While the most high profile lot at Phillips’ upcoming New York sale is surely the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 made for the 170th anniversary of Tiffany & Co., there are a handful more watches in the sale that are notable for different reasons. One is unquestionably the tourbillon pocket watch George Daniels made for Edward Hornby in 1971 for its sheer horological merit. And another notable watch sits at the opposite end of the spectrum in terms of horological quality – it’s a standard Omega Speedmaster Moon Watch – but it is historically important, having been owned by Ralph Ellison, the novelist best known for Invisible Man. The 2021 New York Watch Auction takes place on December 11 1 (lots 1-81) and December 12 (lots 82-165) at 432 Park Avenue, New York. The rest of the catalogue is available here. Lot 102: George Daniels The Edward Hornby Tourbillon Pocket Watch One of eight similar watches, all equipped with a one-minute tourbillon, this was made in 1971 for Edward Hornby, a lawyer who collected watches. Made during the period of 1969 to 1973, the eight watches were the first of Daniels’ own creations. Almost all were made for English collectors, save for one that Daniels made for his daughter, Sarah Jane, and another for German chemist Thomas Engel. Named after its first owner like all the other watches in the series of eight, the Hornby watch is typical Daniels, and consequently, also very much Breguet in style. Entirely hand made by Daniels,...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Dec 7, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 01 Cyber Skull Sapphire

A month after the one-of-a-kind, orange-crystal skull wristwatch sold for CHF220,000 at charity auction Only Watch 2021, Bell & Ross (B&R;) is unveiling its limited edition counterpart in clear sapphire crystal. With both its case and polygonal skull in clear sapphire crystal, the Cyber Skull Sapphire is powered by a proprietary movement incorporating a simple automaton that drives the skull’s lower jaw as the watch is wound. Initial thoughts With its dark orange visage, the Cyber Skull for Only Watch was the most striking lots of the auction, so it’s no surprise that the brand is returning to the idea with a limited run. Granted the Cyber Skull Sapphire lacks the punch of the orange skull, but it is certainly striking with its stying, size, and airy construction. The look is unashamedly modern and very much over the top. But beyond the aesthetics, the watch also features an interesting movement that was developed from the ground up to form a skull. The base plate is skull-shaped, while the going train was laid out to position the balance right in the middle of the skull’s forehead. Like almost all watches with sapphire crystal cases, the Cyber Skull Sapphire has a six figure price tag, albeit just into six figures at US$117,000. But the Cyber Skull Sapphire is catered for a specific buyer: one who wants an extravagant, hyper-modern aesthetic – and isn’t too bothered about price. And it accomplishes what it sets out to do well, but that specific buyer is also ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches

There are certain mechanisms that bring a sense of child-like wonder to the eyes of a watch collector. There is the twisting and turning of a tourbillon. The snap back of a retrograde. And today I present you with a brand making use of a third, with a bit of fun thrown in for good … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Well blows me down, it’s the Vario ИAVI x POPEYE Nautical Watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake Time+Tide
Baltic Bicompax Pulso made Dec 3, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake

As far as microbrands are concerned, Baltic is slowly reaching iconic status. There was a strong showing at this year’s Pink Dial Project auction for breast cancer awareness, research and cure. That was followed by Only Watch, where a proverbial who’s who of brands presented amazing offerings. Their Pulsomètre Chronographe Monopusher nearly tripled the high … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baltic Bicompax Pulso made for Revolution and The Rake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Swatch x Peanuts collection unveils fun range of Snoopy and Charlie Brown watches Time+Tide
Swatch Dec 1, 2021

The Swatch x Peanuts collection unveils fun range of Snoopy and Charlie Brown watches

It seems pretty ironic that Charles Monroe Schulz, the American cartoonist and creator of Peanuts – probably the most popular and influential comic strip in history – should be so indifferent to the name. You could go so far as to say he had an allergic reaction to Peanuts, once saying: “If someone asks me what … ContinuedThe post The Swatch x Peanuts collection unveils fun range of Snoopy and Charlie Brown watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure Time+Tide
Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes Nov 28, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure

In my less than a decade of collecting, I’ve come to categorise watch brands into two distinct groups. The first consists of brands that simply make watches. There is no specific target audience. A little bit of everything is thrown on the plate for as many people as possible to enjoy. The second group of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Norqain Neverest Night Sight comes lumed up and ready for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.