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Fratello
Another Watches and Wonders is in the books, and as always, it takes a moment to process everything. Between the main fair at Palexpo, meetings across Geneva, and visits to the various satellite events around the city, the week becomes a blur of watches, conversations, and quick (yet lasting) impressions. Only afterward do the highlights […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2026 Debrief to read the full article.
Time+Tide
BA111OD announces the acquisition of BCP Tourbillons, bringing tourbillon development in-house, and proves it with a new tourbillon noveltyThe post BA111OD strengthens its watchmaking credentials with BCP Tourbillons acquisition and new Chapter 4 Tourbillon T.V.D. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Stone dials, Pop Art pedigree, guilloché motifs, and a pair of Japanese waterfalls highlight this year's list.More
Worn & Wound
Late last year, we launched one of the most ambitious limited edition collaborations we’ve ever undertaken: the Louis Erard x Worn & Wound Le Régulateur. Developed over the course of three years, the project began with a concept from our side that pushed beyond anything we had done before. Realizing that vision required extensive R&D; to bring it to life at the highest possible standard, but the result was something truly distinct. Our goal with collaborations is always to create something unique, something special, and in this case, the outcome was a watch that stood apart from anything else. Layered, elaborate, provocative, and even a touch challenging, it’s a design that holds its own in even the most esoteric collections. the Worn & Wound x Louis Erard collaboration from 2025 Because the design itself was so original, and the execution so involved, it felt unfortunate for its life to be limited to just the 99 blue models of the initial release. During development, Louis Erard explored several alternate dial colors, some of them quite unconventional. While the design translated surprisingly well across these variations, there was something compelling about the restraint of the grey version that ultimately set it apart. Yes, grey and black are often the safe choices, but here, the result feels anything but typical. Zach Weiss’ Design from the 2022 pitch deck Now known as the “Le Régulateur Esprit Flinqué,” the design set out to rethink the regulator display w...
Worn & Wound
For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design. The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color. Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for. If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...
Monochrome
Without a doubt, one of the most discussed releases of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 and the biggest surprise of Rolex for its 2026 collection… There’s now a new steel Rolex Daytona, but actually not quite. See, for decades, the steel Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona has been available in basically two versions only – white […]
Hodinkee
The new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V is a release from the brand at this year's Watches and Wonders that's gotten quite a bit of chatter, deservedly so. After all, it is the brand's thinnest-ever Overseas, thanks to a brand-new in-house movement developed over seven years, which means what I assume to be an ungodly amount of R&D; dollars per millimeter shaved. It's also come at a time when Vacheron seems to be really having a moment - the passion I saw amongst Vacheron collectors when I was in Miami last month for the opening of the brand's largest U.S. boutique was very much an exciting sight to see. But is the final result worth all the effort? Very much so, if we take the new Overseas Ultra-Thin 2500V as an ultra-limited, ultra-expensive halo product to mark the development of this new caliber. This 2500V and the Overseas Dual-Time Cardinal Points released alongside it at Watches and Wonders are already seeing very strong demand, and I think that's a sign of a good showing in Geneva. To many collectors of Vacheron over the years, the previous ultra-thin, time-only Overseas 2000V might feel like it had just come out, but in fact, a decade has passed since its introduction. Coming in white gold, the case measured 40mm in diameter, with a thickness of 7.5mm. Inside was the Vacheron 1120 caliber, a version of the JLC caliber 920 that had found its way in many watches amongst the Holy Trinity of brands, thanks to its superlative of being the thinnest aut...
Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark. Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter. If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...
Fratello
Watches and Wonders 2026 may officially be closed, but we’re highlighting some of the key brands we visited. Gerald Charles is known for its distinctively styled baroque wristwatches, with a case shape originally designed by Gérald Genta. This year, the brand added to its lineup with a trio of attractive releases. I had the opportunity […] Visit Watches And Wonders 2026 Roundup - Gerald Charles to read the full article.
Fratello
The sun has officially set on Watches and Wonders 2026. The Fratello team is back home, and after a couple of days of R&R;, we’re back to it. Heated discussions have been taking place at HQ, with the team debating the show’s most significant releases, unexpected charmers, notable omissions, and personal favorites. As we begin […] Visit Fresh From The Fair: Nacho’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2026 Releases to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
We all know that watchmakers love complications. Throughout history, the quest for ever greater chronometric precision has produced a wide range of mechanisms, like the tourbillon, which has been mastered by many and improved. The post Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition appeared first on Quill & Pad.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...
Hodinkee
What We Know It's easy to argue that the relaunch of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 (with the added bonus of a solar-powered movement) was both highly anticipated and resulted in one of the most fun summer watches of 2025. Some of the watches stuck around, and some were short-term limited editions tied to different Formula 1 races throughout the year. But if you were waiting for alternative watches (especially vintage-inspired ones), you're in luck, because the brand has dozens of previous variations they haven't tapped to re-release yet. So with that in mind, TAG Heuer has gone for more pastel-inspired releases that start pre-sale on April 28. The new Formula 1 models come in five variations. In a pastel blue, beige/yellow, or pink TH-Polylight cases (TAG Heuer's proprietary bio-polyamide plastic) that are color matched to their opaline dials and Polylight bezels or with sandblasted steel cases with violet-blue dials/bezel with pink accents or pastel green dials/bezels (with eight VS-grade diamonds in place of the circular hour markers), there's a lot of variations available. There's no doubt that these watches lean a bit more feminine than previous releases. The sizing is pretty unisex, however, measuring 38mm by 9.9mm with solid casebacks and screw-down crowns, giving the watch 100m of water resistance. The watches with the Polylight cases come on color-matched rubber straps with pin buckles, while the stainless steel versions have matching sandblasted stainless steel three-ro...
Teddy Baldassarre
The best and brightest of this year's show, as chosen by our editorial team. More
Worn & Wound
“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers. This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...
Worn & Wound
Hamilton is marking the United States’ 250th anniversary with a new limited release tied to both the brand’s American roots and its ties to military history. The Khaki Field Mechanical America 250 Anniversary US Edition is a U.S.-exclusive model limited to 1,776 pieces, referencing, of course, the year the Declaration of Independence was signed. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, Hamilton is using this release to revisit one of its lesser-known military references. The watch takes inspiration from the FAPD 5101 navigator’s watch, developed in the early 1970s for U.S. Air Force navigators during the Vietnam era. Produced for only a short period, the original model has since become one of the rarer Hamilton military watches. It featured a 36mm parkerized steel case, slightly larger than many field watches of its era, and was powered by the 17-jewel Hamilton caliber 684 (a movement developed specifically for that watch and not used elsewhere in the brand’s catalogue). Several of those defining details carry into this new iteration to celebrate the U.S.’s semiquincentennial anniversary (keep that word in your back pocket for trivia night). The case remains 36mm, preserving the footprint of the original reference, while fixed bars are used to keep the strap securely in place. Hamilton has also fitted the watch with an acrylic box-shaped crystal and a protective dust cover, furthering the vintage elements of the original reference point of this model. The dial...
Worn & Wound
Playing on nostalgia is nothing new for watch brands, but I’ve mostly been immune to it. Usually it’s for a period of time I wasn’t alive for, or a war I didn’t fight in, or an old car I simply don’t care about. But I’ve come to accept that I’m at an age where nostalgia for me is actually real history for many. My lived experience of hanging up phones, buying CDs that came in cardboard long boxes, and killing time in malls doing nothing at all might seem as foreign to someone 20 years younger than me as getting all misty about the Pan-Am logo does for my friends and colleagues at the heart of Gen-X. It was inevitable that a luxury watch brand would reach back into my childhood and pull something out like the Reebok Pump. The fact that it’s H. Moser is not particularly surprising given the brand’s recent history of challenging somewhat stodgy conventions of what it means to be a “luxury” brand in the first place. But it does make me feel a little old to know that something I have such a clear memory of from my youth is fodder for the watch nostalgia marketing machine. For those who have forgotten or are simply too young to remember, the Pump was a line of basketball shoes introduced by Reebok in the early 90s with a particularly enticing gimmick, at least to impressionable children who waited all week to watch NBA Inside Stuff every Saturday morning: the shoe’s tongue was topped with a rubber basketball “pump.” Pushing it inflated an air pock...
Monochrome
Tudor’s Black Bay line has grown steadily over the years, moving from the larger early models to more compact and wearable formats. After the original Black Bay and the Black Bay 58, as well as the oversized Black Bay 68, the Black Bay 54 came in as the smallest of the lot, not to mention […]
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors This year’s novelties from Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG26) was a little mix – there were some pleasant surprises, and there were a few that had taken a more safer and predictable path. As usual, we will be selecting 3 of our favourite timepieces from this year’s event. It took quite a while for me [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Robin’s Top 3 from New Releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Hodinkee
What We Know While not at Watches and Wonders this year, De Bethune was one of a number of brands jumping on the release bandwagon this week with a few new versions. Today, we're taking a look at two new pieces from the brand. De Bethune's DB25Vxs Silver Moon keeps some of the brand's futuristic design with the skeletonized lugs, while DB28xs Dark Sand picks up where the brand's DB28xs "Steel Wheels" left off. Let's start with the slightly more traditional watch first. The DB25Vxs Silver Moon trims the DB25L case size down to 40mm and changes the dial around a bit. It's been 17 years since the DB25L came out, so it was time for an update. The watch features a mirrored blued-titanium surround with gold stars, drawing the eye to the mirror-polished steel and blued-titanium spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock, which is accurate to 1 day every 122 years. The domed outer track features printed, slightly dressy Breguet numerals and a minute track for the gold hour and minute hands (in Breguet style as well) while the central dial features a barleycorn guilloché. Inside the 40.6mm by 11.2mm mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case is a caliber running at 4Hz with a 6-day power reserve. While a lot of my friends gravitate more toward that traditional aesthetic from De Bethune, my eyes immediately go for the more extreme De Bethunes, like the DB28xs Dark Sand, with the hinged lugs and (yes, somewhat divisive) arch design on the front. The DB28xs Dark Sand also has a 6-day power reserve...
Monochrome
IWC’s Laureus watches have been available for some time now. Over the years, the brand has released them in different collections, from Pilot’s watches to Portofino models and even some more experimental pieces. What stays consistent over the years is the blue dial and the link to Laureus Sport for Good, a global initiative that […]
Hodinkee
Angular and sharp in its design, the new Monarch brings a new bracelet style and a 'California' dial to the lineup.
Hodinkee
New watches will display the standalone Minerva name on the dial.
Fratello
Sometimes we come across projects or brands initiated by unique characters. Christophe Schaefer is one of those people. He is the founder of Schaefer & Companions, which releases special watches in very limited quantities. These timepieces result from Schaefer using his brand as a platform to celebrate human creativity. He does so by collaborating with […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Schaefer & Companions Solune Antarctica Micro-Painting to read the full article.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer revisits the iconic Formula 1 Solargraph collection for 2026, introducing a new line of pastel-coloured limited editionsThe post TAG Heuer’s Formula 1 Solargraph receives a pastel-powered upgrade for 2026 (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
From a watch with a full-ceramic bracelet from Tudor and a space watch from IWC to a timepiece by H. Moser & Cie. that requires the literal pushing of a button (pump) to power it, this year’s Watches and Wonders did not disappoint. In the frenzy of new watches and watch brands flexing their engineering, […] Visit What Is Your “Palate Cleanser” Wristwatch Following Watches And Wonders? to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days. This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Straight from both the Grand Seiko & Credor booths at Watches & Wonders, we sit down with Joe Kirk to discuss what's new from each of these premiere Japanese Brands.
Worn & Wound
In addition to a barrage of ultra high end novelties, Jaeger-LeCoultre this week has introduced the new Master Control Chronometre collection, with a focus on chronometric elegance with watches featuring a sleek new integrated bracelet sports watch design. Jaeger-LeCoultre has a long history, of course, of not just pure movement making and horology, but in providing certainty behind their movements through the Master Control collection, which was a testing certification conducted in-house over 1,000 hours. The Master Control Chronometre collection continues that tradition while also filling a gap in the brand’s catalog: a (relatively) accessible everyday watch that is not a Reverso. Before getting into the watches themselves, we’ll start with an overview of what “Master Control” really means in 2026. This collection reintroduces the brand’s “High Precision Guarantee” designation, which is an update of an old standard first used on JLC’s Calibre 916, their renowned 4 Hz caliber introduced in 1970. The new HPG designation evaluates performance across four metrics: altitude (certifying that the watch can withstand pressure up to 1004 meters above sea level, the altitude of the JLC manufacture), multi-directional shocks, testing in multiple positions, and variances across temperature. Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed new machinery to test for these conditions, which the brand says can simulate real world use over a long duration in just three days of actual tes...
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