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Time+Tide
Complicated, openworked, draped in platinum and handsome navy tones, this watch is a reminder of what makes GO such a singular brand.The post Glashütte Original’s PanoMaticCalendar “Blue of Dawn” is inspired by their watchmakers’ early morning starts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Though it was launched in 2022, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton still stands out within the catalogue for being the only Overseas in titanium. Vacheron Constantin (VC) has rolled out a pair of limited editions in the lightweight metal, a logical choice for sports watches, but the Overseas tourbillon, in both skeleton and conventional format, is the only regular production model. With its lightness and colour, the metal adds to the appeal of the Overseas tourbillon (which was already pretty good in steel). The skeleton version is further enhanced by the style and finishing of the movement, which is as good as expected of VC, and better than preceding calibres. Initial thoughts The Overseas tourbillon is a large watch and it feels large, but fortunately it is slim, giving it an elegant profile – which is how the best luxury-sports watches should be. Because it is in titanium – which is an uncommon metal for high-end sports watches – the watch is also light, even with the bracelet. This gives it an appealing feel on the wrist. The Overseas tourbillon looks good on its face, and is also surprisingly legible despite being skeletonised. The open-worked movement gives the watch a technical appearance that suits the material and purpose, while the prominent tourbillon showcases its haute horlogerie qualifications; the tourbillon is one of the most elaborately decorated elements of the movement. But one of the best traits of this watch is relative – the...
Worn & Wound
While it’s tempting to build a collection of just tool watches and divers with beefiness and durability in spades, having a good dress watch is a boon for any collector. Not only can a dress watch give you an excuse to put on that dress or suit and accessorize, it can also help remind you that function isn’t everything then it comes to timepieces; style matters too. Seiko’s Presage collection has long been a stalwart for dress watch shoppers on a budget who don’t want to sacrifice craftsmanship, and the new SPB537 reference is a tonneau-shaped addition to the Classic Series line. The enamel dial, paired with the tonneau case, is the major selling point for the SPB537, as it was designed by master artisan Mitsuru Yokosawa and his apprentice, Kazunori Uchiyama. This extra level of prestige elevates the SPB537, and adds a sort of intimacy to the design, despite it being introduced as a non-limited, continuous production model. The dial is white, a gentle contrast to the 46mm by 35.9mm stainless steel case and bracelet, and features sharp black Roman numerals, with a black minute track around the outer edge. A matching 24-hour sub-dial at 6 o’clock balances the dial, with the Seiko Presage logo just below 12. Blued steel hands provide a colorful accent, with a balancing half moon on the tail end of the seconds hand. The blue, though on the subtler side, is a welcome addition to the otherwise very business-like dial, and it furthers the artisan craftsmanship promi...
Fratello
Credor resurrected the Goldfeather name in 2023 with a pair of gold models. The watches combined elegant proportions with a thin case. Unfortunately, the pieces were only offered in Japan. For 2026, there’s good news afoot with a new release intended for global distribution. The new Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Limited Edition is a beauty that […] Visit Introducing: The Credor Goldfeather Imari Nabeshima Limited Edition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Chanel has taken a 30% minority stake in Kross Manufacture, the industrial operation behind the watches of Kross Studio and several third-party clients. Though the investment has not been formally publicised, I reached out to the brand’s founder Marco Tedeschi who confirmed the investment and provided additional context on the strategy for Kross Manufacture. In short, the transaction continues Chanel’s long-running strategy of backing independent watchmaking infrastructure through minority investments, rather than pursuing full acquisitions or operational control. Initial thoughts While Chanel’s growing footprint across independent watchmaking is well documented, its investment in Kross Manufacture is notable for its manufacturing-first focus. Unlike brand-level partnerships, the stake is confined strictly to production capabilities, reinforcing Chanel’s long-term interest in securing specialised, high-end manufacturing capacity rather than expanding its portfolio of consumer-facing marques. In this sense, the investment can be viewed as similar to its 2019 investment in the Kenissi manufacture alongside Tudor. Equally significant is what the deal does not represent: there is no rapid industrial scaling planned. Instead, the investment appears designed to selectively expand capacity, allowing Kross Manufacture to continue serving both its in-house brand and more third-party clients without sacrificing the agility required to produce watches in very small quantities...
SJX Watches
The Toka from Finnish duo Roope Kortela and René Valta reflects the ongoing appeal of beautifully finished, time-only watches, combining a thoughtfully reworked historical calibre with the brand’s first champlevé enamel dial. With an emphasis on high-grade finishing and increasingly in-house components - including a proprietary free-sprung balance - the Toka is a strong sophomore effort from the startup independent. Rene Valta (foreground) and Roope Kortela Initial thoughts It’s been more than 25 years since Philippe Dufour unveiled the Simplicity, a watch that challenged prevailing wisdom about what fine watchmaking was all about. Launched at a time when brands and collectors were focused on complications, the Simplicity arguably created the niche for highly finished time-only watches and intensified collector focus on independent watchmaking in general. Though the field has become crowded over the past quarter-century, collector demand has proven durable. The Toka is a watch built in this tradition. The Omega calibre inside the Toka has been heavily reworked by Kortela Valta. The watchmakers kept most of the original architecture intact, while applying high-end finishing top to bottom. Furthermore, since the start of 2025, the watchmaking duo has expanded the list of components they’re able to make in-house, including the new free-sprung balance that differentiates the Toka from the Eka and Oma models that preceded it. The Toka features a fairly traditional...
Fratello
You wouldn’t necessarily consider time-and-date watches when thinking of complicated haute horlogerie. Even with a power reserve indicator added in, it still doesn’t sound very impressive or complex, does it? Well, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date proves that sometimes the simplest things require the hardest solutions. I got the chance to spend some […] Visit Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
Be honest: did you know of James Lamb before you saw this article on Fratello? Well, I certainly didn’t before I started researching the brand for this article. James Lamb is a British artisan watchmaker, and handmade silver watch cases and enameled silver dials are his shtick. The watches in his Origin Series are all […] Visit British Watchmaker James Lamb Introduces The Linea Edition - A Joint Effort Between Artisans to read the full article.
Time+Tide
It is often considered the most prolific complication in the watch world, and it has a long, complex, story to tell.The post On your marks, get set, go: the history of the chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
One of the most reliable events on the watch release calendar every year is a glut of new watches in January celebrating the lunar new year, which this year begins on February 17. This is a very important holiday in many Asian countries, and brands with an international focus are not shy about dropping limited editions throughout the month to appeal (primarily) to customers in those territories. Of course, very often the watches themselves are quite cool outside the context of the lunar new year celebration itself, and it’s always kind of a fun spectator sport to see what brands come up with. Typically, brands will riff on the animal associated with a given year, and this year it’s the fire horse. First out of the gate: Oris, with the new Year of the Horse Limited Edition. The Year of the Horse Limited Edition can be defined by two prominent features: deep red tones, and the use of the Calibre 113 movement. The movement is somewhat unusual and not used frequently in the Oris catalog, so we’ll start there. This is a manually wound caliber with an impressive ten day power reserve, and also includes a “business calendar” that provides the day, date, and also displays the week of the year via a scale at the dial’s perimeter. The week indicator is an unusual, old-fashioned feature that holds a lot of charm, and provides an easy visual reference for how deep we are into a given year. The watch has a dark red dial with lighter red fumé subdials at 3 and 9 that in...
Time+Tide
We caught up with Georges Kern at Dubai Watch Week, and true to form, the Breitling CEO didn't shy away from the challenging questions.The post Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Fitting for a brand that harnesses the horsepower of the racetrack in its watches, TAG Heuer releases a Carrera Chronograph to celebrate the Year of the Fire Horse. Representing the seventh animal sign in the Chinese zodiac, the horse will rule the roost of the 12 zodiac animals starting on 17 February 2026. The model […]
Fratello
Ski jumping in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Vienna Philharmonic playing Strauss waltzes at the Musikverein, a hangover… This is a random selection of traditional events happening on January 1st. In the world of watches, there’s another unescapable tradition - Rolex price increases. As of January 2026, Rolex raised its prices by almost 6% on some watches. Since […] Visit New Year, Higher Prices: Rolex Hikes Watch Prices By Nearly 6% to read the full article.
Monochrome
On 17 February 2026, the Chinese New Year kicks off with the Year of the Fire Horse, the seventh animal in the Chinese Zodiac and a symbol of power, speed and confidence. Echoing the attributes of the zodiac animal, Oris has equipped this 43mm stainless steel model with its powerful calibre 113, an advanced hand-wound […]
SJX Watches
Seiko founder established a watch store in Tokyo’s Ginza district in 1881, and for the occasion the watchmaker has unveiled a quartet of 145th anniversary watches representing the best of its affordable offerings. While each model is different, all share gilded elements as a unifying motif. The collection is led by a pair of three-hand watches, the King Seiko KS1969 SJE121 and Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship” Enamel Dial SPB538. While the two three-hand editions are arguably the more interesting of the 145th anniversary line-up, the collection also includes a pair of chronographs, the automatic Prospex Speedtimer SRQ059 and solar-powered Astron GPS SSH186. King Seiko SJE12 (left), and Presage Classic SPB538 Initial thoughts Seiko rolls out numerous anniversary watches on a frequent basis, so the anniversary theme itself isn’t a big deal. The 145th anniversary models, however, are appealing in themselves, especially the pair of three-hand models. The top-of-the-line anniversary edition is the King Seiko KS1969, which is far more striking than the regular production model, and certainly worth the modest premium in price. The Presage, on the other hand, is another iteration of the early-wristwatch-style case that Seiko has done before, but not that often. Gold plating is not appropriate on an expensive watch, but the Presage is affordable so it gets a pass. The enamel dial and cuff-style strap are a nice touch that gives the watch a surprisingly vintage feel. ...
Worn & Wound
I’ve never had many gold-tone watches in my collection, and it’s simply because I don’t have much gold jewelry to match. The benefit to this is that I’ve always been incredibly critical of the gold-tone watches I contemplate adding to my collection, knowing that I only want a few in my watch box overall. I acquired this 5T52-7A19 a couple of months ago after a spur-of-the-moment faceoff between me and the “buy it now” button on eBay. While I had owned a model from Seiko’s Age of Discovery line many years ago, I had never come into contact with one of the higher-end models from the collection. I’ve remained true to my self-implemented rule for gold-tone watches, meaning that this model will have the honor of forcing my hand to sell off another piece from the watch box. If you’ve been thinking about adding another gold-tone watch to your collection, let me introduce you to a staunch contender. Brief Overview of the Age of Discovery Line and -7A19 Model The Seiko Age of Discovery was introduced sometime between 1990 and 1992 to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Christopher Columbus’ 1492 voyage. Based on the historical time period of the same name, the Age of Discovery series is heavily influenced by the nautical theming associated with the many expeditions of European travelers between the 15th and 17th centuries. Many of the line’s watches feature motifs that harken back to crucial aspects of seafaring travel, sporting iconography such as maps, ...
Monochrome
One of Johannes Dürrstein’s objectives when he founded Glashütter Uhrenfabrik Union in 1893 was to produce high-quality watches at affordable prices to cater to a broader range of customers. His philosophy of keeping movements simple and cutting down on superlative frills made Dürrstein an early champion of “affordable luxury.” Following the company’s demise in the […]
Fratello
In the second half of 2023, Tudor quietly dropped what would turn out to be one of its most interesting modern dive watches, the Black Bay 54. This 37mm watch instantly became the smallest Black Bay diver in the lineup and slotted in neatly alongside the Black Bay 58 and its standard 41mm counterpart. My […] Visit Battle Of The Black Bays: Tudor Black Bay 54 Vs. Black Bay 58 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In the late 1970s, anyone serious about horology would eventually find themselves in Rockford, Illinois, about 90 miles west of Chicago. Visitors stayed in a hotel near a motorway that happened to be home to many of the world’s greatest clocks and watches. The collection of Seth Atwood sat below the everyday hum: Roman sundials beside Islamic astrolabes; marine chronometers alongside French regulators; English pocket watches paired with American factory movements; and, at the far end, atomic clocks. Rockford was a town that built machine tools and industrial equipment, so the hotel naturally served business travellers and convention attendees. But among them were watchmakers who flew in from Europe and Asia to see mechanisms they couldn’t examine anywhere else. For nearly three decades, one man’s vision put Rockford on the horological map. The 1972 secular true perpetual calendar Patek Philippe ref. 871, made for Seth G. Atwood. Image – Christies/collage Rockford native Seth Glanville Atwood was born in 1917, into a world of industrial logic. His father had started the Atwood Vacuum Machine Company a year earlier, its first product a simple spring-loaded bumper that kept car doors from rattling. Detroit needed millions of them, and the company grew from there, supplying window regulators, door hardware, and other practical parts in volume. Seth grew up around engineers and production managers who solved problems with their hands. After Stanford, Harvard Business Sc...
Time+Tide
Seiko has significantly improved the Alpinist's specs and durability while also adding some stylistic flair and making it truer to its roots.The post Seiko’s eight-generation Alpinist is the best this enthusiast-favourite field watch has ever been appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Christopher Ward released a great stream of watches in 2025. One of our highlights, based on seeing the pictures and reading the press release, at least, was the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT. While we have seen more technically savvy releases from Christopher Ward, the C63 Sealander Extreme GMT is a reminder of what makes it […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Extreme GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Independent Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is regarded as one of the best in his field. Working from his atelier in Motiers, which he founded in 2002, Voutilainen is known for his high-end watches with in-house movements and hand-guilloché dials. His latest watch, the 216TMZ Worldtime, features a movement with a direct-impulse double escapement, first […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bernhardt Watch Company has announced the Cipher Diver, a new limited edition release created to coincide with the United States entering its 250th year of independence. Founded in North Carolina, Bernhardt Watch Company has built a long-standing reputation within the enthusiast community for producing mechanically straightforward, affordably priced watches with a focus on usability and accessibility.
SJX Watches
One of the most important complications of A. Lange & Söhne is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk. And the fanciest iteration of the digital watch is undoubtedly the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst. A limited edition of 30 pieces launched in 2012, this Zeitwerk is part of the Handwerkskunst collection of watches dressed up with hand-applied decoration – handwerkskunst being German for “craftsmanship”. One of Lange’s most important creations, the Zeitwerk is quirky, weird, yet appealing, especially in the first generation format; the Handwerkskunst is probably the pinnacle of that generation. Like a Labubu, it is weird but adorable. I recently got to spend an extended period of time with the Zeitwerk Handwerkskunst, and I thought it worth revisiting. Initial thoughts Lange’s Handwerkskunst collection is eight-watches strong, but I rank the Zeitwerk and Datograph as the best, even though they are neither the most complex nor the most elaborately decorated, because the two models are amongst the brand’s most significant models (alongside the Lange 1). The Zeitwerk is historical for being one of the first digital-display watches – and probably the most reliable, still – and is visually distinctive enough to be one of Lange’s most recognisable models. Moreover, the Handwerkskunst version is not merely dressed up, but it also incorporates a novel escapement that Lange has not used in any other model except for the monumental Grand Complication (that is more complicated and impr...
Time+Tide
The latest release under American brand Hemel's affordable Eylandt sub-brand says it all in the name: puck-shaped, quartz and accessible.The post The Eylandt Puck is a lug-less everyday watch with a smoother sweep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We have a fondness for Certina here at Fratello. Now owned by the Swatch Group, the brand offers good bang for your buck with its solid modern lineup of tool and dress watches. But Certina is also one of those brands that is such a treasure trove for vintage-watch hunting, and one of its many […] Visit Why The Certina Argonaut Is A Vintage Gem to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
For decades now, watch collectors have become enamored with the significance, popularity, and (perhaps most importantly) the absurd affordability of Soviet-era watches. There’s the ingenious Vostok Amphibia dive watch; the various Poljot and Strela chronographs vital to the Russian space program; and the minimalist, glossy-white Raketa Big Zero that signified “the end of history.” What’s lesser known are the timepieces from another part of the Iron Curtain-East Germany, which once encompassed two of the most significant areas of the historic watch industry. Today we associate German watches with the town of Glashütte, where Walter Lange set up a watchmaking school in 1841 and evolved it into one of the great horological houses. Meanwhile, about 300 kilometers to the west is the town of Ruhla. Like Glashütte, Ruhla was also known for metal mining and a tradition of blacksmithing and metalworking. After World War II, it also happened to fall into the Soviet occupation zone, even though it was as far west as one could get. Perhaps it was always fated for this. Image via Ostalgie-Ruhla: Watches of the GDR Both sides faced the evolution of pocket watches to wristwatches, on opposite sides of the World Wars. After 1945, the watch factories in Glashütte and Ruhla were reorganized into publicly-owned enterprises-having endured reparations back to Moscow (to jump-start the USSR’s own watch industry) and the general devastation of the war. Glashütte was a mor...
Time+Tide
This is the first-ever Time+Tide "Mean Tweets"segment. Comments you have shared on our content - and you really let us have it.The post “Mean Tweets” Time+Tide Edition: Reacting to our most savage comments appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
It’s gifting season, and Jaeger-LeCoultre serves up a tantalizing prospect in the form of the Master Control Classic. Despite the 1950s aesthetic, the “Classic” in the name pays homage to early Master Control watches of the 1990s. This era is becoming a burgeoning nostalgia kick in the watch industry for buyers entering their 50s. Okay, […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Classic to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
When the Tudor Ranger was reintroduced in 2022, it represented a missing element to the Tudor catalog. It represents a bygone era of watchmaking from Tudor and Rolex, with watches like the Oyster Prince, and Rolex Explorer 1016, to significant effect. During Dubai Watch Week 2025, they surprised us with an extension to
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