Hodinkee
Hands-On: The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 In Titanium
While everyone lost their minds over the steel models, we got our hands on some grade-5 lightness.
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Hodinkee
While everyone lost their minds over the steel models, we got our hands on some grade-5 lightness.
Time+Tide
The new HYT Conical Tourbillon culminates HYT’s decade of technological advancement. Their exclusive mechanical fluidic technology blends seamlessly alongside traditional techniques such as glassblowing. The Conical Tourbillon is accentuated by a series of animated flying orbs. Despite a few rocky years including bankruptcy and resurrection, the unparalleled brand HYT is celebrating a decade of innovation … ContinuedThe post The HYT Conical Tourbillon is a visual blend of horology and science fiction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Attendees of the Watches and Wonders 2023 were mesmerized by the out-of-this-world Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution. Within a 47mm gold case, a satellite makes a revolution precisely every 60 seconds. Its three arms carry a ruby that makes a revolution on its own axis every 15 seconds, a Jacob & Co. triple axis tourbillon […]
Hodinkee
While the size has been modernized, this new Normale is the purest essence of Tank design.
Revolution
At Watches and Wonders 2023, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor of Revolution, got his hands on an Alpina Extreme Regulator Automatic, which now comes with an integrated bracelet and blue dial. He discussed this cool novelty with the Brand Director of Alpina, Oliver van Lanschot. Alpina has also released an 888-piece limited edition black dial […]
Worn & Wound
The lineup from Jaeger-LeCoultre at this year’s Watches & Wonders is remarkably focused. When I received the embargoed press releases a few weeks ago, I’ll admit to a slight twinge of disappointment at the apparent lack of variety. It would be a Reverso year for the watchmaker’s watchmaker, and vague hopes that I always have for a recommitment to high spec but elegant sports watches were once again dashed. My disappointment (it’s an overstatement to even call it that) was short lived, as I began to dig into those very same press releases and began to realize that we were likely to see some beautiful stuff from JLC. The Reverso is such a great watch, it’s tough to be anything but charmed by them at the end of the day. The most interesting of the new Reversos that I saw is also the most clever, and is a fun, practical, and beautiful use of the iconic hinged case and the capacity for the watch to feature two dial displays. The new Tribute Chronograph is part of a large package of new references in the “Tribute” category, all paying tribute to the original Reverso in their perfect proportions. For the chrono, we get two references, one in gold and the other in steel, each with a dial that tells the current time and a secondary dial that displays elapsed time via a rather ingenious chronograph display. Think about almost every chronograph you’ve ever seen, and you begin to realize that a circular case and dial are practically core to the complication itsel...
Hodinkee
With multiple treatments to chose from, Louis Cartier's iconic watch finally joins the Privé collection. And check out those bracelets!
Revolution
Trilobe is a trailblazer in the world of unusual timetelling, and its pieces are extremely lightweight at that. Discover the new versions of the Trilobe Une Folle Journée together with Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Trilobe Founder Gautier Massonneau. Presented at Watches and Wonders 2023, the Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant has diamond-set rings, while […]
Revolution
Roger Dubuis CEO Nicola Andreatta shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph, an absorbing work of architecture and feat of engineering that beats gravity. Firstly, its high-efficiency Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight harnesses gravity to power the watch and necessitated eight months of research and development. Next, its Conical Monovortex Tourbillon […]
Hodinkee
It's gone from 36mm to 39mm to 36mm…and now all the way up to 40.
Worn & Wound
Change is hard, as they say. Particularly when the thing that requires it, wasn’t exactly broken in the first place. Rolex has found themselves in a near impossible situation of updating the near universally lauded 1165XX generation of the Daytona. A watch that’s recently found itself in a position it never really asked to be in, serving as the barometer of the second hand watch market and subsequently the subject of ire to many lamenting availability issues writ large at boutiques the world over. The watch itself, though? When considered at its initial MSRP upon introduction in 2016, which was $12,400 (or even its MSRP last year, which was $13,500), is pretty awesome. Not without fault, certainly, but a mighty fine chronograph to be sure and a total sweetheart on the wrist. But of course, the Daytona was a rare bird to score at retail pricing, and judging it at aftermarket prices was a far murkier proposition. Still, there’s no doubting that this watch tapped into something deep, serving as the veritable poster child of the meteoric rise of the hype watch, and for good reason: it’s a great all around watch sitting on a load of heritage that includes some of the coolest figures of the past 50 years helping to inadvertently build the watch’s lore to unhealthy levels in today’s climate. While things have mercifully cooled off over the past 12 months, this is still largely the context in which Rolex is tasked with creating a new generation of Daytona, which they...
Revolution
A long-serving employee of Hermès, Hermès Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet has strove to establish the maison as a respected creator of fine watches. He has endeavored to develop watches like the H08, Arceau le Temps Voyageur and Arceau Hermès Story that are instantly recognizable from afar. At Watches and Wonders 2023, the H08 returns in […]
Worn & Wound
There seem to be two strategies for product presentations at Watches & Wonders. The first, and more common, is to barrage members of the press with watch, after watch, after watch. Too many, sometimes, to even begin to comprehend the releases that really stand out. The other strategy, which is less common but might be growing in popularity, is to focus on a single watch, and really dive into it in great detail. That’s the approach taken by Ulysse Nardin this year with the Freak ONE, a new entry into the Freak ecosystem that sits somewhere between the Freak X, made for the most casual possible Freak-curious customer (I mean, it has a crown, it’s practically a normal watch), and the absolutely ludicrous Freak S, the pinnacle of Freak design and the most complicated watch Ulysse Nardin has made on the platform in its 20+ year history. History is at the center of the conversation with respect to the new Freak ONE. It’s a tribute, in some subtle ways, to the very first Freak, which Ulysee Nardin had on hand at the fair for the sake of comparison. Accents of gold in the Freak ONE are the most obvious connection besides general layout, common to all Freaks. But the gold here is perhaps more than just an “accent,” as we get not just a gold bezel (used for setting the time) but a solid gold movement on display at the center of the piece. The visible movement is very much the key to Freak, as it rotates around the dial (which isn’t really a “dial” in the traditiona...
Hodinkee
The new OP design is a totally unexpected move from the kings of traditional watchmaking. That's exactly why it's so marvelous.
Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well. The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa. The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...
Worn & Wound
I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...
Hodinkee
Max Büsser knows how to give the fans what they want.
Revolution
Laurent Lecamp, Montblanc’s Managing Director for the Watch Division, introduces new Iced Sea watches, which are inspired by maritime expeditions and sport glacier pattern dials created using a traditional technique called gratté-boisé. Next, he showed Revolution Founder Wei Koh the new additions to the Montblanc 0 Oxygen series. Inspired by mountaineers like Nimsdai Purja and […]
Time+Tide
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe brings a surprising jolt of colour to the Calatrava for Watches & Wonders 2023 The time and date reference gets 3 new dials in bright yellow, red, and blue The design harks back to the limited edition 6007A, but gets a case upgrade to polished white gold The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Laurent Ferrier is a third-generation watchmaker, who graduated from École d’Horlogerie de Genève in 1968 and worked 37 years in Patek Philippe. Hailed by many as the master of sector dial watches, Laurent Ferrier was 63 when he started his eponymous watch brand in 2010. At Watches and Wonders 2023, he introduces three new novelties […]
Revolution
This year, Panerai shines the spotlight on the historic Radiomir, which is one of four major Panerai collections alongside the Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible. In this video, Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué presents new novelties like the Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar, Radiomir California, Radiomir Otto Giorni and Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech to Revolution’s Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto […]
Revolution
At Urwerk’s atelier, Jeremiah Chan, Deputy Digital Editor, got to know the back story of the iconic UR-102 in detail. As you might be aware, the UR-102 is inspired by the Sputnik satellite, and this unconventional timepiece played a fundamental role in launching Urwerk to success, along with paving the way for futuristic independent watchmaking. […]
Revolution
Discover the L.U.C. 1860 with Lucent Steel case and solid-gold guilloché dial, together with Chopard’s Ken Koshiyama and Revolution Founder Wei Koh, followed by the extra thin Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF.
Hodinkee
The entry point into the Octo collection gets refreshed and refined (and gets a chronograph).
Revolution
Join Chris Grainger, CEO of IWC, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, as they discuss the latest by IWC. At Watches and Wonders 2023, IWC shines the spotlight on the new Ingenieur. Originally designed by the late great Gérald Genta in 1976, this 40mm amagnetic timepiece is available this year with black, silver or aqua […]
Revolution
Rolf Studer, CEO of Oris, shows Oris’s Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties to Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution. If you’re a watch fan, you might have heard about the Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition, designed by Oris’s creative director Ken Laurent and Disney’s The Muppets. A short film was made about this special watch, which […]
Revolution
Besides the new Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, and L.U.C. 1860, Chopard also introduced several stunning versions of the Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph at Watches and Wonders 2023. Inspired by the legendary Mille Miglia race, this 40.5mm Lucent Steel timepiece is now available in colors like light […]
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