221 articles · 14 videos found · page 5 of 8
Monochrome
In 2020, Jacob & Co. and Bugatti forged a partnership resulting in the creation of one of the most spectacular automotive-inspired watches ever, the Chiron Tourbillon. This not only carried over plenty of design cues from the record-breaking hypercar but also a detailed and working miniature interpretation of its W16 engine, crafted in sapphire crystal. […]
Fratello
Just over four decades after its debut, the Rado Anatom is back. It’s bigger than ever with a mechanical movement instead of a quartz one, a bezel and crown in black high-tech ceramic, and a middle case in black PVD-treated steel instead of traditional steel. The new Anatom also shows an impressive edge-to-edge sapphire crystal […] Visit Splitting The Anatom - Hands-On With The New Rado Anatom Automatic And Its Vintage Predecessor to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Jubilee Asymmetrical Driver’s Watch Starting off this week with a wild one, a vintage Jubilee asymmetrical driver’s watch that has a super cool see through acrylic case! The case is wedge shaped and raised at the top to make it easier to read while your hand is on your steering wheel. The clear acrylic is really neat, giving you a view of the inner workings. The case is nice and clear, with sharp edges and no cracks or crazing that I can see. The deep blue crosshair dial has a beautiful patina, giving it a lapis lazuli look. The blue strap has to be original, it fits both in style and color too perfectly. Seller states the watch runs, so it’s ready to show off at your next cocktail party! View auction here Vintage Bulova Beau Brummel If it’s bling you seek, search no further! This vintage 1965 Bulova Beau Brummel is a stunner, with bling and style in spades. The 10k gold filled case is excellent and appears unpolished, with nice sharp edges and sharp fancy lugs. The wide smooth bezel gives the watch real presence. Speaking of presence, check out that bullseye style gold dial with the real diamond hour markers at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11. Now, this style certainly isn...
SJX Watches
Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...
SJX Watches
An artist famous for his “eroded” Future Relic works, Daniel Arsham also occupies a prominent place in popular culture thanks to his collaborations with brands from Porsche to Dior to Pokemon. Now he brings his unique style to Hublot with the Arsham Droplet, a sleek pocket watch (or pendant watch) in titanium and sapphire crystal that transforms into a desk clock. The Arsham Droplet reflects the recurring of past-and-future found in many of Mr Arsham’s work. “The [Droplet] looks futuristic to me… like it’s been pulled from the future,” says Mr Arsham, yet “people were last carrying pocket watch a hundred years ago”. Initial thoughts Having spoken to him about watches before, it is clear that Mr Arsham is a collector himself and owns watches that enthusiast would envy. This is why the Droplet is a lot more than many artist-watchmaker collaborations. Daniel Arsham Hublot has done a variety of artist collaborations in the past that were of varying appeal to me personally. I loved the Murakami, less so the Orlinski. The Arsham Droplet is not only appealing, but it is “surprising” as himself Mr Arsham describes it. Not only is it surprising because it’s a pocket watch in a novel shape and material, but also because “it doesn’t contain iconic elements I’ve used in the past” says Mr Arsham. The Droplet is not merely an “eroded” wristwatch or one dressed in Arsham colours. Instead it was conceived from the ground up, and the result is a fascinat...
SJX Watches
A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...
SJX Watches
You can never be too rich or too thin – a quote attributed to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor, but it might as well have come from Piaget, which just debuted the thinnest tourbillon wristwatch in history, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary. Covered in-depth at launch, the AUC Tourbillon is just 2 mm thick, including the case and crystal; that makes the watch thinner than a Swiss five-franc coin. While its record-breaking dimensions are headline-grabbing, it’s the watch’s overall design and ergonomics that make it look and feel almost miraculous on the wrist. The AUC Tourbillon next to the five-franc coin; it’s also slimmer than the two-franc coin, and equivalent to about 20 sheets of A4 printer paper Initial thoughts Record-chasing, whether in terms of thickness, weight, water resistance, or complications, is a common theme in the watch industry, but the results are often gimmicky and impractical. When I heard that Piaget would be introducing the thinnest tourbillon in history, I rolled my eyes. But my perspective changed as soon as I picked up the AUC Tourbillon, a moment that stands out in my memory as a highlight of Watches & Wonders 2024. The watch is thin, of course, but the immediate impression is one of substance; it feels far more substantial than it looks. This is in part due to the M64BC cobalt alloy case, the extreme rigidity of which makes the watch’s 2 mm thinness possible. Furthermore, the ergonomics of the case, which is...
Fratello
Let me make something crystal clear: I’m not a watch fundamentalist. I don’t live by the strict rule that you can only wear an X-type watch when you are doing an X-type of activity. If I did, I probably couldn’t wear any of the watches in my modest collection. Since I’m not flying a spacecraft, […] Visit Dive Watches For Shallow People: When The GADA Watch Becomes, Well, A Bit Gaudy to read the full article.
SJX Watches
MB&F; has released the third instalment of its automobile-inspired wristwatch, the HM8 Mark 2. Now in blue CarbonMacrolon, the latest HM8 Mark 2 follows on the green and white iterations introduced last year. Inspired by 1970s sports cars like the Lamborghini Miura, the new Mark 2 retains the model’s signature speedometer-like display for the time and “double bubble” sapphire crystal. Although the CarbonMacrolon panels of the case are also found on earlier versions, the material has been tweaked to incorporate ingredients also found in automotive paint, giving the case a metallic, sparkly blue finish resembling a car’s paintwork. Initial thoughts Though only a cosmetic update to the model, the latest HM8 Mark 2 is the most striking to date. Though the change of colour might seem like a trivial matter, the new paintwork is a perfect complement to the styling and concept of the watch – the metallic finish really does evoke the paintwork of a high-end automobile. Interestingly, the new Mark 2 feels sleeker than the earlier versions thanks to the paintwork, even though the watch is identical in dimensions and form. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version, and the same movement is visible in the “engine bay” through the sloping sapphire crystal. The Girard-Perregaux calibre has been MB&F;’s base movement of choice almost since its founding two decades ago, so something more interesting would be a useful upgrade, particularly since the movement i...
Monochrome
The Big Bang MP-11’s impressive 14-day power reserve, derived from seven series-coupled and horizontally arranged barrels, has been a staple at Hublot since 2018. Using a sapphire crystal case to house the HUB9011 movement isn’t entirely novel (one of the inaugural models featured this). Still, it’s hard to overlook the allure of the latest iteration […]
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer is launching an upmarket of its sailing chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2024: the Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18k rose gold is essentially the same as the steel iteration released in 2023, save for the precious metal case. Employing the well received “Glassbox” case, the Skipper has the signature domed dial flange that acts as an inner bezel, accentuated by a domed sapphire crystal. Unique to the Skipper model are the teal sub-dial at nine and the tri-colour register at three, both modelled on the vintage original. Initial Thoughts I am a fan of the Carrera Glassbox. It’s a surprisingly versatile model – some variants have a no-nonsense style that bring to mind the original racing chronographs of the 1960s, while others like the Skipper are strikingly coloured. Most variants nonetheless are inspired by the vintage Carrera in all its flavours. None of the other Carrera models come close to the Skipper’s sunburst blue dial with teal accents; it looks quite splendid under the sun. Not to mention that the Skipper happens to be very wearable at 39 mm. Whether the gold version is an appealing proposition is another questions altogether. Most would opt for the steel Skipper just as a matter of budget. That said, the rose gold Skipper at CHF 21,000, is an acceptable value proposition as solid-gold chronographs go. Its competitive advantage lies in the appealing, historically-inspired design and in-house column wheel chronograph movement – there are lots o...
SJX Watches
Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...
SJX Watches
Piaget does the unexpected to mark its 150th anniversary. Instead of a special edition of an existing timepiece, Piaget has profoundly reworked the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) – endowing it with a flying tourbillon. The thinnest tourbillon ever by some margin, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary measures 41.5 mm in diameter and stands just 2 mm high, crystal included. In other words, Piaget installed a tourbillon in the AUC while maintaining the same overall height. Initial thoughts The original AUC of 2018 was an impressive example of micro engineering. The innovative movement construction resulted in a case thickness of just 2 mm, while still managing to look like a conventional watch, as opposed to the panel-like appearance of the even thinner Richard Mille RM UP-01. Now Piaget has built upon the concept by adding a tourbillon to the slim construction. A tourbillon is not a practical addition, since chronometry was never the main point of the AUC. Instead, this is an exercise in pushing the limits of micro engineering. Piaget’s engineer surmounted the challenge and the result is nothing short of amazing. It’s crucial to note that adding a tourbillon to the AUC is not merely adding a tourbillon. Practically the entire calibre was reworked – according to Piaget one 90% of the parts are new – right down to reducing the number of spokes in the wheels to minimise energy consumption. Beyond its mechanics, the AUC Tourbillon also...
Hodinkee
Returning to our crystal ball to make Tudor predictions that most certainly won't come to pass – but we try every year.
Monochrome
A lightsaber, wielded by Force-sensitive characters in Star Wars, is a luminescent laser sword powered by a kyber crystal. Shaped like a lightsaber, Urwerk’s SpaceTime Blade cuts through all timekeeping mechanisms with its unique display and countless timings related to our planet delivered via glowing orange Nixie bulbs. Marking its reentry into our atmosphere, Urwerk’s […]
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...
Hodinkee
In white gold, made in 200 pieces, and with a beautiful "Crystal Sky" dial, this watch nods to the past and weighs gentle on my mind.
Time+Tide
Buffy gives their Universal Genève some much-needed TLC. But is a $5 crystal a step too far in this ultra-budget journey?The post My DIY restoration of a solid gold Universal Genève that cost $7 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Omega has increased the price of its Speedmaster models quite significantly in the past few years. While one could buy the classic Moonwatch for less than €5,000 not even that long ago, the models with a sapphire front and back crystal are rapidly approaching the €10,000 mark. Granted, it’s not the same watch that it […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Two Omega Speedmasters And A Spacemaster to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...
Worn & Wound
Last year was the year of the Glassbox for TAG Heuer, and in 2024 they’ve picked up nearly where they left off in what many will agree is their key LVMH Watch Week release. The twist with the latest Carrera in the Glassbox form factor (with that gorgeous domed crystal) is that this one comes in the cult classic “Dato” format, with an uncommon date window at the 9:00 position and a sole 30 minute counter at 3:00. It’s immediately recognizable, particularly in the bold teal colorway TAG has chosen for this release. The latest Carrera cements the Glassbox style by extending into yet another segment of the long history of TAG’s most elegant racing chronograph. Just in the last year, we’ve seen Glassbox designs in the unusual 12:00 date Carrera, a reissue of the popular Skipper, and a completely new Porsche collaboration with one of the most unusual chrono movements we’ve seen. Now we get a Dato version, giving another old favorite a new look. Note that in addition to the dramatic color, the dial also features an unusual circular brushed finish that we imagine will give this Dato a dynamism in the light that isn’t easily captured in photos. The teal Dato comes in a case measuring 39mm in diameter and 13.86mm tall. That might seem to be on the tall side, but the Glassbox design, with its prominent crystal and the outer flange on the dial, makes everything feel just a little more compact. The design of the crystal, and the way the flange fills it, also helps l...
Monochrome
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera chronograph last year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Glassbox and a 42mm Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a timepiece equally characterised by seamlessly integrated domed sapphire crystal. Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on early Carrera models, this watch with refined ergonomics presented a distinct and clean […]
Quill & Pad
In Ken Gargett’s opinion, Billecart-Salmon’s Cuvee Nicolas François is a great champagne, whatever the vintage, but from 2008, it is transcendent. The champagne is of a gleaming appearance, like cut crystal. One sniff and it is obvious we are dealing with something that is wonderfully complex, elegant, still fresh and impeccably balanced.
Monochrome
A visually faithful re-edition of a vintage dive watch, the classic version of the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster – which we reviewed here – combines the charm of an old watch with the ease-of-use of a modern watch, built with contemporary features and materials like sapphire crystal. And in all fairness, this is a perfect package […]
Monochrome
The world of Yvan Arpa is one of boundless imagination. Flamboyant and unpredictable, he breathes life into timepieces, which under the brand Artya, defy convention and embrace a daring uniqueness. True to its name, the Dome collection captivates with its sculptural domed sapphire crystal, protecting distinctive dials, some crafted from natural materials, ensuring that no […]
Monochrome
Corum’s launch of the Bubble watch in 2000 took the watch world by surprise. Well before the onslaught of XXL watches, the Bubble exploded on the scene with a massive 44mm case and, even more startling, a towering domed sapphire crystal magnifying and producing crazy distortions on the dial. Inspired by an experimental deep-sea dive […]
Worn & Wound
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
SJX Watches
Hublot unveiled its fourth collaboration with the Japanese artist Takashi Murakami – the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Tourbillon Sapphire. Demonstrating Hublot’s mastery sapphire crystal cases, the watch is the brand’s first central tourbillon in regular production. The MP-15 is a fusion of artistic expression and watchmaking, that pushes the boundaries of mechanics and design, with the nudging of Mr Murakami, who previously designed a pair of simpler watches for Hublot. Initial thoughts The MP-15 is an entirely new watch, from case to movement, that was constructed to embody Mr Murakami’s signature style. It takes a fresh and playful direction away from the relatively tamer previous editions that were based on an existing model. First seen with the unique example produced for Only Watch, the latest collaboration between Hublot and Takashi Murakami seamlessly combines Mr Murakami’s artistic vision with Hublot’s watchmaking proficiency, resulting in a unique and expressive watch. Notably, the MP-15 is not as big as expected. It’s 42 mm in diameter but has no lugs, while the strap is narrow, making it suitable for both men and women. The Only Watch edition The MP-15 is more than a watch; it’s arguably wearable art. The retail price of US$316,000 certainly puts it closer to Mr Murakami’s creations than a wristwatch, even with the tourbillon. It is a very expensive wristwatch, but not so expensive relative to Mr Murakami’s art. Though this is a relatively lar...
Deployant
ArtyA releases the Curvy Purity Tourbillon as an addition to their collection with a tonneau shaped sapphire crystal case with a tourbillon.
SJX Watches
Corum’s latest creation is the Concept Watch, a one-off timepiece that departs from the brand’s current offerings in its futuristic style. For a brand better known for the Golden Bridge and Admiral’s Cup, the Concept Watch is bold, different, and not for everyone. Made of recycled titanium, the case contains a movement with a flying tourbillon and sapphire crystal bridges set against an aventurine base. The movement, however, is a La Joux-Perret calibre that’s been found in Corum watches for several years. Initial thoughts With most of its sports watches being large and ostentatious, it’s good to see the brand shifting towards something more elegant. The Concept Watch is compact at under 40 mm in diameter and relatively restrained in design. While it is more appealing than most of Corum’s recent watches, there are caveats. I am not fond of the case design, which is too reminiscent of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. A round case with apertures that maximises the view of the movement, one similar to that of the Franc Villa FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, would have made this less derivative. Also, the strap attachment appears awkward, and will probably not make its way into other ways. At the same time, even though the design is a break from the past, the CO374 movement has been employed by Corum for more than a decade now. It is a La Joux-Perret calibre found in various forms across several brands, including the Arnold & Son TES Tourbillon. Notably, Corum debuted a...
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