253 articles · 16 videos found · page 5 of 9
Time+Tide
Bridging the gap from the SUB 600 to the ultra-deep 1500, the new slimmer 750T strikes a great balance between specs and wearability.The post The Doxa SUB 750T is back, and it’s significantly slimmer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]
Monochrome
It might seem like aeons ago, but MB&F;’s Legacy Machine dynasty is still a teenager in watchmaking terms. Launched in 2011, the LM family turned our perceptions of MB&F;’s galactic design language inside out and upside down. Flying back to 19th-century watchmaking for inspiration, Max Büsser’s vision of a monumental balance wheel suspended on the […]
Deployant
Zenith has expanded its Chronomaster Sport collection with the release of the Meteorite edition, a stainless steel chronograph featuring a dial crafted from genuine extraterrestrial material. Previously available only in Japan, this model is now offered globally through Zenith boutiques and authorized retailers. Priced at $17,500, the watch combines Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero 3600 movement with a unique Widmanstätten-patterned meteorite dial, aiming to balance technical precision with visual distinctiveness.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025 with a steady stream of new releases. Among them is a pair of fresh takes on one of the most elegant sports watches in its stable, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. This model has long been a showcase of the maison’s ability to balance sportiness and […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...
SJX Watches
Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...
WatchAdvice
The Raymond Weil Millésime Tri-Compax Rose Gold is a timepiece that blends vintage-inspired design with modern execution and just the right amount of flair. From the case finishing to the tri-compax sector dial, this watch doesn’t just look good, it feels special on the wrist! What We Love The rose gold PVD finish truly enhances the watch’s luxurious appeal with the various finishes on the case. Sector dial layout with tri-compax subdials that balance complexity with elegance. Vintage-inspired design reimagined with modern-day elegance. What We Don’t The leather strap feels limiting for daily wear due to long-term durability concerns. No clasp option offered. Constant use of the pin buckle can wear out the strap quicker. The case may look thick from the side, which might put off some wearers despite wearing slimmer in person Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It was only two short years ago that Raymond Weil unveiled their Millésimecollection. Raymond Weil’s creative elegance, innovative technology, and Swiss-made excellence were all rolled into one collection. The brand paid homage to the rich heritage and traditions of horology, which can easily be seen through the vintage-inspired case and dial design. The Millésime collection pays tribute to the golden age of watchmaking from the 1930s to 1960s. The word Millésime, meaning “vintage” or “vintage year” in French, couldn’t be more fit...
Time+Tide
In two dusty tones, the new addition to Glashütte Original's Senator line shows balance and poise in its design. The post Glashütte Original brings sultry shades of silver and copper to their signature Senator Panorama Date Moonphase (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
In the world of watches, simplicity is frequently overlooked. But the new Brew Metric Lite is proof that petite doesn’t have to mean pared-down. With clean lines, charming proportions, and an unapologetically unisex design, it hits that rare balance of effortless style and everyday wearability. It’s not a trophy watch, it’s a companion-to coffee dates, late nights, and everything in between. The Metric Lite reimagines Brew’s signature style as something more universal-stripped back, but still unmistakably “Brew.” It’s an automatic three-hander with no gimmicks, just good design. The case is compact but confident, sliding under cuffs or over bare wrists with equal ease. And with a softened rectangular silhouette and muted dial tones, it’s simple yet stylish, fun yet formal, small yet substantial, refined yet relaxed. The post Lookbook: Brew Metric Lite is Finessed Form, Function, and Fun… All In One appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
Nomos has found its own niche within the world of watches. It is easy to see why they have gained such a strong reputation by providing unique, Bauhaus-inspired designs and quality in-house movements at relatively affordable prices. In Raman Kalra’s opinion, the Nomos Club Neomatik is one of the best watches in their collection. A perfect balance of what Nomos is all about.
Worn & Wound
2025 has already been a memorable year for Christopher Ward. Having launched the C12 Loco back in April, their most ambitious watch to date, they’ve further shown they are an indie force to be reckoned with. But, while the C12 Loco proved that they can achieve complicated watchmaking at a reasonable price, it was still on the top end of their catalog. To balance this, for their next launch, they are returning, to some extent, to their roots with an affordable diver, the C60 Trident Reef. Please note that production watches will differ from the samples shown in the following ways: the depth rating will match the color of the “automatic” text, and the hour hand will be rhodium plated. A playful riff on the Trident C60 platform, the Reefs are modern, colorful, and feel like a throwback to watches from about a decade ago, rather than something mid-century. Coming in five colors and two sizes, they feature a new case with a shrouded mid-section, allowing for a dynamic design, especially at the price. Wrapped in matte aluminum (save one version), the mid-cases are anodized to match the aluminum bezel inserts. The result is fun and unexpected, if intense, particularly on a model like the orange shown. Measuring either 41 x 47.9 x 11.45mm or 44 x 51.4 x 11.45mm, both models feature 22mm lugs and 200m of water resistance, positioning them as medium and large divers in the C Ward collection, which fills gaps left by the C60 Pros. The 44mm model, in particular, will be met with...
SJX Watches
While the invention of the spiral hairspring by Christiaan Huygens in 1675 kickstarted a revolution in terms of portable precision timekeeping, the concept was far from fully developed. It was arguably only with the later invention of the overcoil hairspring that the ideal oscillator in portable watches emerged. For many years horologists - theoreticians and artisans alike - worked to perfect the balance-hairspring assembly to optimise its performance, notably in terms of isochronism. True isochronism became a sort of holy grail for watchmakers all around the world, who all sought to ameliorate the inherent quirks of the sprung oscillator. The recent Breguet Soucription features an overcoil hairspring of non-magnetic Nivachron alloy The need for end curves The quest for isochronism was a true challenge for horologists. Isochronism is the ability of the balance-hairspring assembly the have the same period of oscillation for small and large amplitudes alike. In other words, the balance oscillation takes the same period of time regardless of the degree travelled. This is very important, since a balance usually swings with high amplitude with a fully wound mainspring and then runs at progressively smaller amplitude as the barrel unwinds. As a timepiece is required to keep good time regardless of its winding state, an oscillator whose period is independent from its amplitude is needed. (Another solution to this is to optimise the energy delivery from the mainspring with a...
Quill & Pad
The McGonigle Tuscar launched at Baselworld 2010 as a limited edition of ten pieces. Despite launching with only a rough sketch of the balance bridge, it quickly sold out. Now, after years of development and testing, Stephen McGonigle launches the Ogma, which will replace the Tuscar.
Quill & Pad
The MB&F; SP One, initially dubbed "Three Circles", showcases a trinity of floating elements – the barrel, balance wheel, and dial – defying gravity on your wrist.
SJX Watches
In the fifth episode of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss Breguet’s reinterpretation of the Souscription for its 250th anniversary, as well as a historical Breguet watches coming up for auction, including a pocket watch owned by Napoleon’s sister and the very first modern-day Breguet Sympathique. We also talk about Christopher Ward’s daring new C12 with a dial-side balance wheel and very contemporary styling, before moving on to antique watches and clocks coming up for auction at Phillips in Geneva, including a 1920s portico mystery clock by Cartier in the “orientalist” style. Lastly, we finish some complicated pocket watches, which are perhaps under appreciated but magnificent examples of horology. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
Out to replicate the success of the Bel Canto and prove it’s not a one-hit wonder, Christopher Ward has introduced the C12 Loco. While the integrated bracelet look is now commonplace, the Loco breaks new ground for the British brand in terms of its differentiated movement architecture, and features an inverted free-sprung balance on the dial side of the watch. Spiritual successor to the Bel Canto, the C12 Loco paints a picture of Christopher Ward’s ambitions as a brand. Like Louis Erard, which is on a similar mission to make traditional craft and independent design more accessible, Christopher Ward is looking to redefine what collectors should expect from entry level watchmaking. Initial thoughts The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s foray into integrated bracelet sport watches. Its launch in 2023 was not without some controversy, being seen as too similar to the Czapek Antarctique; it turned out both designs came from the mind of designer Adrian Buchmann. Despite the rocky start, the collection has been a commercial success and the brand has done a commendable job developing the line-up and keeping prices in check. The Loco is the most ambitious Twelve to-date, with an off-center time display that opens up space at six o’clock for an exposed balance wheel and escapement. Like the Bel Canto, the watch does not feature the Christopher Ward brand name on the dial. In an era when attention is the name of the game, it’s nice to see a small brand with the confidence to let...
SJX Watches
“Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” was the colour code for the original Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST of 1972, and now Audemars Piguet has translated the dark blue shade into its latest ceramic. Making its debut in three Royal Oak models, including the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, the “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic is restrained and a departure from the bright, almost electric blue of the brand’s earlier blue ceramic. Initial thoughts Ceramic is a material that lends itself well to the Royal Oak design; the brushed and polished surfaces that are the trademark Royal Oak surface finishing look good with the hardness and glossiness of ceramic. The earlier bright blue ceramic used by AP was too bright in my opinion. The new dark blue hue, on the other hand, feels just nice. The downside of an all-ceramic Royal Oak is the price. The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph with a matching ceramic bracelet costs almost US$90,000, double the price of the steel equivalent and almost as much as the gold model. According to AP, the cost is primarily due to the difficult in finishing the ceramic – every element of the case and bracelet is brushed or polished by hand – which is true, but it’s still expensive. The most affordable model with the new ceramic only has its bezel and pushers in ceramic ” Night blue” According to AP, “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” (which translates as “night blue, cloud 50”) was the code for the dark blue, almost grey, in the catalogue of Stern...
Monochrome
Introduced in 2010, De Bethune’s DB28 family distils the essence of Denis Flageollet’s unique watchmaking style with its futuristic silhouette, floating lugs, delta-shaped barrel bridge, exposed balance wheel, and, more often than not, the brand’s signature blued titanium elements. In 2015, the DB28 was revisited in a sportier version with a 100m water-resistant case known […]
Monochrome
Moser hits the nail on the head when it states that for a straightforward three-hand watch to rise above the generic models populating the field, it requires perfect balance and proportions, high-end finishes and a unique touch. The new Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept ticks all the boxes with its well-finished, balanced case, captivating purple Grand […]
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is famous for using ceramics in its Royal Oak line. Some of the many highlights include the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Double Balance Wheel Openworked models. When it comes to specific colors, the first two that come to mind are the black and electric-blue shades that most of you will know. […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex has entered uncharted territory with the Land-Dweller, arguably the most advanced and radical creation from a hitherto conservative brand. The Land-Dweller is significant, perhaps even game changing, not because of the integrated bracelet or patented solid lume, but because of the cal. 7135, a new calibre with an all-new double-wheel escapement known as Dynapulse and a ceramic balance staff. (This story details the technical advances in the movement; for a review of the watch, check out the accompanying story.) The Land-Dweller 40 mm in platinum The fundamentals Why is it significant, or even game changing? The cal. 7135 is the first in-house, serial production Rolex movement that is high frequency, beating at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. All things being equal, a higher frequency promises superior timekeeping. Despite the higher frequency, the cal. 7135 still has a 66-hour power reserve. That’s thanks in part to the Dynapulse escapement which is 30% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while occupying essentially the same volume of space. The balance assembly of the cal. 7135 Dynapulse is one of several innovations that make the cal. 7135 a landmark, especially since it will be produced at scale. While Rolex has traditionally been associated with incremental innovation, the cal. 7135 is a revolution. The Land-Dweller is the subject of 32 filed patents, 18 of which are unique to the watch. Moreover, 16 of the patents unique to the watch are ...
Quill & Pad
Raúl Pagès goal for the RP2 was to design a timeless classic, where purity of form meets technical excellence. A watch that would serve as the foundation of his collection for years to come. Every detail, from the clean lines to the entirely in-house movement, reflects his pursuit of balance between apparent simplicity and absolute refinement.
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...
SJX Watches
Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields. The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...
SJX Watches
Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...
Fratello
Breguet introduced the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 back in 2015. The watch displayed awe-inspiring watchmaking inventiveness. How about two balance wheels, two gear trains, an arc-shaped minute totalizer, a power reserve indicator, and a mesmerizing open-worked look on both the front and back? What more could you ask for? Well, if I put on my […] Visit Introducing: A New Blue Outfit For The Awe-Inspiring Breguet Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
Worn & Wound
Search for “vintage watch” on Kickstarter and you’ll be met with page after page of watches that seek to capture the charm of watches from decades past. Some will be near-replicas that look more like carbon copies than modern interpretations. Others will find a balance of paying homage to iconic designs while still maintaining an air of originality. While the approaches vary, vintage inspired designs remain pervasive – they’re just about everywhere. Last year, Toronto based Fleux joined the ranks of brands crowdfunding their vintage inspired freshman releases with the FLX001 and FLX002– taking the amalgamation route by drawing inspiration from a variety of classic skin divers. The FLX001 featured chunky lume plots and a blocky orange hour hand that brought to mind images of Squale and Vulcain. The FLX002 featured a California dial, a layout of half Roman and half Arabic numerals that was popularized by brands like Rolex and Panerai. Changing gears to pay homage to a single watch rather than a genre, the FLX003 unapologetically draws its inspiration from the Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle- also known as the “Big T”. The Watch Lets address the elephant in the room: When considering a $500 NH38 powered Omega inspired dive watch, it’s fair to ask how it differs from the other Omega-inspired designs on the market. Afterall, a 200 meter, Seiko powered watch from Pagani Design can be yours for about $100. I’ve personally owned (and worn with pride) many of t...
SJX Watches
One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse. Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display. Initial thoughts Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial. Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication. Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Inverse German wa...
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