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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005 Feb 14, 2025

Review: Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 45GS SLGW005

Grand Seiko announced in September last year a vintage remake inspired by the 45GS of 1968, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation, which was launched as the SLGW005 in steel and the SLGW004 in yellow gold. In contrast to the many recent Grand Seiko releases with modern styling, the 45SG Re-creation is refreshing in being a revival of an iconic design, right down to the double-signed dial. Yet, the model also sports the brand’s latest generation manual-wind movement, the 9SA4. As the more accessible model of the two – retail is a little under US$10,000 – the steel SLGW005 deserves a closer look to understand how it smartly melds old and new. Initial thoughts Aesthetically, the SLGW005 stands out as a distinctively vintage design, from the case and dial to the buckle. This is all the more so since it is the first release since Grand Seiko’s rebranding in 2017, when all models eliminated “Seiko” in favour of only “Grand Seiko”, to feature the brand’s historical double-signed “Seiko” and “GS” dial. I am personally fond of this detail, as the double logo balances the dial aesthetically. But preferences aside, the external components are indeed excellent, from the dial work down to the faceted case. Despite the traditional exterior, the internals are modern – almost paradoxically so. Sporting the brand’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement, the 9SA4 inside is entirely different than the 1960s cal. 4520 found in the 45GS. On paper, it is a high-s...

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Permanent Collection Perhaps Feb 12, 2025

The Rose Gold SBGH368 Enters Grand Seiko’s Permanent Collection

Perhaps the crown jewel of Grand Seiko’s automatic watches, the 62GS was the brand’s first to feature an automatic movement. Vintage 62GS pieces championed subtlety with small crowns, “bezel-less” crystals, and smooth, polished edges. The 62GS has lived on through many contemporary iterations, and most hold on to that understated elegance as a key design feature. The current lineup of Heritage Collection pieces reflects almost all the hallmarks of the 62GS that it’s based on, albeit with dials themed for the 24 solar terms of the Japanese sekki.  Grand Seiko’s newest 62GS piece continues the seasonal motif of the Heritage Collection lineup but adds even more color by enveloping it in 18-karat rose gold. This rose gold reference, SBGH368 in the Grand Seiko catalog, is meant to symbolize cherry blossoms covered in snow, featuring a textured copper pink dial encased in a dual curve sapphire crystal. The indices, dauphine hands, date window frame, and screw-down crown match the case material, as does Grand Seiko’s logo positioned just above the brand’s name, below the double-thick 12 marker. An exhibition case back showcases the Hi-Beat 9S85 automatic movement, which features 37 jewels and a 55-hour power reserve, as well as 100-meter water resistance.  In terms of sizing, the SBGH368’s case measures 38mm in diameter and 12.9mm in thickness, maintaining the standard specs of the 62GS line. The 20mm lug width promises easy strap-swapping, though the included...

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” Feb 12, 2025

Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi”

In the great Grand Seiko tradition, the horological year starts early. We already covered the brand’s first releases of 2025 on January 31st, and Mike wrote about another on February 3rd. Now, less than two weeks into the month, Grand Seiko treats us to one more delight. Today, the brand announces the wonderful SBGH368 “Sakura […] Visit Introducing: The Absolutely Wonderful Grand Seiko SBGH368 “Sakura Kakushi” to read the full article.

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Scales Down Feb 12, 2025

Grand Seiko Scales Down the 62GS to 30 mm and Stays Mechanical

Grand Seiko’s latest offering is unusual – it’s a 30 mm self-winding model specifically conceived for ladies, in contrast to the vast majority of the Grand Seiko catalogue that’s made up of men’s or mid-sized watches. The Heritage Collection 62GS Mechanical 30 mm measures just 10.5 mm thick, making it the brand’s slimmest mechanical model to date. Notably, the new 62GS pair, STGK031 and STGK033, are the first to adopt a case design found on men’s watches, refining it for a smaller format as a ladies model. Initial thoughts In my view, the 62GS case stands out as the most appealing configuration in Grand Seiko’s extensive lineup. While it retains a distinctly Japanese design heritage, it remains one of the few Grand Seiko models that blends vintage and modern styles. As an owner of the 40 mm 62GS, I can personally attest to its versatility on the wrist, largely due to its slim case profile. The new 62GS 30 mm is essentially a scaled down version of the 40 mm model. It stands out for being the first ladies’ models that adapt a design of a men’s watch. In contrast, earlier Grand Seiko ladies watches had a cushion-shaped case that is arguably less appealing since it doesn’t have a distinctive Grand Seiko style. While Grand Seiko’s continued emphasis on nature-inspired dials may feel somewhat overused, the 62GS 30 mm is priced similar to its men’s counterpart and still represents good value. 62GS The Grand Seiko catalogue does include mid-sized watches...

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGH027 We reached Feb 3, 2025

A New Mt. Iwate Dial Arrives in the Grand Seiko SLGH027

We reached the point long ago where even the most dedicated Grand Seiko fans and collectors could be expected to keep up with the many, many different dial textures. Intricate textured dials are, at least as much as their famous Zaratsu polishing technique and fantastic family of movements, the thing that Grand Seiko has become most well known for during these last several years that have seen the brand grow at an extraordinary pace. I know for me personally, it’s all a little overwhelming, and while I love seeing all of the new textures and colors pop in watches as the collection grows, I remain biased toward one in particular that caught my eye at the beginning of my own interest in the brand. The first Grand Seiko I ever owned had a black “Mt. Iwate” textured dial, and for me it’s still the standard by which I judge all of the others against. That Mt. Iwate texture, to me, is just the right balance of eye catching and incredibly subtle – it can’t be detected at every angle, which is one of my favorite things about it. It’s also historically taken something of a backseat to the “Snowflake” and “Birch” textures, so it appeals to my natural tendency to root for the underdog.  Given my longstanding appreciation for the Mt. Iwate dial, I was happy to see news of the latest Grand Seiko release, the SLGH027, which brings a tweaked version of the Mt. Iwate texture to the Evolution 9 series of watches. The new texture, which appears to have thicker “ridg...

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Grand Seiko’s Feb 3, 2025

Radial “Mount Iwate” Patterned Dial for the Grand Seiko Evolution 9

Grand Seiko’s latest release, the Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 SLGH027 Limited Edition, is all about the textured dial as is typical of the brand. Inspired by the ridges of Mount Iwate, a volcano that’s near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi workshop, the radial dial motif is more deeply textured than earlier iterations of the “Mount Iwate” pattern. The rest of the watch is typical of the Evolution 9 “SLGH” model – a high-frequency automatic movement inside a Zaratsu-finish case in from Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary alloy with superior corrosion resistance and a brighter finish than conventional steel. Initial thoughts Of the many Grand Seiko dials, the new Mount Iwate motif stands out. While the latest dial shares the same radial style as the earlier “Mount Iwate” pattern, found on the Tentagraph SLGC001 amongst others, the dial of the SLGH027 has a deeper texture and more pronounced grooves, giving it an elevated aesthetic that is more striking. With so many variants, Grand Seiko’s textured dials are a little cliche at this point, but there is no denying that the watches are still impressively crafted and offer strong value, rivalling the strongest Swiss competition (except in terms of the bracelet). At US$10,500, the SLGH027 is priced similarly to equivalent prior models. While it is substantially more expensive than the average time-and-date Grand Seiko, the price is justified by the top-of-the-line cal. 9SA5, as well as the excellent case and dial wor...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Feb 3, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition

Today, Grand Seiko introduces the SLGH027 “Mountainscape,” a limited-edition watch celebrating the brand’s 65th anniversary. The piece features the automatic Hi-Beat 9SA5 caliber, which debuted in 2020. As part of the Evolution 9 collection, this watch is not retro at all but a modern reference with stunning details. Grand Seiko always has a strong start […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SLGH027 “Mountainscape” Hi-Beat 65th Anniversary Limited Edition to read the full article.

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Feb 3, 2025

Introducing – The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Mount Iwate Ice-Blue SLGH027

Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]

Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches Fratello
Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Jan 31, 2025

Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches

The reinterpreted Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki watches show bluer and greener dials than ever before. These 40mm watches also come in the brand’s Ever-Brilliant Steel for the first time. “GS” calls it a superalloy because it has a whiter sheen and greater corrosion resistance than conventional stainless steel. Both €8,000 watches also feature […] Visit Introducing: The Bluer And Greener Grand Seiko Heritage Collection 62GS Sekki Watches to read the full article.

Introducing – Grand Seiko Updates the Heritage 62GS Sekki Collection with the New Rikka SBGH351 and Shubun SBGH353 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Updates Jan 30, 2025

Introducing – Grand Seiko Updates the Heritage 62GS Sekki Collection with the New Rikka SBGH351 and Shubun SBGH353

Once upon a time (in 2019, to be precise), Grand Seiko released a quartet of watches known as the Sekki collection, models inspired by seasonal changes with colourful dials. Issued exclusively in the US and then made available worldwide, a single model dominates the Heritage 62GS Sekki collection, the much-hyped pink-toned SBGA413 Shunbun, closely followed […]

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session Fratello
Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Dec 23, 2024

Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session

Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” Dec 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium

Whenever I read the word “icefall,” my mind wanders to climbing Mount Everest. To reach the top of the world on the Nepal side of the mountain, you must pass the Khumbu Icefall early on to reach Camp 1. It’s a notoriously dangerous start to your journey to the summit. This is part of the […] Visit Hands-On With The Colorfully Elegant Grand Seiko SBGH349 “Icefall” In Titanium to read the full article.

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275 Dec 4, 2024

Hands On: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph SBGC275

Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...

The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More Fratello
Grand Seiko Nov 22, 2024

The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More

It has been a while since I bought a new watch. And by that, I mean not a pre-owned or vintage one. Just last weekend, I bought another vintage Constellation at a local auction to satisfy my hunger. One of the reasons I refrain from buying new watches these days is that prices of certain […] Visit The Fratello Watch List: RJ’s Pre-Owned And Vintage Favorites From Breguet, Lange, Grand Seiko, And More to read the full article.

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 44GS Nov 21, 2024

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia

Grand Seiko marks the second anniversary of its establishment in the Asia-Pacific with the Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” SBGJ285. Featuring a purple-pink dial inspired by the wisteria flower, this limited edition is based on the reinterpretation of the vintage 44GS and its distinctive wide-flanked case. The case and bracelet are in Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary steel alloy that’s harder and shinier than conventional watchmaking steel. Powered by the high-frequency automatic cal. 9S86, the SBGJ285 features “true GMT” functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand. Initial thoughts As a long-time fan of Grand Seiko, I love the patterned dials and Zaratsu case polishing. The SBGJ285 exemplifies the essence of Grand Seiko. Though Grand Seiko does put out a significant number of limited editions, this one stands out for its unusual purple-pink colour, which is a different shade from the “salmon” dials that are now in vogue. The watch also reflects the brand’s traditional strengths and weaknesses. The case and dial finishing are excellent, particularly at this price point. However, the bracelet is not as refined as sophisticated as that of the competition. That said, this will look good on a leather strap, especially given the vintage-inspired 44GS case pairs well with a strap. Conveniently, this limited edition is delivered with both a steel bracelet and a calfskin strap. Wisteria flower The limited edition retains the standard case of the “...