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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.
Revisiting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time: The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Mar 25, 2026

Revisiting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time: The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch

Is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time the ultimate luxury travel watch? We went hands-on to find out! What We Love The versatility of the piece, being a sports watch that dresses up or down Ease of use of the Dual Time function and quick set date The brushed silver dial really stands out with an easy-to-read layout. What We Don’t The watch can wear on the larger side, especially on the bracelet The bezel is prone to surface marks, like most polished metal bezels The strap thickness at the base tends to flare out a little, depending on your wrist shape and size Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 This article was originally published as Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch? There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move. With its sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as ...

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Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Apr 27, 2025

Auctions: A.-L. Breguet to F.P. Journe at Christie’s Geneva

Rare Watches in Geneva kicks off the spring auction season for Christie’s. Some of the highlights amongst the sale’s 183 lots illustrates the history and evolution of horology, most notably with timepieces by Abraham-Louis Breguet and Francois-Paul Journe. The notable F.P. Journe offerings include a Resonance pre-souscription and a Ruthenium full house, complete with numbered box. The standouts from Breguet include a pocket watch first owned by Pauline Bonaparte, Napoleon’s younger sister, an early striking carriage clock, and an intriguing Type XX precursor literally gone askew. F.P Journe Principally inspired by the work of A.-L. Breguet and Antide Janvier, Francois-Paul Journe’s landmark Chronomètre à Résonance was the first attempt at synchronised, coupled oscillators in a wristwatch. The first numbered 20 examples were reserved for a Breguet-style souscription series – paid in advance by the client – but were not the first made. Image – Christie’s A handful of pre-production watches were made for Basel 1999, followed by the pre-souscription series to which this watch belongs. About 20 watches starting from “21” onwards are pre-souscription, and this is “041/00R”. Notably, one example prior, “040/00R”, sold for a little under CHF1.4 million including fees at Christie’s in 2023, setting a record. Image – Christie’s  The Ruthenium collection, built in 99 examples each across five models from 2001 to 2005, includes the Octa Calendrie...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Mar 31, 2025

F.P. Journe Introduces the Chronomètre Furtif

As is tradition for F.P. Journe, the unique creation made for the most recent Only Watch has now evolved into a regular production watch, the Chronomètre Furtif, that has the same dimensions and movement, but an entirely different material and style. The Chronomètre Furtif is striking, all-black sports watch that is almost entirely in tungsten carbide, a hard and strong material typical used for tooling. The furtif, or “stealthy”, aspect is enhanced by the tone-on-tone fired enamel dial in dark grey with laser engraved markings that are primarily visible to the wearer. Initial thoughts The Chronomètre Furtif is expected because of the Only Watch edition that came before it – and because Francois-Paul Journe has talked about it – but it is novel amongst F.P. Journe watches for the all-black look. That said, it is still recognisable as an F.P. Journe as it inherits many elements from the lineSport. In the hand, the Chronomètre Furtif is almost entirely black at many angles, though the mirror-like dial is highly reflective. And it is impressively heavy at some 250 g, though it sits well because the case is wide and flat. But most of all, the low-key look is arguably all the more appropriate given the fame of the maker and the desirability of his watches. At this moment in time I would absolute love a furtif F.P. Journe rather than a highly recognisable model like the Elegante or Chronomètre Bleu. The cal. 1522 inside Stealth and l0w-key The Chronometre Furtif ret...

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Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos Dual Time Mar 29, 2025

Review: Luxury & Precision With The Cartier Santos Dual Time

The Santos de Cartier Dual Time was a hit at Watches & Wonders 2024. So with one week to go until we’re back in Geneva for this year’s fair, why not review the perfect travel companion? What We Love The two-tone grey dial works incredibly well The dark grey alligator leather strap gives the watch a whole new look The versatility of the watch for different occasions What We Don’t Lack of fine adjustment on the bracelet (Still) There could have been more contrast in the dial to aid legibility in low light Could lumed numerals make this more of a complete swatch? Overall Score: 9/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 This will be a review with a difference. Normally when one of us at Watch Advice reviews a watch, we try not to review another one that is very similar to it, rather we would opt for another team member to do it and give you their experience with it. After all, we all have different tastes in watches, dress styles and most importantly, wrist size. But, I decided to break the rules a little with this one. I reviewed the Santos de Cartier Large Brown Dial in June last year, but while I was reviewing that, I kept thinking it would be great to have reviewed the new Dual Time as well. So fast-forward almost a year later and we got our hands on the Dual Time thanks to our friends at Cartier and without giving too much away too early, I think it’s better… First Impressions The Santos dual time was one of the major rele...

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch? WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review Mar 24, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch?

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time is a piece I’ve wanted to review for a while now, and finally, my wish has come true. So, how did it live up to expectations? What We Love The versatility of the piece being a sports watch that dresses up or down Ease of use of the Dual Time function and quick set date The brushed silver dial really stands out with an easy to read layout. What We Don’t The watch can wear on the larger side, especially on the bracelet The bezel is prone to surface marks, like most polished metal bezels The strap thickness at the base tends to flare out a little depending on your wrist shape and size Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move. With its sporty-yet-sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as his normal go-to travel piece, this is saying something. But, first, ...

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Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 15, 2025

Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways

Even though the Astron GPS Solar is 13 years old, I still find the tech fascinating because of the constant evolution of the movement and the design. So, of course, I was interested to read the press release accompanying the release of the edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 in four new colorways. […] Visit Introducing: The Edgy Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph 5X83 In Four New Colorways to read the full article.

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Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million Nov 28, 2024

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

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F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Nov 9, 2024

F.P. Journe Tourbillon is the Most Expensive Watch by an Independent

The first wristwatch ever sold by François-Paul Journe is now the most expensive timepiece made by an independent watchmaker: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” just sold for CHF7.32 million (equivalent to US$8.36 million), including fees, at Phillips in Geneva. Delivered in 1993 to an astute Parisian collector, the watch was the second wristwatch ever made by Mr Journe. He retained possession of the first wristwatch, which now resides in his museum. As far as François-Paul Journe is an important watchmaker, Tourbillon “15/93” is an important watch – a fact proven by the hefty price. Despite the headline number, the bidding for Tourbillon “15/93” was unexpectedly truncated. As soon as auctioneer Aurel Bacs opened the bidding at a mere CHF1 million, Paul Boutros shouted a CHF5 million bid, causing a stir in the room. Mr Boutros, the watch department chief for the Americas, was bidding on behalf of a client on the phone who is perhaps the world’s biggest F.P. Journe collector. The huge opening bid quickly eliminated all other bidders – there were a half dozen other phone bidders – save for one gentleman in the room who has good taste and an impressive collection of independent watchmaking. The gentleman in the room made two more bids but bowed out (though he did win another notable timepiece during the sale), leaving Mr Boutros’ client to walk away with the watch for CHF6 million hammer, which is CHF7.32 million with fees. Th...

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In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Nov 4, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype

One of the most significant examples of contemporary watchmaking, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” will soon go on the block at Phillips. Consigned by the estate of the original owner – meaning it’s a one-owner watch for over three decades – the “15/93” prototype carries within it the magic of independent watchmaking to a degree that rivals the landmark timepieces like the George Daniels Space Traveller’s Watch. The history of this tourbillon is well known: it is the second wristwatch made by François-Paul Journe, and the first one he sold. In early 1992 he sold it to a Parisian collector for a price that in hindsight is profoundly ridiculous, but was probably an extraordinary price to pay for a watch like this at the time. The gentleman who bought it owned it for some 32 years and clearly wore it often. There is no doubt he understood what the watch represented, even years ago before it was valuable, because he retained all of the original documentation that came with the watch, including copies of the technical plans. To the late original owner of this watch: you have my respect and admiration. “Prototype” Although I describe this as a prototype, it more accurately one specimen of a small series of hand-made watches. This series formed the template for the later Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité that was produced on a larger scale, albeit only numbering in the dozens, initially by hand and then with more industrial met...

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Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Sep 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158

It’s been only a few months since Seiko introduced the first Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs with the new caliber 5X83. Today, the Japanese brand unveils a quartet of chronographs powered by the same movement. The line is expanding with the standard-production SSH159, SSH161, and SSH163. Additionally, we get a titanium and ceramic limited edition, […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158 to read the full article.

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In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Sep 12, 2024

In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical

The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...

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Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, an Owner’s Perspective Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs Aug 31, 2024

Split Decision: Patek Philippe Reference 5370P vs. A. Lange & Söhne Double Split Chronographs, an Owner’s Perspective

If there were a watch enthusiasts’ encyclopedia, under “embarrassment of riches” the image might just be a side-by-side shot two of contemporary watchmaking’s great complicated pieces: the “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Patek Philippe’s Reference 5370P split-second chronograph. In this article, GaryG compares and contrasts them to come out with a winner.

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Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition Fratello
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Aug 29, 2024

Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition

We’re in the thick of Geneva Watch Days 2024. For some brands, this means debuting novelties. Today, Armin Strom brings us the Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition, an all-new take on the brand’s well-known complication. Folks, this one’s a beauty. Armin Strom is no stranger to creating highly complicated Haute Horlogerie timepieces. The […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance – First Edition to read the full article.

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Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Aug 27, 2024

Auction: F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité Prototype at Phillips

The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.  

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Introducing – The F.P. Journe Chronograph FB, a Classic(ish) Hand-Wound Chrono and the Last of the Limited Editions Monochrome
F.P. Journe Chronograph FB May 23, 2024

Introducing – The F.P. Journe Chronograph FB, a Classic(ish) Hand-Wound Chrono and the Last of the Limited Editions

Let’s get straight to the point, as there are a few important things to know about this watch. This is a new, unprecedented watch, despite being a commemorative and limited piece. It is also the first hand-wound chronograph (no split-seconds) of F.P. Journe. It is released in the frame of the 20th anniversary of the […]

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F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Last-Ever Limited Edition May 23, 2024

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB

To mark 20 years of its first boutique, and also 20 years of limited editions, F.P. Journe has created its final limited edition of any sort. Limited to 200 pieces, the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB is a flyback chronograph with big date that’s powered by the manual-wind cal. 1518.2. Like past boutique anniversary editions, this has a titanium case with pink gold accents. Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic attributes, the Chronographe FB scores well on all counts. It is a good looking watch that is priced well. The FB doesn’t depart from the established aesthetic for boutique editions, which is a good thing since the titanium-and-gold combination is appealing. The watch is classical F.P. Journe in terms of dimensions at 40 mm wide and just over 10 mm high, which makes it elegantly slim. Styling aside, the FB is also notable as it is equipped with a new calibre. Few brands design new movements for a small-run limited edition. Admittedly the cal. 1518.2 inside is based on the current split-seconds movement, but it is still a new, different construction. Technically, the movement is not as much of an achievement as say the FFC or Vagabondage III, but it is executed well, and the watch is priced right for the complication. As is typical for majority of F.P. Journe watches, the Chronographe FB is reasonably priced at retail, just CHF90,000 before taxes. Accessibility, rather than affordability, is instead the problem. That’s true despite the 200 piece run is bigger than...

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Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Established Apr 21, 2024

Thomas Aubert Wins 2024 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Established in 2015, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition is an annual affair to recognise the next generation of watchmakers. Applicants present a timepiece of their own design and construction, which is judged by on its complexity, craftsmanship, and aesthetics by a jury including Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, and Francois-Paul Journe. While last year’s winner was a Swiss-Italian clockmaker, this year’s winner is 23-year-old Frenchman Thomas Aubert, who entered his wristwatch Séléné, a unique piece crafted in his final year at the Edgar Faure High School in Morteau, France. Amongst the standout features of the Séléné is its key-winding and -setting as well as the clever “shooting star” display on the back. The Séléné pays tribute to classical watchmaking in both style and technique, but each reinterpreted with a modern twist. As is often the case with such school watches, the movement is based on the Unitas 6497, although it underwent extensive reworking. For example, the timepiece doesn’t feature a crown; instead winding and time-setting are done via a key that goes into dedicated slots on the case back.  The front of the Séléné is classical and tastefully done, with a “grated” finish on the dial that is set on a frosted plate backdrop. The exposed balance bridge is mirror polished and chamfered. The screwed balance beats at 2.5 Hz and features a prominent Breguet overcoil hairspring. Mr Aubert is fascinated by astronomy, a passion that he...

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Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Mar 19, 2024

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156

As you may have read on Fratello before, Seiko is celebrating the 100th anniversary of having this brand name on its watches’ dials this year. The house is introducing limited anniversary editions of new models throughout the year to commemorate this. Today, the Astron line sees a big new release, including an anniversary LE. These […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph SSH151, SSH153, SSH155, And Limited SSH156 to read the full article.

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