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Results for The COMEX Submariner Story

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.

A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art? Fratello
Jul 23, 2026

A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art?

During lunch with Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi from the auction house Phillips, I started wondering out loud, “When are watches art?” What sparked my question was last month’s Phillips auction, which was the highest-grossing watch auction in US history. The sale made a record US$75.8 million, and every single lot was sold. No fewer […] Visit A Difficult Question That Needs Answering: When Are Watches Art? to read the full article.

Dispatch: From The World's Factory To A Watchmaking Culture: What I Saw At Shenzhen Watch Week Hodinkee
Behrens CIGA Design Jul 14, 2026

Dispatch: From The World's Factory To A Watchmaking Culture: What I Saw At Shenzhen Watch Week

Shenzhen Watch Week is China's premier annual event dedicated to the watch industry. More than just a trade show, it brings together established brands, independent watchmakers, suppliers, and manufacturers, offering perhaps the clearest snapshot of where Chinese watchmaking stands today. For anyone interested in understanding the industry beyond its reputation as "the world's factory," there are few better places to start. There are surprisingly few opportunities anywhere in the world to experience so many Chinese watch brands under one roof. Switzerland has Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days, while Japan hosts brand presentations, watch fairs, and events such as Tokyo Watch Week. But an exhibition devoted almost entirely to Chinese watchmaking is something quite different.  In recent years, brands such as Behrens, CIGA Design, and Fam al Hut have begun attracting international attention, winning prestigious awards, and demonstrating that China is capable of far more than manufacturing for others. Yet outside China, it remains virtually impossible to see these brands together or experience their watches firsthand. That is why, when I received an invitation to attend Shenzhen Watch Week, I wanted to see for myself what is happening in Chinese watchmaking today. Watches made in China are, of course, nothing unusual. Many of the world's leading brands—including Swiss manufacturers—rely on Chinese suppliers for cases, dials, bracelets, hands, movement components, an...

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces Mar 13, 2026

Serica Introduces the 5330 Dive Chronometer

One of watchmaking’s simplest but most iconic complications, the date window, is the source of much admiration, and yes, a little bit of ire. One of the biggest points of contention on any inclusion of a date window is the balancing of it on the dial; after all, how do you place it to not ruin the symmetry (or asymmetry) of a carefully-crafted design? With their new Ref. 5330 Dive Chronometer, Serica has chosen a sleek solution for their first date window inclusion: nestle it at 3 o’clock, taking the place of the marker, and give it a crisp red accent to stand out. Sure, it’s not necessarily revolutionary, but it adds a sophisticated touch to an already clean dial. The core tenets of the 5330’s design carry over from other models in Serica’s Dive Chronometer lineup, with circular hour markers and a double graduation bezel being the most recognizable, and a 39mm 316L stainless steel case housing an identical SoProd M100 Swiss automatic movement. The matte black dial and anthracite-grey outer bezel ring contrast with the steel of the inner bezel and case, and the cream Super-LumiNova on the hands and hour markers. Similarly, the cream date window and red numeral add both a sense of cohesion and a highly legible flash of color to give the dial an extra layer of aesthetic complication. It’s certainly a welcome addition visually, and keeps the design from feeling too austere.  At 12.2mm in thickness and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, the 5330 is sized well for most wrists, and...

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Seasonal Releases, Rolex in Brooklyn, and the Leica SL3 Reporter Worn & Wound
Rolex Nov 8, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Seasonal Releases, Rolex in Brooklyn, and the Leica SL3 Reporter

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Tactile Turn Unveils Their Newest Seasonal Edition While EDC is a very serious subject, Tactile Turn likes to have some fun with their season pen releases. While past themes have ranged from baseball to pirates, their newest release takes the collection to new depths. Aptly named “Deep Sea”, the current seasonal release sports a mix of blue tones while a top layer of “typhoon” cerakote adds a subtle teal shimmer. Built on the iconic Switch platform, both the standard and short model feature a Navy Mark V dive helmet on the clip and a bronze switch to round out the nautical touch. Releasing on November 11th, this collection will be available to purchase until December 31st when it sinks for good.   Coming Soon: Rolex in Williamsburg, Brooklyn In a recent Brooklyn Magazine article, it was announced that Rolex will soon be joining the ranks of Williamsburg’s high-end storefronts. Originally discovered by The Commercial Observer and publicly shared by BK MAG, Rolex has signed a 15 year lease for 86 North 6th Street, directly across the street from Glossier and Nike. This boutique will be Rolex’s second stand alone store in the city, and it’s first in Brookly...

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Oct 31, 2025

Aubert Ramel Debuts with the Ouréa

While Aubert and Ramel is a new brand, and the Ouréa is a new watch, Thomas Aubert and Alexis Ramel-Sartori aren’t new to independent watchmaking, both having worked for a prominent name in the space. That experience is evident in a strong – and decidedly on-trend – debut that stands out even in a crowded market. Initial Thoughts It seems there are many finely decorated time-only watches on the market today; the two contributed to some of the better ones in their earlier careers. Now the pair strike out under their own name, and unsurprisingly, their first watch is quite good. Though the duo seem to know that already, as they have priced it close to, just a little below, leading independents. The Ouréa’s “scraped” dial brings to mind the wildly successful Chronomètre Artisans from Simon Brette. That probably isn’t coincidental, as the two both worked for Simon Brette. However, I perceive an even stronger, and more general, influence of Greubel Forsey in the Ouréa. It also calls back to Thomas Aubert’s Séléné, winner of last year’s F.P. Journe young talent competition. The scintillating teal accents, applied by atomic layer deposition, are a nice touch to set the watch apart, and the hands are incredibly well made. Interestingly, the filling in the hands is white lacquer rather than luminous material. That seems like a missed opportunity as the appearance would be nearly identical if it were lumed. It is also a shame that Mr Aubert’s recoiling sho...

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Fratello
IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch Feb 2, 2025

Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch

On a recent trip to a series of massive dunes on Australia’s east coast, I had to contend with what watch to take. In the end, I decided to take the IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch due to its ceramic construction. You see, ceramic cases offer several advantages over stainless steel. One of those is the […] Visit Photographing Giant Dunes With The IWC RAAF Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches Fratello
Patek Philippe May 18, 2024

Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches

We’ve all heard it: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This advertising slogan became almost as iconic as the watches themselves. That’s understandable, too, considering how it tugs at the heartstrings and strongly implies superior quality. But what charges a watch with heirloom quality? And […] Visit Pass It On - The Heirloom Quality Of Properly Made Watches to read the full article.

First Look - The New Editions of the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration Carl May 6, 2024

First Look - The New Editions of the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Chronometer Celebration

Carl F. Bucherer embraces almost every facet of watchmaking. Operating since 1888, Carl F. Bucherer started retailing luxury watches and jewellery in Lucerne before going international. In 1919, Bucherer spotted another niche and began manufacturing its own branded watches. With a rich archive of material, Carl F. Bucherer’s Heritage collection is home to reeditions of […]

Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee with the Seiko 5 Sports SPRK39 SJX Watches
Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee Sep 20, 2023

Seiko Remembers Bruce Lee with the Seiko 5 Sports SPRK39

Twenty-twenty-three marks the 50th anniversary of the passing of the Hong Kong-American martial artist, actor, and cultural icon who tragically died at the age of 32. In honour of Bruce Lee’s legacy, Seiko has launched the Seiko 5 Sports Bruce Lee Limited Edition SPRK39, an affordable sports watch typical of Seiko but with an unusual all-black livery featuring subtle gold accents. Based on its entry-level sports watch, the edition’s launch also coincides with the 55th anniversary of the original Seiko 5 Sports. Retaining the same case and design as the regular production model, this limited edition incorporates Asian themes in its design as a homage to the iconic actor, including a dragon on the dial in a reference to Bruce Lee’s name. Initial thoughts It is perhaps long overdue that Seiko creates a timepiece to commemorate Bruce Lee, who was photographed on several occasions wearing a Seiko 5. The use of traditional Chinese elements are not groundbreaking, and might have even been kitschy, but fortunately an all-black look prevents this from resembling a gaudy souvenir. While this watch does evoke a certain nostalgia, it doesn’t quite have the vintage styling of the Seiko 5 model that Lee himself wore. I would have preferred an edition based the design on that or even other vintage models from the period. That would, however, probably result in a pricier watch that is a vintage remake. Priced at US$495, the Bruce Lee edition is US$135 more expensive than the stand...

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver There are Jun 9, 2023

Hands-On: the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Diver

There are plenty of things we can choose to be frustrated by in the watch world. Rising prices, the increased importance of mysterious social media algorithms, outright chicanery, nonsense, and shenanigans in the auction world. Yes, these are forces contributing to making the hobby a little less enjoyable at times. But I like to focus on the bright spots, of which I’d argue there are more than enough to get excited about. One of those bright spots is the reemergence and wide availability of affordably priced, classic designs from thoughtfully resurrected heritage brands. Guillaume Laidet has become something of a specialist in this area, playing an integral role in the return of Vulcain, Excelsior Park, and Nivada Grenchen, the subject of this hands-on.  For a time, it seemed like a month couldn’t pass without a “new” brand that went dormant during the quartz crisis coming back with an updated version of their most popular model. So many of these attempts to capitalize on the popularity of vintage, neo-vintage, or whatever we’re calling it wound up failing, but the Nivada Grenchen strategy always felt different, and the brand continues to be successful a few years out from the relaunch because of Laidet’s forward thinking. Beyond the overall quality of the watches, which is consistently high, Nivada has always been presented as a real brand, and not simply a vehicle for launching one, or maybe two, watches. The idea of having a real collection for consumers to...

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Ming old pocket watch movements Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...