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Fratello
As soon as the Hanhart 415 ES came out, I knew a hands-on experience with it would be a load of fun. The quirky design matched with a decent set of specifications would surely make for an enjoyable review. This is not the first time I’ve reviewed a watch from this German watchmaker. Last year, […] Visit Hands-On With The Hanhart 415 ES Chronograph to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...
Worn & Wound
There is always a risk when a product gets an upgrade (Crystal Pepsi, anyone?), but this is especially a touchy subject in the watch world. We, as collectors and enthusiasts, tend to keep things as they are. Small updates? Sure. Bold colorways? Absolutely. But being told there is a completely new design? Well, now I’m a bit weary. Luckily for me, I’ve been proven wrong by Farer. They’ve recently relaunched their GMT Bezel collection, boasting – you guessed it – a completely new design. Previous iterations of this model were a core offering of the brand, showcasing the balance between bold design language and a classic case style. Now, we see a new (and dare I say improved?) set of GMT Bezels on the market, whose main feature is the concave “ski-slope” lugs first seen on the Chrono-Contempo Collection. If variety is the spice of life, then the GMT Bezels are pretty damn spicy. Coming in two size options (40mm and 38mm) and four colorways, this is a series that has a bit of something for everyone. I’ll review each of the four color options briefly, giving you a taste of how distinct – and yet cohesive – each reference feels. For the 40mm models, one can choose from Maze and Crooms options. Maze has a pearlescent grid patterned dial complemented by shades of glossy black, light blue, and red. Crooms exemplifies Farer’s in-house design language, with a clean overall design and a bold colorway mixed with additional pops of color. With its burgundy dial i...
SJX Watches
A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...
Monochrome
Panerai’s watches were born with saltwater in their veins. Designed for Italian Navy frogmen on the eve of WWII, Panerai’s rugged Radiomir not only timed their secret underwater missions and detonations, but its luminous radioactive radium-based paste lit up the murky depths. Panerai has always cultivated strong ties to all things nautical, including the purchase […]
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Worn & Wound
Few things in your everyday carry (EDC) kit are as important as the bag that holds it all together. Huckberry and GORUCK are both known for their quality craftsmanship and robust product designs capable of withstanding a lifetime of use. Their collaboration on the GR1 Slick backpack brings together GORUCK’s mission-ready form factor with Huckberry’s aesthetic aptitude. Whether you’re a seasoned adventurer or someone who just values durable, functional gear, the Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 Slick is a game-changer in the world of EDC. The Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 Slick comes in both a 21L and 26L option. For this review, I went hands-on with the 21L in ranger green, though both options are also offered in black and coyote colorways. I had familiarity with GORUCK and its reputation within the military community before receiving this bag, and was curious to see if my experience with it lived up to the hype. GORUCK founder Jason McCarthy, a former Green Beret, wanted to create a product that could take a beating and continue performing under extreme conditions. The GR1 was originally designed as a bag that could withstand the intense demands of special forces operations. I am not a veteran myself, but I’m fortunate to have a close circle of veteran friends, one of whom kindly lent me his well-loved GORUCK GR2 for comparison. Though his backpack is 40L, nearly twice the capacity of mine, it was helpful to have something older with which to compare the Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 S...
Worn & Wound
On March 9th, 2024, the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day occurred in Westminster, London, England. Organized by the Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, this event was celebrated as the premier watch gathering in the U.K. More than 40 brands participated, including Christopher Ward, Elliot Brown, Isotope, and even Roger W. Smith. The event was by all accounts a success, so it’s no surprise that a second event has been scheduled for Saturday, March 8th. One of the 2024 exhibitors was Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Our very own Garrett Jones had a hands-on experience with their Forest Green Element watch in December 2024, and he enjoyed it. For this year’s British Watchmakers’ Day event, Beaucroft has collaborated with Bristol-based artist Tim Gresham, known as Penfold, to create the Penfold Special Edition watch. Penfold’s portfolio includes abstract paintings, screen printing, large-scale murals, and immersive installations. He has exhibited in galleries worldwide and collaborated with iconic brands. His influences range from skateboard graphics and Memphis-style furniture to artists like Tom Wesselmann and Eduardo Paolozzi from the Pop Art movement and contemporary figures like MOMO and KAWS. Based on their Element platform, the matte-finished white dial provided a blank canvas for Penfold to showcase his artwork. Apart from the rehaut and hands, the rest of the design is Penfold’s creation. From the supplied images, the airbrushed design elements app...
WatchAdvice
For LVMH Watch Week, Zenith adds to their Defy Skyline collection, taking their Defy Skyline Chronograph and giving it the skeleton treatment. And it’s good! What We Love The skeleton dial looks stunning, especially in blue It has a great wrist presence Quick change strap and bracelet makes it easy to change looks What We Don’t No date! But I can maybe overlook that. Bracelet has no micro-adjust, so a perfect fit isn’t as easy to achieve The lume could be brighter on the hands and indices Overall Score: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 For those of you who are familiar with Zenith’s Defy Skyline range the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton will be a watch that has come as no surprise to you. It’s the natural evolution of the Defy Skyline range as we saw last year with the Defy Skyline Skeleton coming out and then the Defy Skyline Chronograph. This new model does justice to both of those models in a fusion that works wonderfully well. RELATED READING: Hands On Review With The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph So when I heard that the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph was getting a makeover and the skeleton treatment, I was a little excited to see how these would look, and more importantly, how they looked on the wrist in daylight. If I cast my mind back to the middle of last year when I had the trio of Skyline Chronographs at my disposal, I recall that they all looked great and felt great on the wrist. I ended ...
Worn & Wound
Watching Christopher Ward’s progression over the last twenty years has been a joy. From a plucky micro-brand, it has grown into the most significant watch brand in the UK. When watch industry veteran Mike Pearson joined their team as North American Brand Director about a year ago, I knew our side of the pond was in for a treat. It wasn’t long before he took Christopher Ward on the road throughout the continent, and luckily for me, one of the stops was in my backyard. We had been friends for years online, and this was finally an opportunity to meet in person. Seeing many Christopher Ward watches in the metal was also a great opportunity. It was a real treat to experience the Bel Canto in person and handle the newly released C60 Lumière dive watches. I was also incredibly excited to see the Twelve X, a piece I had written about a few months earlier. One item that was notably missing from the lineup was their Oracle collaborative piece, the C65 Dune Shoreline. This omission was understandable since it was limited to just 100 pieces. However, if you liked that design, we have some great news. Christopher Ward is launching a new collection called C65 Dune Aeolian, featuring textured wave dials, available in two case materials, with a GMT option. The Dune Aeolian Automatic features the stainless steel C65 light catcher case, which has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 11.9mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 43.7mm. This makes it universally wearable on wrists of all sizes. Ther...
Monochrome
Nomos, the independent German watch brand based in Glashütte, the cradle of Germany’s finest watchmaking traditions, was founded in 1990 and has earned a merited reputation for high-quality craftsmanship, in-house movements and minimalist designs. As the largest producer of mechanical watches in Germany, Nomos is also keen to lend a helping hand to humanitarian associations […]
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Monochrome
One of France’s oldest family-owned and run luxury companies, Hermès started life in 1837 as a producer of harnesses and saddles in Paris. Renowned for its impeccable artisanal craftsmanship and intrepid artistic flair, Hermès manages to endow its watches with a singular dash of poetry. The equestrian-inspired profile of the Arceau, which has hosted poetic […]
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...
SJX Watches
Ming has unveiled the 37.09 Uni, the latest addition to its line of dive watches. Sharing the same architecture as its predecessor-the 37.09 Bluefin, the “Uni” has a black-and-orange aesthetic along with 600 m of water resistance. According to Ming, the livery of the 37.09 Uni takes inspiration from the sea urchin, uni in Japanese. The watch features a DLC-coated stainless steel case and an orange scaled on the inner sapphire dial that measures elapsed time. Initial thoughts I appreciate the distinctive Ming aesthetic with its signature flared lugs and minimalist here. Here it’s combined with a sapphire dial and subtle orange accents, and the result is appealing. The 37.09 Uni, however, costs CHF5,250, which is steep price tag for what it is. Although the overall execution is elaborate, it’s still a micro-brand dive watch equipped with an inexpensive (albeit customised) Sellita movement. While there was a moment during the pandemic where micro-brand offerings somehow made sense at various points of the price spectrum, due in part to the unavailability of everything else, but that time has passed. For Ming fans, the new diver is an appealing watch, but for everyone else there are alternatives. Uni Designed in the familiar Ming style, the DLC-coated stainless steel case is compact at 38 mm in diameter, though it has the height of a dive watch at 12.8 mm in thickness. Entirely matte brushed, the case sports a stepped bezel and domed sapphire crystal. Two oversized c...
Monochrome
Gerald Charles, the watch brand founded by the late watch designer Gérald Genta in 2000 and now in the hands of Federico Zivani, celebrates its 25th anniversary with two special editions of its flagship Maestro watch. As a brand that relies on one case design alone, it is surprising how much variety it has introduced […]
WatchAdvice
It’s LVMH Watch Week and TAG Heuer has dropped a new Carrera Chronosprint – the Porsche Rallye in black. We went hands-on with it prior to the launch to see how the new variant handles. What We Love Good size for most wrists and wears slightly smaller than the specs suggest The unique chronograph movement is a bit of fun Vintage styling is a nice touch What We Don’t The bracelet could use more of a taper as well as a quick change option Still no screw-down crown on a 100m sports watch Setting an accurate reference time isn’t as easy due to the small minute track Overall Score 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 It’s no secret that TAG Heuer and Porsche share a long history, both in a shared name, the Carrera, stemming from the Carrera Panamericana race, as well as an association with each other. There have been numerous TAG Heuer x Porsche pieces over the years, but one of the more unique pieces was the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche TAG Heuer, which was developed and launched in late 2023. We didn’t do a hands-on review on this piece at the time, more like a pseudo-review as we did have the watch for the day prior to launch and were able to play with it and see how it looked and wore on the wrist. We also showcased the strange, but cool way it tracks the time on the chronograph, mimicking the original Porsche 911’s time of 0-100km/h in 9.1 seconds using a specially designed snail gear in the chronograph mec...
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Teddy Baldassarre
While Tiffany & Co. sparks immediate associations with its signature robin’s egg blue boxes, Art Nouveau lamps, and perhaps a certain Audrey Hepburn film, the jeweler does have a rich horological history that can be traced back to the mid-19th century. This week, the brand (now part of French luxury group LVMH) doubles down on its commitment to high horology in this century, releasing four distinct new watches that reinterpret the American high jeweler’s lengthy legacy for the contemporary watchmaking landscape. Debuting a collection of four new pieces, Tiffany & Co. cuts through the sense of stark minimalism that so often pervades modern design in favor of unabashed, maximalist opulence. Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel Watch Selfishly, it seems only fitting to begin with my personal favorite among the four new releases. Featuring a swirling-patterned enamel dial, 18k white-gold case, and hour markers set with diamonds of various shapes, the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel infuses the brand’s well-established Eternity line of watches with the flair of one of its most sought-after lamp designs – the Wisteria Tiffany lamp. “Iconic” is often overused in the popular lexicon when referring to classic designs, and I try to use it sparingly. But in the case of Tiffany lamps — with their intricate latticework, motifs that draw upon the natural world, and the bold interplay of color, which only becomes more compelling as the light filters through their var...
Monochrome
The famous New York jewellery company Tiffany & Co. is forever lodged in our memories thanks to Breakfast at Tiffany’s opening scene as Audrey Hepburn looks longingly at jewels in the window display. Louis Comfort Tiffany, son of the founder of Tiffany, became design director in 1902 and was an influential figure in the Art […]
Worn & Wound
Was there ever any doubt that this was where this year was headed? Ever since it was announced that LVMH, and specifically TAG Heuer, would be taking over Formula 1 timekeeping responsibilities from Rolex as part of a broader 10-year partnership between the two, it was clear that 2025 would (for TAG Heuer) be all about racing. We just didn’t know what that would look like, at least when it came to the watches. Now we do, and surprise, surprise, TAG Heuer is kicking it off with a brand new generation of (what else?) The Formula 1 Chronograph. Motorsport and TAG Heuer have long been linked (something Zach recently explored), and one obvious example of this is the Formula 1. TAG Heuer launched the first generation of the Formula 1 way back in the ‘80s, and the simple, colorful, quartz watch helped to clearly establish a new sensibility for the brand. Since then, the Formula 1 has evolved, eschewing the almost toy-like quality of the earliest releases to bear the name and moving upmarket while still acting as the clear entry point into the brand’s chronograph offering - a quartz Formula 1 can still be had for under $2000, an almost shocking price tag in the context of the modern market. These new Formula 1s are a decided step up from those watches but still come in under the price of the latest generation of Carrera chronographs. The watches themselves are bold and clearly represent a step into a new generation of design language for the Formula 1 - a refreshing chan...
Monochrome
Among the many partnerships between automotive brands and watchmakers, the collaboration between TAG Heuer and Porsche stands out as one of the most seamless and authentic despite being recent – since 2021. This synergy has given rise to special edition timepieces that captivate enthusiasts well beyond the racing world – the Carrera Porsche Chronograph, then […]
Worn & Wound
I’m long on the record as being an unabashed fan of the Zenith Defy. If you search this website or listen to old podcasts, you’ll find plenty of instances of me saying that the Defy is my all time favorite line of sports watches, period. For as long as the Defy has existed, it’s been a showcase for Zenith at their most adventurous, both technically and aesthetically, and a reflection of the larger watch landscape at the current moment, whatever that happens to be. I’ve often framed my discussions of the Defy around wishing for a resurgence of the collection, which through the years has too often been ignored in favor of other objectively more popular Zenith collections, but with the release of the new Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton, it occurs to me that we really do, finally, have a fully fleshed out Defy collection, and Zenith is doing anything but ignoring it. The Defy Skyline effectively replaced the Defy Classic, a much loved (by enthusiasts) line of medium sized and quite thin sports watches that were available in both steel and ceramic cases. Running on Zenith’s Elite movements, they were design oriented pieces, and the skeletonized versions in particular really spoke to me. Zenith introduced a skeletonized version of the Skyline in 2023 (also at LVMH Watch Week), and now we have the chrono version, something that wouldn’t have been possible in the Elite-based Defy Classic. Part of the appeal of the Skyline, even in the non-chronograph variants, is the...
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Teddy Baldassarre
When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...
Worn & Wound
LVMH Watch Week has quickly become a yearly staple on the release calendar for watch enthusiasts since its inaugural year in 2020. A mix of novelties and staple collections have graced the headlines acting as a special kickoff to the new year and this year is no different. What immediately caught my eye though was a pair of Carrera Chronographs sporting a new-to-the-model dial color. Enter the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and Tourbillon in purple. Equipped with a smoky black-to-purple gradient backdrop, the Glassbox design family continues to grow. Following the release of the TAG Heuer Monaco Purple Dial in 2022, I had assumed that we would see this color trend carried throughout the rest of the catalog. With that model being discontinued and somewhat hard to come by, it is not surprising that the tourbillon model was also slapped with the LE designation. What is a surprise though is that the standard Carrera Chronograph is not limited and is entering standard production. This will hopefully give those lusting to add an excellent pop of purple into their collection the opportunity as these begin to trickle out to authorized retailers, though I do suspect that they will still be a bit hard to come by immediately. By far the standout feature of the watch is its appearance. Appearing almost black in medium to low light conditions, the purple breaks through in direct light playing with its sunray-brushed surface. The effect lends dimensionality and versatility to the design ...
Worn & Wound
I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...
Worn & Wound
Like many of you, I assume, my passion for watches stems from an interest and nerdery for gear. Finding the perfect piece of kit, playing with new options, and spending hours online researching things that will never end up being purchased all entertain me to no end. Easily the hardest thing to get a digital grasp on though is quality as the excitement of opening a new package melts away with disappointment in the end product. So, when you find a brand that consistently offers quality, product after product, you should probably sign up for their notifications. While I will admit I was not an early follower of Watches Of Espionage, I properly course-corrected, jumping on the bandwagon once I took a closer look at the content and eventually the products. For those that don’t know, Watches Of Espionage was started by a former Case Officer within the CIA focusing on horological content specifically related to espionage. Officially established in 2021, W.O.E. has quickly expanded into a full-fledged online publication, online store, high-level YouTube channel, and engaged community further bolstered by the addition of watch industry veteran and former commercial diver Benjamin Lowry (@submersiblewrist on Instagram) to the W.O.E team. As more and more limited runs of pouches, straps, and knives amongst other things began to show up in my feed, the W.O.E. branding made way to staple collections and consistent products, and the W.O.E. name became increasingly cemented in t...
Worn & Wound
I’m not a big fan of New Year’s Resolutions. Despite my own participation in the tradition, the idea of trying to tie major life changes or new habits to something as both arbitrary and specific as the New Year has always been somewhat anathema to me. Still, despite my resistance to making specific commitments at the start of a fresh calendar year, I don’t think there’s any doubt that the arrival of January can set the stage for a refresh. It’s in that mindset that I found myself spending much of the last week reorganizing basically my whole life. And by my whole life, I mean my desk (and the various drawers and organizers that surround it). A primary focus of this odyssey has been a set of metal Ikea drawers that operate as the functional center of my watch habit. One area in need of particular attention here was my strap drawer, in no small part because of its increasing annexation of other parts of my organizational ecosystem - a problem exacerbated by a shift in approach that existed in direct conflict with my existing storage logic. I don’t remember who first introduced them to me, but for the last few years, I’ve been storing my straps in a slowly increasing count of Muji Polypropylene Pen Cases (I think I first saw them on another collector’s Instagram, but for the life of me I can’t remember whose). With two compartments, one large enough for straps, the other perfectly sized for spring bars or loose links, these cheap plastic pencil cases make ...
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