Revolution
Walking The Ultra-Thin Line: The Audemars Piguet RD#2
The Audemars Piguet RD#2, the brand’s record-breaking prototype, is now available in a production version as the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
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Quill & Pad
Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The 2019 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published the list of “pre-selected” (shortlisted) watches in the run-up to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 7, 2019. The categories for 2019 are: Ladies, Ladies’ Complication, Men’s, Men’s Complication, Iconic, Chronograph, Chronometry, Mechanical Exception, Calendar and Astronomy, Divers, Jewellery, Artistic Crafts, Petite Aiguille, and Challenge. And, drum roll please, here are the stars of this year's show!
WatchAdvice
Bremont S300 review
I’ve been following British watch brand Bremont for five or six years now, and have been a fan of their work for various reasons. Earlier this year, I had the pleasure of attending their annual ‘Townhouse’ event in London, where they released the bulk of their new models. Overall the range for 2019 was quite strong, and their military-inspired collection was impressive – mainly because it was produced under a partnership with the British Military of Defense (MoD). This agreement allows Bremont to legitimately feature the signs, symbols and Heraldic badges of the MoD. Bremont are also the only luxury watch-maker with such permission, and we can only imagine the intricacies involved in securing such a partnership with the MoD. Today’s review is not that collection, and rather an update to the brands popular Supermarine collection. Specifically, the S300, which was released with a white dial after previously only being available with a black or blue dial. Not long after the S300 hit our shores, I was given the opportunity to spend a couple of weeks with one on loan, which was a great amount of time to get to know this watch and Bremont. The first thing that caught me was the refreshing white dial. It felt summery and worked really nicely with the accompanying polished blue bezel, which is unidirectional. The large Super-LumiNova filled hands make legibility a breeze, and are helped by the anti-reflective sapphire crystal, which has a nice dome to it. I noticed this ...
Hodinkee
Happenings: The 2019 Vintage Rolex Forum x Fourtane Carmel Get-Together
The annual VRF get-together at Fourtane Jewelers rides again.
SJX Watches
Doxa Introduces the Sub 200 T.Graph in Steel
Most famous for making distinctively styled dive watches in the late 1960s and 1970s, Doxa produces pretty much the same watches today as annual limited editions. The latest is the Sub 200 T.Graph, a remake of a 1969 diver’s chronograph – the flagship model of its day and now a rare, sought-after watch. The watch was first reissued as a 50th anniversary commemorative edition with an 18k yellow gold case and bracelet at Baselworld 2019. Now the more sensible steel version has arrived, and is still faithful to the original in shape and style. Typical of 1970s design, the case is a chunky cushion shape and matched with a “beads of rice” bracelet. The dial is orange – reputedly easier to see underwater than black – with block-style markers and hands, also typical of 1970s watches. And all the luminous paint on the dial is faux vintage Super-Luminova in “old radium” colour, meant to replicate the look of the aged tritium on the vintage originals. And the bezel is Doxa’s own dual-scale bezel that has both the dive time in minutes and depth in metres, allowing for recording of time underwater without decompression stops. The movement inside is a “new old stock” Valjoux 7734, which is vintage and dates to the 1980s, but is not the same calibre as in the original. The original was powered by the Doxa cal. 287, a hand-wound movement that was a rebadged cal. 310-82 from Eberhard, a sister company of Doxa at the time. In its day, and still today, the cal. 7...
SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, Louis Moinet Unveil Watches for Singapore Charity
As has become a tradition for Singapore children’s charity Kidz Horizon Appeal, its annual fundraising dinner will include an auction of one of a kind watches created especially for the event. Past auctions included timepieces by Audemars Piguet, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin and Voutilainen. This year’s line-up is made up of three watches from Roger Dubuis, Franck Muller, and Louis Moinet, the proceeds from which will go to the charity that funds medical treatment for children from poor families. Inspired by the colours of the Greek island, the Franck Muller Vanguard Mykonos (also pictured above) is the first watch from a limited edition of 28 made for the brand’s retailer Sincere Watch, which donated the watch to Kidz Horizon. It’s a variant of Frank Muller’s popular sports watch, with a polished steel case that has an integrated strap and a white resin insert running lengthwise along its side. Inside is the FM 0800, an automatic ETA movement. Vanguard Mykonos Commissioned by an anonymous donor, Roger Dubuis put together the Excalibur Huracàn “Kidz Horizon”, based on the wristwatch inspired by Lamborghini’s V10 coupe. Ordinarily available only with a titanium case, the Kidz Horizon edition has a case made from a combination of lightweight materials: titanium for the bezel and back, and a skeletonised case middle in C-SMC carbon – the same carbon composite used in the Huracan. The red accents on the dial and bezel are also unique to ...
SJX Watches
Introducing the Michel Perchin Watch in “Drapery” Enamel
Best known as a maker of ultra high-end fountain pens, Michel Perchin is named after one of the workshop directors of Faberge, the legendary jeweller of Imperial Russia famed for the lavish annual Easter Eggs produced for the Tsar. Amongst Faberge’s signature creations were incredible enamelled objects of all sorts finished in brilliantly coloured translucent enamel. The modern day Michel Perchin pens were decorated in the same style, and though the pen business is now defunct, the founder of the brand, Patrick Pinkston, has revived the name to produce a watch similarly decorated in fired enamel. Produced mostly in England but powered by a Swiss movement, the Michel Perchin watch is large, rectangular and decorated with vitreous enamel and diamonds – an aesthetic that’s not for everyone but impressively crafted, albeit at a steep price. The highlight is the “drapery” motif on the dial, that consists of a drapery guilloche engraved by a traditional, hand-operated rose engine, which is then covered in pale blue enamel. Three brilliant cut diamonds form the quarter hour markers, while a solid gold appliqué of the Michel Perchin elephant logo marks 12 o’clock The enamel is done the traditional way by a craftsman in England who first grinds the enamel powder with a mortar and pestle, then adds water or oil to create the mixture that can be painted onto the case surface. The case is then fired to set the enamel, and the process repeated to build up several layers...
Time+Tide
A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune
Editor’s note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on … The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such … ContinuedThe post A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Classico Perpetual Ludwig
The original Perpetual Ludwig was launched in 1996 to mark the 150th anniversary of Ulysse Nardin. Its brilliantly conceived calendar mechanism showed the calendar in legible windows, while allowing it to be set backwards and forwards, even around midnight, via the crown – in short, the calendar could be set in any direction, at any time, without the need for any tools. Subsequent iterations of the watch grew progressively bigger – unfortunately many got progressively uglier – but two years ago Ulysse Nardin rolled out the Classico Perpetual Ludwig (alongside other historical remakes), which stuck to the original styling, albeit in a larger case. Powered by the same movement from 1996, the Classico Perpetual Ludwig remains an ingenious innovation despite being over 20 years old, and the new remake also manages to be good value. The UN-33 of the Perpetual Ludwig Ulysse Nardin’s signature blue enamel logo on the crown Ludwig and his wheels The watch gets its name from Ludwig Oechslin, an inventive, self-taught watchmaker whose professional qualifications are in ancient history and archaeology. Working for Ulysse Nardin while it was owned by the late Rolf Schynder, a Swiss entrepreneur who made his fortune making low-cost movements in Asia, Mr Oechslin was responsible for the bulk of the brand’s inventions, from the Freak to the astronomical Trilogy of Time. Mr Oechslin’s fundamental innovation in the Perpetual Ludwig – patents EP1351104B1 and CH6968...
Hodinkee
Photo Report: The Fashion And Watches Of Henley Royal Regatta 2019
The sun was out and the seersucker was on as the UK summer social calendar kicked off at Henley 2019.
Time+Tide
LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019
The eighth edition of Only Watch is underway, with the release of the unique pieces offered by the 50 brand partners. After raising 40 million Swiss francs in the last seven editions, Only Watch is one of the most important charity auctions on the calendar, with Only Watch raising money for research into muscular dystrophy. … ContinuedThe post LIST: Our favourite watches of Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-winding ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
Every couple of years Vacheron Constantin gives one of its watches the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ treatment, constructing the watch entirely in platinum, from case to the stitching on the leather strap. First introduced in 2006, the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ range now consists of nine models, including the Traditionnelle World Time, Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon as well as Traditionnelle Complete Calendar that was launched last year. Now the line is joined by the hand-wound Traditionnelle, a simple, time-only watch executed in the most precious way possible. Small, heavy and monochromatic A focused exercise in classic dress watch design, the Traditionnelle Manual-winding is among the leading candidates in the category of hand-wound, time-only dress watches. It is arguably the quintessential Vacheron Constantin formal watch, being free of complications and superfluous elements. And though it faces strong competition from the likes of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Traditionnelle ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ (CEP) is unique in being all-platinum, end to end. With the CEP treatment, the watch has evolved to its ultimate form. The dimensions of the case remain unchanged – 38mm wide and just 7.77mm high. It features discreet decorative details like a fluted case back and straight, angular lugs that incorporate the form of a Maltese cross. But in the area where most time-only dress wat...
SJX Watches
Habring² Introduces the Perpetual Doppel
Austrian watchmaker Habring² is well-regarded for its affordable, cleverly engineered watches, particularly the Doppel rattrapante. Now Habring² takes the Doppel a step further: the Perpetual Doppel combines the mono-pusher, split seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar, while still keeping it affordable as such things go. Constructed atop its proprietary A11 movement (itself derived from the robust Valjoux 7750), the Perpetual Doppel is unusual in using a complications module not made by Habring², which typically designs its own complications. Instead, the watch uses the tried and tested perpetual calendar module produced by Dubois-Depraz, a complications specialist that also supplies the module to other makers of affordable perpetual calendars. This makes the Perpetual Doppel the most complicated serially produced Habring² watch, though the brand has produced one-off repeaters and tourbillons in the past. The Perpetual Doppel is generously sized at 43mm in diameter to spread out the calendar displays as much as possible to maximise legibility. But despite the added height of the perpetual calendar, the case manages to stay just 12mm high. Readability is also helped by the red gold-gilded hour numerals and red gold-plated hands that contrast with the brushed, silvered dial. And the chronograph has two central seconds hands for the split-seconds function, along with a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock for elapsed minutes. The Habring² c...
Deployant
Live from Time to Move: Glashütte Original
As we are in Switzerland, and not in Glashütte, GO is not able to show us the manufacture. But they did the next best thing – they brought part of the manufacture to Geneva. We were welcomed by the CEO. We started looking at the Sixties Annual Edition 2019. The manufacture of the orange dialRead More
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Minute Repeater claims ‘New Level of Excellence’ for Chiming Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre has unveiled a new minute repeater with perpetual calendar that “brings new levels of excellence to its mastery of chiming watches”.
Hodinkee
Happenings: The HODINKEE Shop At The 2019 Greenwich Concours d'Elegance
Join us for cars, watches, and fun at the 24th annual Greenwich Concours.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Up close and personal with 3 very complicated Vacheron Constantin watches
A little while ago, I had a very good day at work. That’s because my job involved spending some quality time with three exceptional Vacheron Constantin watches, which just happened to be in Melbourne. The first was the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin - a very classic (and slender) execution. Then there was the gorgeous Traditionnelle … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Up close and personal with 3 very complicated Vacheron Constantin watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Live from Baselworld 2019: Sinn
Six novelties from Sinn this year. First off to celebrate the 20th Anniversary of the original Frankfurt Financial District is the new 6012 Rose Gold Anniversary. LE 50 priced at S$25,600. 41.5mm case, full calendar with moonphase. The moon discs are MOP. Movement is ETA 7750 Chrono. Also available in SS – 6012 at S$7,800,Read More
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k
If the over $35,000 price point is not the most crowded at SIHH, it is equal to the 20-35k bracket before it. There are a lot of watches to choose from. From Baume & Mercier, with a well-priced perpetual calendar that dropped just over 35kAUD, to Richard Mille’s sweet Bonbon confection, practically all brands were … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew’s top 3 picks of SIHH 2019 over $35k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Audemars Piguet
The talk of town is the new AP collection which is dubbed Code 11.59. Code is an acronym for Challenge Own Dare Evolve and 11.59 is AP’s way of telling the world that they are always 1min ahead of the game. The collection is a full one, 13 references. From automatic to Chronograph, Perpetual Calendar,Read More
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Vacheron Constantin
Following our hands on yesterday at the BC manufacture, where we explored the new Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar in detail. Read our report earlier today for details. Here are more live photographs of the other novelties. A new blue series, with magnificent blue dials, on the Patrimony as well as the FiftySix. The Patrimony areRead More
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Bovet
At Bovet, we have four novelties, four new calibers. All in writing desk case. We start with the Retrograde Perpetual Calendar, which Bovet calls Recital 21. CHF72,000. The Next s the Amadéo Fleurier 46 Virtuioso IX. Blue flinque dial (a kind of lacquer which requires hours of polishing) 24 cities display which is totally customizable.Read More
Deployant
Live from SIHH 2019: Parmigiani
Parmigiani Fleurier next. Here are the novelty highlights. Toric Perpetual Calendar. Two dials are available. The hand guiloche dial version is 1k more at CHF 69,000. Case 42.9mm rose gold case. Caliber PF333, automatic, with a 22k gold rotor. The slate color dials are quite muted in tone, allowing the guilloche to shine. Toric HemisphereRead More
Revolution
SIHH 2019: Baume & Mercier taking the Baumatic further
This year at SIHH, Baume & Mercier has upped its Baumatic game, introducing four new models, headed up by the Baumatic Perpetual Calendar.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel
I like to imagine this time of year as an Advent calendar for watch lovers, with pre-release announcements being dropped each and every day as the countdown to SIHH 2019 ticks ever closer. Today’s delectable delight comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre, and not only is it new, it’s also blue, and delivers an impressively novel take … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon Enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Pre-SIHH 2019: Girard-Perregaux
Girard-Perregaux gets into the pre-SIHH 2019 spirit with the Laureato Perpetual Calendar and three new Cat’s Eye timepieces.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Smaller, but still smart – the Montblanc Summit 2
One thing you can be sure of with smart/connected watches is the regular (if not annual) upgrade. It’s true for all the big players in the space, and the luxury sector is no different. And today Montblanc announced their latest - the Summit 2. The topline summary is: smaller, faster and more versatile. And there’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Smaller, but still smart – the Montblanc Summit 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Patek Philippe Serves Up a Gold Feast in the 5270/1R with ‘Goutte’ Bracelet
The Patek Philippe 5270/1R drips red gold, from its sizeable case to massive gold bracelet with calendar correctors integrated into its ‘droplet’ links
Time+Tide
EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night
Last night the Australian Football League (AFL) celebrated its night of nights, the Brownlow Medal. Regarded as one of the most important events on the Australian sporting calendar, it’s akin to American Football’s Heisman Trophy or the world game’s Ballon d’Or. Needless to say, it’s kind of a big deal around these parts. Especially (at … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Watches, whisky, Brownlows – Tissot hosts 6 of the best for AFL’s big night appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Watches Star alongside the Cars at RM Sotheby’s Auction in Battersea Park
Sotheby’s and its motoring affiliate, RM Sotheby’s, took things a little further last week at the annual car sale held in London’s Battersea Park when it created a pop-up watch shop to sell a few pieces direct.