Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...

Trilobe Opens Parisian Manufacture And Debuts In-House Caliber In Trente-Deux Collection

Oris Just Dropped A Brand New Caliber And A Bamford Collab

Zenith Introduces a Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar with a Lapis Lazuli Dial

One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (and one of the best watches Zenith has made in years, in my opinion) was the G.F.J., a study in blue and a celebration of the brand’s 160th anniversary. The G.F.J. is something of a no-expenses-spared dream watch, with a platinum case and optional bracelet that basically doubles the price (because why not?) as well as a finely finished movement and loads of history built into the watch’s story, with a focus on the brand’s historic pursuits in chronometry. When I had that watch on my wrist I wondered how the G.F.J. line might expand, and if this watch was an opening salvo in a more ambitious series of releases to come. I don’t know that we have any answers to those questions, necessarily, with the release of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli today, but there’s certainly some connective tissue between Zenith’s newest novelty and the G.F.J. we saw a few months ago.  Looking at the latest Zenith Triple Calendar, it’s impossible not to notice a certain aesthetic similarity to the G.F.J. Both make prominent use of lapis lazuli, one of the most common precious stones used in watchmaking. On the G.F.J., lapis is what makes up the majority of the dial space, with the stone in the main dial nicely complementing the blue mother of pearl in the subsidiary seconds. On this new Triple Calendar, the lapis is truly the star of the show, dominating the dial and only yielding for the three subregisters i...

Hands-on - The Stowa Marine Original Arabic is Fit for a Life at Sea (Incl. Video)

German watchmaking company Stowa has been around for more than a century, and throughout that time, it became primarily known for two things: pilots’ watches and marine chronometers. These instruments were crucial in the early days of navigating the seas, as they were vital instruments in pinpointing where you were on your journey and where […]

Introducing: G-Shock Throws It Back To The Original 'Rubber Ball' Prototype With The New GA-V01

Retro design, super cool story – it's one of G-Shock's biggest (literally and figuratively) releases in recent memory.

Richard Mille Introduces New Sapphire Cases Specially Designed For Caliber RM75-01

Kallinich Claeys Brings Creative Independent Watchmaking to Glashütte

In the Fall of 2023, I organized a RedBar event in Prague for Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, and Jochen Benzinger. During the event I met two young guys who looked in their early twenties, enjoying fresh Pilsner beer. When we raised our glasses to cheer, I noticed his wrist and had a hard time believing what I saw.  The young man introduced himself as Thibault Claeys and said this is their first watch. The other young man introduced himself as Johannes Kallinich. While I looked at the watch, Thibault told me that both of them worked at A. Lange & Söhne until recently. Johannes was the head of the Lange 1 department and a certified Master Watchmaker with a deep understanding of technical construction. Thibault, on the other hand, graduated from watchmaking school in Antwerp, and joined the Lange 1815 department. His expertise lies in finishing techniques, and he plays MacGyver with all the machines and tooling.  The next encounter with Thibault and Johannes was a planned visit to their atelier in the summer of 2024. Their small workshop is located right next to Nomos headquarters, and directly opposite from the SUG case workshop in Glashütte. The workshop is framed all around by large windows, an inspiration they took from Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi.  Thibault walked me through “his side” of the workshop first where he built his own CNC milling machine. You see all the contraptions he built himself for making parts or for finishing of the parts. He says it actually all...

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century

The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...

Horage Debuts the K3, an All New Antimagnetic Caliber, and the Decaflux, an Affordable Everyday Sports Watch

The independent brand Horage has produced some of the most genuinely interesting watches of the last several years. They’re a bit of a tough brand to pin down. Depending on how you discover them, you could mistake them for a brand obsessed with links between watches and photography, or one of a handful of small indies doing interesting things with tourbillons and other watchmaking tech for quite a bit less money than you’d typically expect. But the thing that links all of their products together is a desire to come up with creative solutions to long standing watchmaking problems and to do so in a way that doesn’t leave anyone out of the experience. Accessibility and approachability are as vital to Horage as their love-it-or-hate-it design language, often embracing an ultra contemporary sensibility.  Two new announcements from Horage over the last week or so perfectly illustrate their commitment to quietly pushing horological boundaries. First came the introduction of their new K3 movement. Over the last several years, most of Horage’s big movement developments have come with some high end features and represent big swings for the brand. The tourbillon, of course, is arguably the centerpiece, but they’ve also introduced a micro-rotor caliber as well as a fascinating tool that allows for the periodic electronic regulating of that very movement. But the K3 is a comparatively simple idea, a high quality movement made from advanced materials at a relatively low cost....

Ming’s Latest Release Presents An Updated Look To The Frederic Piguet Caliber 21

First Look - The New Stowa Flieger Original, a Faithful Recreation of the Historic Pilot’s Watch

Stowa is, without a doubt, one of the most legitimate brands when it comes to Flieger watches. Founded by Walter Storz in 1927 and currently headquartered in Pforzheim, Germany, it is now part of the Tempus Arte group, which also owns Lang & Heyne. But importantly, Stowa was one of only five manufacturers allowed to […]

Photo Report: The Vintage Watches And Rare Oddities Of The 2025 Original Miami Beach Antique Show

In mass quantities and/or amazing quality, the largest antique show in the U.S. always delivers.

Video Review - A Personal Insight to Why I Bought the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve

I’m very fortunate (and spoilt, in a way) to handle hundreds of watches every year working for MONOCHROME Watches. To the point that I almost have to admit it’s not that easy to be impressed anymore, but it does happen from time to time. Of course, it’s not that difficult to be amazed by very […]

eBay Finds: A Vintage Girard-Perregaux Casquette, a Classic Seamaster in Original Condition, and a Pulsar with the Full Kit

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Girard Perregaux Casquette  Coming in with the heat to start this week, with this very cool and very rare vintage Girard Perregaux  Casquette LED watch. This super-futuro watch debuted in 1976 and is so iconic that GP reissued it as a heritage edition in 2022. But this here is the O.G. GP LED (sorry, I had to do that…), and it even comes with the original box. What makes this model unique is the side view ‘drivers’ design where the LED window is inset, giving it an old school computer console look. The 32mm wide steel case is in good shape, unpolished and still showing the original brushed finish. It comes on the original bracelet, although the seller states it will only fit up to a 7” wrist. The watch works well with no missing LED segments, however one of the buttons is a little sticky per the seller. The watch comes with the original box, which is a little beat up. Still, this is a really nice example of an exceptional watch. View auction here Vintage Seiko 7006-8040  Here’s one that is a little simpler, a straight forward vintage Seiko 7006-8040 on the original bracelet. This is your classic 1970’s sporty/dress Seiko, with a silver dial, day/date window at 3 o...

First Look - Serica Gets Dressy and Original with the Shaped Parade Reference 1174

In over 100 years of wristwatch making, almost everything has been done.  And well done for most of it. Reinventing yourself in a crowded market isn’t easy, even for a young brand like Serica. For five years – its entire life – the brand has been focusing on producing (quite appealing) retro-styled instrument watches. Imagine […]

Reading Time At HSNY: Our Original Library

Behind the scenes at one of the world's most unique and comprehensive archives of horology.

Maen Goes Back to their Roots with the Lunar Classic 36

When we last checked in with Maen, they had just released their latest collaboration with visual artist seconde/seconde, a take on their popular Manhattan integrated bracelet sports watch that was both playful in its aesthetic and sober in its theme. That watch, and other watches in the Manhattan collection, represent one side of the Maen coin, which is that of a brand willing to experiment and play around with expectations, whether that’s in a collaborative partner like seconde/seconde, or making a watch that’s almost impossibly thin at a surprisingly affordable price point. Maen’s latest, though, represents a different side of the brand, one that is quite a bit more traditional and borders on classical, at least in a watchmaking context. The new Lunar Classic 36 brings a classic complication, the moonphase, back into the Maen lineup after a long absence.  Maen’s very first watch, released in 2017, had a moonphase complication. That quartz watch is very different in execution than any watch in the current Maen lineup, which is kind of the point of the Lunar Classic 36. It exists, in part, as a demonstration of how far the brand has come. Anyone who has handled a Maen knows that these watches punch well above their weight class in terms of fit and finish, and recent releases really demonstrate that the progress they’ve made getting the best manufacturing results possible, while honing in on a clearer than ever design language.  Like other recent Maen releases, ...

Bring a Loupe: A Philippe Dufour Duality, A Zenith Caliber 135 Chronometer, And An Odd 1920s Cartier

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

Celebrating 20 years of the iconic Spring Drive Caliber 9R with the SBGA499

Norqain Launches the Independence Skeleton Chrono with the New 8K Flyback Caliber

Norqain has just unveiled what is certainly their biggest release of the year, and quite possibly their most ambitious release since the debut of the Wild One two years ago. The new Independence Skeleton Chronograph expands on the design language we saw take shape with the Wild One, and introduces a new, skeletonized, flyback chronograph mechanism. The new watch is conceived as something of a statement piece, meant to highlight what the brand thinks of as their independent spirit, and launches in two variants that illustrate where a full collection of watches powered by this new caliber could potentially go.  The movement at the center of this release has been dubbed the 8K Manufacture Calibre, and features flyback functionality, a tool that was first developed for chronographs used by pilots to time flight related intervals. Flyback functionality allows a running chronograph to be reset to zero instantaneously without first stopping it, so it’s a useful tool for anyone that needs to time multiple intervals in rapid succession (it has gained wide adoption in sporting contexts through the decades). The execution of this particular movement appears to have all of the hallmarks of a solid, modern chronograph movement, including a power reserve stretching to 62 hours, as well as a column wheel. The 8K caliber is also chronometer certified.  It’s also worth noting that the 8K movement was developed in partnership with Manufacture AMT, a division of Sellita known for creat...

The Grand Seiko 45GS Returns with the New Hand-Wound Hi-Beat Caliber 9SA4

The Re-Edition/Reissue Issue: Living in the Shadow of the Original

The reissue concept is relatively simple: classically correct on the outside and up to date on the inside, thereby quenching the owner’s thirst for nostalgia while sparing them maintenance issues. But Tamim Almousa isn't a fan of re-editions and he explains why here.

Buying Guide - Five Highly Original and Creative Retrograde Watches

It’s common knowledge that the vast majority of watches use centrally mounted hands continuously rotating 360 degrees in a clockwise direction to tell time down to the hours and minutes, and most often the seconds. Often the seconds indication is moved to 6′ or 9′ and has its own separate sub-dial, but that pretty much […]

Walter Lange 100 Years: How the Lange 1 Became The Most Original and Modern Watch Ever Created

Parmigiani Fleurier Dresses Up the Tonda PF 36 in Rose Gold

Photo Report: Assembling Caliber 9SA4 at the Grand Seiko Boutique

I’ve always had a fascination for peeking behind the curtain. Whether it was tearing apart broken electronics, rebuilding car engines, or opening the caseback of my first Seiko, I’ve always wanted to see and know how things work. As I’ve gone deeper into the horology rabbit hole, I’ve become more interested in the physical process of assembling a movement. While I can watch any number of YouTube videos, there’s something special about seeing it done in person, especially when you get to watch a Grand Seiko Watchmaker at work. Last week, I was invited to Grand Seiko’s boutique for a live assembly of their new 9SA4 movement, a high-beat, manually wound high frequency movement featuring Grand Seiko’s proprietary dual impulse escapement and 80 hours of power reserve. If you’d like to learn more about the 9SA4 and how it was created from the 9SA5, Zach Kazan covers that in detail here. This event was hosted at Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique (we celebrated the grand opening of this boutique in March, click here for the recap article) which features a gorgeous open concept main level, and an intimate lower level they’ve dubbed “The Cellar”. Unlike any cellar I’ve ever been in, this lower level features multiple lounge spaces, a full bar, a dedicated presentation space and, of course, plenty of watches. You’ll also find various items of cultural significance from the towns surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, which inspire the design o...

Yema Introduces a New Skin Diver with their Micro Rotor Caliber

French watchmaker Henry-Louis Belmont established Yema in 1948 and quickly became known for manufacturing ultra-capable tool watches. By 1954 their production reached 130,000 watches and by the mid 1960s they were selling over 400,000 watches annually in 55 countries. Their motto “Time of Heroes” became their official slogan, and their watches were particularly suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Today, Yema is experiencing a resurgence and is introducing a new modern interpretation of their iconic Skin Diver. The Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is not just another pretty face. Beneath the beautiful dark grey dial beats their in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20 movement (CMM.20). It is rated for accuracy at -3/+7 seconds a day, has a power reserve of 70 hours, and is extra slim due to its micro-rotor. The watch measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm from lug-to-lug, and only 10mm tall to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal. Despite being relatively thin, it is water-resistant to an impressive depth of 300 meters. Adding to its vintage styling is a dark grey, faded bezel insert covered by sapphire glass. Its lume pip, along with all the lume on the dial and markers, has that aged radium look, which complements the design very well. The watch comes mounted on a new slimmer Yema Scales bracelet, which integrates better with the Skin Diver’s slimmer profile. The screw-down case back offers a transparent view of the movement, featuring a black ALD (ato...

Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm ‘Sunlit Ivory’ SHH Edition, a limited edition for Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches. More compact than the rest of the collection that ranges from 40 mm to 42 mm, its svelte dimensions are an answer to collectors’ calls for smaller watches, which is a positive development from both an ergonomic and aesthetic standpoint. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch will be available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques across Southeast Asia. Initial thoughts Let’s get this out of the way: this is an integrated-bracelet luxury sport watch. But the Tonda PF, and this SHH edition specifically, is a thoughtfully conceived watch that deserves a second look despite the numerous offerings in this segment. Its appeal primarily comes down to the size and execution, which differentiates this from its peers. The sizing, in particular, is just about perfect. While 36 mm may sound small, the visual size is enlarged by the large dial opening, narrow bezel, and the integrated bracelet, giving it presence without bulk. Furthermore, the 8.6 mm case is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to not feel dainty. There are also a number of well-considered details, such as the guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and no-date format, which plant the Tonda PF Sunlit Ivory firmly on the dressy end of the luxury sport watch spectrum. But the Tonda PF is still sporty – featuring a 4 Hz movement, ...

Introducing - New Microbrand Cherkas Launches with an Original Watch, the Module One

So, we have another first watch from a new microbrand, but this one truly stands out with a unique, retro/contemporary approach that drew inspiration from the early space race. Cherkas was founded by Vasily Kuybar, born in the USSR and fascinated by aerospace, who designed the Cherkas Module One with a retro sci-fi aesthetic that’s […]