Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL Offers A Subtle New Twist Of Dimensionality
The brand's recent introduction of three-dimensional "UNILIGHT" applied lumed markers makes for a fun twist on the compact Modello Cinque.
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Hodinkee
The brand's recent introduction of three-dimensional "UNILIGHT" applied lumed markers makes for a fun twist on the compact Modello Cinque.
Deployant
Louis Vuitton's project with independent watchmakers is now in Chapter 3. Here is our review of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...
Monochrome
The Legacy Machine collection has always been MB&F;‘s most paradoxical line. Conceived as a tribute to 19th-century watchmaking, it features some of the most theatrical three-dimensional movements in contemporary horology. The LM101, introduced in 2014, was the most restrained expression of that idea. Smaller, thinner, and mechanically simpler than its siblings, it stripped the concept […]
Fratello
Sometimes good things happen really fast. It’s been less than two weeks since I wrote the introduction article for the new CIGA Design Time Cipher. In it, I expressed my wish to take the brand’s latest creation for a spin, and barely a week after publication, the watch landed on my desk. So for the […] Visit Hands-On With The Fun CIGA Design Time Cipher to read the full article.
Hodinkee
We take a look at the surprising new release, its competition, and the future of something built on the past.
Worn & Wound
There are certain “easy wins” with watch enthusiasts that brands rely on. Put a line of red text on a black dial diver, and you’ll get some smiles. Add a micro-adjust to your clasp, and you’ll avoid some angry emails. Drill your lugs, and… well, I at least will be excited. And when it comes to chronographs, a sure-fire way to get some attention is to invert your sub-dials. Yep, though it has been done countless times, “panda” dials still get the thumbs-up from us nerds. So, it was no surprise that the recently released “Black and White” Speedmasters (which, to those of us from NYC, brings to mind a certain iconic cookie before a watch dial) were received with much excitement. Take one of the most celebrated watches in production, give it a dial treatment that is hard to mess up, and, unsurprisingly, you have a hit. Well done, Omega. Yeah, the Speedmaster Black and White is very nice looking To make matters more exciting, despite the many, many, many versions of Speedmasters over the years, Pandas are not common among them. I’m no Speedy scholar, so my internal reference archive isn’t complete, but having been the occasional Speedy customer, I know that pandas were few and far between, usually limited, or precious metal, and rarely a “reverse” or “evil” panda (white sub-dial on a black surface) in form. That this new model is available in steel and not limited actually makes them special, by not being special. The dilemma, if you can call it th...
WatchAdvice
Though the aftershocks of news surrounding Baume & Mercier is still being felt, does their new Clifton keep the ball rolling? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, slim case silhouette One of the comfiest bracelets I’ve ever worn Baumatic = Best value? What We Don’t: Fairly ordinary appearance, not for those wanting dramatic flair Bracelet finishing invites scratches and smudges Crown operation feels off Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Is the dress watch dead? Both Matt and I have attempted to answer this question on separate occasions. Matt argued that, in the contemporary space, the dress watch has fallen out of favour. I, on the other hand, believe dress watches remain prevalent and are thriving within the accessible segment of quartz timepieces. However, there are still a handful of brands that have committed themselves to collections defined by elegant aesthetics and attainable price points. One of these brands, Raymond Weil, is one we’ve discussed extensively, but they are far from the only player in this market. WATCH EDUCATION: An Introduction Into Baume & Mercier Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier has maintained a notable presence within this relatively accessible tier of luxury watchmaking. A long-time subsidiary of the Richemont Group since 1988, the brand has used this period to develop watches that are balanced yet distinctive, both in design and mechanics. While the Riviera collection...
Monochrome
Perpetual calendars are, without a doubt, an integral part of Audemars Piguet’s history, and the Royal Oak has carried its strand very convincingly since 1984. With the introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked powered by the new Calibre 7139, AP signals a clear generational shift. Released alongside a Code 11.59 counterpart, which […]
Worn & Wound
Despite frigid temperatures outside, the Windup Watch Shop showroom in Brooklyn was buzzing with energy as Oris and Worn & Wound hosted an evening dedicated to one of the brand’s most beloved new releases: the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye.” Fans, enthusiasts, and first-time Oris buyers alike packed the space, turning a cold winter night into a warm celebration of independent watchmaking. Representing Oris for the evening were VJ Geronimo, CEO – The Americas; Josh Shanks, Director of Marketing and Communications – North America; and Megan Hines, Marketing Coordinator. Their presence gave attendees direct access to the people behind the brand, creating an atmosphere that felt both intimate and entertaining. Guests were treated to extensive hands-on time with the full Oris collection, with special attention naturally focused on the the Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye.” The watch drew a steady crowd throughout the night, with attendees eager to experience its striking dial and classic proportions in person. Professional wrist shots were available to everyone, and a steady rotation of guests took advantage of the opportunity to capture studio-quality photos with their favorite pieces. In keeping in theme with the hero watch of the evening, guests were also invited to try their luck and making a Bullseye-of the dart variety. The Worn & Wound crew took special interest in this activity in particular. The evening also had its share of Oris merch and mater...
Hodinkee
Breitling marks its entry into Formula 1 with a limited edition titanium Navitimer with Aston Martin accents and details.
Fratello
Whenever we’re in Geneva, it’s fun to stop by ArtyA. On any given day, the boutique could see a visit from a music star. Or, at one point, a custom motorcycle took center stage. Late last year, though, it was just us from Fratello who took up residence for an hour to see the brand’s […] Visit Hands-On With The ArtyA Luminity Wavy AMR-01 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2025, Audemars Piguet (AP) has kicked off 2026 with a slate of new models, including one of the most complicated watches in its history. But it was a simpler watch that that generated the most buzz at the glamorous launch event in the Swiss alps: the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, which is both a new watch and the beginning of a new collection that replaces the [Re]master series. The Neo Frame is a regular production wristwatch in 18k rose gold inspired by the Pre-model 1271, a historical AP reference from 1929. Though rooted in the Art Deco era, the Neo Frame is an eminently modern watch with a novel case and dial construction and the brand’s latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts The name Audemars Piguet is nearly synonymous with that of its signature product, the Royal Oak. While many brands would probably trade their entire catalogues to have a single hit like the Royal Oak, AP has sought to diversify its product line up with the introduction of collections like the Code 11.59 and the short-lived [Re]master series. Despite these efforts, the Royal Oak family remains AP’s commercial engine, making the introduction of a new collection, anchored by a rectangular jumping hours watch, especially notable. The jumping hours complication seems to be enjoying renewed interest among collectors, which makes release of the Neo Frame feel timely. But up close and on the wrist, it doesn’t look or feel like anything else on t...
SJX Watches
One of the most talked-about watches of this year’s LVMH Watch Week, the TAG Heuer Carrera Seafarer reimagines Heuer’s quirky midecentury tide-tracker in the contemporary Carrera ‘Glassbox’ format. With its warm hues and vibrant teal accents, the Seafarer captures much of the charm of the original while incorporating most (if not all) of the brand’s latest technical upgrades. Initial thoughts The Carrera Seafarer belongs to the tradition of historical reissues, in the same vein as watches like the Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” and Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute B02 that give new life to past icons. While these reruns can get tiring, there continue to be instances in which the original model has become too iconic to not be given another go. Such is the case with the Seafarer, a quirky creation from the 1940s originally sold under the Abercrombie & Fitch name, which was, at the time, a premium sporting goods retailer trusted by the likes of Ernest Hemingway. Interestingly, the original was never a true commercial success, but its novel complication and vibrant colourways have since made it highly collectible in recent years. Much like early Rolex Daytonas, the original Seafarers were under appreciated in their time but later gained a niche following. Dressed in the modern Carrera Glassbox case, the Seafarer shines with its champagne-coloured dial, blocky typeface and playful chromatics. Thankfully the reissue stays true to the original’s purpos...
Fratello
It is no secret that I am a fan of Unimatic. The Italian brand has built its reputation on wonderful tool watches that stand out for their clever minimalist design. On top of that, it would be fair to say that Unimatic has released some of the most creative collaborative efforts of the last few […] Visit Hands-On With New Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-BL Limited Edition to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
As we all well know by now, the watch-collecting hobby can get hyper-specific. Today, I am wading into the weeds of one of the most highly specialized sub-genres of the Seiko collecting universe, that of Japanese Domestic Market pieces from the brand, which I will be referring to here on out as JDM Seikos. Down below, I’m going to walk you through, first and foremost, what the term JDM Seiko actually means, then get into the most universally coveted models, and similar watches that you can more easily find in the brand’s international repertoire. [toc-section heading="JDM Seikos vs. “Japanese-Made”Seikos"] Image: Provenance Watches Given that Seiko is one of Japan’s most significant and historic watchmakers, you might be asking, as you find yourself here in this section, “Seiko is a Japanese brand, so aren’t all Seikos Japanese-Made?” As with most things, the answer is not as straightforward as the question. If we were to base our answer on the framework dictated by the U.S. Trade Commission standards, any watch that has a movement assembled in Japan is good enough to be considered Japanese-made. This casts a pretty wide net. Japan, on the other hand, follows the more rigorous parameters set by the APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum). Based on APEC standards, a watch movement and dial components must be assembled in Japan to rightfully claim “Japanese Made” status. Across its catalog, if Seiko can rightly claim the “Japanese Made” label ...
Fratello
Sometimes, a watch that lands on my desk ends up being markedly different from the standard fare. It didn’t take me long to realize that the RGM Model 222-RR was one of them. This watch takes inspiration from some of the great American railroad stories from the early 20th century, which instantly makes the Model […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming RGM Model 222-RR to read the full article.
Time+Tide
American microbrand Traska's first-ever chronograph introduces a novel subdial design that reduces visual clutter.The post Traska’s ambitious Chronograph Ref. 10251 swaps subdial hands for discs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin’s latest Overseas Tourbillon pairs a titanium case with a deep red dial, recalling last year’s perpetual calendar, showcasing the cal. 2160 with peripheral rotor, refined finishing, and a slow beating one minute tourbillon. It represents the finest of industrial fine watchmaking with high-end construction inside and out. Initial Thoughts Last August Vacheron Constantin launched a pair of new Overseas Perpetual Calendars, one in burgundy and the other pink-on-pink. I felt the “deep red” dial – as Vacheron Constantin calls it – works particularly well against the white gold case, and the light blue accents were a nice touch. Nothing has changed on that front, the colour pallette looks just as good now as it did then, but is now lighter, thanks to the titanium case, and equipped more impressive movement. While the Overseas Perpetual’s movement somewhat lags behind its competition, the Overseas Tourbillon has a more competitive calibre, which holds its own against the Royal Oak Tourbillons, and wins by default against the non-existent Nautilus Tourbillon. That said, it is hardly a value within its segment, with estimated pricing comparable to Audemars Piguet’s blue-chip Royal Oak Tourbillons, though that is more than fair when you put aside brand caché and focus purely on the product. Case and Bracelet The Overseas case is well made and well finished by any standard, though not quite as complex as its counterparts from Audemars Piguet and P...
SJX Watches
Following collaborations with Rexhep Rexhepi and Kari Voutilainen, Louis Vuittion turns to De Bethune’s Denis Flageollet for its biggest independent collaboration to date, both literally and figuratively. The release spans two timekeepers - the first is the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius, a heat-blued titanium wristwatch that can be wound and set by the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius, an ambitious métiers d’art Sympathique clock. Initial thoughts Having worked on Sympathique clocks for Breguet during his spell at Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) in the 1990s, Mr Flageollet revisits the concept on his own terms. De Bethune is one of the few independent brands with its own clockmaking workshop, which is a testament to Mr Flageollet’s experience gained at THA. The Sympathique clock is finely wrought, with several charming artistic flourishes embodying De Bethune’s house style with a generous use of blued titanium. While this Sympathique arguably is a historical tribute rather than state-of-the art, it is nonetheless easier to use than its antecedents, with a simplified docking process that doesn’t require the watch’s strap to be removed. In terms of usability, this Sympathique is arguably the most advanced to date; moreover, both clocks can be paired with any of the watches in the series, an interchangeability underlining the precision of make that was absent in historical Sympathique clocks. Denis Flageollet at the launch event in Tokyo. The massive ornam...
Hodinkee
A uniquely bold sci-fi take on the idea of a sporty chronograph.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week we have a fresh and beautiful vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille dress watch. The 34mm yellow gold cap case is in nice shape, with classic 1960s slim lugs. The steel back has a nice, deeply engraved Hippocampus logo medallion. The case is a front-loading type, but this time the seller was kind enough to remove the movement so we can see that pink gold automatic caliber 563 beauty. The movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The serial number on the movement dates this one to 1967. The silver dial has an elegant linen finish to it, with gold stick markers and slim gold stick hands. There is of course a date window at 3 o’clock. The dial is super clean and looks original to me. The crown is correct for this model and signed with the Omega logo as it should. Even the acrylic crystal is signed with the Omega logo on the underside of the middle, which is always a huge plus. Great looking original vintage Seamaster DeVille dress watch. View auction here 1960s Wittnauer “Mystery Dial” Here is a spectacular vintage Wittnauer “mystery dial” watch. The mystery dial is a design where the minute hand is normal, but the hour hand ...
Hodinkee
A deeply faithful return of a late-1960s design opens up a wider conversation about reissues in 2026.
Fratello
Mention Pan Am to watch fans, and the first association that comes to mind is the iconic Rolex GMT-Master. It has become one of the watch world’s most popular stories, always reflected in the classic travel watch with its red and blue “Pepsi” bezel. But apart from a watch created for Pan Am pilots to […] Visit Hands-On With The Christopher Ward C60 Clipper GMT to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 2021, Bianchet is a young independent brand based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, specialising in contemporary tonneau-shaped timepieces that merge advanced materials with architectural mechanics. The brand’s designs are rooted in the Golden Ratio (1.618), which influences the proportions of its cases, bridges, and even its rotors. Last year’s model B 1.618 UltraFino Carbon […]
Fratello
Working in this industry, I sometimes find it strange how I can go for so long without trying a watch that has been available for years. That’s the case with the Maen Hudson diver. The Stockholm-based brand with Dutch roots first introduced the Hudson in 2018. The modern dive watch has evolved, and almost eight […] Visit Hands-On With The Redesigned Maen Hudson 38 MK5 to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, we go hands-on with a watch from one of my favorite small brands. Atelier Wen rarely misses a beat with its releases, and the new Millésime Perception Xuán is no exception. As we’ll see, it uses a familiar platform but trades engraving for stoneworking. Plus, for those who struggle with the idea of a […] Visit Hands-On: The New Atelier Wen Millésime Perception Xuán to read the full article.
Hodinkee
With an educational focus and unashamedly broad shoulders, the Decompression 02 is an uncommonly serious offering in the dive watch genre.
Fratello
Sometimes you run into watches that are in a different category of appreciation. The moment I saw the inaugural Toledano & Chan B/1 with the lapis lazuli dial, it triggered my appreciation for design, not only in watches but also in general. The beautifully sculpted case, wonderfully detailed bracelet, and stunning lapis lazuli dial made […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking Titanium Toledano & Chan B/1.3r to read the full article.
Fratello
What a strange question. Why would the Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda, a new interpretation of the Swiss brand’s 50s Presidents’ Chronograph Heritage model, only be interesting for Real Madrid fans? Why wouldn’t the socios of Atletico Madrid, Barcelona, or fans of other football clubs outside Spain want this retro-looking chronograph on the wrist? Perhaps it’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Vulcain Monopusher Heritage Panda to read the full article.
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