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Omega’s Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Returns SJX Watches
Omega s Speedmaster Dark Side Oct 14, 2025

Omega’s Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Returns

A hit when it was launched a dozen years ago – time does fly – the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon was the first-ever Speedmaster in ceramic. Now Omega has refined and reworked the concept – the case is now almost 1 mm thinner – while retaining the all-ceramic construction and distinctive aesthetic. The new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (DSOTM) makes its debut in four variants. The first two stick closely to the original, right down to the same automatic cal. 9900 movement, but in a slimmer format. More notable is the manual-wind version containing the cal. 9908, the first DSOTM offering with this movement, making it even thinner. And it has no date to boot. Rounding out the quartet is the Speedmaster Grey Side of the Moon (GSOTM) that is also manual-wind but powered by the historically-based, Moonwatch-famous cal. 3861. This adopts the lunar-textured surface, front and back, first seen on the Apollo 8 edition. The first manual-wind DSOTM that has a black-and-red livery Initial thoughts Contemporary collectors are spoiled for choice when it comes to the Speedmaster, which is available in seemingly endless configurations. While that’s arguably a criticism, it demonstrates Omega’s industrial prowess, which enables the brand to deliver large volumes of watches that are objectively high quality and equipped with some of the industry’s best chronograph movements, without keeping customers waiting. Regardless of the shade of grey or black, the watches are ins...

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Hands-On With The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase Fratello
Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Oct 9, 2025

Hands-On With The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase

During my 12 years of living in Germany, I participated in numerous high-level business meetings. You know the type - sitting around a table, wearing a suit, and drinking coffee from Alfi pitchers. As you can tell, that wasn’t always fun, so I often amused myself by checking out the watches on people’s wrists. Most […] Visit Hands-On With The Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase to read the full article.

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Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap Worn & Wound
Oct 9, 2025

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap

I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier –  history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...

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Kollokium Introduces the All New Projekt 02 Worn & Wound
Oct 8, 2025

Kollokium Introduces the All New Projekt 02

Kollokium came on the watch scene almost two years ago shrouded in mystery. The Projekt 01 was not only a daring exercise in the avant-garde, it was from a brand that was, in some ways, kind of formless. Founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, the pedigree was high but the teasing messages on their website and social media could lead you to think it was all a goof. Kollokium, in the years since, have evolved their Projekt 01 design with multiple colorways and lume treatments, always keeping the same signature “dial” effect, which is an array of hundreds of precisely sized cylinders that when viewed together show rough hour markers through undulations (like on a pin-art board) that allow for time telling. It’s all very sci-fi, and high concept, but Kollokium became a “real” brand at some point along the way, and have captured a devoted following of owners and prospective owners, always awaiting the next drop.  Well, the next drop is here (sort of) and it debuts a striking new design. No points for creativity here, but the watch is simply called the Projekt 02, and according to Kollokium the design is rooted in the initial concepts that came from the brainstorming that eventually produced the Projekt 01. The brand describes it as a bit more organic, but very much still in their “neobrutalist” wheelhouse.  Instead of those lume filled cylinders we saw in the Projekt 01 releases, the dial here is created from a total of ...

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A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Oct 7, 2025

A Sneak Peek at the Watches of Windup Watch Fair NYC 2025

For the conclusion of Worn & Wound’s 10 year anniversary of the Windup Watch Fair, we’ll be returning to Center415 on Fifth Avenue, right in the heart of New York CIty. For the second year in a row in this venue, we’ll be bringing over 140 brands from 17 different countries from around the world. These brands range from high-end outfits like M.A.D. Editions, to some of our favorite strapmakers like Spring Made, to this year’s mix of new and returning Lead Sponsors. This will be an unforgettable experience! Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to everyone No registration necessary This year, we’re thrilled about our returning Lead Sponsors-Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola. They are now joined by Bremont, who’s making their debut at Windup NYC this year. We couldn’t be more excited for this mix of brands, each working hard to create watches for the enthusiast community and beyond. Here’s a rundown of what watches you can expect to see from each of our Lead Sponsors. Bremont – Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey Bremont’s new Altitude MB Meteor Stealth Grey takes the brand’s signature ruggedness and channels it into a more understated form. Its 42mm case, crafted from ultra-matte Grade 2 titanium, gives it a sleek and durable presence designed to absorb light and reduce glare. Beneath the minimalist ...

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The History And Guide To Marathon Watches Worn & Wound
Marathon Oct 5, 2025

The History And Guide To Marathon Watches

Marathon Watch traces its origins back to 1904, initially established as the Weinsturm Watch Company, later evolving into the Wein Brothers. In 1939, under the visionary leadership of Morris Wein, Marathon Watch was founded in the vibrant city of Montreal, Canada, with a steadfast commitment to delivering high-quality precision timepieces across North America. A crucial chapter in the company’s history began during World War II. In 1941, Marathon became a pivotal supplier of timekeeping instruments for the Allied Forces, providing durable and reliable watches to the U.S. and Canadian armed forces. Fast-forward to today, and the company proudly remains in the hands of the fourth generation of the Wein family, who continue to uphold the legacy of excellence. Marathon specializes in a diverse array of precision instruments designed to measure time, temperature, and distance, all crafted with a focus on military robustness and Swiss engineering. This unique combination ensures that each watch offers unparalleled quality and accuracy.     Marathon watches are designed to withstand the rigors of military conditions and meet the stringent United States Military Standard MIL-PRF-46374G. This dedication to excellence has earned them the distinction of being the sole supplier of timepieces to the United States Armed Forces, including esteemed branches like the U.S. Army, Navy, and Marine Corps, as well as NASA and the Canadian Armed Forces. Their reliability has also made them a...

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Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional Fratello
Oct 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional

If you’ve been sleeping on Aquastar, it’s high time to get on board and take a look at the brand’s dive watches. Since 2020, the revitalized company has released a flurry of watches under its two core collections. The Deepstar models represent the dawn of recreational diving during the ’60s. On the other hand, the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional to read the full article.

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First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video) Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Oct 1, 2025

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Pierre Gasly (Incl. Video)

On the eve of the 2025 Singapore Grand Prix at the Marina Bay Street Circuit, H. Moser & Cie. pulls the covers off its latest Formula 1-themed watch. But it’s perhaps not what you expect, as it doesn’t come in some highly exotic F1-tech derived material, nor with a revolutionary design. Instead, the renowned independent […]

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Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Royal Oak Chronograph Oct 1, 2025

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

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Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back Fratello
Audemars Piguet Sep 29, 2025

Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back

The SIHH, or Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, was a watch trade show founded in 1991 by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Piaget, Gerald Genta, and Daniel Roth. Organized by the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), the show, compared to Baselworld, aimed to create a more exclusive, high-luxury atmosphere dedicated to fine watchmaking and […] Visit Is Watches And Wonders Turning Into Baselworld 2.0? Also, Audemars Piguet Is Back to read the full article.

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Patek Philippe Sep 27, 2025

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

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In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 23, 2025

In-Depth: Girard-Perregaux Debuts All-New Automatic Calibre

Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements.  It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F;. A GP3000 found in the MB&F; HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...

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Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sep 15, 2025

Introducing – The new Credor Goldfeather GBBY969 and GBBY971 with Enamel Dials

While Grand Seiko is now well-established all around the world as the higher-end brand of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Credor remains far more niche and has just begun its global expansion, primarily with the Locomotive collection, based on a vintage watch once designed by Gérald Genta. Credor, another high-end brandwithin the group, employs a more classic approach with watches […]

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Seiko Looks to Sci-Fi for the Astron GPS SJX Watches
Citizen has inched ahead Sep 15, 2025

Seiko Looks to Sci-Fi for the Astron GPS

Advanced digital watches haven’t deterred leading Japanese brands from continuing to earnestly develop high-accuracy quartz watches in analog formats. Chief among them is Seiko, which has just unveiled two new limited editions of its satellite-linked Astron GPS Solar. While the SSJ037 appears to be a simple time-only watch and the SSH185 looks like a straightforward dual-time chronograph, each watch is solar-powered and includes an electronic perpetual calendar. Limited to 1,500 pieces for the SSJ037 and 1,200 pieces for the SSH185, the new collection is sci-fi inspired, featuring colours and textures common to fictional depictions of space stations. Initial thoughts There are a couple different approaches to making high-accuracy quartz watches. The first is pretty obvious, and involves developing ever-more precise quartz oscillators. Seiko has long been a champion of this school of thought, although Citizen has inched ahead in recent years. The other approach is to make a reasonably precise quartz movement that automatically syncs with an external signal, which might be a radio signal broadcast from any of the atomic reference clocks positioned around the world, a bluetooth signal from the user’s phone, or, in the case of the Astron, a satellite signal. Since the brand debuted this technology in 2012, Seiko has refined things making the watches sleeker and the interface more intuitive. As a result, the time-only SSJ037 is an ordinary 42 mm in diameter and 12 mm thick;...

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